Cap or no cap?
I'm about to order a T3 Audio T-2000 D2 (2,000 rms / 4,000 peak) and I'm most likely going to use a Hifonics Brutus BRZ3000.1D Pro amp to power it. I was wondering if I should use a cap or not? Any suggestions?
Also I was wondering what gauge kit I should use for all this.
definately 1/0AWG Wire, and Id run a secondary battery instead of a cap. A lot of times they are around the same price and you get a HUGE boost in performace stepping up to a secondary battery. We've got Optima, Stinger, Kinetik, and Shuriken. I run Kinetiks in my car.
Would a StreetWires PSKA0R Power Stream 1/0 AWG Red Amp Installation Kit work well? I just did a quick search on Amazon and that's what i found for around 80 bucks.
Also I have a little confusion on the RCA in and outputs. The RCAs dont come with the amp kit correct? If they don't what would I have to buy to hook up the RCAs from the amp to my headunit? (Pioneer P4100DVD)
But besides the sub, amp, and amp installation kit is there anything else I would need to complete the install?
Some amp kits come wth RCA's. a good way to check if it they call it a "power" kit or a "complete" amp kit. usually the complete kits come with RCA's. if it doesnt, you just need to buy a set of 2 channel RCA's.
Would I need 2 sets of 2 channel RCAs or a 4 channel RCA? Because there's an input L & R then output L & R
No, The output stage is to hook up more amps. instead of having to run another line back for that second amp, you can litteraly piggyback off the amp thats already there.
If the amp doesn't come with rca's. might I suggest these.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...odID=KARSS2.4M
Infact they have an amp kit,
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KFX-PK0
I run Knukonceptz in my vehicle. You could probably build your own amp kit from their products for a little cheaper... but its definately an amazing company with great products that are dirt cheap. I run those EXACT rca's in my truck. and I've yet to find anything under 150 bucks that even is comparable in quality.
Mods- High flow cat, Flowmaster stage 2 exhaust, Intake, Lots of wiring upgrades, h/o alt, 2 18's walled, off 8000 rms custom interior VERY LOUD (152.3) on music and a 156.6 outlaw.( system sounds alot like this!!!
this is a bit off topic, and im not trying to bash your choice but why T3???? if your looking for subs in that category look at sundown, cheaper in price i believe and for what they are and the price they are they sound damn good.
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At first I was thinking about using Monster Cable RCA's but they're a lot more expensive and I'm not sure if it's totally worth it.
http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/prod...r&LastPage=400 Interconnects
How do I determine how many amps the "fuse type" is?
It's just personal preference really. I just love the new 2010 designs T3 is coming out with. Sundown doesn't really make any sub that compares to the T-2000. The only one that is similar is the Nightshade 12'' which is 600+. I dont think they've released their full line of 2010 yet though.Originally Posted by sina518
I just found a complete kit on ebay... opinions on this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-0-Gauge-4000-W...item4839ba9a70
I'd stay away from low quality/cheap wire.
That is the SoundQuest SK0 amp kit. We have them also for $40. SoundQuest is by Stinger.
Hey man clean out your PM's lol. Ya'll got the Stinger 1/0 Gauge SHK201 amp kit?
No, the only Stinger products I sell is the Stinger sound deadening and the SoundQuest kits.
what's the difference between the soundquest version vs stinger besides price?
Not 100% sure what the true difference is...never sold the Stinger brand name kits.
Oh okay. Do you sell or know much about Monster Cable 2 Channel RCA's? I'll probably be stopping by soon when I get everything in.
stinger uses more strands of cooper and sound quest is just the knock off version. for the price range stinger is probably the better choice. i have a shk201 amp kit if you want it. asking 150 for it. lmk it brand new never opened.
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I'll give you 100 for it picked up. They go for 114 on Amazon right now.
I have never actually compared the SoundQuest kits to true 0 Gauge, but I would guess it would be around 1-2 Gauge of wire. Even then, going from $40 to $150 would not be worth it when you look at what you would gain for $110.
Monster Cable is overpriced and you will not get anything extra out of them. Last time I looked at a dealer sheet, Monster Cable is marked up 80% from dealer cost to retail. Not to mention the mark up from cost to dealer. Needless to say, there are as good or better products for less.
