preference of boost.

[chaseamundo]

you pretty much answered your question right there...turbo.

for those that say turbo is not reliable...reliable is dependent on quality of kit, install, tuning, and end user. price can also be a non-issue.

for example:
i built a basic junk yard setup in my garage almost 6 years ago on stock internals and it's still going, making 160+whp OVER stock (about 11hp/lb of boost, most of it's life it's been around 120whp over stock). results will vary and i would say this is an extreme example. most jrsc kits will only yield about 7hp/psi if you try to really spin it to 10psi (which is the max i would recommend, unless you get the lht intercooled manifold which will add $1k to your budget). with a jrsc you're limited to about 70-100whp over stock (not going to see 300whp with that).

$2k either way will be hard unless you do it yourself. make sure you know what you're getting into and don't skimp/cut corners on the turbo...and be careful who you buy a used turbo from (i've seen some real dogs).

thanks fore the help. while we are on the subject,

what makes a complete turbo kit?
all the way from turbo to intercooler and between...?

[scttydb411]

thanks fore the help. while we are on the subject,

what makes a complete turbo kit?
all the way from turbo to intercooler and between...?

manifold
wastegate (some turbo are internally gated and part of the turbo)
turbo
charge piping
silicone couplers
fmic
t-bolt clamps
oil feed and return lines kit
coolant lines (if the turbo is water cooled)
bov
injectors
resistorbox (if you're using peak and hold injectors)
chipped ecu
boost gauge (recommended, but not essential)
colder spark plugs (bkr7e at least)
vacuum line to connect bov, wastgate, and boost gauge.

[Catnip]

manifold
wastegate (some turbo are internally gated and part of the turbo)
turbo
charge piping
silicone couplers
fmic
t-bolt clamps
oil feed and return lines kit
coolant lines (if the turbo is water cooled)
bov
injectors
resistorbox (if you're using peak and hold injectors)
chipped ecu
boost gauge (recommended, but not essential)
colder spark plugs (bkr7e at least)
vacuum line to connect bov, wastgate, and boost gauge.

Not an essential, but ARP head studs are always a good reassurance as well.

[RJ's325ITS]

manifold
wastegate (some turbo are internally gated and part of the turbo)
turbo
charge piping
silicone couplers
fmic
t-bolt clamps
oil feed and return lines kit
coolant lines (if the turbo is water cooled)
bov
injectors
resistorbox (if you're using peak and hold injectors)
chipped ecu
boost gauge (recommended, but not essential)
colder spark plugs (bkr7e at least)
vacuum line to connect bov, wastgate, and boost gauge.

I think an EGT gauge and a wide band O2 sensor and well as the boost gauge is a *must*. IF you want to protect your investment, also helps to diagnostic issues faster.

[chaseamundo]

I think an EGT gauge and a wide band O2 sensor and well as the boost gauge is a *must*. IF you want to protect your investment, also helps to diagnostic issues faster.

What is:
ARP studs
EGT gauge
wide band o2 sensor?
how do they help diagnose

isnt charge piping just the piping holding the bost between turbo and intercooler etc.?

thanks for taking the time to explain this. i really appreciate it

[Catnip]

What is:
ARP studs
EGT gauge
wide band o2 sensor?
how do they help diagnose

isnt charge piping just the piping holding the bost between turbo and intercooler etc.?

thanks for taking the time to explain this. i really appreciate it

ARP head studs are just stronger hardware holding the head to the block.

A wideband shows the air to fuel ratio (rich or lean, lean = melting stuff, rich = not at power potential and 'wasting' gas)

EGT if i remember correctly is just exhaust gas temperatures... tells how the motor is running.