Performer X is what most people like but honestly I made 237whp with an AEBS so I don't thin it's worth switching unless you are making serious power
Performer X is what most people like but honestly I made 237whp with an AEBS so I don't thin it's worth switching unless you are making serious power
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he's right you can pick up a aebs for way cheaper and have it ported and port matched and pick up a nice throttle body and they work great.
but as far as off the shelf manifolds the performer x makes the most power for the money just make sure you pick up a 70mm or bigger throttlebody.
unless you have plenty of cash then you can pick up a endyne sheet metal manifold or a air carbon one.
Okay thanks for the info Mike and all-mota. The crazy thing is I ordered an AEBS intake originally, but I was rushed with time installing my b16 (the intake took it slow sweet time arriving). So I bought my friends used Skunk2 just to finish my swap (b16) and get my car running. Then sold the AEBS to the Scotsman once it came in.
nice setup!!
All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing."
Two things a man should maintain to the highest degree
credibility and reputation
Oh Lawd!, this is trash.... erey one knows you needs an h sissy boy!!!
but congrats, the build looks good!!
Originally Posted by TheDrunkScotsman
Damn Dare. Steppin your game up, I see. I love the build!![]()
Trend settin'
Naw, but believe me I'm on his hit list from our trip to Columbus after I had my swap for the first time in the EJ so now the playing field is leveled and there can only be 1, so we'll see who'll move ahead victoriousyou know I welcome friendly competition Darryl
but I like to stay in the Shadows as well
I had to quote you again cause Sol's are ghey lol esp yours![]()
Paintless Dent Removal TechnicianCondemnant quod non intellegunt
I feel some friendly competition brewing, I want a piece db8soslo!!! Bwahahahaha
Work in progressneed slicks!
I was going through my cell phone pics and found these
Last pic with the b16
B20vtec just waiting
Test fitting my old Greddy Header for a b16
Car in the air
Motor on the ground
bye bye 1.6L
Prepping the b20V for install
These are pics from the head removal when I bent all of my valves LOL
Then a pic from getting tuned by Scotty at Mainstream
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Slight update:
I haven't driven the car lately because of a "miss"/"backfire" I was having while cruising at highway speeds, and could really find a solution. I checked the plugs, and they appear normal and consistent. So I decided to start throwing money at a wall LOL.
I installed a JDM 4-1 header (with the 2.5in collector), but it hung lower than my hytech replica (plus I dented after total of 30 miles). So that got removed and the tri-y got installed again. I installed a new fuel pressure gauge in placed of the crappy b&m one. I upgraded to DSM 440 injectors, and I also got one of the local tuners to burn me a new basemap. Last, but not least I installed a Walbro 255lph hp fuel pump. The car ran great for a total of 60 secs before it popped a #14 fuel (alternator solenoid fuse I believe), and it would continue to pop that fuse each time we replaced it. The problem is the ecu and fuel pump is on that circuit, so every time it pops the car dies.
The sad thing about it is, my friend I were very careful with when installed the pump so I don't really know where the problem lies. This weekend we are going to drop the tank and check out the wiring again and hopefully we fine something that can be fixed.
The only bright side is the "miss" seems like it may have went away. *crosses fingers*
This is funny
I removed the pump and the whole harness and there was not a shorted wire anywhere. We installed the OEM pump and problem stopped. *shakes head*
How long do you think the oem pump will last with 440cc injectors?!? I kinda don't want to drop the tank again LOL.
Its not an issue of how long it will last its an issue of running out of fuel when tuning.
Man this makes me wanna sell my Ls block and get a B20, Hmmmmmmmmmmm!
Work in progressneed slicks!
Another update:
Every since I swapped to synthetic oil, oil leaks begun to pop up. The vtec solenoid started leaking, and oil leaking starting around the head (WTF). So I had fun pulling the head this weekend. I didn't take any pics, but the head gasket had small "bubbles" in it (any suggestions to why?!?). Also, the cylinder wall edges of the head gasket seemed to get burned. So I ordered a Golden Eagle head gasket, and dropped my head off at a local respectable machine shop to get resurfaced and a "performance" valve job. The goal is to have car up and running this weekend. Then next week, I'm getting tuned. So hopefully everything goes as planned.
Question?!?
Should I use copper spray when I install the new headgasket?
www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
Daily D: 2007 Dodge 2500 MEGA CAB, Cummins Turbo Diesel
Thanks Disco Monkey, and thanks for your input Spoolin.