Meh on caps... You are going to need to some serious power to support that 3kw amp(I think that is hifonics new line the supposedly does rated, IDK though). Big amps on weak electrical systems is always risky.
As for wiring, I have had solid luck with Rockford, Stinger, and KnuKonceptz. Don't skimp on wiring. You'll find yourself just upgrading later on. Do a solid run of 1/0(true) to the back and add a batt back there when you get a chance. Keep the gain low until you get a chance to get a second batt in. It is really east to introduce clipping on a stock electrical system.
I agree with the battery suggestion versus a capacitor.
Not all wire is created equally. Not even close!!!!
With the rise in copper prices over the past few years, many of the budget conscience (cheap) companies have resorted to adding more jacketing to thier cable, with less strands of wire. From the outside, they all look the same. But, peel back a bit of the jacketing, and you get a surprise. I have samples at the shop of a certain brand of cable that claims to be 4 awg....and it has less strands of wire (quantity and size) than the Stinger 8AWG we sell.
To the OP.... I think the T3 T2000 is a pretty kick-a$$ sub. Great choice. I run last years TS10s in my Eclipse, and love them. Unfortunatly, I did not have the space or power necessary for the TSS
2007, 2008, & 2009 IASCA National SQi Champion Pro Ultimate
Total of 5 National Sound Quality Championships.
Thanks for all the good input guys. I'm pretty much set on what I'm gonna get. Talking to Ed from T3 right now and I'll have the T2000 probably within the week.
As far as my wiring goes it'll be the Stinger 1/0 Gauge amp kit with Monster Cable i302 2 channel RCA's. I'm not sure how much I'm gonna need though... it'll be in a 2009 Pontiac G5 2 door so any suggestions? I was thinking 3 meters would be plenty.
After all my stuff gets in I'll look more into a bigger power supply as far as second battery & upgraded alt to power it.
Now I'm looking more into enclosures. I want something not all SPL. Which would be best sealed or vented?
Thanks for all the good input guys. I'm pretty much set on what I'm gonna get. Talking to Ed from T3 right now and I'll have the T2000 probably within the week.
As far as my wiring goes it'll be the Stinger 1/0 Gauge amp kit with Monster Cable i302 2 channel RCA's. I'm not sure how much I'm gonna need though... it'll be in a 2009 Pontiac G5 2 door so any suggestions? I was thinking 3 meters would be plenty.
After all my stuff gets in I'll look more into a bigger power supply as far as second battery & upgraded alt to power it.
Now I'm looking more into enclosures. I want something not all SPL. Which would be best sealed or vented?
Three meters *should* be enough to get to the trunk if you go straight back through the center of the car. I'd go with 4 meters just to be safe.
I would assume you are going to want it to be loud by the size of the amp your thinking about. If this is the case, I'd go ported. I think the biggest ED would recommend would be 2.5 cubes ported(I think it might be even close to just 2 cubes). Your trunk would fit ported quite nicely with that being said. I would just ask for his input about box spec.
T3's new line looks pimpin. Good choice. Chadbee on here actually took the pictures for the new line lol.
That amp might be a bit overkill too btw, and overpriced for what it is. Might want to check around a little bit if you're not set on that thing.
Okay I guess it's better to be safe than sorry. I've never hooked up subs before so I'm not real familiar with all the tucking and such that I need to do to get from my trunk to the headunit. My batterys in the trunk so that solves the other half of the problem.
I thought I saw those pictures posted up somewhere on here lol.
Not set on that amp yet. I don't think the 2010 Hifonics line is really out yet. I've only seen them for sale in a couple places. I'm still doing a little research. Got any suggestions as far as amps go?
I attatched the specs too.
I don't really understand what that means for box design. I would assume that means 2.5cubes after sub and port displacement, which would get you in the 37hz range if I remember correctly. ED can further explain this to you. He probably knows exactly what youre looking for in the box.
As for amps. I would also get Ed's input on what the sub would want and then go from there. I would assume and 2krms(true rms) would be good for the application. The hifonics would be overkill and I would be skeptical on its performance and reliablity seeing as there are none around yet. It looks to be based off the Crunch 3000 pro amps which where decent, but still would require quite an electrical system.
