gsr wiring tucking question

[Go_Fast]

i extended most of the wires in my bay everything is working but the dizzy isn't sparking. what would be the best way to go about checking which wires arent connected/ getting enough power?

does anyone have a wiring diagram or a link to one i can check out on the interenet. also when im checking for voltage can someone tell me what ball park of electricity im looking for... thanks!

[blown_ss]

From what I have read about wire tucking is that you shouldn't extend any wires at all

[Go_Fast]

i extended the ones on the left side of the bay by the dizzy. about 5 plugs

[1civic]

The Fuck!! Really dude, you tucked a harness and don't know how to use a multi-meter?? Come on now!!


Sorry, just funny to me...




Gotta sign up to download.

http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/

[Go_Fast]

The Fuck!! Really dude, you tucked a harness and don't know how to use a multi-meter?? Come on now!!


Sorry, just funny to me...

its not that i cant use a multi meter im just wondering should i have the key turned twice then try to read it? should i have someone crank it while i try to read it? thats what im wondering about so i dont mess anything else up.

thanks for the link. anyone else please still chime in



Gotta sign up to download.

http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/[/QUOTE]

[1civic]

EDIT!!

Here is a simple check!!

Using a test light, clamp the alligator clip on the positive terminal of your battery and touch the probe to the negative side of you coil.. Have someone crank the engine over and look for a flashing light (interrupted ground). If it is interupted, replace the coil... If it does not flash, replace the ICM.

Also for good measures check fuses...


And because I'm lazy and hate typing here is a link...

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1430824

[Go_Fast]

The Fuck!! Really dude, you tucked a harness and don't know how to use a multi-meter?? Come on now!!


Sorry, just funny to me...

its not that i cant use a multi meter im just wondering should i have the key turned twice then try to read it? should i have someone crank it while i try to read it? thats what im wondering about so i dont mess anything else up.

thanks for the link. anyone else please still chime in

[Go_Fast]

thanks for the help

im not really worried about the coil right now i'd rather test the wires on the harness through the plug and see if ther getting the right power. i need to know what i need to do to send current to those wires

[*EFilliated*]

check for resistance at each wire with key OFF. OL will indicate a break in the wire. if there is resistance at each wire you can eliminate that and start looking somewhere else. hope that helps

[Go_Fast]

check for resistance at each wire with key OFF. OL will indicate a break in the wire. if there is resistance at each wire you can eliminate that and start looking somewhere else. hope that helps

so basically i should start off by checking continuity in each wire.. thanks for the help

[*EFilliated*]

so basically i should start off by checking continuity in each wire.. thanks for the help

[Black4DrEK]

If you cut any wires, Your supposed to Label them with Blue tape. This would'nt happen if so.

[Go_Fast]

If you cut any wires, Your supposed to Label them with Blue tape. This would'nt happen if so.

im not sure what difference that would've made. it seems the wires arent getting power even though i soldered and heat shrinked the extensions. i started unwrapping stuff and checking for continuity and everything seems to be connected fine so far.

im starting to wonder if my alternator is going bad and if thats why it didnt start. im getting cel code 15 and when i try to crank the car it sounds like a star wars laser and the battery light flashes i just need to test a few more things

[*EFilliated*]

ok so you have a problem with the ignition output signal circuit. step1: disconnect the 2P connector on the distributor, its the plug with only 2 wires. turn the ignition to the ON position. Measure voltage, take your black DMM lead and take it to a known good ground, take your red lead and take it to the BLACK/YELLOW wire on that 2P connector. IS THERE BATTERY VOLTAGE?

if NO: repair open in BLACK/YELLOW wire between the 2P connector and ignition switch
if YES: POST YOUR RESULTS SO WE CAN THEN MOVE ON TO CHECKING YOUR Ignition Control Module

[Black4DrEK]

im not sure what difference that would've made. it seems the wires arent getting power even though i soldered and heat shrinked the extensions. i started unwrapping stuff and checking for continuity and everything seems to be connected fine so far.

im starting to wonder if my alternator is going bad and if thats why it didnt start. im getting cel code 15 and when i try to crank the car it sounds like a star wars laser and the battery light flashes i just need to test a few more things

Everything worked before you did the "tuck" correct?

[Go_Fast]

ok so you have a problem with the ignition output signal circuit. step1: disconnect the 2P connector on the distributor, its the plug with only 2 wires. turn the ignition to the ON position. Measure voltage, take your black DMM lead and take it to a known good ground, take your red lead and take it to the BLACK/YELLOW wire on that 2P connector. IS THERE BATTERY VOLTAGE?

if NO: repair open in BLACK/YELLOW wire between the 2P connector and ignition switch
if YES: POST YOUR RESULTS SO WE CAN THEN MOVE ON TO CHECKING YOUR Ignition Control Module

after i started checking my wires yesterday and they were connected i decided to just put my spare harness in (uncut) and its still not starting and is still giving me CEL code 15. this is all i've had time to try i'll check the 2p connector soon.

