I remember Ed (Senf) saying he likes dynojets for tuning anything other than WOT. The roller does a good job of simulating loads and decel etc. that the car would see on the street. But I could imagine if you were building a road race engine or drag engine you'd want to maximize torque under WOT in a certain rpm range, and a dynapack is probably best for that?
based on your graph i would stop revving at 7800-8000 and get a better final drive and get different gears to cut down your RPM drop. Theres no reason to rev past 8000 as your tq drops off hard. all youre doing revving that high is compensating for the time it takes you to shift. But you can see you make peak TQ around 5000rpms, and then it rapidly falls off.
IMO youd be faster shifting at 8000 (falling back to 7500) then shifting at 8500 and falling back to 8000.
Thats assuming a 500 rpm drop (which its prob more than that)
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actually usually the Dynapacs read HIGHER. Churchs Automotive out in cali routinely puts out retarded high cars. Like a stock K20 RSX type-S making 260whp, i mean go read what they turn out. But dynapacs IMO usually read more between flywheel hp, and whp. Somwhere in the middle.
Case in point Knowledge Performance had a dynapac and someone had a b16 with I/h/e and it put down 172whp. I was like "no way, no B16 has ever made over 160whp with just i/h/e" at mainstream. I invited the guy to come to mainstream, he did, it put down 153whp. Almost a 20whp difference.
As for dyno dynamics, i do not know why they read lower, david has more experience so ill let him chime in before i assume and look like a dumbass lol
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Each dyno manufactuer has different ways of doing calculations - don't get caught up on that though. It doesn't matter if your number is higher or lower on different dynos - what matters is that you get maximum cylinder pressure across the entire rpm spread. A dyno is just a tuning device, and the best dyno is the one that helps you find the VE number that you make.
For that reason, I suggest that you chose one dyno for comparisons, and stick with it. For me, I like to use the DynoJet at Dynolab to make comparisons, as it has been around the longest, and has not changed in all these years. I can tune any car on any dyno, and then if I want to compare to a previous car or setting - I have it already logged at Dynolab as well.
BTW - Even different versions of DynoJets can give different numbers - the dyno operator can easily change the setup factors.
Now, in answer to your original question - here is where you can learn about the differences in the dynos:
http://www.efi101.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=29
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
still i wouldnt rev a 2.4l with a 99mm stroke much past 8000 or youre going to be rebuilding the motor quite often. Unless you dry sump it. (unless they have fixed something with the K motors and their oiling problems).
And its pretty evident based on your graph that you arent going to make much power past 8000 no matter what you do. you make peak power around 7500-7600 (unless my eyes are bad). Extending that power PAST 8000 is going to be hard and if you do it prob wont be significant. I bet youll end up making MORE POWER but prob around the same RPM. May peak around 8000 but even then , its not your whp thats dropping off a cliff its your TQ. It falls almost 50 ftlbs from 7000-8500. Your hp kinda plateaus meaning either you are holding it back (restriction somewhere) or thats all its gonna make.
I think you would be better served shifting earlier and getting a 5.0+ final drive. But you wanna run nitrous too so you dont wanna have it too short geared.
more power on the existing gearing wont necessarily make it much faster.
IMO of course
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Its called using a a2 pump or moddified s2000 pump and 99+mm strokes can go 9-10000 all day! depending which pump u use
Well whats on the graph is all i'm ever gonna makeAnd its pretty evident based on your graph that you arent going to make much power past 8000 no matter what you do. you make peak power around 7500-7600 (unless my eyes are bad). Extending that power PAST 8000 is going to be hard and if you do it prob wont be significant. I bet youll end up making MORE POWER but prob around the same RPM. May peak around 8000 but even then , its not your whp thats dropping off a cliff its your TQ. It falls almost 50 ftlbs from 7000-8500. Your hp kinda plateaus meaning either you are holding it back (restriction somewhere) or thats all its gonna make.
I think you would be better served shifting earlier and getting a 5.0+ final drive. But you wanna run nitrous too so you dont wanna have it too short geared.
more power on the existing gearing wont necessarily make it much faster.
IMO of course![]()
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I always HEARD the oiling problems were never solved even with the A2 or S2000 pumps. It wasnt a pressure problem it was a lubrication problem. But i think that was more on the road race engines than the drag or street car stuff. Road race is much more harsh.
I dunno i would just be weary of 9000-10000 rpm 99mm strokes, thats a lot of piston speed and stress lol
Good luck though im sure youll let us know how it turns out :P
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Oiling problem in the k24 has been found, but does his engine builder know the solution??
EDIT:
little more involved then just adding a pump, I just seen your post above mine so I had to add my 2 cents..![]()
Info posted is nice to know, Still seems track tuning I.E street tuning would be the the best.. Given it's really hard to street tune, location and safety factors come into play.. Any thoughts on this? My understanding was dyno is only an aid for a tuner, a good tuner would come to the track and review the logs.. Then make changes as needed!! Comments are welcome!!!
lot of info. in here!!
Most racers do log at the track and make changes at the track. For the street car though, a good dyno tune is efficient enough, and changes are generally not required. Remember, the stock ECU works fine with a wide selection of engines - there is always a window where the engine likes to operate at.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
problem with street tuning is its really hard to do a 4th gear pull to 140mph on the street safely, and you cant drive and tune at the same time. you can log and then make changes. Its best to have someone else drive it, while you tune it, etc. Plus its not a controlled environment.
Track is always good but even then , how do you get to the point of running your car all out, you have to have a workable tune first, and "trying it out" by running a track run is dangerous.
its usually best to go "tune it" on a dyno, then make tweaks at the track with data logging. but not everyone can invest in a personal tuner, or have the equipment to tune a car themselves.
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exactly.
I kinda have a similar argument for people that INSIST on buying 32 way adjustable coilovers. Im like "how often are you REALLY going to adjust the dampening?" most of the time these guys buy the $1500 coilovers, slam it on the ground and NEVER touch it again.
Just like a dyno tune is usually exactly what 90% of the crowd out there is going to need or want.
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Tuning is one thing in which I never picked up on.. The intimidation factor has always been there, kind of like jumping on a bike the first time!!
I'd love to learn, but damn if I want to blow the shit up!!! LOL
Nasty Shit right here!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sT3-U...1&feature=fvwp
lol thats how i feel about engine building. I was always like god damn thats a lot of work just to fuck up and ruin something.
But if you can build an engine, if you know how an engine works, then tuning is just something you gotta jump into but knowing how and why always helps.
Like i said the EFI 101 class is a great place to start, it teaches you a ton of info and really make you understand what dyno time is really all about. I honestly thought i KNEW more in 2 days than a lot of so called tuners know.
Anyone can turn sit behind a computer and hit numbers till the a/f "looks right". but understanding WHY a car makes power a certain way, and how to reach that point, is far more important.
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LOL! I didnt say just add a pump and ur done, just letting mike know u can go past 8k without failure using a a2 or ap1 pump,BUT i didnt say that was itLiek i said b4, culprit or prit(s) have been found...................... whatever they were as far as power goes
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BTW: Engine builder is Extremely knowledgeable and is from NJ! LOL! here. So i trust him the MOSTdidnt say he was the best, just stating my opinion
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Dynojets have load bearing option
The EMPIRE
Mainstream, Batlground, Topspeed, all have inertia dynos without load bearing option to my knowledge last i checked
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Last time i was on a dyno ws 09, so if someone picked one up thats cool , has anyone tuned with it versus a dyno dynamics?
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