2" pipping is good up to 250hp if i rememeber correctly. 60mm(2.36") is perfect and 2.5" should be ok. here's a little info:



Exhaust Basics







The most commonly talked about modification, there are many myths and speculation



regarding exhausts, so let's start of clean shall we? Yeah that's right, anything you might

have in your head about what makes a good exhaust system whether it be thoughts on

pipe size or misunderstanding of back pressure just forget about it for now.

The exhaust is responsible for carrying and expelling waste gases away from the engine

as well as silencing the engine's noise output. Gasses leave the combustion chamber

under extreme pressure and enter into the exhaust manifold. After the exhaust manifold

joins the gasses from all the cylinders together, the gasses enter the catalytic converter

where they undergo a process discussed in our Catalytic Converter (coming soon) article.

After the gasses exit the catalytic converter, they enter into the B-pipe where there is

usually a resonator to help silence some of the noise caused by the escaping of the

pressurized gasses. After that the gasses enter into a specialized muffler where the

majority of the silencing occurs and then are expelled out into the air.





The Basics







This here is a simplified picture showing one of the four cylinders inside our engines. The



piston in this picture has begun it's intake stroke and air is starting to enter the

combustion chamber. So what does this have to do with exhausts? Well look at the

exhaust valve, you can see that it is still open even though the piston already completed

it's exhaust stroke. This is called valve overlap and is necessary for high revving engines

such as B-Series Honda Engines. At high RPMs, air is being pushed out the combustion

chamber so fast that not all of the air can escape in time after the piston completes it's

stroke. The overlapping period as you see here allows the momentum of the air to keep

moving it out of the chamber even though the piston already has started creating a

vacuum with it's intake stroke. This works great at high RPM's, but what about the low

RPMs? The air is usually not moving fast enough for the overlapping period to be

beneficial so if exhaust gasses aren't moved quickly through the exhaust, the vacuum

created by the piston's intake stroke can actually suck some exhaust gas back into the

combustion chamber. This is how aftermarket exhausts can cause a loss in low end

power. Incorrectly sized exhaust pipes can disrupt the airflow, allowing exhaust gasses to

be sucked back in during this valve overlap period. Obviously we don't want already

burnt, noxious gasses to mix with our fresh air/fuel mixture so it is very important to have

a properly tuned exhaust for the right application.

To understand how to properly tune an exhaust you must first understand exactly how the

gasses will be flowing through it. Exhaust gasses do not flow in one continuous stream

they get shot out in pulses. Each time a valve opens and gas is pushed out of the

combustion chamber, it creates a pulse. As you can see from the picture, the head of the

exhaust pulse remains at a high pressure after it is shoved out of the combustion chamber.

The center of the pulse is closer to the ambient pressure of the exhaust system and the tail

turns into a low pressure vacuum.

Now look at these exhaust pulses all lined up as they travel through the exhaust. This

would be an exhaust system which was sized perfectly for the car at the right RPM. The

pulses, to an extent, will move through the B-pipe to the muffler by themselves. But we

want the exhaust gasses to travel as fast as they possibly can. How can we get them

moving faster? Well you get them to line up like shown, and the pulses will then pull

each other through. As with most naturally occurring phenomenon, opposites will attract.

The high pressure heads are pulled into the low pressure, almost vacuum-like tails. So

each pulse will follow after the other, effectively leading each other to the muffler and

away from the engine.





Pipe Sizing







In a perfect exhaust system with the engine at the right RPM, all the heads would line up



perfectly with the tails of the exhaust gas pulses. Of course in real life this can't always be

that way but that's why we must choose our pipe diameter carefully. In the lower RPMs,

pulses are smaller, and further apart. When you rev up into the high RPMs, pulses get

bigger and closer together. So we want to keep the small, spread out exhaust pulses in

line in the low RPMs but we also want to accommodate the larger, quicker pulses in the

high RPMs. For this reason we have to decide what pipe size will give us the best tradeoff

of low-end vs. high-end power so we can get the highest total HP increase possible

throughout the RPM range.

We see here a restrictive stock exhaust system. In the low RPMs, this tight formation of

pulses becomes an advantage as it keeps them close together so they can pull each other

through the exhaust rather than lingering around. However as the RPMs rise, the pulses

become closer and closer together, raising back pressure to restrict the piston in pushing

out more exhaust gasses.

Here you can see a correctly sized exhaust system. The backpressure is minimized as

much as possible while allowing pulses to line up nicely and provides a good trade-off

between both low and high-end power. For most N/A applications this pipe size would be

2.25" in diameter. A common mistake sometimes talked about in "tuner" magazines is

that you need some back pressure for the system to flow properly. This is a myth created

by amateur testing methods. You can see the exhaust here is properly sized and will get

the best performance out of any other sizes, bigger or smaller. So because it outperforms

the bigger exhaust they just assume that backpressure was the key to success here. As you

can see from this picture, they are wrong. The reason this exhaust performed the best was

because the pules were perfectly in line and able to draw each other out of the exhaust at

the highest velocity possible.

Now we are looking at the opposite end of the spectrum from advice commonly given by

"tuner" magazines. "The bigger exhaust you have the better it flows and you have no

back pressure anymore so you make tons more power." Yeah right. Funny how these

"tuner" magazines will say something on one page and then say something opposite on

the next. And yeah I keep putting "tuner" in quotes because I'm being sarcastic. I honestly

think most of those magazines are a joke. Anyway in an exhaust system that is too big,

the pulses get disorganized and don't follow each other in line. Some of the pulses will

bounce around, causing exhaust gasses to hang around in the exhaust pipe with little

forward motion. These gasses are susceptible to being sucked back into the combustion

chamber on the piston's intake stroke, diluting the fresh air/fuel mixture and ultimately

causing power loss. So while you have minimized backpressure even further with an

over-sized pipe, you did so at the price of disorganizing the exhaust pulses.





Forced Induction







Gasses exiting the combustion chamber of an N/A car are already under very high



pressure, which is what creates the exhaust pulse in the first place. Turbos and

Superchargers can raise that pressure dramatically, causing much bigger pulses. Because

of the larger pulse sizes, you can see that having larger exhaust pipe sizes are okay.





Mufflers







This is a picture of an OEM muffler. These decrease noise by reflecting pulses into each



other which causes "destructive interference". Basically if a sound wave runs into another

sound wave of the same frequency and opposite phase, then the sound waves are

cancelled out and no noise is heard. Of course no muffler can ever do this perfectly so

there is still sound to be heard. The performance of these mufflers as you can guess is less

than wonderful. The air is forced into many dead-end chambers, creating backpressure

and making it difficult for the air to flow through smoothly. Sounds like the stock muffler

sucks, and maybe just changing the muffler will give us good performance gains right?

Wrong.

This would be another one for the Magazine Mechanics. "This muffler will reduce back

pressure and you'll see at least 15-20HP with this ultimate free flowing design!" By now

I hope we can see what a big fat load of crap that is. In the stock exhaust system, the

pulses have already been jammed together, and the backpressure has already affected the

engine. So you change your muffler to a better flowing one, so what? The amount of back

pressure in the exhaust system remains unchanged. You're just putting a fire hose at the

end of a garden hose, the flow remains unchanged. So unless your exhaust has reduced

back pressure enough so that the muffler becomes a restriction, then changing the muffler




to a "free flowing" design will have no effect on real-world performance.