[Go_Fast]

Everything worked before you did the "tuck" correct?

yeah but the battery was also disconnected for 2 days during the tuck. my break light switch fell off the other day leaving ONLY the break light on for about 3 hrs and the car was completly dead.

i dont see what point your trying to prove. what would i have written on the label? " this is the piece of blue wire i put in between the YLW/BLK wire to make the YLW/BLK wire longer"

[1civic]

yeah but the battery was also disconnected for 2 days during the tuck. my break light switch fell off the other day leaving ONLY the break light on for about 3 hrs and the car was completly dead.

i dont see what point your trying to prove. what would i have written on the label? " this is the piece of blue wire i put in between the YLW/BLK wire to make the YLW/BLK wire longer"

Well If i was you Mr. Smart-Guy, I would charge the Batt. and be sure that you have the correct grounds... Just my 2cents, but what do I know..

[*EFilliated*]

Well check that 2p connector, and if u get voltage then your Ignition Control Module most likely needs to be replaced. Test another dizzy if possible.

after i started checking my wires yesterday and they were connected i decided to just put my spare harness in (uncut) and its still not starting and is still giving me CEL code 15. this is all i've had time to try i'll check the 2p connector soon.

[98blackcivic]

was it worth it?

[1civic]

Well check that 2p connector, and if u get voltage then your Ignition Control Module most likely needs to be replaced. Test another dizzy if possible.

Hmmm, think I said that already, but he will learn one day!!

[*EFilliated*]

yeah but the battery was also disconnected for 2 days during the tuck. my break light switch fell off the other day leaving ONLY the break light on for about 3 hrs and the car was completly dead.

i dont see what point your trying to prove. what would i have written on the label? " this is the piece of blue wire i put in between the YLW/BLK wire to make the YLW/BLK wire longer"

LMAO a lot of help some people can be

[*EFilliated*]

If ur asking bout a wire tuck, well worth it if done right. Full wire tuck on my Hatch. NICE

was it worth it?

[Go_Fast]

was it worth it?

yeah it was easy enough

[Go_Fast]

ok so you have a problem with the ignition output signal circuit. step1: disconnect the 2P connector on the distributor, its the plug with only 2 wires. turn the ignition to the ON position. Measure voltage, take your black DMM lead and take it to a known good ground, take your red lead and take it to the BLACK/YELLOW wire on that 2P connector. IS THERE BATTERY VOLTAGE?

if NO: repair open in BLACK/YELLOW wire between the 2P connector and ignition switch
if YES: POST YOUR RESULTS SO WE CAN THEN MOVE ON TO CHECKING YOUR Ignition Control Module

i just checked i got no voltage on the 2p.

Hmmm, think I said that already, but he will learn one day!!

i never said you were wrong i just didnt get to that yet

[*EFilliated*]

If u don't see voltage with the ignition on at the yellow/black wire on the 2p connector you have a short between that wire and the ignition switch under the steering wheel. Start tracing back to find your open. Make sure all fuses are good first, fuses may be linked to this problem even if the name isn't marked on the fuse cover.

i just checked i got no voltage on the 2p.


i never said you were wrong i just didnt get to that yet

[Go_Fast]

If u don't see voltage with the ignition on at the yellow/black wire on the 2p connector you have a short between that wire and the ignition switch under the steering wheel. Start tracing back to find your open. Make sure all fuses are good first, fuses may be linked to this problem even if the name isn't marked on the fuse cover.

alright ill check out the fuses thanks for the help

[Go_Fast]

i just checked all the fuses and there good.
i checked continuity from the ignition to the plug under the dash, and from from the dizzy plug to the firewall and its all good.

[Black4DrEK]

If everything worked fine before you did all this, its a mistake you made with wiring. Your POSITIVE the wires are correct? You didnt mix them up??

[Go_Fast]

If everything worked fine before you did all this, its a mistake you made with wiring. Your POSITIVE the wires are correct? You didnt mix them up??

when i did the tuck the ONLY wire i was concerned about was aound the 7p wires. when i unwrapped the seven wires there was a brown wire that wasn't apart of then 7p wires, it was just wrapped around the 7 wires. half on the brown wire wasnt insulated and it was wrapped around the 7 wires that go to the 7p plug. it was wrapped around the wire like a spiral metal strip. after extending the wires i twisted the fibers into one, heat shrinked it, and soldered it back to the brown wire.

but either way i replaced the harness with the one i had before and its still not starting.

fuel pump and starter are fine. i pulled out a spark wire and plug and tried to spark it and got no spark

[Black4DrEK]

Your tried another stock harness and still no go? tried another Dizzy? Grounds all good.. I mean shit, You are runnin out of options buddy.. hah

[Go_Fast]

Your tried another stock harness and still no go? tried another Dizzy? Grounds all good.. I mean shit, You are runnin out of options buddy.. hah

i know haha im thinkin buy another dizzy and alternator.

[*EFilliated*]

Alternator would have nothing to do with ur problem. Dizzy mayb, try and test another one

i know haha im thinkin buy another dizzy and alternator.

[Go_Fast]

thanks for all the help