I am putting a motor in my teg but i dont know which block to use. I have a B20B that i will use until i save some money to build a motor. Should i use the b20 or build an LS/VTEC i dont know which way to go, any useful input will be appriciated.
B20/VTEC
LS/VTEC
Complete GS-R
I am putting a motor in my teg but i dont know which block to use. I have a B20B that i will use until i save some money to build a motor. Should i use the b20 or build an LS/VTEC i dont know which way to go, any useful input will be appriciated.
Just get a rotary man! you can get a whole car for like what you spend on a comple car get a first gen or second gen and for like 400 bucks you can make it as fast or faster than the car with the swapOriginally Posted by tippatone
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Boy, your better off doing drugs because there isn't any rehab or therapy for rotaries or boost.
Neither block is better than the other. Just use what you have. The gsr has some shitty oil squirters that you dont need if you are going with forged internals anyway. Hell a lot of people dont use them at all. People block them off anyway for the oil pressure.Originally Posted by tippatone
www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
Daily D: 2007 Dodge 2500 MEGA CAB, Cummins Turbo Diesel
B20Z with knife edged crank & forged internals, bored out with RSX-R pistons...skunk2 stage 2 cams & valvetrain in a polished & ported b16 head. OEM/Skunk2 intake manifold. Hondata or Motec. Minimum 200whp with a flat torque curve that maxes out halfway up the rpm range...
Last edited by speedminded; 07-31-2007 at 08:31 AM.
YES that is what is am talking about, good power without high rev, good
It's a strong "torquey" setup but always seem to run into cooling issues with the B20's. Seriously for the money just do a stock K20a2...more reliable with power and torque being just as good.Originally Posted by tippatone
LOL @ a n/a honda making good power w/o revving high.Originally Posted by tippatone
not so, my neighbor has a B20 in his civic. colling issues are non existant. the only problem was that the engine has a bad IAC so it fluctuates the idle alot. goes from like 400 rpms to 1200 rpms. he has a tendancy to stall it too, though ive never stalled it. i think he just doesnt know how to drive.
I'm talking about running it in a car that is run redlined for hours at a time. I base my decisions on setups that are race provenOriginally Posted by sullen
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Originally Posted by speedminded
ill give you that if it lasts through that treatment, itll last you on the street. but in reality, you will never use the motor in that manor on any street. ever. if people used their engines that way, im sure they would have a formula 1 engine swap available.![]()
i would like to see that swap someday.
Seen the setup i mentioned above but with dome top itr pistons in several 13 hour endurance races: alternator problem once, a lil grinding in 5th, and a few minor kinks but never an engine issue. Talking WOT for 13 hours straightOriginally Posted by sullen
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I would definately put a K into my teg if i had the$$$$ those things are a arm and a leg
I had a friend who had a B20 with a type-r head, his block had grooves in the cylinder walls, what causes that oil problem?
The VTEC conversion was probably done incorrectly.Originally Posted by tippatone
Thats what i thought or either a problem with oil flow
i didnt know the b20 stood up to all that, but you gotta give it its respect. WOT 13 hours straight, thats prety hard on any engine. and for it to only have those problems, thats pretty good man.
ah shit my bad i screwed up, just read what i wrote...only used the b20 block with sprint races (just a few hours at a time), the endurances are with a itr/b18c5 block it and never had problems with it.Originally Posted by sullen
H22 has a lot potential for NA, much cheaper than GSR.
D300s + MB-D10 |D90 + MB-D80 | 35mm f1.8G | 50mm f1.4D | 85mm f1.4D | 18-200mm VRII | 80-200mm f2.8D 2 rings| Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Kenko 2x TC | SU-800 | 2 x SB-R200 | SB-600 | SB-900 | Cybersync
w/ H23 blockOriginally Posted by xbn83
Seen a couple put out 250+whp.
H22/H23VTEC+H2B+B series LSD trannyYour car will be fasttt and you don't spend as much as other swaps.
D300s + MB-D10 |D90 + MB-D80 | 35mm f1.8G | 50mm f1.4D | 85mm f1.4D | 18-200mm VRII | 80-200mm f2.8D 2 rings| Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Kenko 2x TC | SU-800 | 2 x SB-R200 | SB-600 | SB-900 | Cybersync
Originally Posted by xbn83
I agree with the H series, but that h2b conversion is expensive...
Bullshit i did mine for under 2400! I was basically the founder of h2b for GA i was the first one and only one with the swap for about 4 1/2 months.Originally Posted by o_bomb
Last edited by Gr33n_EK9; 08-01-2007 at 07:36 PM.
I do rb20 and rb25 wiring into s13 and s14's 300.00 shipped 24hr turn around turn ket start guaranteed! PM me for more details!
Work in Progress
Good stuff, a good high torque motor
h22 sucks! one of the WORST motors Honda has put out, take that crap back to the lab
1996 4dr Integra
1992 Mr2 Turbo
RPM = Ruins People's Motors
Ohh really??? How so?
