preference of boost.

[chaseamundo]

SAY I HAVE A B18C HATCH.
i know supercharging is hella cheapr but will it give me satisfying results
or should i just wait and turbo?
gimme some pros or cons please.

[xdavidscenex]

sell it.

[BTEC]

depends on what ur looking for as far as horse power, reliability, adjustability, and how much money u trying to spend. im sure theres more to take into consideration but those should keep u busy.

[chaseamundo]

depends on what ur looking for as far as horse power, reliability, adjustability, and how much money u trying to spend. im sure theres more to take into consideration but those should keep u busy.

lets say around 300 hp.
ofcourse i want reliablilty.as reliable as possible
i would also like to adjust if neccesary but dont see myself adjusting much. so a pretty set amount of power
and around 1000-2000....

[81911SC]

LOL never going to happen.

[BTEC]

lets say around 300 hp.
ofcourse i want reliablilty.as reliable as possible
i would also like to adjust if neccesary but dont see myself adjusting much. so a pretty set amount of power
and around 1000-2000....

check for an ebay kit, used kit, or get nitrous and a cool outfit.

[Catnip]

My hatch + 60 trim t3/t4 = sessi time in your pants

[xdavidscenex]

evan your hatch with sc61 would be in the 11's. lol

[Catnip]

evan your hatch with sc61 would be in the 11's. lol

Iknorite

[xdavidscenex]

lets say around 300 hp.
ofcourse i want reliablilty.as reliable as possible
i would also like to adjust if neccesary but dont see myself adjusting much. so a pretty set amount of power
and around 1000-2000....

run a basic log setup with sc61

[TheGrillMan]

run a basic log setup with sc61

LOL @ your cat chowing down on that corn




/threadjack

[Barefoot]

search

[chaseamundo]

i mean thats what i want to spend.
but i know their not cheap and willing to fork it up for the results....
just dont know which route to take

[teh_mugen18]

I would also take into account your driving ability/self-control... If you can handle a car with some really crazy power and prefer it over a low amount of forced induction, then go with turbo... But, if you don't feel you would be able to control yourself in daily driving situations or deal with having that kind of power under your belt, then stick with a supercharger.

[chaseamundo]

I would also take into account your driving ability/self-control... If you can handle a car with some really crazy power and prefer it over a low amount of forced induction, then go with turbo... But, if you don't feel you would be able to control yourself in daily driving situations or deal with having that kind of power under your belt, then stick with a supercharger.

i think i have good control.....
but pretty much turbo walks all over supercharging?

[Catnip]

i think i have good control.....
but pretty much turbo walks all over supercharging?

Turbos are all different sizes.
A T25 turbo will spool quickly but won't yield too much power. Whereas a 60 trim t3/t4 will take longer to spool, but make great power up top. Get what I mean, it's just depends on what you go with.

[JKOBD]

Whether you decide on super or turbocharging, its not going to happen on a 1-2k budget.

[chaseamundo]

Whether you decide on super or turbocharging, its not going to happen on a 1-2k budget.

ok got that.
i already said im willin to throw down some more money. just dont know which route to take....

[civicsol]

supercharge is more reliable in the long run

[Catnip]

Whether you decide on super or turbocharging, its not going to happen on a 1-2k budget.

You're full of shit.

My brother and friend both turbo'd their B16's with all name brand parts (including new headgaskets, ARP head studs, innovative wibebands, etc) with under $2k.

[Catnip]

supercharge is more reliable in the long run

Compared to what? A t25 on 5 psi on nearly anything will last damn near forever.

[ranger250x]

has everything been taken into account i.e. how much boost, fuel delivery and management, intercooled or not, do you plan on upgrading in the future. generally when i have seen others ask about keeping a certain budget they are told to double it. also when ever something goes wrong in a boosted aplication, small problems can sometime magnify into buget busting repairs. im sure there are boosted honda forums that will have a wealth of info and possibly a for sale section with good deals on used parts inside.

[Motivation]

supercharge is more reliable in the long run

Let's try to give accurate information, shall we?

I have seen turbo cars run forever, it just depends on how it is treated. The BIGGEST things on ANY car, especially "force induction", is maintaining it properly, TUNING, TUNING, and TUNING. With a shitty tune, the FI pretty much means nothing. For the price, on a B18, I would go with a turbo.... On a turbo, there is a higher amount of HP per lbs. of boost. On a supercharger, if you want to up the boost you can't just do that by turning a knob or pressing a button. Also, with a B18, there are so many products out there to turbo it, it would be more cost efficient to go that route.


Also, you CAN turbo a car for 1k-2k, just have to look around. Try piecing together a turbo kit, it may come out less expensive.

[chaseamundo]

Let's try to give accurate information, shall we?

I have seen turbo cars run forever, it just depends on how it is treated. The BIGGEST things on ANY car, especially "force induction", is maintaining it properly, TUNING, TUNING, and TUNING. With a shitty tune, the FI pretty much means nothing. For the price, on a B18, I would go with a turbo.... On a turbo, there is a higher amount of HP per lbs. of boost. On a supercharger, if you want to up the boost you can't just do that by turning a knob or pressing a button. Also, with a B18, there are so many products out there to turbo it, it would be more cost efficient to go that route.


Also, you CAN turbo a car for 1k-2k, just have to look around. Try piecing together a turbo kit, it may come out less expensive.

thanks so much ....really helps...
and thanks cgevan

[Bruce Leroy]

Be different... get a jrsc and spray it.

[chaseamundo]

Be different... get a jrsc and spray it.

idk about spray..... give me info on it. cost, effects,installation, where to fill , how long it work until refill etc.
hurt the engine?

[teh_mugen18]

Spray is usually bad on piston rings.....No compression = no boosting for you.

