Wandering steering, oddly worn tires, along with clunks and rattles are indicators of front-end wear or misalignment.
Consult the service manual. Jack up the vehicle. Dig in. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut. Gather your tools.
This is one type of tie-rod end separator tool. If the tie-rods test out okay, use care not to damage the rubber dust-grease boots.
If the tie-rod end is toast then the pickle fork is your friend. Pickle forks tend to destroy the rubber boots, and most everything else.
The best trick in the book: A well-placed smack with a sledgehammer on the meaty steel part of the union and the joint will separate.
Behold, the two components apart. Keep going until the offending components are removed.
In this case, the inner tie rod end was done. To retain a modicum of wheel alignment, measure the total distance of the old assembly. Match this measurement with the new assembly.
The inner tie rod end had failed due to a cracked boot. The grease had escaped leaving the inner tie rod susceptible to rapid wear. Add only specified grease to front end components. Replace cracked or broken boots.
As the wheel turns. Replace all cracked or worn bushings. In this case, the sway bar is an integral part of the front suspension. Worn bushings make for clunky and wandering steering.
The new bushings at left clearly show the punishment the old bushings at right endured.
Here is the front sway bar and bushings ready for install. It may be easier to remove and replace the sway bar with the vehicle weight compressing the suspension.
Re-install the castellated nuts to target torque, stopping as the hole in the tie-rod lines up with the nut. Always install a new cotter pin.