Yeah your right 300whp is 300whp, i'm not denying that. But you could probably only run about 10lbs on 10.1 CR. You could run a hell of a lot more boost than 14psi on 8.1 CR. So which is faster 300whp @ 10psi with a 10.1CR, or 350whp @ 20psi @ 8.1 CR. If lower compression, higher boost is not better, then why do people that own DSMs, Supras, Evos, and other factory t/c cars go to a lower compression ratio when they upgrade their internals?

But I wasn't telling him to run a crazy low CR like 8.1. Your right in that aspect, for a street car 8.1 CR is too low unless you have a staged electronic boost controller, then I'd say go for it all day, cuz you could save gas on low boost setting, and run high boost for races. You could get a fairly decent boost in PSI. Just run a little rich on the low boost setting and you would could still keep from leaning out on the top end. That would be the best option for a street car IMHO. But I'd say 10.1 is a pretty good number for a street car, a little high for my taste, i'd rather run around 9.1, but 10.1 is still within reason. Anything over 10.1 is pretty much a waste, because you won't be able to run high enough boost to merit spending 3 grand on F/I.

But theres no point for the OP spend 3 grand getting a built block when he can achieve his HP goal very reliably without doing it. And yeah you can get 250whp without doing HEAD work, but why would you want too? HEAD porting is probably one of the biggest bang/buck options you can do, especially with F/I motors.

I know my ****, so please don't call me a moron. If you were going to call me a moron for anything you should of called me a moron for calling the LS engine a low compression engine, cuz 10.1 is definantly not low compression lol. I didn't know the LS CR off the top of my head, and the site that I read had it mislisted @ 9:1. And I definantly did not know the GSR had a lower CR than the LS, that's very unusual for a N/A car that is a perfomance version of another model.

By the way what model teg do you have?