Build Thread

[x_doug_x]

guys, try to keep this one clean please? thanks. much appreciated.


i bought a used LS crank+rods+pistons off craigsilst for 150 bucks. brought the ls rods and usdm type r pistons to machine shop to have the machine shop flycut the rods to fit inside the usdm type r pistons. The factory oil squirters in the gsr block just needed bent down a hair so they would be between the pistons and counter weights.

arp rod bolts, no the ls assembly was not balanced.


here you can see i installed arp head studs, i also installed arp rod bolts.




i had bought a edelbrock jg intake manifold, that was before i realised that would be overkill for this build so i put it up on craigslist and traded it for a skunk2 pro.


i'd put the motor together but then fryed a clutch pulled the tranny and put these on.





decided to install rear disc brakes




installed new door speakers and deck speakers, only have pictures of the front 6.5 inch speakers with modified speaker adapters.



then i decided i wanted some spray. so that was next i'd already had the selenoids+lines here for a few months i picked up for 50 bucks, now all i needed was a bottle. so i picked one up from a buddy for 50 bucks.
you can also see the rear strt tower bar.






now heres the finished car it also has H&R race lowering springs.

[joshk5145]

I read this when it was in the for sale section lol. Good stuff man but I think you might have to move this to car pics or maybe all motor section. You got it back together yet? I think last i saw you had posted about it detonating on spray.

[Bacon]

All motor thread would have been the place but whatever....

....bullshit aside, my question is why not just build it right the first time and then boost it or even spray then?

Disclaimer: I will keep my thoughts to myself and off this thread and you should do the same.

[CaTcH22]

Too long to read.... A: Whats wrong with your car... B: What car are we talking about?!
Narrow it down....

[x_doug_x]

All motor thread would have been the place but whatever....

....bullshit aside, my question is why not just build it right the first time and then boost it or even spray then?

Disclaimer: I will keep my thoughts to myself and off this thread and you should do the same.

build it rite the first time? that's a matter of opinion. people will build shit different ways. the combo i have will work good together when i get it back together, you don't have to have forged pistons to spray nitrous, and you don't need forged rods. i'm not trying to build a 500hp burnout machine. this cars just a quick fun dd.

those usdm coated cast pistons will handle the amount of nitrous i'm going to spray fine, it's going to be a fresh motor when i'm done this time. not that i need to justify myself "again" since people can't seem to comprehend the concept, but the motor still had 190lbs of compression on the cylinder with blowby, that's still a lot of compression. ever heard if it ain't broke don't fix it? well the car ran good anyways and i prob. wouldn't have pulled it back apart if it didn't blow there was just no point. I bet the majority of the boosted cars you see do not have aftermarket valve trains, do you see anything wrong with my pistons? no. they look fine. even after spraying the nitrous.


go do a compression test on your ford focus, i bet my low cylinder was higher than your highest cylinder.



let's put it this way, theres a guy that brings a 300=500hp hatch with type r tranny and slicks just about every tuesday. his motor has forged internals, block guard, type r tranny and i dunno what else. i'm not sure of his fastest time, but he runs anywhere between a 7.9 to a 10 or 11 in the 1/8 because he can't get traction. he's also got a skunk2 pro 2 valvetrain and msd ignition.

my car on slicks i want to be in the low 8s in the 1/8 possibly high 7s. consistantly and i believe it's possible with this setup. will it? i have no idea but it should.


if this isn't clear enough for you or if you don't agree with it, just stop posting in my thread, i'm tired of arguing with you because you don't agree with what i am doing. people boost stock gsr's all the time with 10psi. the ls rotating assembly is actually stronger than the gsr rotating assembly. therefor it should hold more power and i'm not trying to make a lot of power, just enough to have a quick fun daily driver. my cars going to have ac on it when i get it back together, eventually.

just because most of you educate yourselves from reading what everyone else does, doesn't mean that's the only way to do it. this is a budget build that will work really good together when i get it all sorted out.




"edit" no it's not back together yet, the heads in alabama. i might have some port work done to it before i put it back on.

[x_doug_x]

compare this crank/rods to a standard gsr crank/rods if you can find one
i bet this bottom end is good for 300-350 hp and i only plan on making about 275 if that.

[x_doug_x]

heads having a kick ass valve job/port+polish done.

[xero_xero]

i remember seeing your stuff befor. it was a hatch with a gsr. you needed help with wiring everything up... you in chatanooga .... good luck with your build.

[x_doug_x]

i've never owned a hatch with a gsr. i've only personally owned coupes myself, well sort of. my brother had a hatch with a LS that he never could get straightened out and never wanted to work on. so i bought it from him , fixed it and sold it back to him 2 or 3 times.