well i have a kingcab xe with the ka24e i was wondering if i should mod the ka or do a ca\rb\sr swap
this might be a ropost but i didn;t get much input in the nissan thread
need anwsers ka24e
well i have a kingcab xe with the ka24e i was wondering if i should mod the ka or do a ca\rb\sr swap
this might be a ropost but i didn;t get much input in the nissan thread
i would turbo the ka. there is a sohc ka-t on ka-t.org that puts down 240whp at only 6psi
KA24E sucks, only because there is basically no aftermarket support.. KA24DE is a good motor, with much better aftermarket support... CA doesnt have as much support as a SR. RB has decent aftermarket support and generally cost less then an SR but.. takes alot of money to make fast. SR cost a decent amount to get into but is cheap and easy to make fast... due to aftermarket support it is basically my favorite... but having a KADE to pop and throw away at 300 or less each is kinda a nice feeling, im sure.
:boobies:
i would turbo the ka but liek everyones says there is no after market support for them and if i can'ty find the parts then im fukdOriginally Posted by plv
plus ive heard that the #4 cylinder is prone to denatation(sp)
if you turbo it
now as far as an sr go's ive found that the ka24e tranny will bolt right up after you change the bell housing on the sr but still not to shure if it's worth it
Most swaps you find will include the SR tranny, I know the KADE tranny works, not sure about the KAE.
:boobies:
damn also i was told that the sr wouldn;t not bolt up to the mounts on my truck so i have to weld a pan for the motor to sit in and the oil pump doesn;t line up how can i fix this?
If a KAE bolts in then an SR will, they use the same mounts.
Oil pan clearance is another thing in it self... I dont know anything about that portion of it..
:boobies:
well damn it's not the pan that gets in the way but the oil sump itself
pretty sure ka-e tranny wotn work with sr.
anyways, about the aftermarket support, what do you mean?
the ka24DE and ka24E share the same block,
rods, pistons, rings, same.
all it is just that if you put in certain pistons, your compression ratio would be 1 point lower or something.. i forget.
go to KA-T.ORG and search, you'll come up with good results.
KA-E is good enough for pushing upto ~300rwhp.
the E doesnt have oilsquirters like the DE, so you couldnt take the power level as high as the DE.
gl if you plan on turbocharging it.
noone here has much good info about the KA series, well, at least i dont see of any them
They are SOHC instead of DOHC, that is a disadvantage.
They do have the same block which isnt where the problem of a basic turbo setup come into play... its the fact they have a different head, the head is where the manifold mounts... there are very,very few manifolds made for a E where as a DE has several.
They do not have oil squirters as you mentioned which makes a HUGE difference when trying to boost a stock block motor.
Im not down playing what the motors can do I was just saying its a PITA to get them to find parts in comparison to a KADE... or anything else listed in this thread.
As is mentioned above KA-T.org is a great site for exactly what you are asking about.
:boobies:
just dry sump it.
:boobies:
yea cause i have deep enough pockets to dry sump it
here's everything u need for a ka24e
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index3.html
and there are other websites that have forged pistons, headgaskets, anything u need to get 400+hp
reason why i said keep it under 300-350rwhp.
jordan on ka-t.org sells the mani, lance from jgstools sells diy manis or prefabbed manis
but they're log.
noone makes tubular equal length for the E yet, iirc.
twin cam into hardbody
i have a 92 auto that i put a 93 s13 ka and 5 spd into . there was a few large hurdles. oil pan clearance issues with the center steering link and swap bar. and egr pipe hitting firewall. to over come this one i used one inch thick by 4 inch wide alum. stock and machined up a new motor mount so it lifts the engine one inch and takes it forward bout 2 and some change. dunno if you got a cnc machine or a mill handy but i just drilled and counter sunk the holes that bolts to the frame then drilled and tapped new holes for the motor mount to bolt down too. doing this meant the tranny cross member had to come forward, this could have had something to do with it was an auto orignally cause i had to make my own tranny mount as well. also in movin the engine up and forward to clear the oil sump that puts the fan just a few inches behind the radiator...so no stock intake relocated the battery to the back seat, air filter and maf is no behind the passenger headlight. heater hoses will need some attention where the go into the core. power steering hoes will need to be made or built and the resi needs to be moved from the pass side to the drivers since the pump is on the different side. the wiring harness in the truck doesnt come out nice and pretty like the do in the 240s so do a nice job of leaving the harness as complete as possible til ur absolutely sure of the new layout with the twin cam harness. i made the mistake of starting it myself and got too bogged down in the 9 million feet of wire they use in the truck. i took the truck to top hat performance to do the wiring harness once i got everything else done, still gotta finish a few details before its driveable like driveshaft , heater core hoses, power steering, and a.c. oh yea, the stock downpipe also had some clearance issues on the left torsion bar. i used a mandrel bent u pip and cut out the radius and angle i need to get the exhaust bolting up without hitting. its just a temp fix til i get emissions done then the turbo set up and start to go down. i would love to see someone else swappin a truck hit me up with any questions i'd love to give some help if you need. the hardbody sx should be driving by nopi hopefully. may be totally stripped interrior and no dash still but the s13 cluster and steering wheel and a seat... all in time i guess
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