"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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a b16 on a 75 shot with a jdm s1 tranny and tires will do mid to low 13.
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d16a%5Fhead/ ACTUALLY THIS is the section where it used to be. FUCK I can't believe it's not here!
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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Peter is in the wrong business, MUSTANGS FTW!!
1000ft/lbs of TQ at IDLE LOL
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Endyns website is shut down.
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^^ linx work just fine for me.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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Having run a SOHC turbo setup for over 2 years i couldnt recommend going any other route. Im not saying that b-series arent good, but there are many points to consider when it comes to sohc turbo..
-No need to buy motor mounts
-TORQUE! Its not uncommon for sohc turbos to dyno similar hp/tq numbers.
-Cost of engines
-Direct bolt in with some wiring depending on model
I ran my turbo setup for 4-5 mos on my d15b2 with over 145k miles and finally retired it once the rings were worn out. I then put in a used d16z6 and drove it daily (100 miles/day for over a year) for nearly 2 years, boosting between 7-12psi daily, and abused the heck out of it. It hurt many feelings on the highway and i beat on it hard in the mtns.. it was a quick and fun car.
They key to sohc turbo is 1) tuning and 2) recognizing the limits. Ive personally known several people putting down 200-240whp with a good tune and have the motors last. Run the hack @ 12psi and your sohc's ringlands will cry.
^^ An idea I pushed early in the thread but was flamed for. So I take it that you are not voting for this:
---VVVVV---
I thought it was doable. Oh well.Originally Posted by BABY J
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Last edited by BABY J; 06-09-2006 at 07:27 PM.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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This is where I call BS. Just b/c you "learn" to "tolerate" and "anticipate" your cars handling does NOT mean it handles great. W/ the nice (yet not overkill) suspension setup he has, I will say a B swap would KILL this car in the handling dept... I will DEF push more w/ the H.... no way around it. My Spec V torque steers like a MUTHA FUCKA (they do stock at 153 WHP, so imagine the same car at 240+ WHP) but over the years I've learned to anticipate it and I call it "normal". I REALLY do not notice it anymore yet I make subconcious adjustments everytime I floor it. I would bet that a road course, slalom, or taking stock measurements w/ cornerweighting will prove to this guy the the B EF will outhandle the H EF all day.Originally Posted by EXPLICITSPEEDPERFORMANCE
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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It's only like 40lbs differance if i remember correctly, with the right differential and tires any torque steer will go away.Originally Posted by BABY J
FYI: Torque never "goes away", neither does torque-steer... it is just moved somewhere else in the powerband, or somewhere else in the drivetrain.Originally Posted by speedminded
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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My torque steer went away...nearly completely after the LSD.Originally Posted by BABY J
Ha! I said 40lbs differance![]()
Impossible!Originally Posted by speedminded
Torque steer (caused by torque + sub-par driveline) does not GO AWAY. You simply beefed up parts that caused the torque to be transferred somewhere else in the driveline (in this case, the drive wheels). You can't ERASE torque... it is simply xferred somewhere else.
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"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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MAYBE in an EG handling changes are less noticeable between the B and H series. In the CRX though w/ a MANUAL RACK vs PS (EG), I say that the handling is the only part where he is prolly stretching it a bit.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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ive never seen an H22 with PS in an EG. i dont think its possible, but ive been wrong before.
I think the handling thing is overexaggerated. I think the H22 is only 60lbs more than a GSR. but, 60lbs is 60lbs.
the motor is only 1 aspect of HANDLING. gearing, suspension, wheels, RPMrange, powerband have alot to do with it. an bottom line is if you run the right shocks, sway bars, and suspension, you can make an H22 handle fine in an EF.
i just do not like the idea of an H in an EF. sorry, just my opinion, if its an EG, well, its much more room to work with, they are obd1, they have mount kits etc.