Today day was fun. I put the head back, installed a new oil pan gasket, and an adjustable test pipe to finally hook up my exhaust. Tomorrow, I got to throw on my timing belt on, install my new breather setup, then check timing. Hopefully I'll be back on the road then.
Here's a pic of my valve cover after I stripped it and got two bungs welded on.
It's painted glossy black now. As for the breather setup, the fitting/lines are 10AN. I am running two lines from the valve cover to a small vented catch can mounted near the coolant reservoir. I'll post pics once the car is up and running.
QUESTION?!?
When venting the valve cover, should I keep the line that goes from the intake the valve cover? I noticed alot of turbo guys deleted (or vent) it. I also notice that Endyne kept that line when venting the valve cover on their b20vtec write. Suggestions?!?
what kinda compression are those rs machine pistons?
buddy is building a crvtec i told him rs machine pistons are where its at if you want some higher compression 84.5
and do you know what the part number is?
I have two bungs on the front of my valve cover also, so I cut that nipple off the back of the valve cover and plugged it up.
They bumper your compression around 11.5:1 with a b16 head. With a gsr, it's slightly more, but I can't recall the c/r exactly since I wasn't concern with that head.
To tell you the truth, my piston aren't "actually" RS Machine pistons (I just say that because it's easier). They are actually Nippon pistons, and damn near identical (atleast appearance wise) to RS Machine pistons I went with these pistons because I felt they were more cost efficient. If I'm paying $300+ for pistons, I want them to be forged and not cast. So those pistons were what I was looking for (a cast pistons that would bump my c/r) and in my price range.
With that being said, I don't know the part number. Your best bet is looking on ebay for those pistons. Another alternative is YCP b20 itr style pistons.
very nice build homie.. good numbers, i have no idea how i missed this thread all this time..
Thanks homieProps to your "new" motor also. Saw your dyno on H-T
After battling the snow for a few days, I was finally able to get my car running. I kept trying to turn the car over manually, but it kept getting stuck at a certain point. Found out that my distributor was of 180 degrees. Took it off, installed it correctly, and it started with no problem. I'm going to let the snow melt for a few more days then I'm checking for leaks. After that it's time to drive it home from my friend's house. It's going to sit until next week (since it's going to snow again this weekend), then it's off to get tuned.
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Here's a picture from today. I'm going to have to clean up my bay alot. LOL
I might add, I just picked up another b20 short block today for my EF hatch. So I'm going to start another build thread after I make sure all the bugs are worked out of this motor. I have an idea for the motor already, and it's not going to be vtec. Crower here I come![]()
nice build man, if i dont sell my integra i will be going ls/vtec also, Glood luck with everything
__________________
1993 Honda Civic - stolen
2001 Honda Accord - sold
1995 Acura Integra - sold
2003 Audi A4 - current
Tonight, the car made the 25mile trip from my friend's house back home without any problems. Since it was late, I didn't check for leaks. Hopefully I wont find any puddles in the morning. The car is going to sit for a few days, before I get tuned. I'll keep you posted with the new numbers.
Nice build man! Keep us updated. Glad to hear it didn't have any hiccups on your trip.
So it appears that I have the worse luck ever.
My car is smoking white like hell, my exhaust tip looks like a swimming pool, and my radiator was low on coolant. So that points to one thing.... my head gasket, I just replaced 25miles ago. *sigh* (unless I'm so unlucky that my sleeves are cracked)
-I got my head machined
-I used a golden eagle head gasket
-I'm using arp head studs (for LSvtecs)
-I used arp lube and torqued everything to their specs
-I followed the honda manual step by step
WTF is all I can say. I need a drink (and some more money) LOL
Sorry to hear that bro. I hope the sleeves are good - I would have def honed them instead of an overbore since it's a b20. Hope it's a just a head-gasket away from being on the streets again. GL
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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drain the oil. If all that comes out is coolant for a second, you probably have a cracked sleeve. At least that's what happened to my buddy's car. But I'm in the process of a b20 vtec also. But if you want a full crower Ls head my buddy will probably be more than happy to trade with you, with a skunk2 IM. LMK, and good luck.
You never bore a b20 block. Honda service manual calls for throwing block away if overbore is needed
prob cracked a sleeve or block is warped
did you retorque headstuds?
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