rear disc conversion HELP!!

[dustinkelley]

well i have the whole back setup for my ef. and i have some brake lines.........what else do i need and can someone give me instructions on how to do this whole conversion from first to last thing to do...........reps on all help!!!

[DC2NR]

try a search on honda-tech.

[dustinkelley]

Ok thanks.........anyone done this b4 on here.....

[sakasaku]

message evasiveef9

[StraightSix]

Yup several of us have done it before. Honda-Tech will be the best source for a write up.

The rough guide is unbolt stock drum arms, bolt "new" disk trailing arms in, replace prop valve, replace parking brake cables, and bleed barkes.

[00CelicaGT]

cant u just diassemble the drums, unbolt the hub and replace w/ the DA hub? also dont u need to use the DA E-brake cables?

[bigdare23]

-remove the parking brake cable
-remove the brake lines
-disconnect the trailing arms (leaving your current control arms)
-Install in reverse order (use a 90-93 integra parking brake cable)
-bleed brakes
-done


easy, a friend and I did it on my hatch in about 2 hours.

optional stuff are a 90/91 CRX Si prop valve (unless you have longer front brakes too then you need a 4040 prop valve). also, get a 90/91 civic EX master cylinder or a 90-92 integra brake booster and master cylinder (non abs). If you dont do the optional stuff your pedal is not going to be as stiff as you want it.

[bigdare23]

cant u just diassemble the drums, unbolt the hub and replace w/ the DA hub? also dont u need to use the DA E-brake cables?

too much work

[junior_tm]

i did my self and it took me 4 hours in my 95 civic

[green91]

keep in mind DA trailing arms move the wheels about .5-.75" outward

[EvasiveEF9]

-remove the parking brake cable
-remove the brake lines
-disconnect the trailing arms (leaving your current control arms)
-Install in reverse order (use a 90-93 integra parking brake cable)
-bleed brakes
-done


easy, a friend and I did it on my hatch in about 2 hours.

optional stuff are a 90/91 CRX Si prop valve (unless you have longer front brakes too then you need a 4040 prop valve). also, get a 90/91 civic EX master cylinder or a 90-92 integra brake booster and master cylinder (non abs). If you dont do the optional stuff your pedal is not going to be as stiff as you want it.

...did I do yours or was that someone else? I honestly cannot remember...

[bigdare23]

...did I do yours or was that someone else? I honestly cannot remember...

you did mines on the crx, I did my own on the hatch.

[rbwdriven]

there you go.

how to do stuff with Ef's including rear disc.

http://www.civic4g.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7692

[00CelicaGT]

too much work

NOT WHEN U HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS (IMPACT GUNS & AIR RATCHETS)
I PLAN TO DO MINE THAT WAY CUZ THE BUSHINGS IN THE DA TRAILER ARMS I HAVE LOOK LIKE HOT GARBAGE.

P.S.

ON MY HATCH DO I NEED TO USE THE DA E-BRAKE CABLES OR CRX? I ASK CUZ I PICKED UP THE ENTIRE REAR SUSPENSION INCLUDING SWAY BAR OFF OF A 91 INTEGRA FOR $150 A WHILE BACK, BUT IM NOT SURE IF I USE THE DA OR CRX CABLES.

[dustinkelley]

thanks yall when i have time im gonna rep yall.........got ta eat!!

[slow_hatch]

I've done a few. The best thing to do is replace your drums with the discs but keep them on your civic trailing arms. (As Green91 said the DA trailing arms move you wheels out almost 1/2") To do this you will need a big socket(can't remember whats size and hex(star shaped) socket(again can't remember what size). You will need the DA Ebrake cables.

[EvasiveEF9]

you did mines on the crx, I did my own on the hatch.

Glad I could play mentor.

NOT WHEN U HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS (IMPACT GUNS & AIR RATCHETS)
I PLAN TO DO MINE THAT WAY CUZ THE BUSHINGS IN THE DA TRAILER ARMS I HAVE LOOK LIKE HOT GARBAGE.

P.S.

ON MY HATCH DO I NEED TO USE THE DA E-BRAKE CABLES OR CRX? I ASK CUZ I PICKED UP THE ENTIRE REAR SUSPENSION INCLUDING SWAY BAR OFF OF A 91 INTEGRA FOR $150 A WHILE BACK, BUT IM NOT SURE IF I USE THE DA OR CRX CABLES.

I had an entire shop full of tools. Still replaced the TA's. Seemed quicker, plus the parts were meant for each other instead of crossing them over. Not to mention the wider rear stance looked good in my opinion, but it will cause the owner to consider rolling...

Replace your bushings while you have the bastards out. It's easy as hell, and not expensive at all...

Yes, you'll need the DA Ebrake cable. CHECK THE USED ONES YOU HAVE VERY VERY CLOSELY FOR THEIR QUALITY! If money is manageable...replace them.

You probably bought those off me? I sold alot on here...had like six sets I sold total.