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As far as the BS about being too front end heavy, this is not true. It weighs about 35 lbs. more than a GSR maybe less. My car weighed in at 2020 lbs with no driver. I have full faith in my car around corners and turns. I have owned a B series crx and I would say that it is the same or better at handling.
C'mon B. The guy is trying to sell HIS product and HIS line of thinking, of course he will say that. Key word is HE has faith in his car around corners. if I drove a dump truck for a living and got used to it I could tell you that I have full faith in it in corners... that doesn't mean it will outhandle any other car. His quote does NOT prove which setup handles better. My vote is the B... but liek Mike said there are more variables that go into it. W/ the torque increase though, you better believe that ride would be less stable in the twisties when you start stabbing the throttle. I was not posting to get a debate up, just to let 1/2Dick know that he has options.![]()
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alot of others have said same thing...same as myself. it felt fine for me and i had stock suspension.Originally Posted by BABY J
i dont know...35lbs.... with every swap u should have suspension upgrades and with that it should eliminate possibilities.
alot of h22 guys dont have problems with going around the corners (not the twisties but regular driving...) i mean my friend with a b16 EF hatch had problems.
my point is...ITS PERFERENCES...my opinion is different..yours is different...my way of thinking is the same as his...u might not like it but the next person might like it...thats why there are OPINIONSOriginally Posted by babyj
nope it sure doesnt but in my mind its good enough HEHEHHE i just need to make a 90 degree turn out of the 1/4 strip and a left on to my driveway into my garageOriginally Posted by babyj
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yep it does notOriginally Posted by babyj
Originally Posted by babyj
b-series will have more torque steer than the stock motor....h will have more than bserie.
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BTW...not debating just pointing some stuff outand i know mike...he knows what he's talking about too LOL...
and ask any of the h22 swap guys..im sure they will tell u its fine.....
Last edited by 93H22ACX; 06-09-2006 at 08:47 PM.
94 Supra= 500rwhp
where are these custom mounts for $449? i havent seen them.
Yes, best bang for the buck H22. however, i still stand against it in an EF, its not easy at all, i almost did one. I did lots of research on it.
$3200, add at least $1000 for labor(swap, wiring)
weld in mounts, shifter cables, alternaotr
shit adds up, i aint doing it for $700 like a standard B series swap. i wont do it for less than $2000 just because i know what it takes to do one, its no simple by any means. if ISP wants to do it for cheaper thats fine, ill send them over there lol
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http://explicitspeedperformance.net/index.htmlOriginally Posted by Mr. Vteckidd
i cant remember who else made them...fudgeing a
hahah nah man u win on the price mike LOL
94 Supra= 500rwhp
i didnt see any mounts on their site. i was checking them out awhile back when i was thinking of doing an H2B. i know they make the alternator relocator
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damn i missed some entertainment to night! lol!
You know better; next time will be a ban.
B18C1 (GSR)B18c1 is all i have to say.....
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You know better; next time will be a ban.
DSPORT MAG // OCT 2004// ISSUE #22
Eddy Feldmeier / Union City, CA / A DNR PERFORMANCE BUILD
345 WHP / 11.2 @ 125.70 on 118 OCTANE / .957 RT / 1.686 60FT
VEH INFO:
--> 95 EG
--> 1980 w/o driver (that's a bit less than a stock DX, so they shedded some lbs)
--> LAUNCH RPM: 7000
--> SHIFT RPM: 9000
--> PEAK BOOST: 17PSI @ 5500RPM
--> FUEL 118 OCTANE
ENGINE SPECS
--> D16Z6
--> DISPLACEMENT: 1590CC
--> BORE/STROKE: 75mmbor X 90mmstrk
--> PEAK HP: 347WHP @ 7800
--> PEAK TQ: 258LBS @ 6200
--> DYNO: DYNO JET
--> PISTONS/CR: JE / 9:0:1
--> RODS/ CRANK:
EAGLE RODS
BAL/MICRO POLISHED CRANK
BLOCK MODS:
--> NuFormz Block Guard (unsleeved block)
--> Bal/BluPrntd
MACHINE WORK:
--> DNR PERF
CAMS:
--> CUSTOM WEB CAM RACING
VALVETRAIN:
--> DNR P&P
--> MILLED .30
--> S2 IMANI
-->
FUEL:
--> 720CC
--> BOSCH PUMP
MANAGEMENT:
--> HONDATA S200 (FTW!)
