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Thread: hoping to make 300whp

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    Certified Gearhead Acrite3404's Avatar
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    Default hoping to make 300whp

    ok first im new to the turbo scene i was an allmotor guy so i believe its a t3/t4 turbo thats what it states as the part# and as the type it says T04E but on the intake side its a .50ar and on the exhaust side its a .63ar my build is gonna be forged arias 81.50 9:1 pistons with eagle forged rods, 880 precision injectors FMIC dont have the excat dimensions on the intercooler, XS power blow off, Tial wastegate, 3" 5bolt downpipe, blitz sbc type s digital boost controller, Hondata s200 wit boost option and other options jus dont remember. well like the title states im hoping to make 300hp or more but i would like 300 to be my baseline i plan on max boosting at 17lbs. all of this will be on an Ls stock head for now. cruising around on 8-9lbs

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    nice, what type of car?

    also don't ruin your good build with that ebay turbo, you can keep the IC, the piping, even the bov(some ppl question this, but I have had good results as well as people i know)... the manifolds suck (but if you're on a budget, just weld some bracing on it, they dont usually crack on the welds they crack because they use aluminum foil-thin metal lol... so when they shake and vibrate they crack so just weld it together so its 1 rigid structure so it doesnt bend or shake at all... and then get a decent maybe used T3, from maybe a volvo or something (surprisingly you can get a GOOD turbonetics t3/t4 on ebay for around 3-400 bux now a days, just gotta keep looking)

    That ebay "T04E" usually has a blue or black tag on it that says "turbocharger" they even stamp the AirResearch emblem on some of their parts, but its all BS, theres so much bad shit that can happen that'll totally fuck up your $$ build so for an extra few hundred bux you'll be waaaay happier in the long run, thats my opinion... also those ebay T04e's come with a GIANT turbine wheel, with big gaps, so unless you're revving to like 9k on your honda, its useless.... I compared it side by side to a turbonetics stage three and they were about the same.

    Instead get one with a smaller, more restrictive turbine wheel.... you'll be happier man trust me...I have a friend with that turbo on a GSR and he doesn't hit 10psi til about 5500rpm, which sucks.


    but yeah sounds like a good build, get a afm fuel pump too

    Good luck

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    Certified Gearhead Acrite3404's Avatar
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    it was my friends turbo he had it rebuilt with turbonetics internals. the turbine wheel gaps are not big at all.

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    thanx for the info though

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    Quote Originally Posted by Acrite3404
    it was my friends turbo he had it rebuilt with turbonetics internals. the turbine wheel gaps are not big at all.
    I hope you arent misinterpreting this as hating or nothing

    Turbonetics internals? Maybe the seals and bearings, but what will that do? The ebay fake turbo's also use real garret bearings and seals. I'm talking about the housings themselves crack in those turbos... If you want I can pull a link of a guy who analyzed them.

    I am speaking from experience by the way. I had both turbos on my car before, the ebay "t04E" and a turbonetics "to4B" both .63 a/r housing, the turbine wheel on the ebay turbo was just about the same as a spare turbonetics stage 3 turbine I had laying around.... I have a turbonetics stage 1 wheel and housing in mine now and spool time went from 10psi at ~4900 rpm(stage 3) to 11.5psi at 3200rpm(stage 1)

    By turbine wheel gap, i'm not talking about between the wheel and the turbine housing, i'm talking about the geometry of the fins to where air can escape between the fins... thats what determines spoolup and maxout. If its more restrictive, it'll top out quicker but spool quicker.
    But yeah good luck as I said.


    But these are just some pointers, if You wanna throw the t04e do it, some people have success for those, but to me its not worth the savings ya know For an extra 100-200 bux your entire setup will be exponentially better for what you want to do.

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    i'd probably ditch the ebay bov too...they usually leak under boost or leak at the head causing a vac leak.
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    Everything they said, Also those injectors sound extremely large for that setup. But good luck with everything, where are you getting the work done?

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    sounds like you are heading in the right direction. Your setup should make that, i think your injectors are right on...better you have to large of an injector than to small, those are good for about 550-600. As for base lining at 300, thats bad, usually you would want to tune first before doing a pull to even make 300...hell ive made like 200 at 15 psi with vtec turned off before because shit is just wierd when nothing is right in the tune at first.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandomGuy
    I hope you arent misinterpreting this as hating or nothing

    Turbonetics internals? Maybe the seals and bearings, but what will that do? The ebay fake turbo's also use real garret bearings and seals. I'm talking about the housings themselves crack in those turbos... If you want I can pull a link of a guy who analyzed them.

