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Thread: What does it take for an EF to run 13s

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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    Default What does it take for an EF to run 13s

    Im having a conversation via PM with Halfwit. I just though id get everyone else opinion.

    Assume you have a 90 CRX SI, curb weight is about 2200lbs. Its stock, nothing done to it, you have a $5000 budget, what would it take to make it run mid 13s with whatever combo you want, and it must be RELIABLE.

    All Motor sets must be from HMOTORSONLINE.COM with their pricing. So dont say you can buy a GSR swap for $1500.

    Here were my Top 3 reccomendations since i have to factor in labor as well.

    1) B16 Swap from Hmotorsonline.com $1499
    Avid racing motor mount kit $230
    shift linkage $75
    labor $735
    axles $100
    $2800ish

    2) GSR swap from Hmotorsonline.com $3100
    Hasport Hydro mount kit $390
    OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness $100
    Labor $735
    Shift Linkage $75
    $4400ish

    3) D15B VTEC engine 130hp $450
    CRX SI tranny $150
    Clutch Stage2 $300
    MSPi Turbo Kit $3500 installed
    OBD1 ECU an conversion harness $280
    $4900ish
    his best bet is the GSR swap, its the best platform to build on. the FASTEST would be the D15 turbo, however, its a SOHC, and its a stock motor, so ..... but the good thing is if you blow it up, you can find another SOHC for CHEAP ($100 or so). you blow a GSR or B16 up its ALOT MORE EXPENSIVE.

    The B16 is the easiest an cost effective, however it wont run 13s, an they dont like boost at all. they have weak ringlands and pop consistently.

    I think the best bet is the GSR swap, with a simple wet kit, however, he would have to get it tuned which is more $$.

    If you have any other input please share
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Vteckidd
    Im having a conversation via PM with Halfwit. I just though id get everyone else opinion.

    Assume you have a 90 CRX SI, curb weight is about 2200lbs. Its stock, nothing done to it, you have a $5000 budget, what would it take to make it run mid 13s with whatever combo you want, and it must be RELIABLE.

    All Motor sets must be from HMOTORSONLINE.COM with their pricing. So dont say you can buy a GSR swap for $1500.
    There's still ppl out there that can get it for that low.... fags...


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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    reason i say that is because im a SHOP. i cant sell someone a 3rd party motor that isnt backed by a warranty or have papers. I have to be able to back the product i supply.
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    110!!!! Nopaintsls's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Vteckidd
    reason i say that is because im a SHOP. i cant sell someone a 3rd party motor that isnt backed by a warranty or have papers. I have to be able to back the product i supply.
    Your right, I was just sayin...


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    DC5-R
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    why not just sohc vtec boost? thats under 5k. But if it wasn't for the third party thing, I say you could def break easy 13s with a 5k budget, and I can get a b18c1 longblock for around 1500. But since it has to have papers and such, I say single cam turbo.

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    i am jill's nipple. fight club's Avatar
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    if i wasnt using hmmotorsports and could use forums

    k20a3 full swap- 1000
    crower stage 2 n/a cams- 380
    crower valves n springs- 380
    toda itb setup- 1000
    full race header, straight exhaust- 800
    engine mounts- 250
    stripped interior- free.99
    lightweight race seat- 200
    rotas (something with low rotational mass)- 300
    tires- 200
    used kpro- 300
    75 shot- 150
    im around 5k, dont know what it would run tho? it would rev to 8k tho
    When I was a child, I used to talk as a child, think as a child, reason as a child; when I became a man, I put aside childish things.

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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cherry kool aid
    if i wasnt using hmmotorsports and could use forums

    k20a3 full swap- 1000
    crower stage 2 n/a cams- 380
    crower valves n springs- 380
    toda itb setup- 1000
    full race header, straight exhaust- 800
    engine mounts- 250
    stripped interior- free.99
    lightweight race seat- 200
    rotas (something with low rotational mass)- 300
    tires- 200
    used kpro- 300
    75 shot- 150
    im around 5k, dont know what it would run tho? it would rev to 8k tho

