there are,Quote:
Originally Posted by 1SICKLEX
the e30 M3's are my favorite car to drive.
granted some guys buy them and drop bigger engines in them, thats their thing tho,
i like the balance of the sub 2500lb car that handles like a dream with the reallllllllllllllly high revving e30M engine :)
to each his own tho.
i just read all of this thread, and i have just a few things to add:
STI pink is hot, yet they do not have rims that are pink for them. they are not factory accessories. the cage, badging, and oodles of other stuff is tho.
i want to see a stock e36 m3 OUTRUN an STI, 0-top speed. none of this "it has all wheel drive" or "its speed limited" bullshit. its out of box agianst out of box.
ia.com should ask bmw for royalties for the number of adds posted by dinan and kendogg. fuck allowing free advertising.
consumer reports is as unbiased as it comes. period. as for the american mags to the uk mags, last time i checked we are in america. we get the US version of the cars so an american publication would be best for us to argue with anyways.
the track day- give me a few weeks. im game. not ra though, im thinking lil tally or roabling.
:lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaimecbr900
Oh snap! Ford > BMW :lmfao:
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by 1SICKLEX
After reading this entire thread, it makes me happy that I didnt get an M3. I was looking to get a 99 M3 but shit didnt work out. I guess thats for the better because I would hate to be viewed as the stereo type that these guys have proven.
Dont get me wrong, I love the M3s I have driven. I think they are great cars. As far as the E36 M3 being a "watered down" version, you couldnt be more wrong. In this class of cars, the E36 M3 is the most track ready car off the showroom floor. Also, I know for a fact that Bimmers really show their prowess above 100mph. Why? Cause you can take them over those speeds on the Autobahn.
When I was looking to get a new car, I wanted a luxurious sport coupe. I was set on a 98.5 - 99 M3 for about a year. Once it came time to finance, I could only get a loan for 2.5 years, making my payments in the $800/mo. range. Too rich for my blood. After finding this out, I looked at the G35. I am happy with my decision. Even though I love the look of an E36 dropped on some 19's tucking the rear rim just a little, I dont think there is a sexier sport coupe on the road than the G35C. Now, I didnt get my car to pick up chicks, and I dont need my car to do so, but god damn does it work(notice the sig). Every where I go, Ive got girls wanting to know about it, talk about it and to ride in it.
As far as the G35 being a better track car than the E36M3, no, its isnt, but that isnt why I got my car. I also wanted a 6spd, but to get the euro tranny put in the U.S. spec car is a PITA. I've also hear that it is damn near impossible to find someone to work on it when it needs it.
And whoever it was that said that it would cost about $10k to turbo a G35, you are pretty much right. I have checked at multiple shops, and to get mid 400-500hp, thats what you will be looking to spend, beggining to end.
For the record, Consumer Reports is the most unbiased publication ever. Their articals are made from true tests by multiple professionals. The E36 M3 does have a few black dots in its column, mostly under electrial.
^^^u must pick up chicks literally judging by ur sig :D :goodjob:
The G spot def. doesnt hurt in that department!! :goodjob:Quote:
Originally Posted by shagwAg3n
You obviously have not been following this thread. Right?Quote:
Originally Posted by d993s
If you had, you'd see that not only CAN many of the people not buying into this BMW supremacy theory AFFORD them, some have HAD them. So that part of your theory is totally without merit at all.
BTW, go find examples of "misinformed" for us please.
Damn, I hate being right ALL THE TIME..... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DieselNuts
But I thought according to Mr. Dinan that BMW had NO flaws......Hmmmm, I guess he knows more than Consumer Reports then, huh?
Again, I'm waiting to see what rebuttal the BMW nut swingers have to Consumer Reports and it's findings????? I guess the bias thing is out the window and now they have to google for another excuse.....?????? :rolleyes:
P.S. the girl in your sig is smoking hot. :goodjob:
(stands next to Jaime, ready to fire more jabs on the internet)....Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaimecbr900
JUST SAY THE WORD BOSS!!!
