What does it take for an EF to run 13s

[speedminded]

afford something worth while? wtf thats what we are discussing, are u saying a gsr isnt worhtwhile?

i dont slowly put stuff together.

Are you gonna be happy with a stock GS-R? ........Didn't think so. Then what about traction? Gonna need the gearing and the differential otherwise you'll just the spinning ALL the way down the track. Then a upgraded clutch & flywheel. That's all just for a stock GS-R then you would you want all motor (maybe a lil spray) or turbo? You're looking at double the budget with the list of next 5 items needed either way you go.

[bigdare23]

When you get it dialed in, please add "I Got The Idea On This Build From Baby J" sticker on the hood of your car. That's all I ask.

Only if you put a "BigDare23>>>>Baby J" graphic on all your hoods!

[BABY J]

wtf answer my ?s about gsr with bolt ons and spray and a few internals.

^^ You sir are irking me too! You can build 2 IDENTICAL motors w/ IDENTICAL parts and get 2 VERY different motors. THAT is why you RESEARCH and spec your shit out (I suggest building a spec sheet, then RE-doing it, then RE-doing it, then email it to VTECKIDD so he can ignore you and then have to send your block to WEST BUBBLEFUCK Virginia b/c he ignores you and won't respond) LOL. Do not look for ETs when you spec a build, too many variables. Look for expected WHP or even CRANK HP. There is NO SUCH THING AS A 13 SECOND CAR!!! There is a such thing as a 13 SECOND CAPABLE CAR. There are a LOT of variables when it comes to ETs, driver, altitude, tires, etc. The HP/WEIGHT math is easier to figure out than to spec an engine combo for 13.XX.

TAKE YOUR TIME!!! When you rush a project something always goes wrong... NE1 who has built more than bolt-on projects will tell you to BE PATIENT.

[mumbles]

One that has COMMON DAMN SENSE!! I suggest you google an article "CAMDICAPPED" from DSPORT mag. Z6 bottom, Y8 top, 17lbs --> 345WHP @ 17 lbs. UNSLEEVED, and 10PSI daily. I back-ordered this magazine just to get the specs on the build. I can post them if you like.

http://www.dragsport.com/issue/2004/0904_toc.shtml

Please do not post when you do not know what you are talking about.

if you have an issue with what i post come see we can talk about it. and i can't count how many times someone has popped their boosted single cam. are there miracle cases of course there is. And most boosted honda owners don't have common sense. if they did i would have a job lol!

[Halfwit]

Are you gonna be happy with a stock GS-R? ........Didn't think so. Then what about traction? Gonna need the gearing and the differential otherwise you'll just the spinning ALL the way down the track. Then a upgraded clutch & flywheel. That's all just for a stock GS-R then you would you want all motor (maybe a lil spray) or turbo? You're looking at double the budget with the list of next 5 items needed either way you go.

ive posted what i was gonna do to motor in this thread u did not see it.

VTECKIDD PUT THE BUDGET, NOT ME

that is just a standard for what we are going for

[speedminded]

^^ You sir are irking me too! You can build 2 IDENTICAL motors w/ IDENTICAL parts and get 2 VERY different motors. THAT is why you RESEARCH and spec your shit out (I suggest building a spec sheet, then RE-doing it, then RE-doing it, then email it to VTECKIDD so he can ignore you and then have to send your block to WEST BUBBLEFUCK Virginia b/c he ignores you and won't respond) LOL. Do not look for ETs when you spec a build, too many variables. Look for expected WHP or even CRANK HP. There is NO SUCH THING AS A 13 SECOND CAR!!! There is a such thing as a 13 SECOND CAPABLE car. There are a LOT of variables when it comes to ETs, driver, altitude, tires, etc. The HP/WEIGHT math is easier to figure out than to spec an engine combo for 13.XX.

I said all that in 1 sentence, "For one, quit worrying about your 1/4 mile times."

[Halfwit]

^^ You sir are irking me too! You can build 2 IDENTICAL motors w/ IDENTICAL parts and get 2 VERY different motors. THAT is why you RESEARCH and spec your shit out (I suggest building a spec sheet, then RE-doing it, then RE-doing it, then email it to VTECKIDD so he can ignore you and then have to send your block to WEST BUBBLEFUCK Virginia b/c he ignores you and won't respond) LOL. Do not look for ETs when you spec a build, too many variables. Look for expected WHP or even CRANK HP. There is NO SUCH THING AS A 13 SECOND CAR!!! There is a such thing as a 13 SECOND CAPABLE CAR. There are a LOT of variables when it comes to ETs, driver, altitude, tires, etc. The HP/WEIGHT math is easier to figure out than to spec an engine combo for 13.XX.