    WOW, your WAY OFF. try:

    k20a3 full swap- 1500
    crower stage 2 n/a cams- 380
    crower valves n springs- 380
    toda itb setup- 2000
    full race header, straight exhaust- 800
    engine mounts- 550
    stripped interior- free.99
    lightweight race seat- 200
    rotas (something with low rotational mass)- 300
    tires- 200
    used kpro- 900
    75 shot- 350


    i was doing a K series in my CRX, i priced it all out, for a TYPE-S its still $8000 WITH ME DOING THE LABOR. SHow me where you can buy Toda ITBs for $1000, KPRO for $300, nad mounts for $250 an ill buy them today, cause ill make MAD PROFIT on them.

    a K20A3 with what you have listed, MAY make 180whp, and the Kblock only rev to 6500, you can push it to 8000, but they spit rods out the block at that high of an RPM. If you want to rev to 8000, do a b16, they can handle 9500 as long as you have the valvetrain

    K series is OUT OF THE QUESTION, you cannot do it for $5000, no way. an your missing ALOT of stuff to make the K work in an EF. my estimate is more accurate, then add $1000 for misc stuff like FPR, fuel lines, GE fuel rail, and more. an its a VERY complicated swap which requires an halfcore radiator, cahssis welding, its not a bolt in swap by any means.

    Krucial, look at option 3 i posted, it was SOHC VTEC boost Even a GSR longblock for $1500 doesnt give him a Trans, (cable $300, hydro $600-700), mounts, axles, ecu, shift linkage, etc.
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    i am jill's nipple. fight club's Avatar
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    well, my mistake then LOL i was just goin by prices i saw on k20a.org. ill check for ya and see if they r still that cheap lol.
    When I was a child, I used to talk as a child, think as a child, reason as a child; when I became a man, I put aside childish things.

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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    im on K20A.org all the time. The CHEAPEST i found a used KPRO WITH ecu was $1050 shipped. if he has an ECU already, the cheapest i found was $850.

    My hasport mounts were $550 with a hookup. Toda ITBS are BIG money , especially for Ks, TWMs are cheaper, skunk2 has a set for $1500
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    i am jill's nipple. fight club's Avatar
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    k , im not tryin to argue lol. you do this for a living, i just fuck around. yea i was again not looking at prices, just what i could remember/think i remembered. i saw some twm's going for 1200. lol
    When I was a child, I used to talk as a child, think as a child, reason as a child; when I became a man, I put aside childish things.

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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cherry kool aid
    k , im not tryin to argue lol. you do this for a living, i just fuck around. yea i was again not looking at prices, just what i could remember/think i remembered. i saw some twm's going for 1200. lol
    You can get just about anything at whatever price you're willing to pay if you have the time to look and watch ALL the forums and websites...i picked up a brand new ITR longblock for $2,600, would need $1,500+ in parts and a B-series transmission, then you'd have an EF in 13's...low 13's on slicks...but that's not the point. A shop has to be able to back there work and parts up to be successful and profitable.

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    He would need my motor that you're building now. That should get him into the thirteens pretty deep with slicks. But if I were doing the 5k budget without having anything but a stock EF to start with. SOHC turbo would be the way I'd go. Sooooo much torque even with low daily driven boost. If he could find a good D16 vtec(or non v for that matter) and supply it for yall to build it could save a few bucks and although you take your chances on the reliability factor maybe freshen it up a bit with the money saved. For instance, high mileage D16 that still has good compression, runs good, no knocking. New bearings, ARP rod bolts, new pistons, rings, slight bore and crosshatch and deck. Then you have a good as new motor to throw a little boost at.

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    Although I do agree on some levels as far as getting a GSR and throwing it in, but that eats up pretty much all the budget and will 150-155whp get 2200lbs into the 13's? I am sure on slicks with the correct gearing that it would be right at it but you have to consider that he doesn't have the budget left to buy a set of wheels and slicks to run so I am thinking stock ef with GSR swap(stock) on street tires would probably be right on the 14.0 threshold give or take a tenth. Again, not sure on any of these things, just speculating

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    --> 100 - 150 shot wet on refreshed D (preferably the D16Z6 I have wasting away in my garage... LOL)

