Would putting a PCIII on my bike require the use of an ignition module or would that be something extra that may come in handy?
You do not need an ignition module to use a PC3. A PC3 controls the fuel injectors, so that you can optimize your A/F ratio. It is usually used when you change something like your intake or exhaust, to flow more air. The additional air can require more fuel to be added to maintain an optimal A/F ratio. SOME bikes can see a small improvement when stock, but my experience has been that it is not necessary for most modern stock street bikes - especially new ones that have better mapping from the factory.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
Okay, that makes sense. Right now, it has a Yoshi slip on but it's going to get swapped out for a Two Bros twin pipe system. Still gotta figure out why my FI light is on. I don't want to mess anything up so I am going to run it over to the shop tomorrow morning and see what's up. I was considering a PC3 just so that everything runs smooth as mods are thrown on it.
I never got around to that method before driving past the shop so I stopped in and let them do it. It has something to do with a plug and changing the exhaust to aftermarket. They said it's a $400 fix if the plug is damaged.
Worse than that, the shop broke my rear brake pedal but since that particular foot peg was already broke, they gave me an excuse about "well.....since it was laid down on that side.....it probably bent the pedal......blah blah blah"
I can't prove they broke it other than it was working when I pulled into the shop and now it doesn't. Now, either I buy a stock replacement or find a cheap aftermarket rear set.
Ok, when you change the exhaust from stock to a full aftermarket, you eliminate the servo. On a lot of bikes, they measure resistance internally, and will throw an FI code if they do not see the servo. There is an aftermarket adapter for this elimination of the servo, and it usually runs around $100-$150, depending on who you buy it from. Additionally, they probably are planning to make you pay for replacing the rear set that they broke, plus shop labor. All of that would probably be about $400.
My suggestion - buy aftermarket rearsets - look for Vortex or Woodcraft - preferably a used set on Ebay. Those should run you $150-200 for a pair in like new shape. Buy the servo eliminator, do a search on Google for which is the best for your bike. Get the full Two Brothers twin exhaust, and a PC3. Put all of that on yourself (it's easy), and then take it to get it tuned immediately.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
It doesn't matter to me who does it really as long as it's done. Currently it has a Yoshi RS5 slip-on which will do for the tune. Just need to change some fluids and plugs, get that servo motor eliminator, a new K&N filter, a PC3 and have it tuned. The Two Bros pipes can wait. Will I need a retune when I get the new pipes?
In Atlanta, there are a couple of shops that tune well.
For some tunes I go to Rob at MSP Cycle, and for other bikes, I go to Huey at Marietta Motorsports.
A lot of friends of mine like to go to HFD1 Motorsports, and those tunes have always seemed to be correct.
There are plenty of other shops that I have not had any experience with, and others that I would not want to try.
Choose a tuner with care. Get references from people that you trust, and don't be afraid to ask your tuner how long they have been tuning, and what types of bikes that they tune the most.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
I am ordering the rear sets from Vortex today and hopefully get my PC3 within a month.
EDIT:
BNIB Vortex rear sets - $210 shipped
seat cowl from ZX6RR - $60 shipped
Two Bros twin system - $650 on Amazon
Power Commander 3 - $250 on eBay.
Two down and two to go. All I need after these parts and a tune will be fresh paint on the body and the wheels powdered gold.and a few carbon pieces.
This one already puts out 140rwhp as it sits. Not quite as much as my old R1, but enough for the street.
There is no need to build any bike motor unless you are racing - it's cheaper just to buy a newer bike, and they come out with more power each year.
As for personal touches, this one is on overkill on that. Almost every part of the bike has been changes or modified - even the frame/swingarm is not stock. There's a lot more than people notice.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
I hear that. My bike is staying pretty stock, I had the suspension reworked, some bolt on power stuff, some stuff that just fits my own taste aesthetically that most hardcore riders would probably rag on me for... but they don't have to ride it, and just some small touches to make it how I wanted it. I'm not a diehard track guy by any means, but I plan on building an R6 for track day thrashing.
Just sold the GSXR-750 track bike.
Have a 929RR to sell next.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
I thought about going 750 for a trackbike but haven't sold myself on the idea of it. After riding my buddies 04?? CBR600RR trackbike for the mod list it's going to be hard to beat dollar for dollar. He has a VERY budget build, and it's impressive. I'd like to stick Yamaha though, just because.
I can see where it would. We go through so much stuff it's obnoxious, the only reason I'm doing it is I have been offered a very nice (and also day shift) position at our local EMS once I finish it all up. My entire family is involved in emergency services up here (from 911 dispatch to driving non-emergency transit buses) which definitely helped. Not to mention I had finished all my core classes, my A&P, medical term, and other stuff up the first time I went to school before taking a year off so it wont be AS bad.
I'm looking into that Competition Werkes setup and haven't really found much info on it. I was going to see if it was something I could help you out on through the shop, but we definitely don't carry it.