TAKE YOUR TIME!!! When you rush a project something always goes wrong... NE1 who has buil more than bolt-ons will tell you to BE PATIENT.

im not rushing shit i am getting ideas ready

fuk u, i did not as kfor the exact time i want to know about where it should be, and can it handle nitrous well.

[BABY J]

if you have an issue with what i post come see we can talk about it. and i can't count how many times someone has popped their boosted single cam. are there miracle cases of course there is. And most boosted honda owners don't have common sense. if they did i would have a job lol!

I do not have issues w/ you posting, but you make "blanket" statements about things that are SIMPLY not true... if you were SMART then you would KNOW that Halfwit ALREADY has had a boosted 240, he is already "BOOST smarter" than a lot of people on this board. He KNOWS what to do and what not to do.

"And most boosted honda owners don't have common sense."

I guess you have counted them all huh and done the math? Do you know how many people you just insulted? So which manufacturer's have all the SMART boosted guys since it's not Honda?:jerkit: You're on talking restriction until my dick rots and falls off.

[BABY J]

ive posted what i was gonna do to motor in this thread u did not see it.

VTECKIDD PUT THE BUDGET, NOT ME

that is just a standard for what we are going for

That is the mark of a SMART tuner. ESPECIALLY since he works at a shop. That already tells you that you are in good hands and he is not out to make a buck from your build. +1 for Mike.

[93H22ACX]

mike...here is what you can do to...

EF with GSR and 100shot.

shit peter ran EG with stock GSR, 100shot single fogger wet, jg im, stock open header, slicks and ran CONSISTANT 12.01@114 (couldnt break 11's). This is UNTUNED...just run richer fuel jetting and retard the timing.

or h22 eg, 70 shot, slicks, 12.1@115

[BABY J]

^^ H22 is MUCH harder to swap in an EF chassis than a B series though... so pick your poison.

[93H22ACX]

^^ H22 is MUCH harder to swap in an EF chassis than a B series though... so pick your poison.

bee-series with 100 shot

[mumbles]

I do not have issues w/ you posting, but you make "blanket" statements about things that are SIMPLY not true... if you were SMART then you would KNOW that Halfwit ALREADY has had a boosted 240, he is already "BOOST smarter" than a lot of people on this board. He KNOWS what to do and what not to do.

"And most boosted honda owners don't have common sense."

I guess you have counted them all huh and done the math? Do you know how many people you just insulted? So which manufacturer's have all the SMART boosted guys since it's not Honda?:jerkit: You're on talking restriction until my dick rots and falls off.

look man there is a big difference between an sr20 and a honda motor. for one they are meant for boost and you can turn the boost up in those up to 18lbs on stick everything, which makes you average person happy. you seem to be the only one offened i used to have boost honda myself before you even knew what a honda was. so i think i may have little more esperience at this than you. and i've had a boosted 240. honda motors have to be purpose built for boost too much money for such little power if you ask me. save you money boost a b-series and make real power not i hope it doesn't blow up single cam 345 power.

[Spyder]

If I were going to build one the only motor I would consider is an H22, in factory trim (even stock air box) is capable of running mid to high 13's in that light of a chassis. I have seen it done several times (only once with a factory air box.. most atleast do an intake lol) These cars have made several passes with these ET's AND most important retain factory Honda reliability... If you dont do anything to the internals it doesnt at all comprimise the motor... It all depends on what your end goal is.. judging from the inital post (yes I know Mike made it not you.) all that you are looking for is 13's and reliability, that gives you both.

Baby J:
That is a wise statment that there are only 13 second capable cars , but it takes a driver to make it that way.

Speedminded: He may be perfectly happy with a car that can run 13.99 and last 200k.. he never said either way.

Vteckidd: Are you trying to push him away from an H22 because you dont want to shoe horn it in there or is there something else im missing here?My guess is you know more about the expected goals then we do at this point..

