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Thread: Boost Issues...

  1. #1
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    Default Boost Issues...

    So I have a boosted 94 integra ls. It was tuned on 4 pounds before I purchased it on a b18a1 and a piece of crap turbo that wouldnt spool. I have since replaced the engine with a b18b1, new turbo, and a 5 pound wg spring.

    Now I know that I need a new tune... but it seems as though it would run fine with the current set-up, but its not. Once the engine gets completely warmed up (like a after a good 20min of driving) then it seems to miss fire when I get down on it, and the tach goes crazy all over the place.

    And also, itll seem reeeeally sluggish when its not in boost. And further more, Sometimes it just wont freaking get up and go.. like its not getting fuel or somthing. Ill give it 60% throttle and it wont hardly move, but Ill back down to like 10% throttle and itll pull harder than it was when it was at 60%. When it does this, then it begins to try and over heat .......



    But then in certain conditions.. mainly when its relatively cool outside, itll run flawlessly... like there will be not one single issue with it..

    Its soooo fuckin finiky... I have no idea whats up....


  2. #2
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Catnip's Avatar
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    MSD FTL
    '92 C2500 6.5 Turbo Diesel | '96 240sx

  3. #3
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    Not a single MSD product on the car. Completely stock ignition set-up except for plugs and wires.


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    sounds like when it is getting warmer intake temps it's detonating. i would start by having a fresh tune put on it first and foremost.
    Who knows?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hondabuilder
    sounds like when it is getting warmer intake temps it's detonating. i would start by having a fresh tune put on it first and foremost.

    That may have somthing to do with it. Im just afraid that Ill trailer it a few hours away to get a tune and then they tell me that it has some mechanical problem I need to take care of first.

    But I think Ill try and run the car with the front bumper off to try and get some fresh air circulating around in the bay. Maybe thatll help some.


  6. #6
    Southern Speed
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    Might want to look into changing the ignitor, and possibly coil, if you havnt already.
    11.7@116- All motor H2B Integra

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarKStaR
    Might want to look into changing the ignitor, and possibly coil, if you havnt already.
    Well when I bought the motor it was said to have a new dizzy, cap and rotor. But I still have my old dizzy from my other ls. I suppose I could put that on and see how it does then.


  8. #8
    Mountain man green91's Avatar
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    The tach signal is derived from the neg coil wire from the dizzy, definitely check your distributor, connector and the wiring around it.

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    yeahhhh...... Nick Jeezy's Avatar
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    check your timing.

    it also sounds like a horrible boost leak

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    Quote Originally Posted by green91
    The tach signal is derived from the neg coil wire from the dizzy, definitely check your distributor, connector and the wiring around it.

    Ahhhh thats good to know. I wasnt sure if they were directly linked like that. Ill definately swap the dizzys and check that all the wiring is sound.


  11. #11
    IA Member B20brid's Avatar
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    It is so nice to have so many people to help when you need info
    3??whp on 7psi!!!!!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Jeezy
    check your timing.

    it also sounds like a horrible boost leak

    What exactely would be the symptoms of boost leak?


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    Mountain man green91's Avatar
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    Since your integra is MAP sensor based, a boost leak will NOT cause the problems you are having. Timing will not cause a tachometer fluctuation, but could cause the bogging you are having out of boost. Its also very possible that your tune isnt very good.

  14. #14
    My Dong Is Bigger mushroom_toy's Avatar
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    Sounds like your fuel/air mixture might not be right. (not enough gas) So maybe when you back off the throttle the mixture straightens out and it picks up again? Thats pretty much how it is on my bike anyway.


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    So I guess my tune would have to be pretty fn terrible to cause my engine to begin to overheat.. It got up to the half way mark on the temp gauge once. I just popped in the clutch and coasted and it went back to normal.


    I know that back in my young days when I was into nitro r/c cars, a really lean a/f mixture would cause an engine to over heat.. but it would always gain a good bit of power and never bog down like my integra is doing.. but I guess thats all it is though?... a really lean a/f mixture which is causing all my problems that is worsened by the blistering summer georgia heat


  16. #16
    buy me some STP octane booster whatever210's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Jeezy
    check your timing.

    it also sounds like a horrible boost leak
    omg its nick jeezy! lol they dont have that damn maf like us lol. fuck them hondas and their map sensors lol. jk its fucked up. they blow a coupler and they can still drive. i blow a coupler and my car wont move lol

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    Mountain man green91's Avatar
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    I cant think of a single way that a tune could cause your engine to overheat as long as your cooling system is working properly. A lean mixture does cause hotter ignition temps, but should in NO way cause your car to overheat.

  18. #18
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    1. you probably shouldnt "get down" on something untuned (especially since you changed motors)
    2. Tach signal, and distributor correlate, if your dizzy is acting funny it will make it jump around, make it feel like it has no power, break up, etc etc..
    3. what plugs are in the motor? Hopefully Bkr7e's gapped accordingly.
    4. Dont blame a tune on a motor that doesnt seem to be running properly period.

    The EMPIRE

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmminoDaGreat
    1. you probably shouldnt "get down" on something untuned (especially since you changed motors)
    2. Tach signal, and distributor correlate, if your dizzy is acting funny it will make it jump around, make it feel like it has no power, break up, etc etc..
    3. what plugs are in the motor? Hopefully Bkr7e's gapped accordingly.
    4. Dont blame a tune on a motor that doesnt seem to be running properly period.