    --> slicks

    --> weight reduction

    --> full bolt-ons

    --> Uber
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    DC5-R
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99SI
    He would need my motor that you're building now. That should get him into the thirteens pretty deep with slicks. But if I were doing the 5k budget without having anything but a stock EF to start with. SOHC turbo would be the way I'd go. Sooooo much torque even with low daily driven boost. If he could find a good D16 vtec(or non v for that matter) and supply it for yall to build it could save a few bucks and although you take your chances on the reliability factor maybe freshen it up a bit with the money saved. For instance, high mileage D16 that still has good compression, runs good, no knocking. New bearings, ARP rod bolts, new pistons, rings, slight bore and crosshatch and deck. Then you have a good as new motor to throw a little boost at.
    ^^ thats what I said, sohc turbo FTW!

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Halfwit's Avatar
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    keep ideas coming guys, but i definatle want a dohc vtec, i have a d16 in my dd and hate it with bolt ons..

    dont wnat to spend money on a sohc, reliability issues, only so much it can amount to ect.
    ill probably go with gsr, with bolt ons plus few internals plus nitrous, to start out with.

    WHAT WOULD A GSR WITH I/E/H CAMS, CAM GEARS, GET ME IN THE 1/4? WITH AND WITHOUT NITROUS?
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep.

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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Halfwit
    keep ideas coming guys, but i definatle want a dohc vtec, i have a d16 in my dd and hate it with bolt ons..

    dont wnat to spend money on a sohc, reliability issues, only so much it can amount to ect.
    ill probably go with gsr, with bolt ons plus few internals plus nitrous, to start out with.

    WHAT WOULD A GSR WITH I/E/H CAMS, CAM GEARS, GET ME IN THE 1/4? WITH AND WITHOUT NITROUS?
    *shakes head* quit worrying about 1/4 mile times for one. I've seen a stock H22 in an EF wagon run 13.0 on slicks all night long.

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Halfwit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedminded
    *shakes head* quit worrying about 1/4 mile times for one. I've seen a stock H22 in an EF wagon run 13.0 on slicks all night long.
    hey thanks for contribution but SOMEONE else seems to believe that h22 is too much trouble. lol j/k
    vteckidd
    answer the ?
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep.

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    if you doubt the turbo D, come take a ride in scottys d16 NON VTEC, stock motor, turbo kit.

    makes 202/206

    now go find me a GSR that makes the much power
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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Halfwit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Vteckidd
    if you doubt the turbo D, come take a ride in scottys d16 NON VTEC, stock motor, turbo kit.

    makes 202/206

    now go find me a GSR that makes the much power
    i would like to take u up on that, but is my car gonna blow up when i drive it hard?

    i finally have two cars so i am not up a creek if i break a car so i am gonna red line, nitrous ect.
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Halfwit
    keep ideas coming guys, but i definatle want a dohc vtec, i have a d16 in my dd and hate it with bolt ons..

    dont wnat to spend money on a sohc, reliability issues, only so much it can amount to ect.
    ill probably go with gsr, with bolt ons plus few internals plus nitrous, to start out with.

    WHAT WOULD A GSR WITH I/E/H CAMS, CAM GEARS, GET ME IN THE 1/4? WITH AND WITHOUT NITROUS?
    Stick w/ the single cam. You can trip over a D series at the grocery store while looking for condoms. Stock for stock (exculding K, dunno much about 'em) they can take more NOS than any other Honda motor. Not to mention it's a non-interference motor, if you break a D you did it on purpose. I sprayed 100 shot wet on my old fully bolted Si for over a year and the motor took it all day.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Halfwit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    Stick w/ the single cam. You can trip over a D series at the grocery store while looking for condoms. Stock for stock (exculding K, dunno much about 'em) they can take more NOS than any other Honda motor. Not to mention it's a non-interference motor, if you break a D you did it on purpose. I sprayed 100 shot wet on my old fully bolted Si for over a year and the motor took it all day.
    oooooh fight! VTECKIDD told me d series = not good for nitrous cause i was gonna do it on my dd ek
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep.

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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Halfwit
    hey thanks for contribution but SOMEONE else seems to believe that h22 is too much trouble. lol j/k
    vteckidd
    answer the ?
    yeah, if you don't do the work yourself it will cost you more in fabrication to shoehorn it in then just buying a b-series.

