Best N/A exhaust

[torqlswonder]

hey IA i have ben oing some research lately and iwas wondering what you guys thought about the subject. i have a bone stock gsr and i want to begin with the exhaust. btw i want to go n/a wiht this car. what do you guys recomend as far as exhaust i have some ideas but i just want IA's 2 cents at the moment money is not an issue because i dont have any and i am going to just do the research to see how much i need so what do you guys think?

[torqlswonder]

here are some exhausts that i think might be good and of course im going to go wit a 2.5inch pipe (unless there is a better size)

HKS Hi-power
Apexi WS II

does anybody have any ideas on what is best?

[bigdare23]

buddyclub 2

[The BUCKY]

mugen twin loop. get the real deal not the ebay shit. i had one and loved it

[twinj]

HKS/HI POWER
-Nice sound
-Nice Performer
-Nice Look
-Nice(LOL)
Everyday of the week.

[IntegraXTR]

I have a HKS Hi-power full catback on my dc2 right now.....wanna buy it? kinda tired of it.

[torqlswonder]

how much?? what condition is it in???

[§treet_§peed]

EBAY HEADER WITH STOCK SIZE STRAIGHT PIPE WITH EXHOUST LEAK WITH A EBAY MUFFLER!!!!!!!! ISNTaant 50 WHP AND WTQ GAIN!!! AND MADE JDM FLAMES WHEN IT BACK FIRES FROMT TEH EXHAUST LEAK YO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BE JSUT LIKE THEM IN F&F SHOTTIN MAD JDM TYTE FLAMES YO!!!!!

[twinj]

^^^^LIRL

[KevinT707]

IMO I don't see the point in paying $400+ for JDM tyte exhaust that will make the same power as just buying a universal muffler and getting a shop to make a custom 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust for a lot cheaper..

[§treet_§peed]

SOOOO just do what i said

[_Christian_]

these tend to work really well

[BTLFED]

these tend to work really well

Oh my G20! A P11 one at that lol

[twinj]

OMG

[NAIZBST]

Fujitsubo RM01A exhaust.....lol

[§treet_§peed]

wo

[bigdare23]

LOL damn!

[Mr.Leftlane]

I'm running 2.5" piping, ebay hi flow cat, resignator, and a 40 series flowmaster. Sounds slightly like a Lambo (minus 8 cylinders). A good sleeper set up, quite up until around 4500 and still mild but aggressive. I can answer my son's 50 questions a minute without yelling.

[all-mota]

if you want a pre made cat back check out T1r and the rsr exmag gt2 both are a good choice and are both 2.5 inches.

but i would personally go the cheaper route and just have one made or just buy a kit from kteller.com

[Crazy Asian]

What he said or if you want to get a Mugen copy and a really good company. check out Hytech. They have the Mugen muffller copy and all you need is KTELLER piping. I heard a Prelude with that sounded like a Mugen but more aggressive when WOT. I have a custom 2.5 no resonator...need to get one.

[an0therh22]

i have an evo2 carback, magnaflow cat, and some no brand header. sounds awesome but to loud for my gf. when i get my teg im just gunna keep the exhaust stock.

[§treet_§peed]

you have a evo2 carback??? wow taht must be that new shit i heard about!!!

[an0therh22]

you have a evo2 carback??? wow taht must be that new shit i heard about!!!

yea man its top of the line stuff. deletes all the unnessesary things. CATBACK!!

[Vteckidd]

Check out the new Mega Power R exhausts from Skunk2. i just ordered one for a customer that owns my old 240whp motor.

they are 70mm or 2in 3/4. Stainless steel, and CHEAP, PM me for pricing

[§treet_§peed]

Mike.. your homo.. J/k..

[-S Double C-]

The T1R 70mm (2.75 inch) is the best exhaust on the market in my honest opinion. It has been proven to make 10-17 whp more then it's competitors on more the one occasion. The price tag for it is about 900 though

[twinj]

^^ damn, didn't know that. Well hope they keep they word

[Da_unknown]

for real 900 bucks, yeah ok...

[§treet_§peed]

ha werd

[ash7]

Thermal Research exhaust is hardcore...

sounds nice and deep. And it puts down decent gains.