D300s + MB-D10 |D90 + MB-D80 | 35mm f1.8G | 50mm f1.4D | 85mm f1.4D | 18-200mm VRII | 80-200mm f2.8D 2 rings| Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Kenko 2x TC | SU-800 | 2 x SB-R200 | SB-600 | SB-900 | Cybersync
man just put a k24 from an accord off in it. They are $900 from H motors and I am sure a 5 speed from an ep3 is easy and cheap. It will have TONS for torque and pull pretty damn hard out of some turns. I remember my stock k20a2 in my eg was pretty torquey.
you sir are a dumbass!!!Originally Posted by Mr2raceworks
if you knew ANYTHING at all bout h22s you wouldnt talk so much shit, if you have money to build all motor correctly i say go with h22!!! i personally like my b series for boost but the h22 has good potential
mr2's suck take that damn shit box back to the lab! H22 is a great motor...how many b-series you see making 230whp on stock bottom ends. With just some head work and cams?! K-series yes BUT the H gives it a run for it's money! And if it's a H2B then that K is in trouble!Originally Posted by Mr2raceworks
I do rb20 and rb25 wiring into s13 and s14's 300.00 shipped 24hr turn around turn ket start guaranteed! PM me for more details!
HahaOriginally Posted by Gr33n_EK9
!
D300s + MB-D10 |D90 + MB-D80 | 35mm f1.8G | 50mm f1.4D | 85mm f1.4D | 18-200mm VRII | 80-200mm f2.8D 2 rings| Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Kenko 2x TC | SU-800 | 2 x SB-R200 | SB-600 | SB-900 | Cybersync
Plenty, get on honda-tech and don't use IA as your 100% pure source for HONDAS
Go to All Motor
then go to LS/Vtec HP Thread.....
My car doesn't look like a BOX, you are thinking of the Mk1, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm yeahh
Originally Posted by Gr33n_EK9
1996 4dr Integra
1992 Mr2 Turbo
RPM = Ruins People's Motors
true true! There are many many MANY examples of lsvtecs making 250+ all motor on HT. I had built the lsvtec in my hatchback to a dyno'd (abacus racing in VA beach) 215NAwhp before i got rid of it.Originally Posted by Mr2raceworks
and you can even take it a step further... the same company that made your H2B conversion plate (Gr33nEk9) also makes a conversion plate for a B2D swap... a slightly built lsvtec mated with a short geared D series transmission would ruin a H2Bs day.
-jonathan
[/URL]
Jesus Christ is my Savior
haha a built h-series makes 350+whp there's a shit load of them on H-T. B2D!!!!? Man the shortest d-series tranny is a ex/si tranny which those gears happen to be longer then a damn ls tranny. SOOOO why would you go b2d when there shortest geared tranny is just as long as a ls tranny?!Originally Posted by DB1_77
I do rb20 and rb25 wiring into s13 and s14's 300.00 shipped 24hr turn around turn ket start guaranteed! PM me for more details!
I LIVE on hondatech....not IA i see everything that goes on.Originally Posted by Mr2raceworks
I do rb20 and rb25 wiring into s13 and s14's 300.00 shipped 24hr turn around turn ket start guaranteed! PM me for more details!
Originally Posted by Gr33n_EK9
I would have to agree on this, the h2b setup is by far superior as far as all motor goes. And it costs a fraction of the price of k-series.
As for the poll, I would vote b18c1 GSR all day long, its straight from the factory, has good power, and is very reliable. This is a good route to follow seeing how you're on a budget. b20 and LS both have the same problem, the rods are weak and neither motor can withstand high rev, in that case a little more work has to be done.
LOL
You have no clue what you are talking about.
"the rods are weak and neither motor can withstand high rev" Ummm... So buy some better rods, and UMMMM UMMM get an Eagle Crank... DUH
what else you got?
Originally Posted by IntegraXTR
1996 4dr Integra
1992 Mr2 Turbo
RPM = Ruins People's Motors
dude are you fukin stupid? I would stay with a OEM crank all damn day and fuking then some before I get a eagle crank. Second, I wouldnt have to rev high in a H22 to make power dumass, the h2b was designed to take the power of a H, with the revs of a B to utilize its full potential. Do some fukin research moron before you try to make a comeback.Originally Posted by Mr2raceworks
Oh, since I don't know what I'm talking about, why don't you bring your shitbox mr2 out and find out.
Last edited by IntegraXTR; 08-03-2007 at 09:49 PM.
The race team i crew for was sponsored by Honda, they had a Speedvision Cup Prelude championship car and Honda was shipping them new engines and parts ALL the time...constantly...for ONE car! They are weak engines in stock form, good power and torque but cannot withstand abuse like a b-series. They have to be built, and built right with little expense spared.Originally Posted by Mr2raceworks
K24 sound like alot of bread to put together