Wiretuck and Brake tuck

[YoItsCarlie]

95 Civic - engine bay ready to be prepped, have yet to pull brake lines until i have made up my mind about the brake and clutch lines

what are you guys doing about your charcoal canister?
I have looked at a lot of builds and went through the pain of doing stainless lines last time. when it comes to the brake lines, has anyone thought of going braided steel with -3an fittings then to an -3an to m10 fitting for the rubber lines/prop valve/master cylinder?
What about the clutch line and hiding it?

working on prepping the bay now. pulling the plugs, lableing them, depinning them to it where i would like to run them...

Pics appreciated.

[YoItsCarlie]

XRP -4 Male to M10 x 1.25 Male Inverted Flare - Steel - 422504

Here is the link to the fitting i am looking at, i would need 8 of theses male to male, and to male to female for the rear steel lines.

[1civic]

Why re-engineer something that works properly from the factory, I mean did all these engineer's do testing to see if it's safe?

Do you even know why the brake lines, etc are run the way they are?

Waste of time and money IMO!

[Drummerboy]

I haven't got that far into my tuck, but as far as the clutch line goes, just use a SS braided line ran through the firewall. Or even go around the fender well and through the front end to the slave cylinder.

[YoItsCarlie]

Why re-engineer something that works properly from the factory, I mean did all these engineer's do testing to see if it's safe?

Do you even know why the brake lines, etc are run the way they are?

Waste of time and money IMO!

your over opinionated and a troll. meet me in person and we will discuss further.

[YoItsCarlie]

I haven't got that far into my tuck, but as far as the clutch line goes, just use a SS braided line ran through the firewall. Or even go around the fender well and through the front end to the slave cylinder.

i was discussing the price i would have if it were to do al braided, and it comes to 210. a kid on hondatech linked to chase bays for 400. wow. big difference. ill end up running the clutch line through the passenger hole for the wire tuck and through the fender. seems the best option for now.

[1civic]

your over opinionated and a troll. meet me in person and we will discuss further.

Answer the fucking question prick!!

Do you even understand why the engineers make the brake lines look the way they do?

[1civic]

Your OP has "FAILURE" written all over it!

No need to carry on.. SMH!


Later!!

[B18c1Turboed]

I ran all new Ss brake lines to all 4 brake pedals.I wanted to remove my abs so was easier doing new lines. For clutch line I ran a 3an from master cylinder and thru frame rail and put a 3an fitting on frame rail and made another line from frame rail to clutch. Wa alot of work but cheap since I have like 1500 feet of 3an that was given to me for free.

[YoItsCarlie]

Your OP has "FAILURE" written all over it!

No need to carry on.. SMH!


Later!!

THE REASON BRAKE LINES A RAN THE WAY THEY ARE IS TO PROMOTE THE FASTEST MANUFACTURING PROCESS.

in the hydraulic world, as long as rigidity is not sacrificed and flow does not cause capitations, then it is more than acceptable to run the lines in any fashion as to not cause or receive interference from other components.

your lines must then sustain the amount of pressure applied.

care forme to elaborate on pressure and flow dynamics?


carried on.... troll.

[YoItsCarlie]

i have ran ss in the past, but im not up for bending, flaring, and fighting with interference from other components under the dash. did you use concave m10 fittings to 3an lines? i believe the ones i posted earlier are convex.

[B18c1Turboed]

M10x1.25 to 3an. I belive it's 1.25 or 1.50 I forget it's been so long

[1civic]

THE REASON BRAKE LINES A RAN THE WAY THEY ARE IS TO PROMOTE THE FASTEST MANUFACTURING PROCESS.

in the hydraulic world, as long as rigidity is not sacrificed and flow does not cause capitations, then it is more than acceptable to run the lines in any fashion as to not cause or receive interference from other components.

your lines must then sustain the amount of pressure applied.

care forme to elaborate on pressure and flow dynamics?


carried on.... troll.

You make it easy for me to insult you...LOL, keep posting!

I was asking you to educate me on the pressure and flow dynamics, but you only stated that the pressure should be equal.. Would you care to correct that statement?

[1civic]

People need to understand that you can't just replace, and move some lines.. So enlighten us on the steps to do a correct tuck without have a brake failure, and this time don't quote off the internet!

[B18c1Turboed]

No offense man. I have done it to 3 of my cars and never has a stopping problem. How much more clear does it need to be? It never affected my stopping. And trust me at 700hp + I need all the stopping power I can have. As long as you have a proportion valve the brake fluid will get divided how it need to be. It's not rocket science or as difficult as you wanna make it.