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    ^^ this will be the 1st time I call out VTECKIDD. Tell me another motor in the Honda family that can take more spray.... waiting... I am not telling you what I HEARD, I am telling you what I DID! That motor is STILL in my garage, and was running when I took it out of my 92 Si.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Halfwit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    ^^ this will eb te 1st time I call out VTECKIDD. Tell me another motor in the Honda family that can take more spray.... waiting... I am not telling you what I HEARD, I am telling you what I DID!
    i talksed to him on aim about a month ago when i got hte ek and wanted spray and he said no good.
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep.

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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    ^^ this will eb te 1st time I call out VTECKIDD. Tell me another motor in the Honda family that can take more spray.... waiting... I am not telling you what I HEARD, I am telling you what I DID!
    green91 was getting 230hp on his wasn't he...yo where are you chris?

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    i thought you guys said reliable. sohc turbo really isn't that reliable.

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    You WILL need to refresh the motor before going that big... no1 owned my 92 before me, so I knew the motor was babied (back then I was a mini-trucker so I could care less about the car).
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    Quote Originally Posted by mumbles
    i thought you guys said reliable. sohc turbo really isn't that reliable.
    YOU sir are smoking crack. LOL.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Halfwit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    You WILL need to refresh the motor before going that big... no1 owned my 92 before me, so I knew the motor was babied (back then I was a mini-trucker so I could care less about the car).
    well i cant be swappin insurance back and forth every two weeks when i mess the motor up all the time. need reliability.
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Halfwit
    well i cant be swappin insurance back and forth every two weeks when i mess the motor up all the time. need reliability.
    A refreshed D can take a hundred shot wet (w/ full bolt-ons) like a CHAMP!!! I DID IT FOR OVER A YEAR!!!!!
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Halfwit
    well i cant be swappin insurance back and forth every two weeks when i mess the motor up all the time. need reliability.
    save your pennies until you can afford something worthwhile...slowly put stuff together as you find good deals.

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    How about a fully build d16a6 (with ZC pistons) with a y8 head (with the works and milled). ZC tranny (with Si final gear) with lsd, and a lot of weight reduction (jdm bumpers front and rear and nothing in the car). If that don't work throw a small shot on it, and it should get you into the 13's.

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    ^^ stop talking about your setup!!! LOL. Go away!!!
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    YOU sir are smoking crack. LOL.
    you tell me one boosted honda owner that can't resist turning the boost up on there little car and next thing you BOOM!!!

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Halfwit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedminded
    save your pennies until you can afford something worthwhile...slowly put stuff together as you find good deals.
    afford something worth while? wtf thats what we are discussing, are u saying a gsr isnt worhtwhile?

    i dont slowly put stuff together.
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mumbles
    you tell me one boosted honda owner that can't resist turning the boost up on there little car and next thing you BOOM!!!
    One that has COMMON DAMN SENSE!! I suggest you google an article "CAMDICAPPED" from DSPORT mag. Z6 bottom, Y8 top, 17lbs --> 345WHP @ 17 lbs. UNSLEEVED, and 10PSI daily. I back-ordered this magazine just to get the specs on the build. I can post them if you like.

    http://www.dragsport.com/issue/2004/0904_toc.shtml

    Please do not post when you do not know what you are talking about.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    ^^ stop talking about your setup!!! LOL. Go away!!!
    don't believe him! B-series all the way!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdare23
    don't believe him! B-series all the way!
    When you get it dialed in, please add "I Got The Idea On This Build From Baby J" sticker on the hood of your car. That's all I ask.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Halfwit's Avatar
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    wtf answer my ?s about gsr with bolt ons and spray and a few internals.
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep.

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About us
ImportAtlanta is a community of gearheads and car enthusiasts. It does not matter what kind of car or bike you drive, IA is an open community for any gearhead. Whether you're looking for advice on a performance build or posting your wheels for sale, you're welcome here!
Announcement
Welcome back to ImportAtlanta. We are currently undergoing many changes, so please report any issues you encounter with the site using the 'Contact Us' button below. Thank you!