and dont tell me lack of oil because i dont do that shit or its a dent in my oil pan because i dont have one
why do i keep spinnig bearings?
and dont tell me lack of oil because i dont do that shit or its a dent in my oil pan because i dont have one
how many times? how many different motors?
how high are you reving the motor???and who built the motor???
Well you dont have to be low on oil to have low oil pressure. Also what Mr. no mo hondas said.
Are u torqueing the rod bolts correctly?
3 times 3 different motors
have u done anything to the bottom ends.Originally Posted by vancem3m3
i built it but i must be doing something wrong 8500-9300 revs i have ALL suporting parts and tuned
if u built all 3 and u spun on all 3 i would have to agree u are doing something wrong. are you gauging the bearing before install and tq them to the right spec.
fully fully built sleeved balanced i made 445 @ mainstream last friday but i havnt even hammered on it yet i was saving for the track
Well what oil pressure are you hitting? or what is the oil pump rated for? I think you need to be in the 95-100 psi range for 9000+ (could be wrong). Is it the same crank each time? The same cylinder # ?
my next set of questions right there.
well i havent spun 3 in a row. it was like a stock internal setup then did rods and pistons and then i cracked a sleeve did rods and pistons again spun a bearing then a sleeve again and then i sleeved the block and now i crunk it up today and i heard that tap tap tap and i know what it was so ive got to be doing something wrong
what abotu the torque on the rod bolts? did u make sure those were correct?
its a type r oil pump new oem i never repair cranks i always just buy a standard one. so i can use standard bearings that way the machine work is cheaper when they balance everything . my oil pressure is about 24 or 26 at idol around 50 drinving the speed limit and about 75 when i get on it maybe 80 but i have never looked at the gauge at 9000
i usually torque by the book
I dont think the stock type -r pump is up to your demands and it sounds like the machine work might be coming up a little short on quality. The extra volume used to feed the turbo can lower the peak pressure of the pump. I say keep it at 8500 and thats as high as you should go without a change in the volume of the pump (more pressure isnt always the answer). Or you could just get a dry sump rated for like 110psi and spin it to oblivion! weeeee
edit just got updated.
after the updates id be looking at the pump also.
i agree on the machine work ill go somewhere else
no ive ran ls/vtec then gsr now back to ls/vtec diff. crank i dont have a good ls crank right now but i do have a good gsr so thats why i asked if i could use it
He said he was buying a new crank each time it was needed to save on machining. I think if you dont buy a balanced rotating assembly as a kit, the new crank has to be checked and milled according to the components to avoid issues. Well what I mean is when rods and a crank come into contact for the first time the need to be matched.
Post pics of the bearings.
cant get pics right now
sounds like who ever is building your motors shouldnt be building them.. after the second bearing. i would have switched. and had someone who knows something about building them. tear it down and find out why.
but it sounds like someone is using..... ewww plastic gauge ewww which is a big no no when it comes to motors. you can use it on the cams but thats it. and your bearings are too tight.
The G Spot Hero
"Nitrous is like a hot girl with STDS, you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences."
Are you getting the cranks refinished. Hate to tell you this but honda cranks dont like getting refinished. My cousin got his b18c5 crank refinished and it went out twice then he bit the bullet and bought a new one with bearings.
I'd find an unmolested crank and use OEM size bearings with it.
PM silversol think he got one from an ls
you just dont use oem bearings because thats a oem crank and blah blah blah. you use the bearings that work with the crank and block when put together correctly. weather it be 3 oem bearins and 1 oversized bearing or 1 oem standard size and 1 undersize and 2 over sized. whatever it takes to work.
The G Spot Hero
"Nitrous is like a hot girl with STDS, you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences."
well i was there and the problem was when he got head lift the water cut the bearings down and created extra clearance. we took it apart and the bearings were not spun but glazed and really shinny. no debris in oil pan so i think with a slight polish on this knife edged crank will be fine with standard bearings. it was just from the head lift water thing. this is a damn good engine, good machine work, just gotta get it done and torque them headstuds more than 65 next time. then lets see what she makes.
LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!
so its sleeved and it had head lift? how do you get head lift with a built motor? head studs... L19s... wtf.
The G Spot Hero
"Nitrous is like a hot girl with STDS, you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences."
Being sleeved has nothing to do with head lift. Although if hes using ARP head studs and getting lift at only 450whp then they may not be torqued correctly.
i got an idea!!!!!!
aftermarket crank (eagle-crower whatever) NEW!!!
ACL race bearings
new rods (if you spun a rod bearing then the rods trashed)
new wrist pins and the locking shit (after been used higher risk of coming back out)
GOLDEN EAGLE HEADSTUDS (THE SHISNIT)
and let someone else set you bearings and torque it down and follow the torque specs on the paperwork that comes with the headstuds not stock torque specs
there you go should be a good motor for yeah!!
you only made 450+ with a sleeved block how many pounds you pushing???
i am making that on stock sleeves!!!
thats why your motor went vammooSe to oblivionn!!
/Oo ___A___ oO\|=_/_______\_=|
Have you turned your honda crank?...
well what i was referring to is. if he has the block sleeved he should be putting some serious power down. enough to pop the stock sleeves. and usually in order to pop stock sleeves and warrant after market sleeves head lift should no where be an issue. hence if you have sleeves you should have at least at minimuim standard arp 2000 head studs. if not L19s. right have sleeves has nothing to do with head lift. but if you have sleeves you shouldnt have any trouble paying for proper parts to prevent head lift at stock sleeve numbers.
The G Spot Hero
"Nitrous is like a hot girl with STDS, you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences."
its not the machinist! he has always done my work and ive never had an engine fail.ever.
LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!
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