B18b1 93 ls block -94-01 head
okay apparnetly u can tell this is my first engine build so would u help me figure out a good setup?
B18b1 93 ls block -94-01 head
okay apparnetly u can tell this is my first engine build so would u help me figure out a good setup?
Last edited by sakasaku; 08-20-2008 at 06:01 AM.
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what motor?
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sry forgot
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Is this for the LS
Editing at the moment I make my post FTL![]()
Paintless Dent Removal TechnicianCondemnant quod non intellegunt
Pretty much all of it is wrong to tell you the truth LOL
Here we go:
SPrings and Retainers are fine
Cams, not a big fan of BC but as long as they are close to 404s then thats fine.
The amount of work youll have to do to get the valves to work negates them. and you wont see that much of a power gain if any.
Stock Injectors are fine. They will support 200whp and you will be nowhere near that.
Aem Fuel rail is good if you like to waste money. It doest absolutely NOTHING. Stock rails are good for 600whp. If you want an aftermarket Rail buy the SKunk2 Composite rail, at least it lowers Fuel Temps.
GSR transmission, not as bad as an LS but still sucks. B16 is what you are going to want since you have a low HP engine with ok TORQUE youll want the shortest gears possible.
DC Sport header, its ok, not the best obviously. Tri-Y is much better.
Whale Penis is proven to NOT make power. Its a fad, the Regular AEM CAI DESTROYS it.
I would rather you purchase a Competition Clutch Stage 2 than an Exedy Stage 1. FLywheel is fine, id go with the lightest you can find.
All Motor LSs dont make a ton of power, and with you keeping a stock bottom end, dont expect much, youll be lucky to hit 150whp.
Personally, you can save a TON OF MONEY if instead of buying cams, springs, ret, you buy a $350 GSR head an do an LSVTEC.
Youll make MORE POWER with a VTEC head over a NON VTEC ANY DAY and it costs less than the build you have posted.
I dont see the point in being DIFFERENT if DIFFERENT means being slow
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i am still a baby in the game so thanx
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i dont always agree with mike but ryan your part choices are all over the place some expensive some cheap if you want the ls just to have a motor then do all oem and drive it till you can build a head worth building ie gsr head , itr head if your not going for boost forget about doing cams and such in a ls its pointless. Do a oem rebuild on the motor drop it in drive and be happy while you get another motor on the stand hence what i am in the process of doing
^^^x2 mr. kidd is exactly right. i took my time doing my ls vtec and it sucked haveing to wait on funds for the parts but in the end it's worth it trust me. and if you need a machine shop lmk cuz i can hook it up![]()
Jay's right. Cams that make good power at the top will idle like crap on a non-VTEC engine, and you'll hate driving on the street.
EDit read first post to help!?!?!?! kinda lost
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I say ctrs pistons,get cranks balanced and blueprinted.Get everything like piston rings,main bearings,rod bearings and thrust washers.Pretty much everything needed for stock rebuild.Oil pump,timing belt and other etc. alot of people underestimate low mileage Honda motors.
no youre not, Cams in a stock block ls make little to no power.Originally Posted by southside
EJALLMOTA who has prob the best OEM setup motor (B16 Pistons, Crower 403s, JDM 2.5in Header, PR8 Head)
And he made like 154whp. It was a fun car, but dont think, its some magical stupid fast ride. We talked about doing 404s in his car, but he would have had a crappy idle and he might have made another 5-8whp if he was lucky.
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Originally Posted by southside
Only 1 crank in a honda motor playa
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CTR pistons are too much compression in an LS. B16 pistons are actually the better choice.
Aren't b16 pistons 84 mm bore? if i can find them ill get the boreOriginally Posted by jfrolang
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No dude, all B-series are 81mm, except for the B20B/Z (those are 84).Originally Posted by sakasaku
o kay should i swap the crank to? in that case ill buy some b16 pistons!!!! and crank!!!!!Originally Posted by jfrolang
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k wat about rods ls or b16 rods?
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if so i might buy these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B16-B...WDVWQQtcZphoto
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what about valve clearance? i am reading on another forum that it will hit the valves? probly cause its talking about ls vtec idk?
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just got to go to the machine shop and get the rods pressed onOriginally Posted by southside
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Yea I got mine done for 40$ just took them the b16 pistons and my rods and they did it.But they will tell you the pistons might break in the process.In that case I would just buy them new but mines didnt break.Or anyone else I know that has had it done.Originally Posted by sakasaku
wat about valve clearance? and i have some b seires cams Pr3 little scorn trade for tanabe medallion
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try an ls block crank and rods,b16 or type r pistons to bump compression, a gsr head for its smaller combustion chambers and better quench area and even more compression, stock gsr cams to start off, and a chipped p28 or stock p30 or something to get you going. then later to help build power with these all motor setups you can add cams that will better suit this compression to help add some but perhaps as KIDD said earlier very little power as fatr as ls heads and cams.the only way is to build an ls vtec because you can go more agressive on your secodary profiles and still have a crisp idle. mine put down 212hp to the wheels on all stock internals with p 30 pistons and gsr cams. i finally stepped up to a b20 bottom end and opened up my intake valve dishes a tad in the pistons for the bigger gsr valves,revhard t3 t4 kit on 8 psi tunned by scotty at mainstream with the same stock gsr head,cams and stock internals of the b20 wich is same as ls with exeption of 3mm bigger pistons, on pump gas and am puttin down 260whp @ only 8 psi. this is what i know to work with all stock intenal honda parts and not have to go stupid crazy and get caught up in the after market bullcrap!
i think those are b16 cams my friend.just like p30 is also. then i think p3 is type r. all you need is a vtec head for all these partsOriginally Posted by sakasaku
Do the pistons come out of top or bottom cause i really don't want to take the head off if its not nessary.dudw there ls cams it doesnt have the extra lobe for Vtak.
Last edited by sakasaku; 08-21-2008 at 05:39 AM.
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NO THAT PART # PR3 IS B16 AS WELL AS P30. SOMEONES CHANGED THE CAM GEARS. L/S IS PR4Originally Posted by sakasaku
LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!
me i was just wonderingOriginally Posted by southside
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This LS talk makes me wanna barf, anyway .. (to SouthSide) go ahead & build your LS & when it puts down 155 WHP then we can do a hwy pull to see whos car is quicker but don't be mad if I pull by a bus.