Hell yeah. God knew exactly what he was doin when he created her!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaimecbr900
I did not want to come back but for the FUCKING GOOGLE BULLSHIT COMMENT i had to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaimecbr900
And reading is not your friend either, I NEVER said they have zero problems... get over yourself
I do NOT need google or any other fucking search engine to debate with you about BMWs. So STFU with your google comments over and over and over again. It is getting very old and is fucking lame.
E36 does not have electrical problems. Whoever said that is a fucking moron, BMW has NEVER had wiring issues. Maybe technology that is beyond what a customer knows what to do(iDrive) but no ELECTRICAL problems. Sure sensors may go bad from time to time but that is not a wiring issue. I will list my E36 known flaws here. Just so everyone knows that I know it is not perfect.
-BMW E36 runs hot, it kills radiator necks, every 80K needs a radiator.
-E36 Window Regulators, It has auto-up and down, auto-up will break because of shitty design on the sliders
-Non M cars have been known to tear rear subframes if they are track driven with stiff suspension(fixed with ///M reinforcement kit)
-Premature failure of rear shock mounts(80 dollar aftermarket ones last forever)
-Early E36 vehicles uses plastic impellers on water pump, plastic eventually wears and no water will be pumped, replace with new part number with "composite" water pump
-Premature rear tire wear due to factory camber settings(a good thing)
-5th gear indent stick on cold morning(non issue unless you are really anal)
-Rear Shock failure, the E36 rear shocks are too long for the vehicle and cause premature failure
That is what I can think of right now, there are small others im sure that I do not know of or havent experienced.
Here is a FULL COMPLETE LIST OF THINGS THAT HAVE BROKEN THAT REQUIRED FIXING!!!
110K on the vehicle:
-Radiator was replaced at 86K(This was replaced BEFORE failure)
-Diff bolt was broken multiple times(replaced bolt and installed AA Tuning Diff Support Bracket, no issues as of yet, 5K on the vehicle since installation)
THAT IS IT! NOTHING ELSE!
Maintenance Items:
Front Control arms and bushings
Rear shock mounts(upgraded to ground control)
Tranny Mounts(upgraded to UUC Red with enforcer cups)
1 clutch job, wasnt necessary but I was going to have the tranny out for the exhaust so I did it anyways.
Oil changes, tranny and diff fluid changes
Bleed brakes and couple brake jobs(increased number of brake jobs due to track use)
From 0 to top speed the STI wins. The E36 m3 will not be able to catch up because of the distance out of the hole the STI will be ahead.Quote:
Originally Posted by fight club
READING IS NOT YOUR FRIEND EITHER. LEARN TO READ AND TAKE IN THE KNOWLEDGE, NOT CHOOSE WHAT YOU WANT TO TAKE IN AND THEN DECIDE WHAT YOU DO NOT WANT TO. FUCK. READ FOR CONTENT BEFORE YOU FUCKING POST!
100 mph roll, stock vs stock. The E36 M3 will SLOW SLOWLY SLOWLY pull away. Don't you know you have 2 over drive gears in the STI. The E36 M3 has a 5 speed close ratio box with a 1 to 1 5th gear. But since you didnt fucking read you do not know this. You picked up on random piece here and random piece here and there and then fucking spout out some bullshit. The STI is faster at the drag strip, easier to make alot faster. But stock to stock 100 mph roll the M3 slowly pulls away.
that car sounds like a piece of shit, my civic doesnt need all that
I'll pull on all you lames w/ my homeys '64 SS, got the 409 from factory, dynoed at 512whp.... WHO WANT IT??? :D
Google is my friend...from a bwm forum:
This is an attempt to compile as much of a list as possible about known E36 3 series flaws one might encounter. Keep in mind that these are known issues pertaining to design, production, or quality control, and in some cases, not necessarily recognized by BMW as such.
