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Thread: help please

  1. #1
    Senior Member | IA Veteran boostedb16's Avatar
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    Default help please

    i just got my b20/vtec swap in. it came with a chipped p28 and dont want to run and idle's really rough and wont rev without sputtering. i can plug my ecu that was running my d series and it idles up and down and can be driven but at low rpm's it cuts out. i pluged my friends 97 hx ecu in and it still idles up and down but runs alot better. any usefull help will be repped.

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran 1civic's Avatar
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    put the chipped p28 in and post back any cel's..

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran boostedb16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1civic
    put the chipped p28 in and post back any cel's..
    ok but i think the SI cluster i have has the check engine bulb missing.

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran 1civic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostedb16
    ok but i think the SI cluster i have has the check engine bulb missing.
    I would fix it.. .. But it seems you may have plugs backwards, Its not uncommon for people to do.. I would check the Map and TPS since thats the one most people have backwards.. If your sure the are right then check all plug connections, vaccum lines, leaks, etc.. Get that bulb fixed also..

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    Barefoot Motorsports
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1civic
    I would fix it.. .. But it seems you may have plugs backwards, Its not uncommon for people to do.. I would check the Map and TPS since thats the one most people have backwards.. If your sure the are right then check all plug connections, vaccum lines, leaks, etc.. Get that bulb fixed also..
    pretty much... u will have to go thru it with a fine tooth comb and make sure everything is correct. which me personally i dont think u have all your connections correct.


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    Back in the EJ1 Grimm Reeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no mo hondas
    pretty much... u will have to go thru it with a fine tooth comb and make sure everything is correct. which me personally i dont think u have all your connections correct.
    x2


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    good luck on it, id love to see how this run since im in the process of doing one

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran boostedb16's Avatar
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    i checked the check engine light code and i counted 58 1 second flashes with about 5 or 6 seconds between flashes with the ecu that ran my d series. so with that many flashes that far apart. was it telling me it was a code 10? if so thats the IAT sensor. i will check it tomorrow with the p28.

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    I VTEC'd your mom Humphrizzle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostedb16
    ok but i think the SI cluster i have has the check engine bulb missing.

    if it doesnt come on when you first turn the key, it's broken.

    g'luck!
    Quote Originally Posted by MR.EM1 View Post
    learn to english

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran boostedb16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no mo hondas
    pretty much... u will have to go thru it with a fine tooth comb and make sure everything is correct. which me personally i dont think u have all your connections correct.
    i had a guy do it and he has done 4 complete swaps and it took him two days to do it. i dont think theres any misplugged plug's. but tell me what to check and i will.

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    Barefoot Motorsports
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostedb16
    i had a guy do it and he has done 4 complete swaps and it took him two days to do it. i dont think theres any misplugged plug's. but tell me what to check and i will.
    4 whole swaps huh. na just fuckin with yah. if he still can keep track of the swaps he has done there is a problem lol. but thats on some other shit.

    seriously have check everything just a once over to be sure. mainly all the connectors that have the same plugs.


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    Senior Member | IA Veteran boostedb16's Avatar
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    ok but what about the code 10 thing.

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    Barefoot Motorsports
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostedb16
    ok but what about the code 10 thing.
    check the IAT make sure its plugged up to the correct connector.


  14. #14
    . eg mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostedb16
    i checked the check engine light code and i counted 58 1 second flashes with about 5 or 6 seconds between flashes with the ecu that ran my d series. so with that many flashes that far apart. was it telling me it was a code 10? if so thats the IAT sensor. i will check it tomorrow with the p28.

    58 1 second flashes


    there is a delayed flash and a quick flash..

    delayed flash = 10
    quick flash = 1

    If there is more than 1 code there will be an even bigger delay for the next code. You know your done when you get the same code twice...


  15. #15
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    The IAT and the IACV connectors look a lot alike on the harness (that 2 pin barrel connector)

    Generally when they are switched, it will blow Q31 in the ECU, and then you will obtain a solid CEL, which means the ECU is bad as stated earlier-

    Hopefully its just the chip that Xenocron made- Im still waiting to hear back from him-

  16. #16
    Senior Member | IA Veteran boostedb16's Avatar
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    how do i check the ecu? i used my friends ecu in mine and put it back in his and his still runs fine.

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran boostedb16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eg mike
    58 1 second flashes


    there is a delayed flash and a quick flash..

    delayed flash = 10
    quick flash = 1

    If there is more than 1 code there will be an even bigger delay for the next code. You know your done when you get the same code twice...
    on honda-tech the sticky about checking code's said "one second flash= 10's and half second flash= 1's.

  18. #18
    Boosted B17 !!!!!!!! 1SOL2NV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostedb16
    how do i check the ecu? i used my friends ecu in mine and put it back in his and his still runs fine.
    if it runs its still good .... which means they were not crossed . i had the q31 done to one of my chipped p28 ecu's for letting someone other than me touch my car ....

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    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    is it an obd 2 throttle body? if you are running an obd1 ecu youll need an obd 1 tps.we usually have to change to an obd1 to get it right if it is. something about the wires pinned different. also the iacv and intake air temp sensor and that little spool valve that has a plug and lets vacume to the purge canister. and the map and tps will interchange as well...
    LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!

  20. #20
    Senior Member | IA Veteran boostedb16's Avatar
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    well i picked up a 97 b20 throttle body today and i am swaping everything like the map sensor and the tps sensor over to it tomorrow.

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