[1civic]

No offense man. I have done it to 3 of my cars and never has a stopping problem. How much more clear does it need to be? It never affected my stopping. And trust me at 700hp + I need all the stopping power I can have. As long as you have a proportion valve the brake fluid will get divided how it need to be. It's not rocket science or as difficult as you wanna make it.

Maybe you had enough sense to install the oem proportioning valve inside the car, maybe you even took the time to measure the lines.. But I'm pretty sure Honda engineers know more than you or him..

IMO is makes no sense, he wants form, not function!! Thats my point, FUCK FORM, i like function!!

[Echonova]

IMO is makes no sense, he wants form, not function!! Thats my point, FUCK FORM, i like function!!

So this thread is about what you like?

[B18c1Turboed]

Hell no I didnt measure no lines. Brake work by pressure not on the amount of oil it can hold in the line. Look at it like this.the brakes work when u apply the pedal which pushes the oil into the caliper to close. Why does it matter how much fluid is in the line when it's pushing the same amount of presure?

[1civic]

So this thread is about what you like?

No, but I can post my opinion just like you can post your smart-ass comments!

[1civic]

Hell no I didnt measure no lines. Brake work by pressure not on the amount of oil it can hold in the line. Look at it like this.the brakes work when u apply the pedal which pushes the oil into the caliper to close. Why does it matter how much fluid is in the line when it's pushing the same amount of presure?

But see you are not understanding how the Honda brake system works then.. Honda works Diagonally, not front to rear, like you would think.. The lines where designed that way for a reason!

I'm no engineer, and I could careless about whats on your race car!!

[1civic]

Now, your simple setups may work... BUT will they perform as well or better then the OEM design??



EDIT:

I will add that it's not as simple as you make it out to be, to much height, to much of a bend, etc will effect the system, not to mention if the lines are not mounted correctly then they can break!

The length may not play a big role, but the proportioning, and the pressure in the line does play a factor...

[Echonova]

No, but I can post my opinion just like you can post your smart-ass comments!

Wow, you sure put me in my place!!!

[1civic]

Wow, you sure put me in my place!!!

As you did me.. Good Job!!

[B18c1Turboed]

I have done the same setup in my street cars and brakes perfectly. I guess it's easy to sit behind a computer and think it won't work. But I'm telling you 100% it will work. If you use the oem proportion valve it's will work like stock. I think your over complicating something that is so easy and proven to work!

[1civic]

I have done the same setup in my street cars and brakes perfectly. I guess it's easy to sit behind a computer and think it won't work. But I'm telling you 100% it will work. If you use the oem proportion valve it's will work like stock. I think your over complicating something that is so easy and proven to work!

Has nothing to do with sitting behind a computer and questioning.. It has to do with the safety, and reliability of the brake system!!

[1civic]

If you trust the products, and you feel everything is mounted and run properly, then so be it.. Maybe you did it right, and you have the correct volume, the correct purporting, etc.. Do you really think it will last 20+ years trouble free like an OEM setup? Be realistic!!

[B18c1Turboed]

Have you ever tried upgrading your lines? Mine ate reliable and I would do a stop test again any of your cars to prove a point. Its not rocket science man. Shoot even with my drag car I removed the proportion valve and have front brake lines going directly to calipers and I haver had a single people stopping at end of the track. So even tough some of your points might be valid they are mute since I can prove it works!

[B18c1Turboed]

For wire tuck questions look here:

♠ Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ♠ - Honda-Tech

[1civic]

But in 20yrs can you prove it works?

I have ran countless brake lines in my time, A drag car is not a street car, so void that statement..

This argument was not towards you, but it seems you involved your-self so I will continue to stress that function, and reliability is my key point..


p.s

My point is for the Noobs who wanna jump on the bandwagon, they need to understand that you can't mis and match shit.. You can't cut corners, it must been done correctly in order for everything to work properly!!

[B18c1Turboed]

I have said numerous of times I have done a setup In a street and drag cars. It's not that I'm trying to make this about me I'm just trying to stop your from put false info out there. 1st reliable I would bet money mine will last 20+ years. It's all in the material that you use. I have seen plenty of Honda line breck so with all Honda engineer why does it still happen? To each there own I guess. But real talk who's really going to own a Honda for 20 years?

I ran goodridge brake lines for all my brakes. I guarntee you they will last linger then metal lines.that eventually will rust and crack

[1civic]

Now your trying to sell something.. Your ability and the next guys are not the same..

If you wanna educate people then make a "How To" thread so people can understand what it takes to be done properly!!

Don't make it you vs me.. SMH!!