I have a MB Quart DSC 2k amp that I throw in my car to power my bigger sub setups. I like the thing. They are pretty affordable, and will do a couple hairs over rated. I think it is the equivilant to the new Hifonics 2100(Hifonics and MB Q are both brands under the Maxxsonics name), which also does CEA-2006 rated(But that is just a hunch, don't quote me on that).
Honestly though, you could probably get away with lower power(1000-2000rms). I built a box for chadbee on here for his TSS, 2.5 cubes tuned to 32-33hz. It was a very effeicent sub that was geeting work done with his crusty sony 500watt(maybe) amp.
I think your rear seat fold, correct? If so, you are going to have nice SPL setup on your hands....
Kevin
I'm not really sure what all that means either. Not very good with enclosures since I've never really looked into it until now.
I was thinking about getting a BXI2600.1 which is Hifonics 2009 amp line. It would be 1700 rms @ 2 ohms. Which would work fine and it's about 300.
Yeah the back seats can fold down. I'm gonna need a lot of Second Skin... lol
What materials did you use for the box? Fiber board?
yep i posted them in the pictures section....those cones are fuckin seeeexy in person!!!! great choice in a woofer for sure, i know you will be very happy with it. hell i <3 my T3 TSS 12" that i had in my blazer!
Wait? You get a D2 ohm woofer, or a D1?
Kevin
The T-2000 comes only in D2 right now.
Ok, so you shouldn't even be looking at the amps 2 ohm specs. You will have the woofer's coils wired in parallel, bringing your final impedance to 1 ohm.
I'm aware I can split it to 1 ohm but I heard leaving it at 2 ohm would have a nicer bass than 1.
You can only wire a D2 woofer to a 1 ohm, or 4 ohm final impedance.
Haha my bad. Guess I can save a little bit more on my amp then.
i didnt read everybody elses responses so forgive me if i repeat someones answer. get rid of the cap and get yourself a powercell. kinetic, xs power...something like that. they install just like a cap and help save your electrical system. if you really want to get maximum power, get a high power alt. again, if someone else has said this, my bad. too many responses to read and i just didnt feel like it at the time.
Slimm
I'll make a couple suggestions:
1. Dont bother with the cap. They are pertty much useless to anyone but the VERY experienced installers that know how to properly use them.
2. When you build the box make it from 3/4" MDF and you will need to double up the side that holds the sub. Make sure you brace it pretty well inside the box and use plenty of glue. The glue is what holds the box together, the screws are just to hold it together until the glue sets up. I've built a few boxes that didnt have a single screw in it.
3. The posted specs say to build the box to 2.5cu after sub and port displacement. I would imagine the tuning is 35-40hz but its easy to find out. I would definitely say to tune lower though, probably in the 30-32hz range.
4. You need to do a Big 3 upgrade before you bother with another battery or bigger alt. The big 3 upgrade will make your entire electrical system FAR more efficient.
5. knukonceptz wire is better than Stinger IMO. The 1/0 I have at the house is noticeably larger than the Stinger even though the outer diameter is the same. knukonceptz is also a lot cheaper.
Yeah. I have a single run of their base 1/0 to the back of my car. I am about to do three more so I can have 2 positive and 2 negative runs to the back. Pretty good stuff. The KLMX is CCA which some gripe about, but it is also oversized so it kinda even out in my eyes. Plus it is just plain old affordable. I just run the KLMX from front to back(batts) in my car and use the flexible(nicer 1/0) to the amps.
Appreciate the help guys. I've had to put off my project due to school/finals but now that summer has come I'll pick up where I left off. The plan for right now is to map out all my electrical needs and cover my car with some deadener (second skin damplifer pro). As far as wires go I see you all favor the knukonceptz so I'll have to check them out over stinger. As for everything else I'm still planning on going with monster cable. Here's where it's still fuzzy. I'll be going with their 400 series with their 2 channel rca's for my mono amp and 4 channel for the 4 chan amp.
Then how much speaker wire will I need? The speaker wire runs from the 4 channel to each speaker, correct? is it just one strand of speaker wire or more per speaker?
Also, I'll need a distro block to connect the two amps. The monster cable distro block converts 1/0 to 3 4awg. How much of the 3 4awg will I need to hook into the 4 channel amp?
As far as box building I have little knowledge. What exactly do you mean when you say 35-50hz?
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