ALL MOTOR B18B

[hondaxpurt]

Hey guys, just looking for an input on this setup:

I have a stock ls now with a spare b20z head. Looking to do-

Crower 403's
dual valve spring with retainers
PnP (due to the lack of flow of the non vtec head)
brand new OE valves, stem seals, and rockers.
65mm throttle body, port matched to manifold
ITR pistons
Tuned on crome
and of couse IHE

What kinda power, and its my DD so how reliable?

[RBS]

you should make between 150-170 whp, 170 being on the less likely side of things unless you are revving the *$&%(*&# out of the engine. arent you a Honda xpurt?

[hondaxpurt]

lol, yeah i am a honda certified tech but as far as opinions, i like to get a few

[RBS]

lol, yeah i am a honda certified tech but as far as opinions, i like to get a few

well in the case of opinions, a completely stock bottom end with a stock vtec head will yield you around the same amount of power. srsly

[hondaxpurt]

which brings me to my next point....reliability.

[RBS]

which brings me to my next point....reliability.

LS/Vtec combinations are just as reliable as a all OEM engine, what it comes down to is how the engine is built and how you the driver drives it. THE main complaint i get about LS/Vtecs are that the rod bolts break and there are alot of oil leaks.

the answer to this is to upgrade your rod bolts OR use forged rods/pistons, and the oil leak part is due in part to how it was assembled. if your going to run the piss out of the engine then either one will fail in the end no matter what, its inevitable.

[BABY J]

Ditch the 403s and go with 404s.

[hondaxpurt]

Ditch the 403s and go with 404s.

well i dont want to go overboard

[Infamous_1]

I say 150 with stock bottom end
U need higher compresson if u want higher numbers
and yea ditch the 403's and go 404's...I am

[hondaxpurt]

I say 150 with stock bottom end
U need higher compresson if u want higher numbers
and yea ditch the 403's and go 404's...I am

WITH ITR PISTONS?

[*EFilliated*]

my question is Y

[Papa_Smurf]

I say 150 with stock bottom end
U need higher compresson if u want higher numbers
and yea ditch the 403's and go 404's...I am

give me your 403s. lol.


you'd prefer 404s even for DD?

[BABY J]

Do not waste your time with 403s.

[Toreyjw1]

im confused as to the reference to the b20z head. if you're saying you're planning on slapping it on top of your b18b, then im willing to bet your compression is going to drop. its counterintuitive to place a head with larger head displacement such as a 2 liter head on a 1.8 liter block despite its better flow. you'll end up breaking even on power, and your power will just roll in a little higher and carry for a longer amount of time hence better drivability. and ITR pistons wont work unless you alter the rods. now civic si pistons would work and that will give you much higher compression if you still ran the stock LS head in terms of compression due to head capacity differences. with the b20z head and say a higher compression piston setup, your power differences wont be significant. in combination with say 403's or 404's, you may make a decent amount of power with the proper tuning. ive ran both 403's and 404's in a b18b and a higher compression jdm b20b and my personal preference is the 404's. peoples acclaimed preference on the 404's in terms of drivability are skewed considering most people who seem to have an input haven't ran them or driven a car dd with them.

ive driven down the road of attempting to build a b18b and ive done MUCH research in terms of its capability and now, in the end, im wishing id just gone turbo considering the minimal power gains in comparison to the money ive put in it. and for the record, ive seen multiple b18b setups with essentially all the same head work (cams, springs, retainers, guides, valves, multi angled valve jobs, and polishing) with bolt ons galore and they can all range as much as 25whp all based on tuning. it comes down to depicting the correct a/f thats safe in terms internal combustion heat (too lean) and the revs or where the power comes in. again, it all depends on what your plans are for the car. slap some tall cams in it and arp rod bolts (properly installed and torqued) and make power to 8 grand all day safely. it wont be super fast but will track well in terms of its power and where you can expect to get it.

[turbob20]

need higher compression to match 404s. get some pr3/p30s will fit right on your rods and will yield around 11:5:1 and still run on pump easy at 30 miles to the gallon and commute all day with arp rod bolts for reliability to spin to 7500-8000 all day if you want also you will need a but load of porting to get those heads to flow and a b20 pr8 though rare will be a better start as they are rumored to have close if not the same size valves as the vtec ones but still lack in port velocity. i always just go vtec as the ports are awesome from the factory and they seem to produce results so then you wont have to worry with the porting just to make an ls/b20 head flow like a vtec already does anyways! take it easy man and good luck with your build .

[Tech5]

im confused as to the reference to the b20z head. if you're saying you're planning on slapping it on top of your b18b, then im willing to bet your compression is going to drop. its counterintuitive to place a head with larger head displacement such as a 2 liter head on a 1.8 liter block despite its better flow. you'll end up breaking even on power, and your power will just roll in a little higher and carry for a longer amount of time hence better drivability. and ITR pistons wont work unless you alter the rods. now civic si pistons would work and that will give you much higher compression if you still ran the stock LS head in terms of compression due to head capacity differences. with the b20z head and say a higher compression piston setup, your power differences wont be significant. in combination with say 403's or 404's, you may make a decent amount of power with the proper tuning. ive ran both 403's and 404's in a b18b and a higher compression jdm b20b and my personal preference is the 404's. peoples acclaimed preference on the 404's in terms of drivability are skewed considering most people who seem to have an input haven't ran them or driven a car dd with them.

ive driven down the road of attempting to build a b18b and ive done MUCH research in terms of its capability and now, in the end, im wishing id just gone turbo considering the minimal power gains in comparison to the money ive put in it. and for the record, ive seen multiple b18b setups with essentially all the same head work (cams, springs, retainers, guides, valves, multi angled valve jobs, and polishing) with bolt ons galore and they can all range as much as 25whp all based on tuning. it comes down to depicting the correct a/f thats safe in terms internal combustion heat (too lean) and the revs or where the power comes in. again, it all depends on what your plans are for the car. slap some tall cams in it and arp rod bolts (properly installed and torqued) and make power to 8 grand all day safely. it wont be super fast but will track well in terms of its power and where you can expect to get it.

Its the same head as the LS !!!

ANd B16 pistons will be better then type r

[Vteckidd]

B20 p8r head is much better than stock LS if thats what he has.

But, like someone else said, sell all of it , buy a $400-500 vtec head complete, chip your ecu, golden eagle ls vtec kit and make same power or MORE. Just keep revs around 7500-7800 which is fine you Wont make power past that.

It'll he reliable of your block is healthy.

Stock lsvtec 155-165whp.

Ls with 403 or 404s you'll be lucky to hit 155-160.

[turbob20]

yeah thats where its at. maybe the illusive type r cams and tune with pr3/p30 b16 pistons will put you in the 170+ mark good luck!