Symptoms of a blown motor?

**Professor** · 10-04-2006, 01:06 PM

Hey guys, here's to start off with some references...

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1769305

That's where I left off from now...

Ever since the ticking, and the shutting off of the motor out of nowhere, my car is just sitting there now. Everytime i would try to crank it up, it'd go nowhere, no turning over, no trying to crank, nothing. What's everyone's take in this? Thanks guys, appreciate the help.

**The Stiffler** · 10-04-2006, 02:01 PM

check compression. if there's none. ur motor's gone.

**The Stiffler** · 10-04-2006, 02:01 PM

i think, but dont hold me to my word...never had a motor go out on me before

**green91** · 10-04-2006, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by The Stiffler

check compression. if there's none. ur motor's gone.

if the motor wont turn over, how the hell is he going to do a compression test?!

**green91** · 10-04-2006, 02:09 PM

The ticking is more than likely the beginning sign of oil starvation, the cyl head is the last item to receive lubrication. try to turn the motor over by hand using a socket on the crank pulley bolt, if its locked down your motor is toast.

**99SI** · 10-04-2006, 02:24 PM

blown motors usually emit a whine/whistle, have a supercharger on top, aka forced induction by supercharger.

**civicduty** · 10-04-2006, 02:26 PM

well for starters did you check to see if you had any oil it? If so did you check to see how much oil pressure you had with a oil pressure gauge like suggested on h-t? Sounds like you have toasted the block, being the end result of a bad oil pump. Sencond could be that the lsvtec wasnt built right. Did it have the golden eagle lsvtec kit on it for the oil return and supply for the vtec head and block off? Mor then likely check to see if the bottom end turns by hand with a socket to see if it turns at all. But your end result is prob. a bad oil pump.

**HalfBaked** · 10-04-2006, 02:27 PM

High fever
Cough
headaches.

Those are the normal symptoms.

**99SI** · 10-04-2006, 03:01 PM

failed oil pumps cause problems. See, "the destruction and reincarnation of 99si's motor" for details. lol.

**Professor** · 10-04-2006, 03:23 PM

the check oil light came on, then the ticking started...ticking got worse...now motor won't turn over. i just did an oil change, but it wont make any apparent difference. should i just take it somewhere to make sure? where's the

"try to turn the motor over by hand using a socket on the crank pulley bolt, if its locked down your motor is toast."

^ how do i go from there??? where's the crank pulley bolt at???

**Sammich** · 10-04-2006, 03:25 PM

Originally Posted by TurboGSR831

the check oil light came on, then the ticking started...ticking got worse...now motor won't turn over. i just did an oil change, but it wont make any apparent difference. should i just take it somewhere to make sure? where's the

"try to turn the motor over by hand using a socket on the crank pulley bolt, if its locked down your motor is toast."

^ how do i go from there??? where's the crank pulley bolt at???

usually the largest pulley*generally speaking*

**Spyder** · 10-04-2006, 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by TurboGSR831

the check oil light came on, then the ticking started...ticking got worse...now motor won't turn over. i just did an oil change, but it wont make any apparent difference. should i just take it somewhere to make sure? where's the

"try to turn the motor over by hand using a socket on the crank pulley bolt, if its locked down your motor is toast."

^ how do i go from there??? where's the crank pulley bolt at???

look at the bottom of the motor where all the belts circle that is the crank pulley. in the center of that is the crank bolt which is what you are looking for... if you dont know where that is.. to be honest, not being a dick.. you shouldnt be trying to work on your own car.

**green91** · 10-04-2006, 03:33 PM

dude if u kept driving after the oil light came on, its toast lol. it isnt a "check oil light" its a LOW OIL PRESSURE WARNING light! low/no oil pressure = bearing failure

**Sammich** · 10-04-2006, 03:33 PM

tell him again

**Spyder** · 10-04-2006, 03:34 PM

Originally Posted by green91

dude if u kept driving after the oil light came on, its toast lol. it isnt a "check oil light" its a LOW OIL PRESSURE WARNING light! low/no oil pressure = bearing failure

which is normally set at ~5psi, which means you have basically NO oil in the motor....

**Professor** · 10-04-2006, 03:41 PM

oh wow, thanks guy. ill check it out when i get home tonight. so how much does it take to get it fixed???