[BTEC]

B-SWAP 1300
NAWS 600
HEADER 600
MOUNTS 400
SHIFTLIKAGE 100
AXLES 300
CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL 500
INTAKE 200
15" BGF's 200
CROME TUNED 300
CONVERSION HARNESS AND DIZZY 250
GSR CAMS 80
SKUNK 2 INTAKE 230
TANK OF 93 OCTANE $15
OCTANE BOOSTER WITH NITROMETHANE 15
ENTRY FEE AND TECH CARD 30
2 BAGS OF ICE TO COOL INTAKE AFTER TIME TRIAL 10
CHEESEBURGERS AND GATORADE IN BETWEEEN ASS WHOOPINS 20
FOOD AFTER RACE AND A COUPLE DRINKS TO CELEBRATE MY VICTORY 50

$5000 WELL SPENT TO RUN MID 12'S BC IM THE PIMPEST DRIVER ULL EVER MEET.
PRICE OF TAKING HOME THE TROPHY FOR THE OVER ALL FASTEST CAR OF THE DAY $ PRICELESS.

[Vteckidd]

this is where i get arrogant, please excuse me (removes mainstream hat, puts on VTECKIDD hat)

1) how is a D series motor NOT a interference motor? please explain, last time i checked they use a timing belt, cam gear around the crankshaft. it controls the valve opening with a timing belt, its an interference motor, all hondas are.

2) If you want to say that using a 100shot on a stock D series is reliable, then thats OPINION, i have seen PLENTY of D series motors pop with spray, not alot pop on turbo. Nitrous build cylinder pressure faster, has more heat, and the CAST OEM pistons dont like it. sorry, i wouldnt recomend it.

3) If it were my call, the best thing to do would be a turbo SOHC, itll make 200+whp, MORE TQ THAN ANY SWAP YOU COULD POSSIBLY DO, and they are cheap if they pop. Scotty has had his for 3 years boosted, non vtec, 10psi.

4) A gsr with bolt ons CAN GO 13s in the right chassis. But, its still a stock 150whp motor. However, the GSR is very easy to mod, turbo or na, an it can handle 300whp, D series cant, B16s/LS cant. not RELIABLY.

5) I have plenty of dynos to back it up, stop by anytime.

6) It costs MONEY, plain and simple, people that want to shop around, buy used parts, slap together a bunch of stuff from ebay etc, be prepared to face the consequences.

7) My resume is longer than most poeple on this board. from my 190whp OEM motor that only few remember i had 2 years ago, to my 240whp lsvtec. i know what it costs, and you cant do it for $3000. you might be able to, but dont say reliable in the same sentence.

8) until i see RESULTS from people an not "im building something that makes XXX", i take everything with a grain of salt. the way it sits right now, i had the highest whp all motor car, and no one has beaten it YET.

9) Turbo D series, if you want fast. YOu mentioned kevins motor, he had a $3000 b16 swap, blew it up, then built a $3000 swhortblock, with tuning, an everything else , hes got $7000 in his car. His car only runs 14s because he HASNT TUNED WITH NITROUS YET, HIS MOTOR WAS BUILT FOR NOS, NOT ALL MOTOR. so dont compare his track times

[Halfwit]

If I were going to build one the only motor I would consider is an H22, in factory trim (even stock air box) is capable of running mid to high 13's in that light of a chassis. I have seen it done several times (only once with a factory air box.. most atleast do an intake lol) These cars have made several passes with these ET's AND most important retain factory Honda reliability... If you dont do anything to the internals it doesnt at all comprimise the motor... It all depends on what your end goal is.. judging from the inital post (yes I know Mike made it not you.) all that you are looking for is 13's and reliability, that gives you both.

Baby J:
That is a wise statment that there are only 13 second capable cars , but it takes a driver to make it that way.

Speedminded: He may be perfectly happy with a car that can run 13.99 and last 200k.. he never said either way.

Vteckidd: Are you trying to push him away from an H22 because you dont want to shoe horn it in there or is there something else im missing here?My guess is you know more about the expected goals then we do at this point..

he didnt say he wouldnt do it, he said it would take a considerably larger amount of money to do so.

[Spyder]

8) until i see RESULTS from people an not "im building something that makes XXX", i take everything with a grain of salt. the way it sits right now, i had the highest whp all motor Honda, and no one has beaten it YET.

Please correct that lol

[Halfwit]

this is where i get arrogant, please excuse me (removes mainstream hat, puts on VTECKIDD hat)

1) how is a D series motor NOT a interference motor? please explain, last time i checked they use a timing belt, cam gear around the crankshaft. it controls the valve opening with a timing belt, its an interference motor, all hondas are.

