boosted with stock internals

[JDMJAYDC2]

this seems to be the line everyone uses!! but i do know of one 22psi ls that raped cobra mustangs and evo's but wanted to know if anyone else has one and if so how long did it last? i just saw a pretty mean b16 in a rex that has stock internals that was damn fast on 8psi so im wondering why build it if im not trying to be the next SPOOLIN just want around 300 or so

[hondaowner]

dude do what ya want man ive known some to be on stock internals running like a champ forever but ive known some to blow up and some whho build it and blow up it just depends on parts and how ya treat it...if this helps any just my opinion

[JDMJAYDC2]

^^^totally agree with you ive just seen 2 guys one dump so much money in his motor and another one with just a bone fresh motor with a turbo kit he put together and just smash on the guy with the built and tuned motor so im wondering why build it

[superboost]

boosted and sprayed on stock internals...but its not a honda

[Vteckidd]

10-12psi MAX on stock internals if you want it to LAST.

If you dont care, run 20-22psi on it, but be prepared for it to go BOOM.

Cast pistons can only take so much, and thats usually 100whp over stock before they go

[JDMJAYDC2]

ok so whats the highest hp you can expect with 10-12 psi cause alot of ppl lie about what they are running number wise or they try and use their whp as their actual hp i know you know cause you have seen or done it all to a honda.

[NAG2I]

depends on the motor about what kind numbers you will get
and just cause someone built there motor doesnt mean there gonna be faster then someone who didnt
depends on a lot of things

[scttydb411]

i've pushed 15psi+ on my stock y7 on the stock mapsensor, but it doesn't mean i would recommend it to everyone or continously run it daily myself.

think about it, you're talking about a motor that honda never intended to turbo. since it's honda, they over-engineer a bit, but do you honestly think stock rods and cast pistons really can handle 250-300 MORE hp than the motor came with? that would mean a stock rods/pistons b16 making 380-430whp.

is it possible? sure. reliably for a long period of time? probably not. if you're willing to be the one to show the world that it can truly be done then go for it. everyone told me i was crazy to boost the sohc 5 years ago much less push a motor that makes 85whp over 200whp. the thing is i was willing to take that chance and not blame anyone if it blew up.

recommendations to get what you describe would be to boost a gsr and drop it in a light chassis. rods and pistons would give you much more flexibility and would keep you from having to sleeve it unless you wanted to push more than 450-500whp.

[chituntang]

light car with a not so normal engine is probably better than a heavy car with a faster engine (Unless you are going all out and you only battle on a dyno). Just remember this

fast and cheap = no reliability
reliability and fast = no cheap
cheap and reliability = no fast

It is all about how you want to push your luck. You want to take you chances to have you car goes down on the highway everything you are on it?

[patrick4588]

japan4racing had a stock gsr boosted for 2 years and he beat the hell out of it. went 12.2 @ 116 as well. all on a basemap. i blew mine up after 6 weeks. just depends.

[hmongxcuz]

light car with a not so normal engine is probably better than a heavy car with a faster engine (Unless you are going all out and you only battle on a dyno). Just remember this

fast and cheap = no reliability
reliability and fast = no cheap
cheap and reliability = no fast

It is all about how you want to push your luck. You want to take you chances to have you car goes down on the highway everything you are on it?

[vancem3m3]

scotty tuned me to 270whp 218tq bone stock internals @10psi i ran 14.03 at 106mph thats fast enough for me as long as i beat a srt-4 or gt mustang.

[osiriskidd]

just dont drive balls to the walls

[JDMJAYDC2]

ok well this is what im shooting for 300hp on a ls with a built ls tranny i have several builds in mind already that will get me this number easily but if i can get to or around my goal of 300 without ripping apart the whole block and replacing just about everything then why do it? it will be a DD so 10-12psi is just fine with me

[patrick4588]

300whp is not really attainable on the ls as easily as a gsr. just an fyi

[patrick4588]

scotty tuned me to 270whp 218tq bone stock internals @10psi i ran 14.03 at 106mph thats fast enough for me as long as i beat a srt-4 or gt mustang.

thats really bad for 270whp. you should be mid to low 13's all day long. with a 106 trap speed, you could probably get close to high 12's on slicks

[JDMJAYDC2]

300whp is not really attainable on the ls as easily as a gsr. just an fyi

i meant as in the builds that i have saved on my computer 250-300 im a happy camper as my car is going to be one of a kind so im not really trying to run super high numbers i will make a build thread on this site as well as the one i have going on team-integra.net to make more sense of what i am doing mike already knows. im just trying to get an idea of what i would need as i have builds that range from 2000 to 8000 im just trying to get a best bang for my buck type deal if you catch my drift

[patrick4588]

spend 3000 dollars and have a fully built block so you can make as much horsepower as you want. drop another 3000 on a reliable turbo kit. now you are 6000 in and have an extremely fast daily driver. done

[nash8]

Keep the LS block, lower compression ratio will allow you to make more power. A low compression high boost engine, will beat a high compression low boost engine most of the time. You get a good turbo kit, port and polish the heads, full exhaust, proper fuel and timing mods, with about 15-18 lbs a boost and you should be in the 250-300whp no problem, depending on how aggresive your tune is. Should be pretty reliable for a DD depending on tune as well. It's all about tuning, that's why some people can run 22lbs and not blow a motor, and some people can run 10lbs and blow a motor real quick.