[nsxtcy21]

My vote. Screw the catback.. if you're going to do all motor- might as well do it right.. headers and exhaust from a respectable company are going to cost you somewhere around 600-700.. might as well spend a little more and get something that'll do more than just make a buncha buzzing noise

[-S Double C-]

^^^haha i agreed if you want to sound like a plane

[preferredduck]

i'm running a greddy evo2 and a dc 4-1 header on a jdm b16. the sound is real good. doesn't sound like a pissed off bumble bee. or spend the money on the mugen

[boostedb16]

i like my apexi n1.

[Extrememustang]

ebay exhaust,LOL

[T34me]

planning on Tanabe super hyper medallion, search it on utube, sounds pretty good

[nreggie454]

I have Apexi WS2 and I really like it.

[remoer]

2" pipping is good up to 250hp if i rememeber correctly. 60mm(2.36") is perfect and 2.5" should be ok. here's a little info:

Exhaust Basics

The most commonly talked about modification, there are many myths and speculation



regarding exhausts, so let's start of clean shall we? Yeah that's right, anything you might

have in your head about what makes a good exhaust system whether it be thoughts on

pipe size or misunderstanding of back pressure just forget about it for now.

The exhaust is responsible for carrying and expelling waste gases away from the engine

as well as silencing the engine's noise output. Gasses leave the combustion chamber

under extreme pressure and enter into the exhaust manifold. After the exhaust manifold

joins the gasses from all the cylinders together, the gasses enter the catalytic converter

where they undergo a process discussed in our Catalytic Converter (coming soon) article.

After the gasses exit the catalytic converter, they enter into the B-pipe where there is

usually a resonator to help silence some of the noise caused by the escaping of the

pressurized gasses. After that the gasses enter into a specialized muffler where the

majority of the silencing occurs and then are expelled out into the air.

The Basics

This here is a simplified picture showing one of the four cylinders inside our engines. The



piston in this picture has begun it's intake stroke and air is starting to enter the

combustion chamber. So what does this have to do with exhausts? Well look at the

exhaust valve, you can see that it is still open even though the piston already completed

it's exhaust stroke. This is called valve overlap and is necessary for high revving engines

such as B-Series Honda Engines. At high RPMs, air is being pushed out the combustion

chamber so fast that not all of the air can escape in time after the piston completes it's

stroke. The overlapping period as you see here allows the momentum of the air to keep

moving it out of the chamber even though the piston already has started creating a

vacuum with it's intake stroke. This works great at high RPM's, but what about the low

RPMs? The air is usually not moving fast enough for the overlapping period to be

beneficial so if exhaust gasses aren't moved quickly through the exhaust, the vacuum

created by the piston's intake stroke can actually suck some exhaust gas back into the

combustion chamber. This is how aftermarket exhausts can cause a loss in low end

power. Incorrectly sized exhaust pipes can disrupt the airflow, allowing exhaust gasses to

be sucked back in during this valve overlap period. Obviously we don't want already

burnt, noxious gasses to mix with our fresh air/fuel mixture so it is very important to have

a properly tuned exhaust for the right application.

To understand how to properly tune an exhaust you must first understand exactly how the

gasses will be flowing through it. Exhaust gasses do not flow in one continuous stream

they get shot out in pulses. Each time a valve opens and gas is pushed out of the

combustion chamber, it creates a pulse. As you can see from the picture, the head of the

exhaust pulse remains at a high pressure after it is shoved out of the combustion chamber.

The center of the pulse is closer to the ambient pressure of the exhaust system and the tail

turns into a low pressure vacuum.

Now look at these exhaust pulses all lined up as they travel through the exhaust. This

would be an exhaust system which was sized perfectly for the car at the right RPM. The

pulses, to an extent, will move through the B-pipe to the muffler by themselves. But we

want the exhaust gasses to travel as fast as they possibly can. How can we get them

moving faster? Well you get them to line up like shown, and the pulses will then pull

each other through. As with most naturally occurring phenomenon, opposites will attract.

The high pressure heads are pulled into the low pressure, almost vacuum-like tails. So

each pulse will follow after the other, effectively leading each other to the muffler and

away from the engine.