2) If you want to say that using a 100shot on a stock D series is reliable, then thats OPINION, i have seen PLENTY of D series motors pop with spray, not alot pop on turbo. Nitrous build cylinder pressure faster, has more heat, and the CAST OEM pistons dont like it. sorry, i wouldnt recomend it.

3) If it were my call, the best thing to do would be a turbo SOHC, itll make 200+whp, MORE TQ THAN ANY SWAP YOU COULD POSSIBLY DO, and they are cheap if they pop. Scotty has had his for 3 years boosted, non vtec, 10psi.
4) A gsr with bolt ons CAN GO 13s in the right chassis. But, its still a stock 150whp motor. However, the GSR is very easy to mod, turbo or na, an it can handle 300whp, D series cant, B16s/LS cant. not RELIABLY.

5) I have plenty of dynos to back it up, stop by anytime.

6) It costs MONEY, plain and simple, people that want to shop around, buy used parts, slap together a bunch of stuff from ebay etc, be prepared to face the consequences.

7) My resume is longer than most poeple on this board. from my 190whp OEM motor that only few remember i had 2 years ago, to my 240whp lsvtec. i know what it costs, and you cant do it for $3000. you might be able to, but dont say reliable in the same sentence.

8) until i see RESULTS from people an not "im building something that makes XXX", i take everything with a grain of salt. the way it sits right now, i had the highest whp all motor car, and no one has beaten it YET.

9) Turbo D series, if you want fast. YOu mentioned kevins motor, he had a $3000 b16 swap, blew it up, then built a $3000 swhortblock, with tuning, an everything else , hes got $7000 in his car. His car only runs 14s because he HASNT TUNED WITH NITROUS YET, HIS MOTOR WAS BUILT FOR NOS, NOT ALL MOTOR. so dont compare his track times

see i dont want to swap a new one every 3 months and u make it seem like they will pop BUT their cheap to replace..

i jsut cant see spending that much on a sohc than the potential of a gsr..

u have to remeber guys we put 5k as a standard, that will not be final product. i may do a swpa then come back 3 months later, do a turbo set up, or a na setup .

[BABY J]

look man there is a big difference between an sr20 and a honda motor. for one they are meant for boost and you can turn the boost up in those up to 18lbs on stick everything, which makes you average person happy. you seem to be the only one offened i used to have boost honda myself before you even knew what a honda was. so i think i may have little more esperience at this than you. and i've had a boosted 240. honda motors have to be purpose built for boost too much money for such little power if you ask me. save you money boost a b-series and make real power not i hope it doesn't blow up single cam 345 power.

I am not offended. I'd actually have to give a shit about you in order for you to offend me. For some1 who is SO much "in the game" you have contributed less technical TRUTH to this thread than NE1 else. I am 27 and have been in the game for a LONG time I assure you... you been in longer? good for you! ACT LIKE and stop making stupid comments. Who cares if you have more experience? You played 1/2wit (w/out even knowing him) by assuming he knew nothing about boost and basically called 90% of boosted Honda owners stupid. Then you say it's a waste of money to boost a NON-INTERFERENCE motor? LOL. There are at least 2 300+ hp single cams on this board, and 2 more being built as we speal. One of those was NOT rebuilt before the boost. That's pushing it if you ask me, but do not tell me what's doable and what's not. You are making a "such little power" argument when he can CARELESS about power. He ASKED about making an EF go 13seconds, and a boosted D is an option, if not THE best option seeing as replacements are $100 tops.

[Spyder]

[/B]

he didnt say he wouldnt do it, he said it would take a considerably larger amount of money to do so.

I dont know what the cost of installing one is in comparison to a B series... I honestly dont know the current shop rates of installing various honda motors into various honda chassis... I didnt think they would be that much more... My bad.

[speedminded]

I dont know what the cost of installing one is in comparison to a B series... I honestly dont know the current shop rates of installing various honda motors into various honda chassis... I didnt think they would be that much more... My bad.

Leave the stock D15/D16 up front and put a stock H22 in the rear

[Vteckidd]

if you know anything about an h22 , then you would know why you dont do it in an EF, an you can BARELY do it for $5000.

