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Thread: type r all motor question...

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    Default type r all motor question...

    I have a jdm b18c-r and in the near future i want to rebuild it..so i was wondering what's the best way to go to get more hp and so on...lmk...thanx..

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    __DailyGrind
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    if i have a Type R.....LEGIT!...i keep it exactly like it is from honda....lolz...wit mugen bolt ons

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    wanna trade for that k20 you got..haha..j.k.yea i was thinking about that but i kinda want some more power to it...



    Quote Originally Posted by VinhBodyS
    if i have a Type R.....LEGIT!...i keep it exactly like it is from honda....lolz...wit mugen bolt ons

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    The Squirrel Master Mpatient's Avatar
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    In my opinion the type-R setup is fucking strong, but to get more horse power. . . raise your compression and get some more extreme cams. def. get bottom end parts to support ex.(Rods, barrings, pistons to actually rais the compression, oil pump) and also get bolt ons to support. ex.(Intake manifold, stock injector may work, Ignition system, larger exhaust kit.)

    this should allow you to bump your rev limit way up and also give way more power in the RPM climb

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    Vuong's Garage Vuongy_Dong's Avatar
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    keep the bottom end as is. send the head off to get ported and upgrade the valvetrain, cams and all.

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    stroke it

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    that was one of thoughts...



    Quote Originally Posted by itr#17
    stroke it

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    keep the bottom end, its a great platform for a daily driven set up.

    send the head off to DONf ent. Mainstream does work though them. get it ported polished, aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, a pretty aggressive cam, header, if you do it right should be around the 200 WHP range.

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    A.D.I.D.A.S. §treet_§peed's Avatar
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    all mota for TYPE-R TyTe CaR...
    You know better; next time will be a ban.

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    haha yea..it's going in my eg hatch...



    Quote Originally Posted by §treet_§peed
    all mota for TYPE-R TyTe CaR...

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    Is the car burning oil or having any blow by issues? I ask because when you say rebuild it, I'm just wondering if there is a problem or you just think it needs it. If you are not having any oil consumption issues or blowby problems then the bottom end should be fine for a mild build. If you are planning to run a cam such as the M22x from RM or the Skunk2 Pro1 it wouldn't be a bad idea to put in some ARP rod bolts to keep it all together when you're spinning it up high. If you are going to do rod bolts then you may as well do new bearings, pistons, rings and IF the block needs it a slight bore and new hone. If the factory cross hatch is still present then I would just put in new pistons/rings, ACL bearings, ARP rod bolts, and the other obvious stuff,(oil pump, water pump). As far as making power, the previously mentioned cams, Pro1 or m22x would be a great choice for a car that's still a street car. With the Pro 1's and the accompanying Pro series valvetrain, (if you go Pro 1 do not use any other valvetrain other than Pro series from Skunk2) a GOOD header, such as Hytech, RMF, SMSP, Rage, and a way to tune it, if it's obd1 go with crome, even if it's OBD2 get a conversion harness and run crome, it's that good. PR3 pistons or CTR pistons will both net you a higher compression ratio than the ITR pistons but if the head has been milled any you should probably have someone clay the motor to make sure you are not going to have any clearance issues between the valves and the pistons. MR2JZKIDD can get you some good deals on the Skunk2 stuff and most of the other parts you would want and Mainstream is an excellent choice to do your work if you do not intend to do it yourself. So give them a call when you get ready to do anything. Good luck.

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosted lude
    keep the bottom end, its a great platform for a daily driven set up.

    send the head off to DONf ent. Mainstream does work though them. get it ported polished, aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, a pretty aggressive cam, header, if you do it right should be around the 200 WHP range.
    With the type R head he really doesn't need an expensive port and polish job if he's shooting for the 200whp mark. The type R head has very good flow without it. If he were wanting to go with an all out build then yeah, but for a good street ride without spending a ton of money the head port and polish would be one of the last things I did. With a solid bottom end, good cams, good header, and a good way to tune it shouldn't be too hard to reach 200.

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    good point, i forgot, ive been reading so much into b16 head builds latly, it just comes to mind.


    but i would say 190-200 WHP is easily attainable.

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    greddy exhaust

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    o and a hood scoop to cool it down

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    hood scoops are rice
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    hummm this one sounds pretty good...=)..but only if i had the cash to do all that..



    Quote Originally Posted by 99SI
    Is the car burning oil or having any blow by issues? I ask because when you say rebuild it, I'm just wondering if there is a problem or you just think it needs it. If you are not having any oil consumption issues or blowby problems then the bottom end should be fine for a mild build. If you are planning to run a cam such as the M22x from RM or the Skunk2 Pro1 it wouldn't be a bad idea to put in some ARP rod bolts to keep it all together when you're spinning it up high. If you are going to do rod bolts then you may as well do new bearings, pistons, rings and IF the block needs it a slight bore and new hone. If the factory cross hatch is still present then I would just put in new pistons/rings, ACL bearings, ARP rod bolts, and the other obvious stuff,(oil pump, water pump). As far as making power, the previously mentioned cams, Pro1 or m22x would be a great choice for a car that's still a street car. With the Pro 1's and the accompanying Pro series valvetrain, (if you go Pro 1 do not use any other valvetrain other than Pro series from Skunk2) a GOOD header, such as Hytech, RMF, SMSP, Rage, and a way to tune it, if it's obd1 go with crome, even if it's OBD2 get a conversion harness and run crome, it's that good. PR3 pistons or CTR pistons will both net you a higher compression ratio than the ITR pistons but if the head has been milled any you should probably have someone clay the motor to make sure you are not going to have any clearance issues between the valves and the pistons. MR2JZKIDD can get you some good deals on the Skunk2 stuff and most of the other parts you would want and Mainstream is an excellent choice to do your work if you do not intend to do it yourself. So give them a call when you get ready to do anything. Good luck.

