ok well i dont know if you notice, but im not 100 percent done with it. when i get everything done i will post some pics.
ok well i dont know if you notice, but im not 100 percent done with it. when i get everything done i will post some pics.
cool ive been following your build and rootin for ya
well im really close to being done. the only thing i need to do is by a new oil pan or used and tap it the right way. but other than that i just need a tune and im done. i did install my turbo timer today. its one of the pen style apexi ones. anyways if i have time tomorrow i will post pics. of the whole car as it sits.
well here lately my car hasnt been running right. idk if it is because im running a stock ecu and no tune, but when i drive my car for awhile it wants to idle at like 1500. then it acts like it has a 20lbs flywheel on it. it revs down real slow. it also backfires like a srt-4. could someone tell me why this is
Tune, tune, tune, tune, tune.
The longer you drive it without a tune the more likely it will blow up or cause random problems.
at the very least go online and buy a chipped ecu with a base map.....
brandon called me and i said i can send you a basemap and/or a chipped comp. did you get one yet?
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Should be finishing after I get my tax money. If I can stop having random bull shit problems. Lol
so here are some pics. of how the car sits now !
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What iat are you running since you have the Y8 manifold? Didn't see one on the piping or anything.
I have mine straight in the intake because my fpr is blocking the stock location.
TUNE TUNE TUNE TUNE. Its the most important aspect of turbocharging, so why cheap out there.... Of course your car isnt going to run right, why would it? Most people who run ebay kits sucessfuly have a good tune.
Just disconnect a coupler on your charge pipe somewhere until your can get a tune. Your still have the flashy intercooler up front, you'll just have a big vaccum leak. The car is only gonna get worst longer you run it like this bro......
Your diffinitly on the right track with this budget build, but without a tune sooner or later its not going be so budget.
I can't wait to see some tuned dyno pulls bro!!!!!!
Do you have the injectors installed right now?
Your quality will only be as good as the weakest link in the system......
Last edited by hkwe36; 01-28-2010 at 02:16 AM.
STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS
If it rolls, runs and drives. It had function. May not be YOUR kind of function but its functional.
You can try your best to do what you think is good for your car but you never know what's going to happen. You should have never put anything on until it was ready to be finished. I hope that everything goes well for you but seeing as how you're treating it now, I am worried for your future. I will repeat everything everyone else has said...
TUNE TUNE TUNE TUNE TUNE. It is rediculous to EVER and I mean EVER run a car that is untuned, unless you are on your way to the dyno or currently in the process of street tuning. I've had a turbo D series, I've played around and I have spent money. And I can tell you that the single most important thing you can ever do to your car is to make sure it is TUNED.
my 2 cents.
K-What?!?!
try and find someone on honda tech that will email you a tune with the same setup you have...... 10psi.... is pretty general. and ebay turbos and d series setups are very common...... especially with factory internals.... your biggest prob is gonna be having the same injectors that the tune supports..... your going to try to clone his engine and use his tune......
i think this should work for you
this is the only way i see you saving a few buck rather than spending 400 on a tune
your still going to be at least 80-100 for a chipped zif socketed ecu..... and at least 30-50 bucks for someone to burn a chip for you locally....
this way your not paying for dyno time and not paying the tuner for his time other than burning some software for you....
id say max its 200 bux,,,,,, but........ its i would say and 80 percent chance youll have no prob and 20 percent chance you pop your shit.....
where as 400 bux ....... you got a 90 percent chance your not gonna pop your shit lol
many many people use chips and basic tunes especially in the after market gm crowd......
i dono if i would drive around wit the coupler off, turbo deff could be overworked and the life reduced by a good bit even with casual driving. but a chipped ecu + injectors are needed. Do u have a wideband?
since you have such a simple setup id get my chiped ecu from here. http://www.phearable.net/shoppingcar...s-c-23_24.html
only cost like 150 & plug and go.. just tell them by typin in your setup, boost, inj etc.
i had it on my old stock turbo ls, and ran like a charm with no problems.
ATL DAsquad Member #9
dont disconnect the piping plz , thats a bad idea
Disconnect the charge pipe and throw a filter on the end. As soon as you have the money for the tune all u have to do is reconnect the pipe and install the injectors and tune away.
All your doing now is causing more problems then you have and you already said your staying in vaccum so why not add some security.......
Last edited by hkwe36; 01-29-2010 at 10:51 AM.
STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS
If it rolls, runs and drives. It had function. May not be YOUR kind of function but its functional.
STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS/STANCEWORKS
If it rolls, runs and drives. It had function. May not be YOUR kind of function but its functional.
you do realize, turbos have a red line. they spin at a given range and that is where they are designed to run. if you break the stream between the turbo and intake, then the turbo's waste gate has no view of the specific pressure it needs to vent, and thus will not ever bypass exhaust gasses, letting the turbo spool to its doom. sometimes it doesn't grasp the imagination on how wickedly fast these spin. remember, this is a turbine. think of a jet engine essentially. anywhere from zero rpm to 200 thousand rpms is whats seen in a turbos lifespan. what would happen if the turbo where to start resonating and somehow the compressor wheel made contact with the compressor housing. your fucked.
the best solution is leave all the pipes connected, but allow the waste gate to somehow vent 100% continuously. this will allow the turbo to not spool, and also allow you to drive the car normally.
just watch out for very long hills that you happen to come across, your turbo might start to spool a tiny bit, but then at 1 psi i doubt anything will break.
take the spring out you wastegate......
thats what scotty told me he does when he gets emmisions.
that along with factory injectors and ecu