I am thinking about getting an Audi A4 with the 1.8t. Is the car pretty quick? And if it is not quick stock does it have potential?
Thanks
Steven
1.8T
I am thinking about getting an Audi A4 with the 1.8t. Is the car pretty quick? And if it is not quick stock does it have potential?
Thanks
Steven
They aren't too bad stock but definitely have some potential. They are kinda pigs and the AWD creates more drive train loss than say a GTI 1.8TOriginally Posted by kingkong
A chipped/bolt on 1.8T should be around 200 hp and 260ish tq then if you want to go big turbo you can make alot of power.
which body style are you looking at the B5 or the B6. My gf has a B6 and it seems much heavier than my other friends B5 but the car is quite a bit nicer on the interior.
Lee
2005 C55 AMG
durtydubs
I love the 1.8T, I do recomment the non-quattro platform since there isnt enough power to justify AWD, even when chipped and supporting mods. Most quattro guys that intentionally bought it for the AWD are doing major mods, big turbos etc, and still have breakage issues...... Before you get an A4 , drive a Jetta GLI 1.8T...you may change your mind on the heavier lethargic audi.
Greg
86 Buick GN
07 Passat Wagon
01 Frontier
Great motor, cheap power. Make sure to look at the block code, AEB is a strong platform so is AWD. GIAC software($600) and about $2k in bolt ons should put you at 200hp(more or less depending on code) and 265 tq. You could also do a k04 upgrade for a few grand and make 250hp. And if thats not enough big turbo is always an option.
Note those numbers are not for all wheel drive cars, so calculate the loss accordingly.
***Lotus Elise***
BlackWatchRacing/Sector111/Larini Exhausts/Difflow Diffusers/Classic Livery of Atlanta Paint/APR Performance
no there not quick and yes, it takes some money to make it quick. plus pricy cars to fix when they brake down
would the 3.0 be better than getting the 1.8t?
I dont know the difference between the b5 and b6 but I was looking at 03+ models
Not a whole lot you can do to 3.0, but stock its faster.
***Lotus Elise***
BlackWatchRacing/Sector111/Larini Exhausts/Difflow Diffusers/Classic Livery of Atlanta Paint/APR Performance
1.8T is by far the most tunable motor out there for the size and $$$.
The 2003 model is the B6 and is heavier than the B5. If your looking to mod the car get the 1.8T but I disagree with the poster above saying dont get the quattro. The thing takes corners really well with the AWD. Ive been in both non quattro/quattro cars and it just dosnt pull through the turns the same way as the quattro . Yea you will lose some power and add some weight but its definitely more fun in my book out in the twisties.
FYI
B5
B6
Lee
2005 C55 AMG
durtydubs
go for the quattro..
wheel hop is a bitch in these car when modded
quattro > FWD always.
As in any forum some will always see things differently.....
In theory I agree, but this proves to the exception, the fastest 1.8Ts on the planet are all fwd, no reason for awd on a heavy car w/ little power. Even modded, a good tire on a fwd will still get you 1.9-2.0 60' times, the AWD will not do any better before breakage becomes an issue, and you are def slower on a roll awd. (Only a handfull of 1.8tQs get -1.9 60's)I recommend staying 1.8T vs 3.0, and leave the weight and extra cost of the AWD in favor for perf parts from the get go. (I also prefer the VW over Audi if you wanna go fast...lighter platforms.....even though they actually are still heavy)
Greg
86 Buick GN
07 Passat Wagon
01 Frontier
They aren't too bad stock but definitely have some potential. They are kinda pigs and the AWD creates more drive train loss than say a GTI 1.8T
A chipped/bolt on 1.8T should be around 200 hp and 260ish tq then if you want to go big turbo you can make alot of power.
which body style are you looking at the B5 or the B6. My gf has a B6 and it seems much heavier than my other friends B5 but the car is quite a bit nicer on the interior.
Lee
True.. if you use APR you will those weak numbers..
1.8T + GIAC = easy.. 215 to 220hp / 270 to 280 torque.
yeah I say go the VW route too, but I would go with the GTI. The Jetta in my opinion is a girl car, but that is just me. But for speed and all a R32 would be best, but that is just the dreams of many...
shoot kyle even has his GTI up forsale...
