Quote Originally Posted by BanginJimmy View Post
I'll make a couple suggestions:

1. Dont bother with the cap. They are pertty much useless to anyone but the VERY experienced installers that know how to properly use them.

2. When you build the box make it from 3/4" MDF and you will need to double up the side that holds the sub. Make sure you brace it pretty well inside the box and use plenty of glue. The glue is what holds the box together, the screws are just to hold it together until the glue sets up. I've built a few boxes that didnt have a single screw in it.

3. The posted specs say to build the box to 2.5cu after sub and port displacement. I would imagine the tuning is 35-40hz but its easy to find out. I would definitely say to tune lower though, probably in the 30-32hz range.

4. You need to do a Big 3 upgrade before you bother with another battery or bigger alt. The big 3 upgrade will make your entire electrical system FAR more efficient.

5. knukonceptz wire is better than Stinger IMO. The 1/0 I have at the house is noticeably larger than the Stinger even though the outer diameter is the same. knukonceptz is also a lot cheaper.
Yeah. I have a single run of their base 1/0 to the back of my car. I am about to do three more so I can have 2 positive and 2 negative runs to the back. Pretty good stuff. The KLMX is CCA which some gripe about, but it is also oversized so it kinda even out in my eyes. Plus it is just plain old affordable. I just run the KLMX from front to back(batts) in my car and use the flexible(nicer 1/0) to the amps.