"the tuner could just increase the duty cycle of the injectors if the pump is sufficient." yea this is a good and cheaper route but you have to have some type of ECU upgrade to allow that type of program ex. hondata, the nozzle should never be so close to the TB, i mean i never tested it on how it works but its kinda common sense to have it maybe a foot from the TB so it can work its way in as if its normal air coming in...255lph Fuel pump, depending on size of shot u might have to buy bigger injectors to run more safer with a lower duty cycle %, 75shot dry, a switch to change ecu tuning settings from N/A to nitrous, get tuned with nitrous so that timing is retarded at the correct time when needed and know exactly what AFR your at......or even cheaper is the nitrous pressure regulator....very old but its pretty much still a dry shot some info on that--------> Inside the NOS nitrous regulator is a brass plunger. The plunger has an O-ring seal on the end where it goes into the regulator cap, an O-ring seal on the small diameter of the shaft which goes in to the regulator body, and a nylon tip in the small end which goes into the regulator body. When the nitrous solenoid is opened, nitrous flows, and pressure from the nitrous bottle bleeds through the bottom hole in the regulator housing. One the housing is pressurized, the pressure then bleeds in two directions. The first direction is towards the FPR. The second direction is through the hole drilled into the side of the brass plunger. After nitrous pressure enters the hole in the plunger, it then travels down the center of plunger towards the cap. When nitrous pressure enters the cap, it presses on the plunger's large diameter, and the plunger then acts as a piston. The plunger presses itself into the regulator housing, compressing the spring. The plunger will only compress the spring until nylon tip in the plunger bottoms out on the inverted flare machined into the nitrous regulator housing. Once the nylon tip hits the inverted flare, nitrous flow into the regulator is stopped. Since nitrous flow has stopped, the nitrous solenoid has ceased supplying pressure, and the pressure which was previously in the regulator housing begins to bleed off through T bypass installed near the FPR. Once enough nitrous pressure has bled off through the bypass, the spring presses the plunger back into the cap, and the seal created at the nylon tip is gone. Nitrous pressure flows back into the regulator, and the system repeats itself until the nitrous solenoid closes.