[slow_hatch]

Glad I could play mentor.

I had an entire shop full of tools. Still replaced the TA's. Seemed quicker, plus the parts were meant for each other instead of crossing them over. Not to mention the wider rear stance looked good in my opinion, but it will cause the owner to consider rolling...

Replace your bushings while you have the bastards out. It's easy as hell, and not expensive at all...

The trailing arm bushings are a PITA. That is the main reason I kept my civic control arms. I bought the tool to replace them, but the DA ones are a different size and the tool is of no help. That and I had to roll my fenders to fit my wheels even with the civic arms, if i would have kept the DA ones i would have needed to pull the heck out of them or ziz wheel the lip off.

[00CelicaGT]

I've done a few. The best thing to do is replace your drums with the discs but keep them on your civic trailing arms. (As Green91 said the DA trailing arms move you wheels out almost 1/2") To do this you will need a big socket(can't remember whats size and hex(star shaped) socket(again can't remember what size). You will need the DA Ebrake cables.

i figured that would be the best way, thanx brad . plus i already have the rear disc setup disassembled from when i put everything in the hot tanks at work to clean all the dirt, greese, and grime off of everything. everything has been tagged & bagged untill i get another shell/car to build.

evasive- i bought my set up off a guy in hamptom (by AMS)that was parting out an entire 91 integra. the E-brake cables are in really good condition, actually the best iv'e ever seen on a honda that old. i have replaced the calipers, added ss braided lines.

[StraightSix]

Using the Integra arm would be fine. They *DO NOT* push the wheels out. Think about this, if that were true, would you have been able to swap the spindle over to the Civic arm? The stampings for the Integra arms have the same shape as the Civic arms with the exception of the size of the trailing arm bushing. That's the only difference.

Another way to think about it takes into account Japanese manufacturing processes. It's far cheaper to make one trailing arm with a single change (the hole for the trailing arm bushing) than to make two different arms for each model line. Any further geometry changes would then be more easily made in the smaller parts like the compensator arms, UCAs, and LCAs.

FWIW, I went the spindle swap method since the bushings in my trailing arms were new and the ones in the Integra arms were worn out.

[EvasiveEF9]

The trailing arm bushings are a PITA. That is the main reason I kept my civic control arms. I bought the tool to replace them, but the DA ones are a different size and the tool is of no help. That and I had to roll my fenders to fit my wheels even with the civic arms, if i would have kept the DA ones i would have needed to pull the heck out of them or ziz wheel the lip off.

Check your tire size on that, too, as well as your wheel offset. I can't remember to spec what my setup was, but I never really had a problem except in chassis-twisting bumps and humps in the road with a loaded car. And if you ever knew my car, it sat low in the rear...

i figured that would be the best way, thanx brad . plus i already have the rear disc setup disassembled from when i put everything in the hot tanks at work to clean all the dirt, greese, and grime off of everything. everything has been tagged & bagged untill i get another shell/car to build.

evasive- i bought my set up off a guy in hamptom (by AMS)that was parting out an entire 91 integra. the E-brake cables are in really good condition, actually the best iv'e ever seen on a honda that old. i have replaced the calipers, added ss braided lines.

Well if the majority of the work is already done, I can understand...but I'd still have been focused on just using all DA stuff. Good find on the part, though! And keep the DA's ebrake cables if they're in good condition. The SS lines won't really help that much, but if you're replacing them to begin with, good work. I never replaced my calipers, though. Mine weren't frozen.

Using the Integra arm would be fine. They *DO NOT* push the wheels out. Think about this, if that were true, would you have been able to swap the spindle over to the Civic arm? The stampings for the Integra arms have the same shape as the Civic arms with the exception of the size of the trailing arm bushing. That's the only difference.

Another way to think about it takes into account Japanese manufacturing processes. It's far cheaper to make one trailing arm with a single change (the hole for the trailing arm bushing) than to make two different arms for each model line. Any further geometry changes would then be more easily made in the smaller parts like the compensator arms, UCAs, and LCAs.

FWIW, I went the spindle swap method since the bushings in my trailing arms were new and the ones in the Integra arms were worn out.

While that DOES make sense, I thought HT had done a big research on it and found it to have pushed them out? Was this theory every disproven?

[StraightSix]

While that DOES make sense, I thought HT had done a big research on it and found it to have pushed them out? Was this theory every disproven?

I take the stuff I read on H-T with a grain of salt. On H-T, for instance, you won't find any information, TMK, regarding swapping spindles for a rear disk conversion. I found out on my own that I could do it.

Another thing I found on H-T to be not so true was the information about swapping early seats ( '88-'89 ) into a '90-'91 chassis. The stuff I read claimed that the seat back adjusters can not be installed in the correct position for a '90-'91 car, i.e. with the adjuster on the outside of the seats. My seats are from an '89 Si and the adjusters are on the correct side. I had to swap the seat pans side to side; the '89 passenger seat pan became the driver's side and vice versa.