    I am speaking from experience by the way. I had both turbos on my car before, the ebay "t04E" and a turbonetics "to4B" both .63 a/r housing, the turbine wheel on the ebay turbo was just about the same as a spare turbonetics stage 3 turbine I had laying around.... I have a turbonetics stage 1 wheel and housing in mine now and spool time went from 10psi at ~4900 rpm(stage 3) to 11.5psi at 3200rpm(stage 1)

    By turbine wheel gap, i'm not talking about between the wheel and the turbine housing, i'm talking about the geometry of the fins to where air can escape between the fins... thats what determines spoolup and maxout. If its more restrictive, it'll top out quicker but spool quicker.
    But yeah good luck as I said.


    But these are just some pointers, if You wanna throw the t04e do it, some people have success for those, but to me its not worth the savings ya know For an extra 100-200 bux your entire setup will be exponentially better for what you want to do.
    no i didnt take it as hating at all.

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    Certified Gearhead Acrite3404's Avatar
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    i plan on tuning it after it is put together. its a local shop in cali thats doing my work J&J performance very well know has done all my work on my allmotor Ls that dyno'd at 182whp

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    You should be able to make that power easily. We have done a few LS that made in the 330whp range on pump gas. However, I think you will max out just above that if the head and cams are stock. The LS head does not flow enough to make much more then that. You could get a P8R head off the B20 and may make a little more power. Later.
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    yea i planed on doin head work after im done getting the motor done cams and valve springs, reatiners ect...

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    If you are going to use the knock off turbo, be sure to run a restrictor with it as well. That way it'll have it's longevity.

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    what do you mean restrictor?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Acrite3404
    yea i planed on doin head work after im done getting the motor done cams and valve springs, reatiners ect...
    What I meant by head work is a port job and bigger valves. Even if you do cams and retainers to allow for higher revs the actual ports on the head cannot flow enough air to make much power at the higher rpms. Ask Sleeper, he learned the hard way.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acrite3404
    yea i planed on doin head work after im done getting the motor done cams and valve springs, reatiners ect...
    i wouldnt waste your time with doing anything to the LS head.

    Stock VTEC heads (stock ports, stock cams, stock springs ) can do 600whp .

    A stock ported ls head, even with big cams, will make MAYBE 400whp if you run a shit ton of boost through it.

    iloveboost made 630whp with a LSmotor. he had a $3000 ported head from DFE Enterprises that was prob the baddest LS head on the planet. he had 404 cams too.

    Spoolin made 630whp with a stock Vtec head.

    a stock vtec goes for $500

    its not worth it to stay LS if you want to go over 350whp, not unless you want to be different.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acrite3404
    what do you mean restrictor?
    its a little thing that lowers the oil pressure going into the turbo, keeps you from blowing seals, etc when the pressure gets real high.

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    only ball bearing turbos need restrictors, for standard bearings, a -3 line should be all the restriction you need. turbos RELY on OIL PRESSURE TO SPOOL PROPERLY, they float on a cushion of oil just like your rod bearings and such(except ball bearing turbos)

    but you did say knock off, those are POS's that have shit seals.
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    The .63 housing is kinda big for the street on a 1.8 with a power goal of 300. The exhaust housing will swap out with a brand name turbo, so long as the stages are the same, if you wanted to run a .48, which would meet your goal of 300 and give you better responce for the street, then you could swap housings out again as you power goals went up. Ebay wonderspool turbos work, but it's a knock off of an older design most notably the turbine wheel. They spool quick(er) but strugle up top compared to newer turbine designs because they use more blades.

    I ran a restrictor for 7,000 miles on an Ebay wonderspool before I upgraded the turbo. The "filter" that comes screwed into all new Turbonetics turbos, guess what, it also acts as a restrictor.




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    Certified Gearhead Acrite3404's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
    only ball bearing turbos need restrictors, for standard bearings, a -3 line should be all the restriction you need. turbos RELY on OIL PRESSURE TO SPOOL PROPERLY, they float on a cushion of oil just like your rod bearings and such(except ball bearing turbos)

    but you did say knock off, those are POS's that have shit seals.
    Well when I got the turbo it was used one of my boi's had so I took it to my mechanic to have it rebuilt so I don't think it has those seals I believe he told me he got some seals and stuff from turbonetics.

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    Certified Gearhead Acrite3404's Avatar
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    Look bout the vtec thing you tryin to convert me from all Ls to vtec is like tryin to turn a Baptist to a Muslim its not gonna happen I'm fine wit 400whp I don't need 600 to be driven on the street. And please don't take this as a dis. Jus not a big fan of Lsv

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    so since its an ebay turbo should i get the restricter or will the -3an feed line be enough

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    what brand is the turbo? my friend used an xs power and a -3 and it was alright for a long time.
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    i believe it is a xs power

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