I need Rotary Help

[LSVTEC92]

Cheapest way to make power is the bottle, period.

I Agree 100%. Cheapest way to make power would be to just strap on that tank. Rotary love NOS just like Mustang do.... You would not feel to much of a difference with Intake and Exhaust. ------>>>> NOS<<<<-----

[lata]

First off, I love your car. I had a black 90 GXL. The black FCs are so bloody rare, specially a S5
Do exhaust headers first if you going to mod. The header is ultra restrictive and while you at it, converted to a single high flow cat...if you want to stay green, if not, just take them off. check out this forum, slcrotary.com, small community, but smart people and great forum. Don't run higher octane than 87 or 85 if you are in high altitude. NA FC dont like high octane unless you got the timing set for it. all you will do is lose gas milage and power. Dont run synthetic, unless you dont have cats. And do Rev it out from time to time, so you dont get carbon build up and pop an apex seal. Just some useful tips if you didnt already know.

If you going turbo rotary with stock NA drivetrain, dont go over 250whp. but if you do a regular piston motor swap, the drivetrain is good for 500whp.

If you do a turbo, Dont worry about the high comp rotors, just make sure you got fuel management. My friend is making about 230-250 whp in his S5 NA with 7-8 psi.

If you go T2, then you need to swap everything out from motor to rearend.

[David88vert]

If you going turbo rotary with stock NA drivetrain, dont go over 250whp. but if you do a regular piston motor swap, the drivetrain is good for 500whp.

Everything else is good, but please rethink this statement.

Torque is what snaps things. To the rearend, it doesn't care if you have 250hp or 500hp. Torque is what will kill it. A LS1 or 302 will make a lot more torque that a T2 motor. And the way you drive it will make a lot of difference also. Dragstrip starts will kill it a lot faster than daily driving. You could have 1000hp/1000Tq and not snap the stock drivetrain IF you drove it like a grandma.

[Bridged]

If you go T2, then you need to swap everything out from motor to rearend.

I didn't and i'm making around 450whp. Weird I guess.



And fact is you don't want to go over 15.0 comp on a rotary that's N/A to turbo. So S4 is the only way to go for N/A and turbocharge it. S5 comp plus the ratio of the turbo would end the motor into the 17's on 9PSI. So on an S5 you can only run around 5PSI, which isn't worth the money.

I can asure you if your on a budget get the Atkins 9" Superchager made for STOCK FC n/a's. you will be running around 187-196whp if the car is competely bne stock. Costs the same as turboing the N/A and believe it or not you'll get better power. Throw a fuel system and larger secondaries and you will get good gains.

If that's not a choice for you bridgeport and put a TurboII transmission in. TurboII transmissions are good for 550whp at stock form.

Or T2 swap.

Thoose are reasonable choices that I have run across.

Oh. and another new one is getting expensive seals(ceramic) and putting renesis rotors(10. compression) with a nice sized streetport. Around the same cost and would still make you N/A but running the same hp has the above, besides the bridgeport.

[David88vert]

And fact is you don't want to go over 15.0 comp on a rotary that's N/A to turbo. So S4 is the only way to go for N/A and turbocharge it. S5 comp plus the ratio of the turbo would end the motor into the 17's on 9PSI. So on an S5 you can only run around 5PSI, which isn't worth the money.

I agree with all of the other options except for the boost level here. 5 psi on higher compression motor can put out the same horsepower as 8psi on lower compression. The difference is that with higher compression you can come off the line easier, and it's a more linear power. That is more manageable on the road course. Of course, the downside is it's more important to have a good tune. Less room for error.