A little bit of background on the E36, which covers the '92-'99 3 series models (with some exceptions) . . . According to Bimmer Magazine, BMW E30 (and prior) engineers used complex math equations and heavy field testing to figure out required strength and durability, then they would double or triple the outcome, resulting in a fairly bulletproof car. Not so with the E36, which proved to be somewhat less reliable than the models before or after it, for two main reasons. The E36 is the very first BMW in history to be designed on CAD, and instead of extensive testing, they relied on the program to determine how robust a part or system should be. Secondly, they were engineered with recycling in mind. Which is a bit of an irony, since many owners can make these cars last upwards of 250-300 thousand miles. That isn't to say that the E36 is a shoddy Bimmer- they do more than live up to time honored BMW tradition, as the motors are quite strong, and light years ahead of the E21/E30 powerplants, along with numerous other significant improvements in comfort and performance.
Still, many of them were poorly maintained and abused by previous owners, and as they're currently approaching the higher mileage threshold, you can expect to spend a little money restoring one. But by no means should you not consider buying one, because it's an absolute thrill to drive, and tends to be more reliable compared to other cars in its class, despite its shortcomings. Furthermore, it should be mentioned that while the following list may seem frightening, not all E36's will experience these issues, and since they typically are higher mileage cars nowadays, a lot of the problems have already been addressed by recalls and previous repairs. On to the list . . . .
Engine Bay:
-There is no doubt that the most notorious E36 issue is the water pump. 6 cylinder models up to MY ’97 were equipped with plastic impellers which would break apart and fail prematurely, stopping the coolant flow. Typical replacement interval is 60k, but they’ve been known to fail at as low as 20-30k, and often randomly. Replacement pumps employ a metal impeller. If you’re not sure that it was changed, do it anyway. Here's how.
-Clutch fan can shatter and cause extensive damage to the radiator, belts and other parts in its vicinity. A common preventative measure is to remove it using a procedure known as the Fan Delete Mod, but diligent regular inspection of the blades and timely replacement should suffice.
-The stock E36 radiator has plastic necks which can crack or break over time. Even if it looks fine, you may want to replace it, especially near the 100k mark, which is about the typical time when radiators fail. An alternative is to replace it with an all metal unit. The same goes for the plastic thermostat housing, aluminum replacements are available. Again, regular visual inspection is the key to avoiding costly damage.
http://files.unitedbimmer.com/ub.c/D..._E36/tstat.jpg
-The fuel feed hose at the engine fitting can harden over time and cause seepage at that location. BMW’s recall campaign replaced the hose and clamps.
-Engine ticking can occur, particularly with older E36’s. This is characterized by a ticking sound (at idle) or the sound of marbles (under throttle) on the passenger side of the engine bay, most noticeable just after startup. It usually happens because engine oil can take some time to reach the VANOS and hydraulic lifters for lubrication. Most agree that this is normal, and is not something to worry about, unless you hear the noise all the time. In that case, the lifters may need replacement. The M50 was notorious for this lifter noise, and in severe cases BMW replaced the motor under warranty. However, on the M42, the problem is usually a failing chain tensioner, a relatively easy fix.
-Rough or poor idling is generally attributed to a dirty idle control valve, or a faulty oxygen sensor. But it can also be traced to the VANOS unit, which can get stuck in the advanced position, requiring a dealership adjustment or replacement.
http://files.unitedbimmer.com/ub.c/Dudesky_E36/icv.jpg
-On some ’93 and earlier M42 engines, which includes both the E30 & E36 318is, the profile gasket can be eroded by coolant, leading to failure anywhere from 30-70k mi. This is a costly problem since the cylinder head has to come off so the gasket can be replaced with an upgraded version. Although using only BMW approved coolant can help slow down the process, it does not prevent the failure.
-Some European variants of the M52 engine before MY ’98 experienced premature cylinder bore wear, resulting in a loss of power and compression. This was attributed to the sulfur in gasoline, and the only solution is to replace the damaged alloy block. If you suspect you have this issue, have a compression test done.