I haven't road in any of the AWD 1.8ts, but I have a FWD Passat. I don't have the chip in yet, but if I were to do all the engine modifications it would be a peppy little engine.
everything to get u started
1. CHIP: ($500 NEW)
This is by far the most important modification one can/should do to a 1.8T, right out of the get-go. You will find that some people have just done a diode mod, manual boost controller (MBC), and a higher bar fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to achieve chip-like boost levels. Personally, I’ve never gone this route and think that to get where I’ve gotten, a chipped program is an absolute must. If you want to get the most out of your stock turbo, you need some good programming. Custom is great, but you shouldn’t do it unless you have every other mod done, as your tuner will be able to make use of all your other parts and get more power. Therefore, you have to choose between the BIG 3: APR, GIAC, and REVO. I’ve never been a fan of APR’s programming. It makes decent power, but it just isn’t aggressive enough. REVO seems to be quicker than APR, and they have the Stage II that uses an SPS Controller so you can adjust boost and timing yourself. When I had my GTI, I ran an old GIAC file. The only person who was quicker than me was a friend with another GTI that still to this day runs GIAC X+, which is their latest file. Now, my g/f’s GLI is also running X+. I’ve yet to see an X+’d car lose to REVO or APR with similar mods. So my suggestion to you is to find the nearest GIAC dealer. You’ll get the most aggressive file for your car.
As for the extra options provided, that’s soley up to you. If you have access to a lap top that HAS A 9 PIN SERIAL PORT, don’t bother with the Race file, as you can make timing adjustments using a free program called Lemmiwinks. If you’re not one to mess with things, then get the Race file. This allows you to get the most out of putting in 100 octane gas. The valet mode will cut power to keep others from beating on your car. If you ever plan on using an MBC, you can do that yourself. Get what you think is worth it to you.
2. EXHAUST: ($500-1000 NEW)
A quality turboback exhaust system is another great mod to do right away. The stock system is extremely restrictive, especially the downpipe. If you’re modding one part at a time, do a bigger downpipe FIRST, as you’ll see the bigger gain from this. There are arguments up and down about which is better: 2.5” or 3”. Some think 3” is overkill, and they’re wrong. I had a 3” on my GTI, my friend has a 3” on his GTI, my g/f’s GLI has a 3”…never a problem. The 3” systems are a little bit louder, but sound has a lot to do with whether or not your exhaust comes with a catalytic converter, resonator, and/or muffler. There are some cheap systems and some expensive. GHL is QUALITY, and they have a lifetime warranty. You can buy a downpipe from someone and fab the rest yourself too.
Two things that you’ll probably experience after installing your exhaust is a Check Engine Light (CEL) for an O2 sensor, saying catalyst below threshold. That O2 sensor is just seeing more flow than it’s supposed to. You can let it go and your car will run just like it always has…well better since you now have a freer flowing system. A way to remedy this is adding a spacer to back the sensor out of the exhaust stream. Here is a thread that shows exactly what you’ll need to do. The other problem some see is if the car is lowered and you get a 3” system, you may hear it rattle over your rear axle. This is just common sense because a bigger diameter pipe in a smaller gap will start hitting stuff. To remedy this, grab 2 zip ties, and get under the car from the rear. Look at the muffler hanger between the muffler and rear axle. Wrap the zip ties vertically around the rubber piece and tighten them up to pull the rear part of the exhaust system up higher. By doing this, you’re moving it away from the axle, so it will no longer rattle.
3. INTAKE: ($100-300 NEW)
Definitely one of the most questionable mods you could ever do to your stock turbo’d 1.8T. I’ve actually done testing on this, and found that there are very little differences between setups. The most reliable and cheap thing to do is to buy a K&N flat panel filter, smooth out the insides of your stock airbox, and you’re done. I’ve run open inlet, a cold air, short ram, stock airbox, and nothing feels noticeably different than the other. One thing to remember about cold airs is you can’t COMPLETELY SUBMERGE the filter or you’ll risk hydrolocking your engine. I’ve driven through heavy downpours, all of winter, and never had problems. You just need to be smart about not getting curious when you see a puddle. By upgrading to anything but stock airbox, it will get you the PSSSSH sound from your diverter valve (DV). I’m running an ESE Colormatched cold air on the GLI…and mainly because Jen thinks it looks good. It gives some room in the engine bay also. If you’re willing to spend the money, the absolute BEST OF THE BEST intake to buy is the EVOMS V-Flow. It’s a short ram design that utilizes a venturi and velocity stack to suck in air faster than a hoover vacuum. I ran tests on chipped boost levels, and I’ve seen data on big turbo setups. It’s definitely a worthy intake, and it’ll get you the cool sound too.