    1. Well I figured that theres such a minute difference between the obd1 a1 and b1 that the tune would carry over decently to the new motor.

    2. Yea Ill definitely change out dizzys once I get the chance. Never had a problem with my old one.

    3. Ahhhh I forget what Im running. I had it at a local shop once and the dude said he swapped out my plugs for colder ngk ones.... I cant remember which ones. Ill look tomorrow.

    4. I have a hard time not blaming the tune considering the motor was rebuilt about 20k miles ago by an actual honda tech. The only thing I would consider to be bad on the motor would be somthing in the dizzy.. hopefully nothing else is wrong..



    EDIT: Plugs are NGK R ZFR5F's
    Last edited by jdm>usdm; 06-13-2009 at 10:03 AM.


  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by green91
    I cant think of a single way that a tune could cause your engine to overheat as long as your cooling system is working properly. A lean mixture does cause hotter ignition temps, but should in NO way cause your car to overheat.

    Hmmm... well like I said it only over heats when it feels like it wont go anywhere.. like it really struggles and strains to accelerate... this has only happened a couple of times though. But I dont know what else beside the tune would cause it to act like that. Its just so random in the way it runs. I just took it out for a drive and everything ran beautifully


  21. #21
    yeahhhh...... Nick Jeezy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whatever210
    omg its nick jeezy! lol they dont have that damn maf like us lol. fuck them hondas and their map sensors lol. jk its fucked up. they blow a coupler and they can still drive. i blow a coupler and my car wont move lol

    haha yeah. i didnt know they had map sensors.

    but it could prolly still do that under a load.

  22. #22
    fuck it thug it JdM_EJ2's Avatar
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    i had the same problem on mine...i changed the rotor inside the dizzy and i was good to go

  23. #23
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    if the last turbo wouldn't spool at all and the new turbo spools up quick then there isn't going to be enough fuel down low=lean.

    you said aftermarket wires...hope they aren't bling fat wires. ngk or stock honda.

    it just had a swap...it sounds like the map and tps may be backwards. that might explain why light throttle it seems to be ok and then heavier throttle is runs crappy.

    overheating could be a lot of different things. was the coolant system bled? running a thermostat? bad headgasket, motor, etc.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by scttydb411
    if the last turbo wouldn't spool at all and the new turbo spools up quick then there isn't going to be enough fuel down low=lean.

    you said aftermarket wires...hope they aren't bling fat wires. ngk or stock honda.

    it just had a swap...it sounds like the map and tps may be backwards. that might explain why light throttle it seems to be ok and then heavier throttle is runs crappy.

    overheating could be a lot of different things. was the coolant system bled? running a thermostat? bad headgasket, motor, etc.

    Yeah theyre ngk wires. And I took my time on the swap. I labled the plugs on the wiring harness to be sure I didnt swap any around.


    And yes Im running a thermostat, and all of the air has been worked out of the system. The motor was rebuilt with stock internals just 20k miles ago. And ran perfectly before I dropped it into my car. I actually got the swap from Jenson, he was telling me that he knew you.

    But like I said its only tried to overheat just a couple of random times.. when the motor felt like it had alot of strain on it for whatever reason and it had a difficult time accelerating.

    Heres a link that the owner before me posted after he had you tune it on the 4 pounds... Im not sure if the dyno graph will be of any help in telling if it has a weird tune or not to accommodate for the junk turbo
    Turbo Question (Integra LS-T)



    But as soon as I get this straightend out, I plan on setting up a tuning appt with you sometime during the next few weeks. Ive heard nothing but good things about your ability to tune a honda


  25. #25
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    Could it be the fuel pump acting up?

    I know on my old bronco, before the fuel pump went out it was a dog at half throttle, and then picked up when you backed off of it.

    Sorry i'm not more of help, i'm sorta clueless on honda engines

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    oh yeah...that original turbo had a lot of shaft play and was hitting the housing causing no spool what-so-ever. a new good turbo on that tune will not be anywhere near what it needs to be.
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    Sounds sort of like the start of the problems me and andy had with our distributor. Try a new one?

  28. #28
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    Default Turbo...

    Hey Jdm>Usdm,

    Man, sorry to hear that you have had soo much trouble with this engine/turbo setup.
    Was the Turbonetics turbo and Blox manifold anygood? I even had that turbonetics turbo checked and they said it was good with no shaft play and that the manifold was solid. Sorry again to hear about the issues!! As always - let me know if i can do anything to help.
    Yeah, Scotty tuned it and he did an amazing job even tuning the turbo that was on there (Thanks Scotty) and i thank he tried extra hard cause i was getting so disappointed with something always going wrong. Then they build the custom down pipe and i bought the new/used turbo and manifold and just decided to sell before installing. But Scotty = on tuning!!

    The biggest thing i ever regretted was letting (BackYard) - "Specifically" OZ !!! - (I can't speak for the rest of them) swap my engine and add the turbo for trade of my JRSC and cash... Biggest mistake i've ever made!!

    But man i hope you get everything worked out and again, if there is anything i can help you with pm me!

  29. #29
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    also need to put ngk bkr7e plugs in...gap propperly

  30. #30

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    Sounds like you need to get it diagnosed on a dyno and then get it tuned. There is no reason that you cant take it to the dyno and get it fixed if it has problems. Even if its not tuning related. Any full service shop should be able to help you get it fixed the same day as your dyno appointment. Well, as long as they have the parts or can get the parts to fix it.


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