[scttydb411]

lets say around 300 hp.
ofcourse i want reliablilty.as reliable as possible
i would also like to adjust if neccesary but dont see myself adjusting much. so a pretty set amount of power
and around 1000-2000....

you pretty much answered your question right there...turbo.

for those that say turbo is not reliable...reliable is dependent on quality of kit, install, tuning, and end user. price can also be a non-issue.

for example:
i built a basic junk yard setup in my garage almost 6 years ago on stock internals and it's still going, making 160+whp OVER stock (about 11hp/lb of boost, most of it's life it's been around 120whp over stock). results will vary and i would say this is an extreme example. most jrsc kits will only yield about 7hp/psi if you try to really spin it to 10psi (which is the max i would recommend, unless you get the lht intercooled manifold which will add $1k to your budget). with a jrsc you're limited to about 70-100whp over stock (not going to see 300whp with that).

$2k either way will be hard unless you do it yourself. make sure you know what you're getting into and don't skimp/cut corners on the turbo...and be careful who you buy a used turbo from (i've seen some real dogs).

[chaseamundo]

you pretty much answered your question right there...turbo.

for those that say turbo is not reliable...reliable is dependent on quality of kit, install, tuning, and end user. price can also be a non-issue.

for example:
i built a basic junk yard setup in my garage almost 6 years ago on stock internals and it's still going, making 160+whp OVER stock (about 11hp/lb of boost, most of it's life it's been around 120whp over stock). results will vary and i would say this is an extreme example. most jrsc kits will only yield about 7hp/psi if you try to really spin it to 10psi (which is the max i would recommend, unless you get the lht intercooled manifold which will add $1k to your budget). with a jrsc you're limited to about 70-100whp over stock (not going to see 300whp with that).

$2k either way will be hard unless you do it yourself. make sure you know what you're getting into and don't skimp/cut corners on the turbo...and be careful who you buy a used turbo from (i've seen some real dogs).

thanks fore the help. while we are on the subject,

what makes a complete turbo kit?
all the way from turbo to intercooler and between...?

[scttydb411]

thanks fore the help. while we are on the subject,

what makes a complete turbo kit?
all the way from turbo to intercooler and between...?

manifold
wastegate (some turbo are internally gated and part of the turbo)
turbo
charge piping
silicone couplers
fmic
t-bolt clamps
oil feed and return lines kit
coolant lines (if the turbo is water cooled)
bov
injectors
resistorbox (if you're using peak and hold injectors)
chipped ecu
boost gauge (recommended, but not essential)
colder spark plugs (bkr7e at least)
vacuum line to connect bov, wastgate, and boost gauge.

[Catnip]

manifold
wastegate (some turbo are internally gated and part of the turbo)
turbo
charge piping
silicone couplers
fmic
t-bolt clamps
oil feed and return lines kit
coolant lines (if the turbo is water cooled)
bov
injectors
resistorbox (if you're using peak and hold injectors)
chipped ecu
boost gauge (recommended, but not essential)
colder spark plugs (bkr7e at least)
vacuum line to connect bov, wastgate, and boost gauge.

Not an essential, but ARP head studs are always a good reassurance as well.

[RJ's325ITS]

manifold
wastegate (some turbo are internally gated and part of the turbo)
turbo
charge piping
silicone couplers
fmic
t-bolt clamps
oil feed and return lines kit
coolant lines (if the turbo is water cooled)
bov
injectors
resistorbox (if you're using peak and hold injectors)
chipped ecu
boost gauge (recommended, but not essential)
colder spark plugs (bkr7e at least)
vacuum line to connect bov, wastgate, and boost gauge.

I think an EGT gauge and a wide band O2 sensor and well as the boost gauge is a *must*. IF you want to protect your investment, also helps to diagnostic issues faster.

[chaseamundo]

I think an EGT gauge and a wide band O2 sensor and well as the boost gauge is a *must*. IF you want to protect your investment, also helps to diagnostic issues faster.

What is:
ARP studs
EGT gauge
wide band o2 sensor?
how do they help diagnose

isnt charge piping just the piping holding the bost between turbo and intercooler etc.?

thanks for taking the time to explain this. i really appreciate it

[Catnip]

What is:
ARP studs
EGT gauge
wide band o2 sensor?
how do they help diagnose

isnt charge piping just the piping holding the bost between turbo and intercooler etc.?

thanks for taking the time to explain this. i really appreciate it

ARP head studs are just stronger hardware holding the head to the block.

A wideband shows the air to fuel ratio (rich or lean, lean = melting stuff, rich = not at power potential and 'wasting' gas)

EGT if i remember correctly is just exhaust gas temperatures... tells how the motor is running.

[chaseamundo]

good deal
so how much boost can i run on stock internals...

how would i "build" it properly to up boost pressure?

[Catnip]

good deal
so how much boost can i run on stock internals...

how would i "build" it properly to up boost pressure?

The b18c?
I'd say 11-12 psi with a new headgasket and head studs, of course properly tuned. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You could have the block sleeved, billet rods, forged pistons, race bearings, arp rod bolts/head studs, valves, etc and it would hold and assload of boost.

[chaseamundo]

same if it were a b16a2?

and how much $$$ we lookin at here to build.

and if you build it will their be a noticable change in power without booost?

[Catnip]

same if it were a b16a2?

and how much $$$ we lookin at here to build.

and if you build it will their be a noticable change in power without booost?

Personally, I wouldn't put more than 7-8 psi on an unbuilt B16a.
Not sure on a money though, price out everything I mentioned and add a grand. My buddy has a sleeved B18c1 block for sale... I think he wants under $1k for it.

[chaseamundo]

link.....

[Catnip]

link.....

PM patrick4588


slap your b16a head on the b18c1 block and a twin scroll ball bearing GT35r