On a street car? If so thats retarded. Have fun putting race gas in all the time!Originally Posted by Hondatwin23
On a street car? If so thats retarded. Have fun putting race gas in all the time!Originally Posted by Hondatwin23
The point I was trying to get across was that n/a guys have to worry about the same things that boost guys have to worry about excluding the boost. It has nothing to do with 14:1cr number I though out there. Everybody that knows anything knows 12.5:1 is the threash hold for pump gas. And even at that cr denotation is still a bitch. Thats all.Originally Posted by 1439/2000
Actually every1 DOESN'T know that.Originally Posted by Ludester
want proof, make a poll ON THIS SITE (full of "car guys") and see what people guess. You'd be surprised. Hardly NE1 runs that high compression, so no1 really has that knowledge in their head.
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well that may also be because its also not a plausible setup for a street carOriginally Posted by BABY J
and by street car in my definition I mean you drive it daily ( or almost )
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The more I think about it, the more I see your right. Not many people actually know that.Originally Posted by BABY J
This thread has a lot of potential, but J you have to clarify a couple of things IMO.
#1. Define "engineering" as it relates to this thread. I'm sure we can all give examples of some very intricate and complex turbo setups that required a ton of R&D, a ton of $, and a ton of engineering. Look at many of the race cars at the track.
#2. If you held everything the same (ie. car model, weight, driver), most N/A cars can not hang with it's turbo clone unless the race is specifically designed to have an advantage to one vs the other. In other words, if you race two clone cars (one turbo, one N/A) in a tight close course where HP is not the name of the game.....there is no advantage of course. Now, race the same two cars in a straight line or on the highway and it's lights out soon enough. There are exceptions to this of course, but more often than not it's true.
#3. Unless you buy your "turbo kit" off ebay......most of the time it takes a little more than merely "turning up the boost" to make more HP. This is why some "kits" make more HP on similar cars than do others. It's about engineering and tuning. You can pick from probably 50 different kinds of turbos right off the shelf for a Honda, but try and find one for my car....So a "kit" for my car has to have a lot more "engineering" than just an off the shelf piece that uses a plain ole cast manifold, T3/T4 turbo, and a no name brand I/C. Know what I mean? There are a lot of custom setups on the street right now, around here, that are feats of engineering if you really want to look at it.
Yes, it is easier to make more HP with a turbo vs N/A. Yes, you can throw together a turbo kit of course, just like you can throw a bunch of nitrous in just about any car. Yes, it is harder to make an N/A car put out serious HP for a lot of reasons but the main one is......ALL engines use the exact same theory to make power REGARDLESS of N/A or FI or N2O. The biggest difference being that in the N/A motor it has to be done with more parts than doing it with FI.
I still like big balls (ie. big torque) N/A motors in the domestic muscle cars. They're bad ass. I've been on both sides of the fence, and if it's not big displacement, give me FI.
I understand that. But most turbo guys don't deal with detonation because of compression ratios. Most factory turbo cars are setup fine to turn up the wick a little bit safely without detonation. Then throw more fuel at it.Originally Posted by Ludester
NA tuning is a little harder with 20894 to 1 compression. And whoever had the 14.5 cr car, there are more cost effective and eaiser ways to make power. Race gas all the time to run what like 13s all motor?