[patrick4588]

Keep the LS block, lower compression ratio will allow you to make more power. A low compression high boost engine, will beat a high compression low boost engine most of the time. You get a good turbo kit, port and polish the heads, full exhaust, proper fuel and timing mods, with about 15-18 lbs a boost and you should be in the 250-300whp no problem, depending on how aggresive your tune is. Should be pretty reliable for a DD depending on tune as well. It's all about tuning, that's why some people can run 22lbs and not blow a motor, and some people can run 10lbs and blow a motor real quick.

you are a moron. please dont listen to this guy. first things first.
A) low compression on high boost is not better than higher compression on low boost. if you can make 300whp on 9psi with a 10:1 ratio or 300whp on 14psi with a 8:1 ratio, guess which will be faster? the high compression since it will not only spool faster, but not have to spool as much. your an idiot for that comment.

B)um there is only one head. not "heads". and absolutely no headwork is needed to make 250-300whp.

to the real world. get your **** straight before you post.

[bRiAnMcIvIcS]

Lol. Patrick knows his $h!t.

[JDMJAYDC2]

well patrick do you have any builds of this 250-300 whp motor that you speak of i am always intrested in looking a new builds as im already too much $$$ in to turn around

[joeblo]

patrick is right. but, as for the head...a stock ls head will limit you but for what your looking for you will be fine. ive been boosted at 10psi on my ls integra for about 2 years on a conservative tune with chromepro and it runs like a champion. good luck man. boost is better. i love the ls motor for its torque. remember turbo sizing is important as well.

[patrick4588]

well patrick do you have any builds of this 250-300 whp motor that you speak of i am always intrested in looking a new builds as im already too much $$$ in to turn around

do i what?

[nash8]

Yeah your right 300whp is 300whp, i'm not denying that. But you could probably only run about 10lbs on 10.1 CR. You could run a hell of a lot more boost than 14psi on 8.1 CR. So which is faster 300whp @ 10psi with a 10.1CR, or 350whp @ 20psi @ 8.1 CR. If lower compression, higher boost is not better, then why do people that own DSMs, Supras, Evos, and other factory t/c cars go to a lower compression ratio when they upgrade their internals?

But I wasn't telling him to run a crazy low CR like 8.1. Your right in that aspect, for a street car 8.1 CR is too low unless you have a staged electronic boost controller, then I'd say go for it all day, cuz you could save gas on low boost setting, and run high boost for races. You could get a fairly decent boost in PSI. Just run a little rich on the low boost setting and you would could still keep from leaning out on the top end. That would be the best option for a street car IMHO. But I'd say 10.1 is a pretty good number for a street car, a little high for my taste, i'd rather run around 9.1, but 10.1 is still within reason. Anything over 10.1 is pretty much a waste, because you won't be able to run high enough boost to merit spending 3 grand on F/I.

But theres no point for the OP spend 3 grand getting a built block when he can achieve his HP goal very reliably without doing it. And yeah you can get 250whp without doing HEAD work, but why would you want too? HEAD porting is probably one of the biggest bang/buck options you can do, especially with F/I motors.

I know my ****, so please don't call me a moron. If you were going to call me a moron for anything you should of called me a moron for calling the LS engine a low compression engine, cuz 10.1 is definantly not low compression lol. I didn't know the LS CR off the top of my head, and the site that I read had it mislisted @ 9:1. And I definantly did not know the GSR had a lower CR than the LS, that's very unusual for a N/A car that is a perfomance version of another model.

By the way what model teg do you have?

[nash8]

And he wanted to know what the cheapest build you could give him that would give him 250-300whp reliably.

[patrick4588]

the ls does have lower compression than the gsr. i was not saying it had a 10:1 ratio. i just used that ratio as an example. and btw, you can run a hella lot more boost than 10psi with a 10:1 ratio. all you need is a competent tuner. running lower compression just leaves more room for tuning error. anything below 9:1 is too low. period. if you look at most drag cars, they run decently high compression ratios. they can do that because they run strictly on race gas and can keep it from detonating. that low compression is better for boost is an internet myth. oh and i have a turbo gsr.

[nash8]

Anything below 9:1 is too low, so your calling all the DSM guys that upgrade internals, and go 8.5:1 idiots? Low compression is better for boost is not an internet myth lol. If it was, why wouldn't factory turbocharged cars come with 10:1+ CR's. I will agree with you that running lower compression does allow more tuning error, but it also lets you run more boost. Of course every car is different, and you have to find the sweet spot, between CR and PSI. But in general higher boost, lower CR is better. Not saying you can't make good power with a high CR and medium boost. I'm just saying it's safer, and in the long run you will be able to make more power with a high boost, LC engine.

