NA rotary

[J13eck]

im just looking for suggestions on what to do to get more power from a stock non-turbo 13b in an 1986 rx7

i was thinking about getting a rebuild, new trans, and street porting. thats all i got so far, oh and intake/exauhst. the motor runs great.. but i might aswell get a rebuild while porting. is it worth building this motor?

help is appreciatedthanks

[Lotte]

you should wait until the engine goes.

[J13eck]

what if i ported the current motor without rebuilding? if this motor goes i might aswell go TII but a nice TII motor would be hard to find. is yours NA?

[Tree]

3 rotor!! maybe 4

[On_Her_Face]

im just looking for suggestions on what to do to get more power from a stock non-turbo 13b in an 1986 rx7

i was thinking about getting a rebuild, new trans, and street porting. thats all i got so far, oh and intake/exauhst. the motor runs great.. but i might aswell get a rebuild while porting. is it worth building this motor?

help is appreciatedthanks

higher compression pistons will do the trick

[TheDarkRacer]

^^ cute.
before it blows:
street port it, rebuild, and get rx8 rotors if u can. Then ull have a nice NA. U should go to RX7club.com for better answers.

[J13eck]

higher compression pistons will do the trick

pssh, who needs pistons?

[Gilgamesh]

if you rebuild it before it goes im sure your builder will love you more.

but rebuild it, go large street port. S5 N/A rotors or rx8s. most importantly get a RB road race header and a aluminum flywheel. OH! and go standalone ecu

the aluminum flywheel is the most amazing thing on a N/A rotary

we have a stock atkins rebuild s4 na 13b on a megasquirt, with the road race header (its a road race rx3) aluminum flywheel and the dyno sheet on the motor is 150hp at 7k to the wheels on a dyno dynamics

[Boosted FC]

NOS

[livelifeenvy]

a rotary w/o turbo is worthless

[Brut]

a rotary w/o turbo is worthless

yeah and driving a ek thats an auto is useless too

[OneSlow5pt0]

a rotary w/o turbo is worthless

yea cause that little 2.6L N/A is trash

[SLOWR/T]

Buy another keg (rotor housings, rotors, e-shaft) and have it rebuilt. Then swap it over. You wont have as much down time and you'll have a extra motor

[eraser4g63]

www.FC3Spro.com

[wanksta]

there are things you can do before rebuild and port. focus on chassis not power. my 86 na makes 148 whp and is fun because it only weighs 2480 lbs. lots of usless crap under the hood to be deleted. def get header and exhaust and drop the 50 lbs of heat shields underneath. bring it in for some tuning. aluminum flywheel makes a big difference also.

[David88vert]

With a N/A, you need to free up the exhaust the most. Get a full RB exhaust, then spry on the car. It will handle it fine. I ran N/A rotarys for years, and learned a lot of tricks with them. Cheapest power (without a rebuild) is free the exhaust, and add the bottle.

[eraser4g63]

Listen to Wanksta he has done all the work on my 7, and is about to start tuning mine here next month.

[chava_rx7]

dnt spray ur rotary.. depends how much u spray youll blow it.. jus listen 2 wanksta im doing the same thing he rote...

[Boosted FC]

dnt spray ur rotary.. depends how much u spray youll blow it.. jus listen 2 wanksta im doing the same thing he rote...

You just don't know, do you ?

[boosted_nonv]

talk to some island people boi they know what to do with it, specifically puertoricans

[revsk8erdude]

those apex seals are gonna blow in a few years, no matter what you do to it..

save your money and get a ls1.

[HillClimbGuy]

sell your car an just buy a honda the rotary world is not a bolt on affair unlike honda it takes real time an work

[Elbow]

a rotary w/o turbo is worthless

****ing DUMB ASS

[wanksta]

sell your car an just buy a honda the rotary world is not a bolt on affair unlike honda it takes real time an work

dont listen to this guy, my rx-7 is nothing special and has beat its fair share of "bolt on" hondas. why would you want to be like everyone else anyway?

[HillClimbGuy]

dont listen to this guy, my rx-7 is nothing special and has beat its fair share of "bolt on" hondas. why would you want to be like everyone else anyway?

i said this because i own a rx7 an their is no easy cheap way too reilable power thats why i will respect a built up rotary any day more than a honda

[wanksta]

I own a couple. just tryin to help op out. rx-7s can be extremely reliable if you know whats up. what have u got done to yours?

[NovaScotia]

Throw a V8 in it... it'll be hilarious! anyway. def rebuild before it dumps out on you.... much better than working with anything broken on a 7.

[Boosted FC]

Throw a V8 in it... it'll be hilarious! anyway. def rebuild before it dumps out on you.... much better than working with anything broken on a 7.

Oh brother. Here we go....

[TheDarkRacer]

hehe *grabs popcorn*

[David88vert]

Throw a V8 in it... it'll be hilarious! anyway. def rebuild before it dumps out on you.... much better than working with anything broken on a 7.