**Vteckidd** · 10-04-2006, 03:42 PM

Originally Posted by TurboGSR831

the check oil light came on, then the ticking started...ticking got worse...now motor won't turn over. i just did an oil change, but it wont make any apparent difference. should i just take it somewhere to make sure? where's the

"try to turn the motor over by hand using a socket on the crank pulley bolt, if its locked down your motor is toast."

^ how do i go from there??? where's the crank pulley bolt at???

you probably locked the motor up from oil starvation or your motor spun a bearing.

the TICKING you describe was probably a ROD KNOCK. the OIL light is VERY BAD if it blinks. It means you have LESS than 5psi of oil pressure. Uusally when it blinks, its almost too late.

Look into purchasing another motor, LS rods revving to 8000 dont last.

The CRANK PULLEY no a B series motor is a 19mm socket, make surethe car is OUT OF GEAR an see if you can turn it by hand. but mostl ikely, its long gone.

Cost, probably between $1000-3000 depedning on if you have a buddy do it or a shop

**Professor** · 10-04-2006, 03:52 PM

Thanks a lot everyone, i really appreciate the information. Im going to check all that out tonight...

**The Stiffler** · 10-04-2006, 06:11 PM

dude...just go to engline line in atlanta and you can get a cheap engine with low miles for like 800-1200 depending on your motor kind and get someone from here to help you put it in. dont take it to a shop to install a new motor. labor charges are going to kill you. period.

**Vteckidd** · 10-04-2006, 06:22 PM

Originally Posted by The Stiffler

dude...just go to engline line in atlanta and you can get a cheap engine with low miles for like 800-1200 depending on your motor kind and get someone from here to help you put it in. dont take it to a shop to install a new motor. labor charges are going to kill you. period.

you get what you pay for.

if you can find me an LSVTEC anywhere let me know LOL

also, if you can find a B16 or a GSR for that cheap, with a warranty, please let me know.

It sounds like he has no mechanical ability at all, which is totally fine, but saying taht shops are a bad choice is just plain stupid.

**green91** · 10-04-2006, 08:06 PM

Seriously, you would do well to ignore this stiffler guy. He thinks the best way to test for a toast motor is a compression test. lol. on a motor that wont even turn over according to you. stiffler stfu plz. youre clueless.

**speedminded** · 10-04-2006, 08:19 PM

When it was running did it sound like a skeleton masterbating in a metal filing cabinet? If so, pretty sure it's gone! If there's anyone to know about a blown engine...

Just for shits & giggles here's a vid of it starting

http://www.speedminded.com/videos/b18c1start01.mpg

**green91** · 10-04-2006, 08:46 PM

hrm i was around for that destruction lol.

**Professor** · 10-05-2006, 12:22 PM

well, i found out that the crank pulley isnt moving. what are my options from here on? can i get another LS block or just replace the rods and rod bearings?

**Vteckidd** · 10-05-2006, 12:35 PM

youll need a new SHORTBLOCK at the minumum

**99SI** · 10-05-2006, 01:30 PM

Try to find a GSR shortblock and make life easier on yourself. If you do get a new LS block at the very least send it to a machine shop to have it balanced and put in ARP rod bolts and while you're at it get a type R oil pump.

**99SI** · 10-05-2006, 01:32 PM

And there is a good possibility that if you locked up the motor the valves kept moving and hit the piston face. So you could be looking at more than a shortblock. But until you get it apart you will not know

**Vteckidd** · 10-05-2006, 01:39 PM

^^^^why do i even post anymore LOL

99si =tech genius for IA

**99SI** · 10-05-2006, 01:43 PM

You tought me everything I know obd-one kenobi.

**Z U L8R** · 10-06-2006, 07:44 PM

i like mike at engine line but to say don't take your car to a shop is like saying "don't get that surgeon to stitch you up for $$ come to my house and me and bubba will amputate for $20

"

let's say you save a couple hundred on a motor, and get a shadetree mechanic to do it for you for a couple hundred cheaper.......will he give you a warranty? if the USED motor he puts in has problems will he pull it out, fight with the place you got the engine from, then put in another engine for free?

you seem like an intelligent guy, you're good at something, and what you're good at you'll do. i like working on cars and i manage my shop but if i get a cavity i don't go on the snap on truck and buy really small dremel tools and a mirror....stick to what you know and some things are worth paying a professional for their services

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