4. TURBO INLET: ($200 NEW)
If you’ve ever seen pictures of the stock turbo inlet pipe, it is a squished piece of metal and a restriction on the intake side of your turbo. If you’ve opened up the exhaust side, do the same to the intake. You’ll see quicker spool and hold more boost in the upper rpm range. ABD and Neuspeed both sell just the lower half, which is a metal pipe replacement. The problem is you’re still stuck with the accordion-like rubber piece up top. Back in the day when Samco was still around, it was the part to buy. Now, you can either go Forge or APR. They make an entire silicone hose that runs from your Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor down to the turbo. It’s definitely the better option. Some have trouble installing it and sliding it past one of the coolant lines along the block. You can either unbolt the line, or, lube up the hose like a porn star and push from the top and pull from the bottom. It’ll come right on down.
5. DIVERTER VALVE: ($125-200 NEW)
With the higher boost levels you’re seeing, you may consider getting a new bypass valve, which is what’s making that PSSSH sound when you let off the gas. A cheap option is to buy the factory Audi TT valve through a dealer for $35 or so. There are TONS of companies that make aftermarket ones in different shapes, colors, and configurations. Some have a metal piston and others have diaphragms. The diaphragms are lighter, and therefore react quicker, but they also tend to rip. Forge has a special polymer reinforced diaphragm that supposedly will hold up. We’re running a Forge 007 piston type valve with no issues. Some piston type valves may require you to oil them once in a grand while. As for the Blowoff Valve (BOV) vs. DV issue, it’s hit or miss. What’s going on is your MAF meters air coming in, and stock, it knows that air your turbo already compressed is gonna come right back into the intake and down into the turbo again. By using a BOV, that air is gone, but the MAF doesn’t know that. What you may run into is running rich, because you now have the same amount of fuel for less air. Richness may make the car run unsteady or stall when coming to a stop. My g/f’s GLI HATES BOV’s, and a great way to test to see if your car doesn’t mind is to go to Home Depot and find a 3/4” plastic PVC plug. Pull your DV out of your intake hose, and plug the hole. Turn the car on and start driving around. You’ll feel a difference if it’s bad. At idle the rpms will bounce around randomly. The only difference between a BOV and DV really is the sound, and that’s what most people care about. BOV’s are usually always louder, but DV’s aren’t necessarily quiet. Stick with what works for YOUR car, and not what someone tells you over the internet because it works on theirs.
Another option on rigging up your DV is relocating it to a “cold side” position. Stock, it’s connected to the pipe RIGHT AFTER the turbo. Most front mount intercooler kits also run the DV like this too. Relocating the DV means putting it right before the throttle body, after your intercooler. There isn’t going to be a HUGE gain from doing this, but what it does is this: When you let off the throttle, the throttle body slams shut, and all the boosted air in your piping has to get out. At the stock location, all the air has to go backwards to your DV to be let out. If you relocate, you keep the air moving in the same direction, which theoretically, would help with spool up since the turbo isn’t working against itself. To make a return line, either go custom and use some sort of pipe or find hose that is big enough to fit over the DV outlet.
6. SPARK PLUGS: ($15 NEW)
When you start running higher boost levels than stock, your plugs are going to need a change. With higher boost means higher temperatures inside the combustion chambers, and therefore you’ll want a colder plug. The most commonly talked about/used plugs are NGK BKR7E’s. You can get them just about ANYWHERE and they’re cheap. I’ve paid around $12 for 4 of them. Make sure they are gapped at .028 for optimum performance. Gapping them to high will result in the spark just blowing out as boost enters the combustion chamber, and gapping them to low will keep an actual spark from occurring. The electricity will jump right to the electrode so fast and it’ll be so small that it won’t ignite the air/fuel mixture.