SNAIL:
--> GREDDY T3/T4
--> TIAL 35MM WASTEGATE
--> GREDDY TYPER BOV
--> SPEARCO 24x9x3 INTERCOOLER
EX:
--> REVHARD EX MANI
MISC:
--> STOCK DX TRANNY, MSD DIGITAL 6, GRND CNTRL 550lb Springs (frnt). S2 Drag Launch (rears), ACT 6PUCK, LIGHTENED STOCK FLYWHEEL,
** I do not call this "magazine racing", b/c there is no use foraging new ground on a $100 motor when there is already a potent blueprint to build from. I kinda did that w/ my Spec V and while I am satisfied (and it's no knock on Sunbelt), there was quite a bit of trial and error which is directly proportional to COST. Good luck 1/2wit and I gotta fresh Z6 when you wanna get started (SHAMELESS PLUG).
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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yeah thats a Z6 with RODS AN PISTONS. still out of his budget unless he does all the work himself.
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i've seen stock CX civic eg's run 13's with nitrous. stripped out from drivers seat back, intake, custom exhaust. 50shot and a good driver.
A stock 8 valve CX with a 50 shot? Running 13s? I'm not sure I can believe that.Originally Posted by SLR
--RIP Leisa. Forever In Our Hearts--
--Val for President 1979-2007--
--RIP Val, You will be missed--
Originally Posted by HalfBaked
do a b16 swap the total was only like 2800 and take the extra cash and do internal or boost thats my opinion but the sohc + spray is fun
^^ not sure on the non-vtec motors. But I DO know that a fresh fully bolted Z6 on a wet 100 shot + Hondata and DRs will, and that will be NOWHERE near busting his budget. 50 on a stock CX (even fully-bolted) doesn't say "13 second capable" in my mind though. I dunno.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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Originally Posted by BABY J
lol im with you i dont see a cx doing 13 sec pass on only 50 noway . or prove me wrong . always open to learning the things![]()
Same here.Originally Posted by smoke_Em
Steph couldn't even pull that off even w/ a tailwind.
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i see it happen with a cx . it is a lite car , then if u gut it 1,975 pounds some where around there and with a good kit it is possiable, but i say do a b16 i,h,e and a 75 shot , i know it will do mid to low 13,s all day with a jdm s1 tranny.
the cx is lite but squeezing the cx motor even with a light chassis isnt going to net 13s
swap out manifolds and in take , and my money is on the cx
i still dont see it even with a built head a cx head at that have u seen those heads taken apart .. no buenoOriginally Posted by sirhatch1030
That's what I was thinking....8 valves = teh suck.Originally Posted by smoke_Em
--RIP Leisa. Forever In Our Hearts--
--Val for President 1979-2007--
--RIP Val, You will be missed--
Originally Posted by HalfBaked
Originally Posted by BTLFED
i would love to see that happen
FUCK B&D COMMUNICATIONS!
b16, 75shot is all it takes to go 13,s
then why did u have to have a gsr block type r head, and spray to run 13.8? seems like it would be faster than b16......Originally Posted by sirhatch1030
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.
IT WAS ALL MOTOR , I DIDENT GET A CHANCE TO FILL MY BOTTLE BEFOR THAT SAT. I WAS RUNNING MID 14,S THEN SWAPED TIRES AND GOT SOME 110 OCTANE AND RAN 13.8Originally Posted by Halfwit
^^ There are many ways to skin a cat. He is tryna get you there at the lowest pricepoint. B16 cheaper than B18.
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