Rebuilding a rotary is MUCH easier than rebuilding a piston motor. And NA rotarys rarely need to be rebuilt. I've had quite a few over 200K miles and still spraying and racing on them. You just have to know what you are doing. Timing and fuel supply are critical.

[Boosted FC]

hehe *grabs popcorn*

Make sure you get butter...

[spooled]

Convert to 4 port, then streetport or bridgeport it, ported exhaust, rebuild with lighter rotors and 3mm apex seals, convert to Carb and headers. You'll have ~ 180-200whp depending on which port type and how good your port work and port timing is done. And of course, expect to spend $$$ as with any N/A power buildup.

gl

[Gilgamesh]

4 port 13bs make the power... 3mm are not needed for NA but ceramic apex seals are used on NAs to save the housings incase of failure.

for street use go largest street port you can, but if its your weekend car then go bridgeport.

[Boosted FC]

Finally some sensible recommendations.

[Ehron]

Convert to 4 port, then streetport or bridgeport it, ported exhaust, rebuild with lighter rotors and 3mm apex seals, convert to Carb and headers. You'll have ~ 180-200whp depending on which port type and how good your port work and port timing is done. And of course, expect to spend $$$ as with any N/A power buildup.

gl

I like this response. I wouldn't carb it though personally as I am not familiar with them. Keep the fast response of fuel injection. Of course carbing would be cheaper than adding a stand alone unless you go with Megasquirt.

I second the response indicating that 3 mm seals are not required on a NA build.

[mr.koupe]

go see Alex on victory drive he can take care of you, its a big yellow building with imports and mini trucks in the front, possibly a yellow ferrari but it stays inside most of the time...
if you know guch he is another good source in town he has been building rotarys for years, pm importmyth01 on here his dad builds these things too, they are all local guys and will help you out man...

[Dave G.]

First thing. A previous poster stated that ceramics will prevent damage to housings. I believe that they meant carbon apex seals, because if a ceramic seal lets go, that half of the engine is ruined.

The most important thing to decide is what your budget is for upgrades. You can do anything from $100 to $40,000, but it will depend on if you have the funds to do these upgrades. I don't agree with 3mm seals unless you are using older rotors for some reason that came that way. Other than that, 3mm seals are used to cover poor tuning or a poor setup. They seal less and weigh more than 2mm seals. In a normally aspirated setup, you don't need anything more than 2mm seals. If you bridgeport, then you will need carbon or another 1 piece design seal. 4 port irons are the best for heavily modified N/A setups, and I would go with 89-91 N/A rotors, and if your budget allows, have Racing Beat make them super lightweight and balance the assembly. If your budget allows, get a good EFI stand alone system. The stock ECU can be used with piggy back units, but performance isn't near what it is with a stand alone EMS.

If budget isn't a problem, then get a full blown peripheral port 13B. Mine make approx 325hp at the flywheel with a good ECU, but the engine alone typically runs around the $10k to $12k range without the ECU. Or if you are looking for torque, then go with an N/A 20B

If you are limited on budget, then do the regular first things. The flywheel is the best bang for the buck upgrade there is on an N/A FC hands down.

Just my .02

[eraser4g63]

If you put a V8 in it the Rotary world will disown you. V8s in RX-7s are kinda like a circus act, everyone oohhs and aahhs but in the long run when you at home at night crying your self to sleep in bed you will be ALONE. Listen to Wanksta and Trini4U ( just met him today seems to know whats what) Like i said earlier Rob at Mainstream does all the work on my car and ill tell you what for stock turbo its a hell of a good time.

[Gilgamesh]

lol p-port might be a little extreme.... a road racer in my area has one and he put down 323/200 with a carb


cheapest route and easiest: street port the 6port, aluminum flywheel, piggy back or stand alone.... 175hp easy... at minumum

[Boosted FC]

First thing. A previous poster stated that ceramics will prevent damage to housings. I believe that they meant carbon apex seals, because if a ceramic seal lets go, that half of the engine is ruined.

The most important thing to decide is what your budget is for upgrades. You can do anything from $100 to $40,000, but it will depend on if you have the funds to do these upgrades. I don't agree with 3mm seals unless you are using older rotors for some reason that came that way. Other than that, 3mm seals are used to cover poor tuning or a poor setup. They seal less and weigh more than 2mm seals. In a normally aspirated setup, you don't need anything more than 2mm seals. If you bridgeport, then you will need carbon or another 1 piece design seal. 4 port irons are the best for heavily modified N/A setups, and I would go with 89-91 N/A rotors, and if your budget allows, have Racing Beat make them super lightweight and balance the assembly. If your budget allows, get a good EFI stand alone system. The stock ECU can be used with piggy back units, but performance isn't near what it is with a stand alone EMS.

If budget isn't a problem, then get a full blown peripheral port 13B. Mine make approx 325hp at the flywheel with a good ECU, but the engine alone typically runs around the $10k to $12k range without the ECU. Or if you are looking for torque, then go with an N/A 20B

If you are limited on budget, then do the regular first things. The flywheel is the best bang for the buck upgrade there is on an N/A FC hands down.

Just my .02

Who invited this guy to the party .