1) H22s are cable shifters, NOT LINKAGE
2)THERE ARE NO MOTOR MOUNTS AVAILABLE FOR AN H22 INTO A CRX, custom are neccesary, an you must weld the tranny mount on, unless you do a H series with B series adapter plate.
3) Yes, its a shoehorn to get an H22 into an EF, firewall barely clears, its nearly impossible to get the hood to shut.
4) the alternator on the H22 stick out RIGHT BY THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT, a custom bracker an belt must be used, unless you reomve your headlight, which makes it a non street car.
5) you must convert to OBD1, there is nor OBD0 ECU that will run an H22 properly, they have EGR, secondariy butterflies, the wiring doesnt ever come CLOSE to plug an play

the sheer amount of labor involved is EXPENSIVE. an its not worth it when you can do an GSR that WILL bolt in with a $500 mount kit

[mumbles]

I am not offended. I'd actually have to give a shit about you in order for you to offend me. For some1 who is SO much "in the game" you have contributed less technical TRUTH to this thread than NE1 else. I am 27 and have been in the game for a LONG time I assure you... you been in longer? good for you! ACT LIKE and stop making stupid comments. Who cares if you have more experience? You played 1/2wit (w/out even knowing him) by assuming he knew nothing about boost and basically called 90% of boosted Honda owners stupid. Then you say it's a waste of money to boost a NON-INTERFERENCE motor? LOL. There are at least 2 300+ hp single cams on this board, and 2 more being built as we speal. One of those was NOT rebuilt before the boost. That's pushing it if you ask me, but do not tell me what's doable and what's not. You are making a "such little power" argument when he can CARELESS about power. He ASKED about making an EF go 13seconds, and a boosted D is an option, if not THE best option seeing as replacements are $100 tops.

please explain to me how a d-series opperates without a timeing belt. please tell me and everyone else here. maybe you know more than us b/c your 27 and all. like i care how fucking old you are.

[Spyder]

Leave the stock D15/D16 up front and put a stock H22 in the rear

Im guessing that is over the budget to... reguardless of if its 5k or 15k lol.

[Vteckidd]

see i dont want to swap a new one every 3 months and u make it seem like they will pop BUT their cheap to replace..

i jsut cant see spending that much on a sohc than the potential of a gsr..

u have to remeber guys we put 5k as a standard, that will not be final product. i may do a swpa then come back 3 months later, do a turbo set up, or a na setup .

i didnt say they WOULD blow, but its possible.

i dont see how you can say you dont want to have any issues, but in the same sentence you want to do a GSR with a 100shot.

the D series is more relaible than the nitrous motor, sorry.

[Vteckidd]

welcome to modded cars, you want to run 13s, be prepared for shit to break. GOing fast isnt CHEAP. i gave you the most reliable options in my PROFESSIONAL OPINION.

[Spyder]

if you know anything about an h22 , then you would know why you dont do it in an EF, an you can BARELY do it for $5000.

1) H22s are cable shifters, NOT LINKAGE
2)THERE ARE NO MOTOR MOUNTS AVAILABLE FOR AN H22 INTO A CRX, custom are neccesary, an you must weld the tranny mount on, unless you do a H series with B series adapter plate.
3) Yes, its a shoehorn to get an H22 into an EF, firewall barely clears, its nearly impossible to get the hood to shut.
4) the alternator on the H22 stick out RIGHT BY THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT, a custom bracker an belt must be used, unless you reomve your headlight, which makes it a non street car.
5) you must convert to OBD1, there is nor OBD0 ECU that will run an H22 properly, they have EGR, secondariy butterflies, the wiring doesnt ever come CLOSE to plug an play

the sheer amount of labor involved is EXPENSIVE. an its not worth it when you can do an GSR that WILL bolt in with a $500 mount kit

Good information, Most of the H22's I have seen were in 92-95 civic chassis.. don't know the name of them but they seem more common now I know why lol. Im sure it still isn't easy.. but perhaps easier.

Just curious how much, roughly, is it to install a H22 into an EF?

[speedminded]

What's the goal and what's the budget? Period.

[Vteckidd]

if you think for 1second that a 345whp D series was on a STOCK motor, your on the crack.

[speedminded]

Good information, Most of the H22's I have seen were in 92-95 civic chassis.. don't know the name of them but they seem more common now I know why lol. Im sure it still isn't easy.. but perhaps easier.

Just curious how much, roughly, is it to install a H22 into an EF?

You mean EG?

[Vteckidd]

Good information, Most of the H22's I have seen were in 92-95 civic chassis.. don't know the name of them but they seem more common now I know why lol. Im sure it still isn't easy.. but perhaps easier.