Pipe Sizing

In a perfect exhaust system with the engine at the right RPM, all the heads would line up



perfectly with the tails of the exhaust gas pulses. Of course in real life this can't always be

that way but that's why we must choose our pipe diameter carefully. In the lower RPMs,

pulses are smaller, and further apart. When you rev up into the high RPMs, pulses get

bigger and closer together. So we want to keep the small, spread out exhaust pulses in

line in the low RPMs but we also want to accommodate the larger, quicker pulses in the

high RPMs. For this reason we have to decide what pipe size will give us the best tradeoff

of low-end vs. high-end power so we can get the highest total HP increase possible

throughout the RPM range.

We see here a restrictive stock exhaust system. In the low RPMs, this tight formation of

pulses becomes an advantage as it keeps them close together so they can pull each other

through the exhaust rather than lingering around. However as the RPMs rise, the pulses

become closer and closer together, raising back pressure to restrict the piston in pushing

out more exhaust gasses.

Here you can see a correctly sized exhaust system. The backpressure is minimized as

much as possible while allowing pulses to line up nicely and provides a good trade-off

between both low and high-end power. For most N/A applications this pipe size would be

2.25" in diameter. A common mistake sometimes talked about in "tuner" magazines is

that you need some back pressure for the system to flow properly. This is a myth created

by amateur testing methods. You can see the exhaust here is properly sized and will get

the best performance out of any other sizes, bigger or smaller. So because it outperforms

the bigger exhaust they just assume that backpressure was the key to success here. As you

can see from this picture, they are wrong. The reason this exhaust performed the best was

because the pules were perfectly in line and able to draw each other out of the exhaust at

the highest velocity possible.

Now we are looking at the opposite end of the spectrum from advice commonly given by

"tuner" magazines. "The bigger exhaust you have the better it flows and you have no

back pressure anymore so you make tons more power." Yeah right. Funny how these

"tuner" magazines will say something on one page and then say something opposite on

the next. And yeah I keep putting "tuner" in quotes because I'm being sarcastic. I honestly

think most of those magazines are a joke. Anyway in an exhaust system that is too big,

the pulses get disorganized and don't follow each other in line. Some of the pulses will

bounce around, causing exhaust gasses to hang around in the exhaust pipe with little

forward motion. These gasses are susceptible to being sucked back into the combustion

chamber on the piston's intake stroke, diluting the fresh air/fuel mixture and ultimately

causing power loss. So while you have minimized backpressure even further with an

over-sized pipe, you did so at the price of disorganizing the exhaust pulses.

Forced Induction

Gasses exiting the combustion chamber of an N/A car are already under very high



pressure, which is what creates the exhaust pulse in the first place. Turbos and

Superchargers can raise that pressure dramatically, causing much bigger pulses. Because

of the larger pulse sizes, you can see that having larger exhaust pipe sizes are okay.

Mufflers

This is a picture of an OEM muffler. These decrease noise by reflecting pulses into each



other which causes "destructive interference". Basically if a sound wave runs into another

sound wave of the same frequency and opposite phase, then the sound waves are

cancelled out and no noise is heard. Of course no muffler can ever do this perfectly so

there is still sound to be heard. The performance of these mufflers as you can guess is less

than wonderful. The air is forced into many dead-end chambers, creating backpressure

and making it difficult for the air to flow through smoothly. Sounds like the stock muffler

sucks, and maybe just changing the muffler will give us good performance gains right?

Wrong.

This would be another one for the Magazine Mechanics. "This muffler will reduce back

pressure and you'll see at least 15-20HP with this ultimate free flowing design!" By now

I hope we can see what a big fat load of crap that is. In the stock exhaust system, the

pulses have already been jammed together, and the backpressure has already affected the

engine. So you change your muffler to a better flowing one, so what? The amount of back

pressure in the exhaust system remains unchanged. You're just putting a fire hose at the

end of a garden hose, the flow remains unchanged. So unless your exhaust has reduced

back pressure enough so that the muffler becomes a restriction, then changing the muffler




to a "free flowing" design will have no effect on real-world performance.

[Vteckidd]

2in piping is good for 150whp.

anything 150+ you want 2.5 in exhaust . anything over 200whp i would run 2.75+

[remoer]

2in piping is good for 150whp.

anything 150+ you want 2.5 in exhaust . anything over 200whp i would run 2.75+

my bad. i was thinking of, 2.25" is efficient to 240hp. effecient is the magic word.