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    how much you think that port and polish might run me??



    Quote Originally Posted by 99SI
    With the type R head he really doesn't need an expensive port and polish job if he's shooting for the 200whp mark. The type R head has very good flow without it. If he were wanting to go with an all out build then yeah, but for a good street ride without spending a ton of money the head port and polish would be one of the last things I did. With a solid bottom end, good cams, good header, and a good way to tune it shouldn't be too hard to reach 200.

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    A quality street port and polish with valve job will run between 800-1000. Like I said, with a type R head do the internals of the head and a good cam first. Depending on the mileage of the motor and any damage that might be there a good valve job from someone like DFE would be a good idea. In an all motor build like you are talking about you would benefit more from the valve job than you would with the port and polish. The valve job is the key, that's why people like DFE who have tested different valve angle cuts to see which one is the best keep their angles a secret.

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    You never said if the car needs a rebuild because of oil consumption or other issues or if you just want a clean slate to start building upon. ????

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    naw..it's runing fine right now...i just wanted to rebuild it but no oil consumption or anything..not that i know of...



    Quote Originally Posted by 99SI
    You never said if the car needs a rebuild because of oil consumption or other issues or if you just want a clean slate to start building upon. ????

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    dont do anything to it internally.

    I would buy Skunk2 PRO1s, Rocket motorsports or OMNIPOWER valverain, a RAGE/RMF header an get it tuned. 190-195whp is attainable
    Main Stream Performance
    Don't make excuses...Make Power

    Digital Box Tuning (Scttydb411)

    www.mainstreamperformance.com

    MSSracing.com

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    damn them header cost a bit too..lol

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    Everything worth putting on your car costs a bit when you're dealing with a Honda. The cost to power gain from all motor is definately not as good as it is with turbo. However, there are certain rewards in staying all motor as well. If you are not consuming any oil then I would definately leave the block alone and focus on spending some money on cams and valvetrain first then try to get a good header. If you keep a sharp eye out you can get a quality header used sometimes at a decent price. MR2JZKIDD can get a good deal on the Rage header which is a good unit at about the lowest price you will find for a quality header. I would focus on making those two things happen first. Mike can also get you a good deal on a cam package with cams, valvesprings, retainers. The type R valves are very good and I would just keep them in there as long as they are still in good shape. Most of the aftermarket basically just tried to copy the type R valves b/c they are that good.

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    Look into getting the IM port matched and reworked. On honda-tech i saw one guy make 15hp just by porting out his type-r manifold. 99si basically covered everything so to sum it up : Cams, header, adjustable cam gears. The piston compression should be fine (JDM is 11.8:1 i think) and u already have 22t water pump and oil pump so u should be ok.

  26. #26
    DYLAN DYLAN DYLAN DYLAN!1 Black R's Avatar
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    just add a turbo.....


    Quote Originally Posted by Tasuki_Civic
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    ^^thats the best idea or maybe a lil shot.

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    Turbo would involve changing the pistons, and if ur gonna do that you might aswell go ahead and rebuild the bottom end since you'll have it dissassembled. If your not wanting to spent a small fortune just go all motor and listen to the advice you recieved .

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    You don't neccesarily have to change out the pistons on a type R to go turbo. You just can't boost too high. The high compression with a small turbo, disco potato maybe, and a GOOD TUNE!!!!! would yield some nice results and still have great low end response. I myself wouldn't do it because I would be trying to keep making more power and I would pop it but if you could be satisfied with running a fairly low boost and having a nice little ride then go for it. I personally just think it's a sacrilege to boost a type R, but that's just me, there's plenty of people out there doing it with great results.

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    ^^^ yea like black r he makes pretty good power. stock block.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2ner
    Turbo would involve changing the pistons, and if ur gonna do that you might aswell go ahead and rebuild the bottom end since you'll have it dissassembled. If your not wanting to spent a small fortune just go all motor and listen to the advice you recieved .

    .....eventually, yes - but you'll be changing pistons soon enough allmotor. And sleeving, etc.

    if you ain't rich, turbo is the better option (unless the racing body sanctions for you prohibit forced induction).


    Quote Originally Posted by Tasuki_Civic
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    Very good points, but You wouldnt have to change pistons or anything in the bottom end unless you plannin on doing some hardcore driving. with 11.5:1 compression he wouldnt have to do anything really to the bottom end. And you dont have to be rich to go all motor

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    it will be quik no matter, if you have a low budget start with bolt on's, then go from the outside in.
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