Just curious how much, roughly, is it to install a H22 into an EF?

the wiring, chassis fabrication, motor moutns etc

i wouldnt do it for less than $2000

we charge $735 for a B vtec swap

[Spyder]

You mean EG?

No I was asking about the EF in question, but I take that to mean an EG is the 92-95?

[BABY J]

please explain to me how a d-series opperates without a timeing belt. please tell me and everyone else here. maybe you know more than us b/c your 27 and all. like i care how fucking old you are.

It IS an interference motor... but let me load up some cross-sections and I will show you WHY you can snap a timing belt on a D at 3k RPMs and NEVER hurt the head, vs a B at idle and trash it. Gimme a sec.

[Vteckidd]

It IS an interference motor... but let me load up some cross-sections and I will show you WHY you can snap a timing belt on a D at 3k RPMs and NEVER hurt the head, vs a B at idle and trash it. Gimme a sec.

i dont care about what a spec sheet says.

PERSONAL EXPERIENCE:
Keirons GSR, cam bolt backed out, lost a cam gear an keyway at 2500rpms, bent 1 valve.

SOHC D series , jumped timing AT IDLE, bent a valve

A timing belt controls the piston TDC and the valve opening. if you seriously think that they arent interference motors, go put an adjustable cam gear on a SOHC, advance it to 10 degrees, an let me know what happens

[mumbles]

It IS an interference motor... but let me load up some cross-sections and I will show you WHY you can snap a timing belt on a D at 3k RPMs and NEVER hurt the head, vs a B at idle and trash it. Gimme a sec.

that took you a while for someone that is so sure of hisself. i guess google told you, you were wrong. hury go read some more magazines b/c that seems to be the only place that you get your info from.

[1civic]

this is where i get arrogant, please excuse me (removes mainstream hat, puts on VTECKIDD hat)

1) how is a D series motor NOT a interference motor? please explain, last time i checked they use a timing belt, cam gear around the crankshaft. it controls the valve opening with a timing belt, its an interference motor, all hondas are.

2) If you want to say that using a 100shot on a stock D series is reliable, then thats OPINION, i have seen PLENTY of D series motors pop with spray, not alot pop on turbo. Nitrous build cylinder pressure faster, has more heat, and the CAST OEM pistons dont like it. sorry, i wouldnt recomend it.

3) If it were my call, the best thing to do would be a turbo SOHC, itll make 200+whp, MORE TQ THAN ANY SWAP YOU COULD POSSIBLY DO, and they are cheap if they pop. Scotty has had his for 3 years boosted, non vtec, 10psi.

4) A gsr with bolt ons CAN GO 13s in the right chassis. But, its still a stock 150whp motor. However, the GSR is very easy to mod, turbo or na, an it can handle 300whp, D series cant, B16s/LS cant. not RELIABLY.

5) I have plenty of dynos to back it up, stop by anytime.

6) It costs MONEY, plain and simple, people that want to shop around, buy used parts, slap together a bunch of stuff from ebay etc, be prepared to face the consequences.

7) My resume is longer than most poeple on this board. from my 190whp OEM motor that only few remember i had 2 years ago, to my 240whp lsvtec. i know what it costs, and you cant do it for $3000. you might be able to, but dont say reliable in the same sentence.

8) until i see RESULTS from people an not "im building something that makes XXX", i take everything with a grain of salt. the way it sits right now, i had the highest whp all motor car, and no one has beaten it YET.

9) Turbo D series, if you want fast. YOu mentioned kevins motor, he had a $3000 b16 swap, blew it up, then built a $3000 swhortblock, with tuning, an everything else , hes got $7000 in his car. His car only runs 14s because he HASNT TUNED WITH NITROUS YET, HIS MOTOR WAS BUILT FOR NOS, NOT ALL MOTOR. so dont compare his track times

Mike you make good Points....But Not everyone likes to be in the Spotlight...lol... Something as simple as a B18b N/A could run 13's....
I think we all have been in this game for a While...I know I have.. No point in making All kinds of Claims...
Its not easy to dump 5k in anything, Not unless you have other resorces..
If you like to be known then so be it...But there are other people that will out run you and may not have Half the money in there car... I'm still new to the Forum yes, So People don't know What I have or have had... I could give a Shit... I have Fun When I want and try to pick fair races... Damn Some dyno numbers Thats how I see it... To much goes into the other things, Not just the Motor..
You can have 400 whp and get Drug by a 200whp car in the 1/4 mile.. Make a Car useful and Make it make Sense.....No Sense in braging about what HP you have..
Its always somekind of Pissing contest on here...WHY ?.. We all like cars, So wtf... There is always a Smart ass that claims to know shit yes...We know what we know and unless you have been around the person you have no clue for sure... Its life on the internet.... ... I'm done with my Rant and I wasn't pointing any fingers.. ...Later...