Another mod to do around this same time would be to invest in some coil pack hold downs. Sometimes, the remedy for a coilpack coming up off the valve cover is retorqing your spark plugs. But I’ve had times where even with them properly torqued, the coilpacks would still pop up. A user on VWVortex by the name of enginerd custom makes and sells a set of hold down brackets to go over the coilpacks. If you don’t have the style coilpacks that have the holes in them to bolt them to the valve cover, get these, as they are more of a reliability mod and you’ll drive assured they will never come out on ya.
7. UPGRADED INTERCOOLER: ($400-1000 NEW)
The stock side mount intercooler is a big heat soak and is basically like a condom…it’s only good for one hard use. Most people upgrade to a front mount intercooler (FMIC) because it not only keeps your intake temperatures down, it looks appealing as well. BoostFactory and Tyrolsport make quality upgraded sidemount intercoolers (SMIC), but they are more stealth because you can’t see them as easily. The nice thing is they bolt up in the stock location. There are many FMIC kits out there, and you’ll pay around $700 or so for a quality one. Another option is to just buy a core and custom make your piping yourself. If you do, run 2.25” piping from your turbo to the intercooler, and 2.5” piping from the intercooler to the throttle body. Going custom would be a great time to relocate your DV as well. I chose to look on eBay and buy just a bar/plate core and make custom piping. If you do this, look for SSAutochrome, as they have quality cores for cheap. Do some searching for clamps and couplers yourself as you’ll find many places and perhaps cheaper places than I found. Finally by going custom, you’ll need a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor flange from 42 Draft Designs. Most kits have one welded on, but by going custom, you’ll need to buy one in either aluminum or steel (depending on your piping material).
The main benefit of running an upgraded IC is the temperature drop at the intake manifold. If you use Lemmiwinks, you can raise your ignition timing to gain more performance. When you get toward the end of the stock turbo mod stick, you’ll be glad you have one as this is what will keep you running efficiently.
8. PULLEYS: ($200 NEW)
Another mod that has been argued over many a time, lightweight pulleys are used to replace your stock crank, power steering, and alternator pulleys. These stock pieces, especially the crank, are heavy, and thus require more energy to rotate them. By swapping for lighter ones, you free up some of that energy and it’s of course, easier to spin a 1lb pulley than a 10lb one. The alternator pulley may be too difficult for some to replace as newer 1.8Ts use a specialty bit needed to remove the nut. ECS has them and you can rent it out but pay for it. I haven’t replaced the alternator pulley in Jen’s GLI…just the crank and power steering ones. Those two are far heavier than their lightweight counterparts, and thus I believe to be the important ones to replace. Unorthodox Racing also makes lightweight pulleys, but I’ve never installed them. Go with ECS and forget about it.
9. INTAKE MANIFOLD SPACER: ($70 NEW)
There are a few out there, but the most known brand is made by New South Performance, called the Powergasket. It’s a replacement gasket for your stock intake manifold to head. What it does is keep engine heat from radiating up into the intake manifold because of the polymer it’s made out of. The stock gasket is a very thin metal and easily transfers heat. There is a new version called the Powergasket Plus which has a coating on it so there is no need to apply any sealant. I’ve seen two melted Powergaskets before, and both were on big turbo, high HP setups, so there is no need to worry about yours going bad. Get the latest version and you shouldn’t have any problems. Taking off the intake manifold is no easy task for some, but the gasket comes with directions to help ya along the way. This mod coupled with a FMIC will show some very low intake temps.
10. MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER: ($40-200 NEW)
Your car comes with an electronic boost controller from the factory, called the N75 valve. It’s plugged into the inlet hose and has two vac lines running to it. What happens is as boost is made, it travels through the one line, goes through the N75, and out the other. The other line leads to the wastegate (WG) which is the actual boost controller. When enough pressure pushes on the WG actuator, it opens the gate inside the exhaust side of the turbo and bypasses exhaust gas around the turbine, and thus, keeps the turbo from spooling up any more. There are “race” N75 valves offered, but I’ve never cared to use them. I hear mixed feelings and getting the wrong one can make your car run like poo. Investing in a MBC may be the best option for ya. I’d recommend going with a Boostvalve setup, as they are reliable and easy to install. There are a few ways to hook them up, but what I believe to be the best way is to not use the N75 at all, and just run the boost and WG lines to the MBC alone. DO NOT UNPLUG THE N75. This will put you into limp mode, which limits boost to 5psi. You’ll have to plug the port for the N75 in the intake hose. Currently Jen’s GLI is using a DualStage MBC from Boostvalve, which lets us run 2 different boost levels. This is where some reliability comes into play because we can run low boost daily and not put as much stress on the turbo and engine components. With the simple flick of a switch, we’re back to high boost.
