boosted with stock internals

[patrick4588]

he is trying to keep between 250-300whp. there is absolutely no reason to put lower compression pistons in. in fact i would probably raise it a little if it was an ls. the bottom end of a low compression (<9:1) motor sucks. and for daily driving, you really need to have some sort of low end power. if he wants 25-300whp, then higher compression and lower boost is a better alternative. and i really dont care what other people have done; those links dont mean anything to me. and factory turbo cars come with lower compression because they are meant to run on the factory maps and not be retuned at all. you can take a gst eclipse from colorado to florida and it will still run fine. if you tune a car in florida at sea level and go to colorado, your tune will be off. get what im saying? compression below 9:1 is never needed. people go below, but its not necessary. you should read this thread. http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...2&TopicID=9762

if you want more details on my setup, pm me.

[nash8]

Never once did I say to put low compression pistons in, I said keep the LS block because it has lower compression pistons stock. There's no point for the OP to tear into his block and put LC pistons, or HC pistons in. That's a total waste of money IMHO for the HP goals he wants. And I will agree with you that for a DD street car, having middle of the road CR, between 9-10 is the best. I think 9.2 is about perfect.

That link is absolutely pointless. I know that if 2 cars are the same except for CR the higher CR will win. I never argued that. If I did then i'd be as bad as the guy who suggested DEI lol. But if you tuned those 2 cars that were listed exactly the same like the OP said, then I can almost gaurantee you that the car with the higher compression ratio will blow sooner than the one with the lower compression ratio.

The point that i'm trying to argue is that you will always be able to run more boost with lower compression pistons. You take a 10:1 car, and a 9:1 car, the lower compression ratio will be able to run more boost 100% of the time considering that both cars are tuned to their maximum abilities.

The bottem end of a car with a CR under 9 does not always suck, that is just not true at all whatsoever. The stock Volvo S60R CR is 8.5:1, and they get 295 ft/lbs of TQ @ 1950 RPM's. That's low end TQ numbers from a 2.5 inline 5 that mustang Gt's can only dream about. It's all about turbo size, and tuning.

Thanks for the CR numbers GAteg. The cite I looked at listed the GSR and LS numbers switched. I knew that couldn't be right.

33,000 miles on a car that was never supposed to be T/C is great. If you boost any car that wasn't factory T/C, it's not a matter of if it will blow but when. But if you drive it for 6 years then I'd say the OP would be pretty happy.

To the OP, don't tear into your block period. It is a total waste of money for what your looking for. The most important thing is to get your car tuned correctly, that will be the ultimate decision as to how well/long your car lasts as well as how much power you get.