[B18c1Turboed]

I'm not trying to sell anything. Shoot I hate working on cars now. I posted a link to Honda-tech (above) if they can understand what people are doing then they don't need to be doing it anyways. I'm not making this a me vs you I'm just pointing out what does and is proven to work.

[1civic]

I'm not trying to sell anything. Shoot I hate working on cars now. I posted a link to Honda-tech (above) if they can understand what people are doing then they don't need to be doing it anyways. I'm not making this a me vs you I'm just pointing out what does and is proven to work.

Proven for you, but not everyone needs to jump into wiring, and brake tucks.. If you have a way that works then cool, I know how it works, but I'm not going to tell some young kid that its easy..

People need to research what works, look for "how to" threads, etc.. I'm pretty sure you have seen the crap that people have done!

[YoItsCarlie]

the question was on if there were any downfalls, not on whether i was going to go through with the tuck. it will be proper. and in your ASSumptions being a troll that you are, you asspumed that i would not reinstal the prop valve.

now your arguing "leave it alone"


As far as the honda tech link, i have contributed to it with some fashioned parts that i made, as well as brackets and location, but now im questioning a faster ad more feasible way for anyonbe to do it without spending 400 on the chase bays kit. i believe i will be relocating the prop valve to the area dedicated to the windshield wipers, but not definate as i have not had time to measure and dissassemble to that point.

Then you assume on my capabilities, about not jumping into a tuck of any sort. ill take your opinion for nothing, as i have had a great distaste for your travelings on the interweb. you wont get buthurt here, show up in person and have this discussion. im off fulton industrial right now. 6785683113..... not too far from douglasville.

[Elbow]

the question was on if there were any downfalls, not on whether i was going to go through with the tuck. it will be proper. and in your ASSumptions being a troll that you are, you asspumed that i would not reinstal the prop valve.

now your arguing "leave it alone"


As far as the honda tech link, i have contributed to it with some fashioned parts that i made, as well as brackets and location, but now im questioning a faster ad more feasible way for anyonbe to do it without spending 400 on the chase bays kit. i believe i will be relocating the prop valve to the area dedicated to the windshield wipers, but not definate as i have not had time to measure and dissassemble to that point.

Then you assume on my capabilities, about not jumping into a tuck of any sort. ill take your opinion for nothing, as i have had a great distaste for your travelings on the interweb. you wont get buthurt here, show up in person and have this discussion. im off fulton industrial right now. 6785683113..... not too far from douglasville.

Thug life.

[oreign]

I'm no engineer

then shut the fuck up.


impacted for you.

[xero_xero]

Yoitscarlie is a mechanical engineer and machinist for a firearms manufacturer.

[1civic]

the question was on if there were any downfalls, not on whether i was going to go through with the tuck. it will be proper. and in your ASSumptions being a troll that you are, you asspumed that i would not reinstal the prop valve.

now your arguing "leave it alone"


As far as the honda tech link, i have contributed to it with some fashioned parts that i made, as well as brackets and location, but now im questioning a faster ad more feasible way for anyonbe to do it without spending 400 on the chase bays kit. i believe i will be relocating the prop valve to the area dedicated to the windshield wipers, but not definate as i have not had time to measure and dissassemble to that point.

Then you assume on my capabilities, about not jumping into a tuck of any sort. ill take your opinion for nothing, as i have had a great distaste for your travelings on the interweb. you wont get buthurt here, show up in person and have this discussion. im off fulton industrial right now. 6785683113..... not too far from douglasville.

Not that I care to know who you are, or where you work, SMH, And then you follow 1civic in the KillsForum? Cool Story Bro!!

[1civic]

95 Civic - engine bay ready to be prepped, have yet to pull brake lines until i have made up my mind about the brake and clutch lines

what are you guys doing about your charcoal canister?
I have looked at a lot of builds and went through the pain of doing stainless lines last time. when it comes to the brake lines, has anyone thought of going braided steel with -3an fittings then to an -3an to m10 fitting for the rubber lines/prop valve/master cylinder?
What about the clutch line and hiding it?

working on prepping the bay now. pulling the plugs, lableing them, depinning them to it where i would like to run them...

Pics appreciated.

You posted this not me... Are you not asking for help? But yet you know the answers, then you get butt hurt because of my response?

My advice would be not to post on the forums asking for help, but then later claim to have the answers! SMH...


Later!!!

[Echonova]

One day, I will be as big of a douchebag as 1civic. Gonna take time to work myself up to that level, but Imma try.


First order of business is to drive to a spot in the middle of nowhere and film myself 30 minutes after calling someone out @ 2:35am and them not showing up even though it would be a 1 hour drive on a good day and say how I'm waiting on their pussy ass to show up.

Stage II to follow.