MBC’s seem to give quicker spool than the N75. The N75 is more like a bleeder valve because it slowly lets boost by to the WG actuator. MBCs completely block boost until it’s high enough to overcome spring tension, and therefore, the WG isn’t touched until this point. One issue you’ll run into is what’s called “part-throttle surging.” What happens is you apply the gas half way, and boost spikes up to what you’re set at, and then falls back down. You aren’t requesting that it make that much boost, but it flies up that high anyways, and may feel jerky. By learning how to deal with it, you’ll forget about it. Most people just give up and go back to a N75 or run the lines using the N75 also. What I do is just hold the gas steady, and the boost falls back down without jerking the car. Being in low boost also keeps it from surging as much because it only initially spikes to 8psi, instead of much higher.
thank u michael
the audi is nice but i would suggest vw over audi if you are buying for the motor... in the 1.8t i would say go fwd > awd unless we are talking TT; even then justifying the cost vs. speed/pwr... go VW and fwd.
you can easily attain 1.9 60' w/ fwd, my little k03 was a few shy of 300lbs so you can make quite a bit of pwr w/ stock turbo.
oh and when you get the 1.8t make sure that the timing belt is either done, or have it done from 70k to 100k
My buddy has a B6 1.8T 5speed A4 (non Quattro). It's a nice car, but it's a total pig in the performance department.
My old '92 Acura Legend (CAI, catback exhaust, engine damper, few other little things) pulled pretty hard on it, and to me, that car was pretty slow.
If you want a quick car without putting a good bit of money into, it's not for you.
It depends on what your looking for. If you have plans to make huge power then your looking at the wrong car...as even 1.8's with big turbos are struggling to make any significant figures. If your looking for a good car, thats sexy as hell, and has potential to be a fun daily driver/occasional track car and somewhat peppy then the 1.8T is the way to go. Thay are great looking and easy to make descent in the speed department. I'd suggest an 01 as they have 170hp vs 150 and with simple chip/exhaust/cat delete you can expect around 240+ crank hp and nearly 300ft/lbs. If you look at it you now have a car comparible to a 350z from a roll. The older ones simply don't make as much power and have more problems but they are still good cars for daily use and descent. If you want to go fast and german for as cheap as possible then take a look at the Jetta. Good bang for the buck but has half the presence of the Audi.
My jetta 1.8t is giac chipped, 2.5" TB made 200whp 250wtq. w/ good tires and new motor mounts , it will help eliminate wheel hop.
But if your looking for somthing for the track, dont by a vw or a honda, or any 4 banger. You can get yourself a 5.0 stang or any camaro or trans am with lt1'sin good condition from 8-10 grand. The trans am and camaros w/ the ls1's are around 15grand. Drop a few grand in it and you got yourself a 12 sec car. To get any vw in the 12's your gonna spend alot more money on it. When you do get your vw in the 12s it wont be as reliable as those 12 sec domestics.
yeah get a 1.8t non quattro thats what i have.
ive ran 2 quattros and had them by 4-5 cars.
audis are way better looking then VW's
audi=boobs lol
12.2 @ 115mph
RESIZE PIC PLEASE
i beg to differ
just giving you a hard time..i do want an A3 someday
x2 and pure sex wagon!i beg to differ
lol i still think audis look better.
jk vw's are good looking also. but i drive an audi so yeah lol
12.2 @ 115mph
RESIZE PIC PLEASE
get a vw 1.8t awp gti
even better
get a awd- strongest 1.8t motor for vw
aww- reacts best to mods
Don't you guys ever read VWVortex? The 1.8T can NEVAR LOSE!!11!!!
Seriously though, the Audi is too heavy of a car to benefit from the 1.8T. The MkIV VW's aren't very light either to tell the truth.
And as far as daily driving goes... that depends on whether or not your boss minds you being late/missing from work.
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