Look at it this way, what gives you more power, 7 lbs of boost, or raising your engine's CR 7 pts? Which one will be more reliable? In any case, my point to the OP was that he didn't have to tear into his block to achieve his HP goals reliably.

http://www.turbomagazine.com/feature...ica/index.html
What CR is this car running? I don't know about you but I don't consider 8:1 high. And why would they go through all that trouble to reach 8:1, if it was not superior to 10.6:1?

That's not a turbo teg, This is a turbo teg. J/k
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/02...gra/index.html
That is one bad ass 4 banger lol, and I dunno about you, but 7:1 is not a very high CR to me.

What is the compression ratio of the LS/GS vx GSR vs type R. I've been to 3 different sites and have got 3 different answers for all of them.

BTW, a turbo GSR is a very nice car. A Turbo Teg is probably my F/I honda, besides maybe a T/C S2000, but that's like comparing apples to oranges. What CR are you running? What all do you have done to it? What Turbo you running? How much power you putting down?

[khailon]

boost an ls

[GAtegs]

LS compression (stock) is 9.2:1.

It will take about 16-18psi to make 300whp on a stock LS.

[GAtegs]

GSR - 10:1

ITR - 10.6:1

[patrick4588]

he is trying to keep between 250-300whp. there is absolutely no reason to put lower compression pistons in. in fact i would probably raise it a little if it was an ls. the bottom end of a low compression (<9:1) motor sucks. and for daily driving, you really need to have some sort of low end power. if he wants 25-300whp, then higher compression and lower boost is a better alternative. and i really dont care what other people have done; those links dont mean anything to me. and factory turbo cars come with lower compression because they are meant to run on the factory maps and not be retuned at all. you can take a gst eclipse from colorado to florida and it will still run fine. if you tune a car in florida at sea level and go to colorado, your tune will be off. get what im saying? compression below 9:1 is never needed. people go below, but its not necessary. you should read this thread. http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...2&TopicID=9762

if you want more details on my setup, pm me.

[GAtegs]

Jermaine, if you are going to do it, save until you can do it right the first time and never again. If you boost the stock LS you will blow up. It is not a matter of if, it's when. It may, however, run 6 years or 6 days, you never know. I ran my LS (pistons/rods) at about 315whp for about 33,000 miles. I turned up the boost and 1000 miles later it blew up.

[japan4racing]

japan4racing had a stock gsr boosted for 2 years and he beat the hell out of it. went 12.2 @ 116 as well. all on a basemap. i blew mine up after 6 weeks. just depends.

true story...1993 dx 4 door (2670lbs w/ driver)
+ 120,000+ mile stock gsr long block and trans + 60 trim+ 10 psi = low 12's and lots of fun!

[suprapower]

u can keep the stock internals and run a healthy 10 to about 14 or 15 psi. run anymore and ull destroy the motor. u just gotta know how to maintain it and keep ur motor healthy. personally i wouldnt run boost with stock internals but thats just me.

[nash8]

Never once did I say to put low compression pistons in, I said keep the LS block because it has lower compression pistons stock. There's no point for the OP to tear into his block and put LC pistons, or HC pistons in. That's a total waste of money IMHO for the HP goals he wants. And I will agree with you that for a DD street car, having middle of the road CR, between 9-10 is the best. I think 9.2 is about perfect.

That link is absolutely pointless. I know that if 2 cars are the same except for CR the higher CR will win. I never argued that. If I did then i'd be as bad as the guy who suggested DEI lol. But if you tuned those 2 cars that were listed exactly the same like the OP said, then I can almost gaurantee you that the car with the higher compression ratio will blow sooner than the one with the lower compression ratio.

The point that i'm trying to argue is that you will always be able to run more boost with lower compression pistons. You take a 10:1 car, and a 9:1 car, the lower compression ratio will be able to run more boost 100% of the time considering that both cars are tuned to their maximum abilities.

The bottem end of a car with a CR under 9 does not always suck, that is just not true at all whatsoever. The stock Volvo S60R CR is 8.5:1, and they get 295 ft/lbs of TQ @ 1950 RPM's. That's low end TQ numbers from a 2.5 inline 5 that mustang Gt's can only dream about. It's all about turbo size, and tuning.

Thanks for the CR numbers GAteg. The cite I looked at listed the GSR and LS numbers switched. I knew that couldn't be right.

33,000 miles on a car that was never supposed to be T/C is great. If you boost any car that wasn't factory T/C, it's not a matter of if it will blow but when. But if you drive it for 6 years then I'd say the OP would be pretty happy.

To the OP, don't tear into your block period. It is a total waste of money for what your looking for. The most important thing is to get your car tuned correctly, that will be the ultimate decision as to how well/long your car lasts as well as how much power you get.

[-S Double C-]

14-16lbs with a nice sized turbo and a good ass tune will get you 300whp BUT your risking your motor coming apart sooner or later. I would at least get a new head gasket and arp headstuds if your gonna run anything over 12psi.

[dhumps]

most people i know that boost their motors that dont come with a stock turbo build it at least a little bit just so it lasts longer.

[japan4racing]

this thread makes me lol

[nash8]

me 2