So, I tend to use H-T as a guide and make adjustments as I see fit to get done what I want to do.

[slow_hatch]

Using the Integra arm would be fine. They *DO NOT* push the wheels out. Think about this, if that were true, would you have been able to swap the spindle over to the Civic arm? The stampings for the Integra arms have the same shape as the Civic arms with the exception of the size of the trailing arm bushing. That's the only difference.

Another way to think about it takes into account Japanese manufacturing processes. It's far cheaper to make one trailing arm with a single change (the hole for the trailing arm bushing) than to make two different arms for each model line. Any further geometry changes would then be more easily made in the smaller parts like the compensator arms, UCAs, and LCAs.

Ok, well i'm not going to argue with you on the subject. However I have personally had DA trailing arms/DA disc on my car. I also have had Civic trailing arms/DA disc as well. I can tell you that the DA arms while very similar, are not the same as the civic ones. It would have been far cheaper to make both arms the same including bushing size etc, but they didn't. The DA trailing arms DO make the rear wheels stick out further. I've have also done this swap on other cars with the same noted changes. Not to mention the people on HT that have also experienced the same effects. Do it how you want though either way will work, just expect to roll your fenders if you using less then +40 offset wheels with the DA arms

[slow_hatch]

Check your tire size on that, too, as well as your wheel offset. I can't remember to spec what my setup was, but I never really had a problem except in chassis-twisting bumps and humps in the road with a loaded car. And if you ever knew my car, it sat low in the rear...

Yes I know your car, and your wheels seeing how I was the one who sold them to you. I am running a .5" wider w/ 5mm lower offset wheel than you were running. I had both configurations on the car and I have seen the difference the trailing arms make. I know what all goes into wheel fitment

[green91]

DA trailing arms absolutely DO push the wheels out. I personally had to roll my fenders to clear my tires after installing da arms & rear disc.

[sakasaku]

This should help(Ps al ways check HT)
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1916212

[bigdare23]

I was always told if you use the integra's control arms then they push the wheel out, but if you keep your current control arms you're cool.

[StraightSix]

I was always told if you use the integra's control arms then they push the wheel out, but if you keep your current control arms you're cool.

Careful here, the control arms and trailing arms are two very different parts.

[bigdare23]

Careful here, the control arms and trailing arms are two very different parts.

Yeah I know

I was told when using integra trailing arms keep your current control arms and it wont change how far your wheels poke out (camber direction). I did hear about those trailing arm slightly sliding your wheel toward the rear bumper tho (caster direction), but when I installed DC trailing arms my wheel appeared to be in the same place.

[KevinT707]

Rear disc brakes would be nice but lets say I only upgrade my front brakes to say the Fast-Brakes 11" front bigger brake kit w/out touching the rear. Most of the braking power is in the front anyway so ..

Would it be extremely front brake bias then or would I be fine?

[StraightSix]

It's likely to move your brake bias forward.

[EvasiveEF9]

Yeah I know

I was told when using integra trailing arms keep your current control arms and it wont change how far your wheels poke out (camber direction). I did hear about those trailing arm slightly sliding your wheel toward the rear bumper tho (caster direction), but when I installed DC trailing arms my wheel appeared to be in the same place.

This makes sense...

I also wonder if there's a DC/DA difference...

It's likely to move your brake bias forward.

x2

[StraightSix]

This makes sense...

I also wonder if there's a DC/DA difference...

That's a possibility, but I doubt it as far as the trailing arms go. I haven't gotten the time to take any measurements of the DA arms that I have in my garage vs. the EF arms that are on my car, but I'm planning on it. BTW, these are DA arms that I have left over from a rear disc swap I did on an EG hatch.

I have heard the same thing that Dare has, that the differences in the rear suspensions of '88 - '00 Honda products are in the Upper and lower control arms, and possibly the compensator arms. What I expect to find, if anything, is that the stampings are different where the UCAs and LCAs bolt to the trailing arms, i.e. the lengths for the pickups are different. I'll post what I find.

[EvasiveEF9]

I can already vouch the control arms are different in size...

[StraightSix]

I can already vouch the control arms are different in size...

The cross section might be larger; like where the bushing is pressed into the arm. What will push the wheels out is if the measurements for the UCA and LCA pickup points are different.

[dustinkelley]

thanks for all the information agian yall are all repped if not then you didnt say anything or i accidentally skipped you.lol.................ooohh and by the way anyone want to come over and help me, lmao!!! rookie of the year did a lot to it and still dont know what the F* im doin..

[green91]

Another thing to keep in mind is that if you swap the entire trailing arm you will need an alignment.

[eva6206213]

thank you for your sharing~

[EvasiveEF9]

I'd love to help. Got gas money?

[dustinkelley]

I'd love to help. Got gas money?

yea....i got to make a check list first though to make sure i have all the stuff for the conversion