[BABY J]

What was ENDYNs site? "Old 1", "the old one" .com... some shit. URL has changed from what I have bookmarked. I used it for reference when I sprayed my SOHC w/ a full 100 shot... SUCESSFULLY. I'd trust their site b4 "some guy" on a forum. LOL. And I STAND CORRECTED on the interference motor, it IS an interference motor... happy? Doesn't change the fact that you were WRONG technically and have still failed to contribute TECHNICALLY. It's taking me a while b/c I am at work... if the crossections are still there I will load them up... I am pretty sure that NE1 who can read will understand what it's saying and understand it. The only thing that I am SURE of is:

i thought you guys said reliable. sohc turbo really isn't that reliable.

^^ THAT statement is not reliable

you tell me one boosted honda owner that can't resist turning the boost up on there little car and next thing you BOOM!!!

Neither is that 1.

... and most boosted honda owners don't have common sense. if they did i would have a job lol!

That 1 either...


As far as calling me out about a D not bein an interference motor, THANK YOU VTECKKID for the education and the initial knock upside my head... YOU though, are just co-signing and riding his coattails... he should ne honored. I have NO problem w/ being educated on the forums... but YOU (mumbles), well...

[Vteckidd]

Mike you make good Points....But Not everyone likes to be in the Spotlight...lol... Something as simple as a B18b N/A could run 13's....
I think we all have been in this game for a While...I know I have.. No point in making All kinds of Claims...
Its not easy to dump 5k in anything, Not unless you have other resorces..
If you like to be known then so be it...But there are other people that will out run you and may not have Half the money in there car... I'm still new to the Forum yes, So People don't know What I have or have had... I could give a Shit... I have Fun When I want and try to pick fair races... Damn Some dyno numbers Thats how I see it... To much goes into the other things, Not just the Motor..
You can have 400 whp and get Drug by a 200whp car in the 1/4 mile.. Make a Car useful and Make it make Sense.....No Sense in braging about what HP you have..
Its always somekind of Pissing contest on here...WHY ?.. We all like cars, So wtf... There is always a Smart ass that claims to know shit yes...We know what we know and unless you have been around the person you have no clue for sure... Its life on the internet.... ... I'm done with my Rant and I wasn't pointing any fingers.. ...Later...

once again you guys are ALL TALK. show me an NA EF with a B!8B LS that is running 13s, please post a timeslip.

Im not bragging, im stating FACTS. I KNOW what it takes to make an all motor car make power, i know what it takes to make a d sereis Turbo , i know what it takes to make a turbo B series, i have unlimited dyno sheets of all different setups an whp ranges.

This is not the first time i have been questioned, but in the end im always the one with PROOF, no one else has any.

if you can anme me an ALL MOTOR CAR THAT MAKES MORE POWER THAN MY OLD MOTOR, BRING IT HERE, B SERIES/H SERIES, I DONT GIVE A FUCK, I WILL PAY $100 TO SOMEONE THAT MAKES MORE THAN I DID.

the only cars that could have beat my old crx was a turbo car or V8, no NA honda was worth my time, period, maybe AccordM3, thats it.

[BABY J]

once again you guys are ALL TALK. show me an NA EF with a B!8B LS that is running 13s, please post a timeslip.

Im not bragging, im stating FACTS. I KNOW what it takes to make an all motor car make power, i know what it takes to make a d sereis Turbo , i know what it takes to make a turbo B series, i have unlimited dyno sheets of all different setups an whp ranges.

This is not the first time i have been questioned, but in the end im always the one with PROOF, no one else has any.

if you can anme me an ALL MOTOR CAR THAT MAKES MORE POWER THAN MY OLD MOTOR, BRING IT HERE, B SERIES/H SERIES, I DONT GIVE A FUCK, I WILL PAY $100 TO SOMEONE THAT MAKES MORE THAN I DID.

the only cars that could have beat my old crx was a turbo car or V8, no NA honda was worth my time, period, maybe AccordM3, thats it.

Off topic, but we feel ya. So SHUT UP!!! LOL