-Drive belt idler pulley on some E36/M52 models may have been installed incorrectly during production, causing premature wear and eventual failure of the belt. This will occur during the first few hundred miles, characterized by excessive belt noise.
-Throttle valve can get stuck on some models, causing uncontrollable acceleration. This affected 1996 E36’s (410,000 units), but other years may also apply. The problem lies in both the cruise control and throttle cables, where the plastic bushing on the cable end can break, allowing the cable sleeve to get stuck. BMW issued a recall campaign for this, and the solution was to install a spring steel retainer clip on the cable ends to prevent the outer sleeve from dislodging from the bushing.
http://files.unitedbimmer.com/ub.c/D...iner_clips.jpg
-E36/M44 engines may have bad ICV’s, creating a whistling noise, or causing a hard start or no start condition. The ICV was manufactured with incorrect tolerances between the rotary valve and the housing. The newer updated part number is 13 41 1 435 846.
-M50 engines with VANOS produced 1/92 to 8/94 may have problems starting in cold weather below 46 degrees fahrenheit, or in high altitudes. Symptoms include a check engine light, long cranking times, black smoke from exhaust, and wet spark plugs. When this occurs, the EPROM needs to be reprogrammed by the dealer (MoDiC programming software version 5.1 or higher).
Transmission & Final Drive:
-A faulty guide sleeve on the 1st & 2nd gear may cause the tranny to pop out of gear. Requires disassembly of the gearbox.
-On manual trannies, 2nd gear can completely blow out, or it may refuse to go into 5th gear when cold. Though very rare, this problem is expensive and requires a rebuild or replacement altogether.
-Squeaky clutch pedals are very common, the only solution is to replace the bushings with aftermarket parts, available from UUC Motorwerks.
-Stock transmission mounts can cause excessive vibration or movement, resulting in missed shifts and engine over revving. This problem is commonly referred to as "the money shift". A number of stiffer aftermarket mounts are available at Bimmerworld.
-Differential clutch pack retaining ring bolts can loosen or back out, eventually resulting in rear end failure. If you hear a ticking noise in the rear, have the final drive checked out.
-Some clutches shudder when 1st or 2nd gear is engaged while the car is hot, or has been driven in stop and go traffic for long periods. This is due to a non-asbestos lining on the clutch plate. BMW apparently has a new lining available; however some new owners continue to experience this shuddering.
-Flex discs (also known as Guibo couplings) can crack or shred prematurely. This coupling connects the driveline to the transmission. Characterized by a knocking under the tranny hump or a thunking noise under acceleration. Not overly difficult to replace.
Antilock Braking System:
-Faulty ABS pump motor relays manufactured prior to May ’96 can trigger the ABS warning light.
-On rare occasions, the ABS warning light may glow briefly after turning on electrical accessories. This is a sign of a hardware problem with the ABS control module, which will need replacing.
-ABS rear wheel speed sensors on ’92 E36’s had poor solder connections. If the date code is 0801 (80th day of 1991) or older, they need to be replaced.
-On some ’93 318is and 325is, six bolts which fasten the bottom cover of the ABS hydraulic unit to its housing may not have been tightened properly during production. The proper torque is 15 Nm. If it’s looser than that, the hydraulic unit is probably damaged and should be replaced.
Steering:
-Many E36's had the lower steering column replaced as a result of corrosion; there was a recall campaign for this.
-Power steering hose can leak. In worst cases, the condition eventually leads to hose failure, resulting in a loss of steering assist.
-Worn tie rod ends are often noticeable as a judder under braking. This is commonly mistaken for warped rotors as it has almost the same feel.
Suspension & Undercarriage:
-Rear shock mount failure is a very common problem, and can occur in as little as 20k miles. The symptoms begin with a dull clunking noise in the rear over bumps or rough roads, indicating that the shock piston rod has separated from the bushing mount. This can progress into metallic noises as the mount bolts shear off if not replaced in a timely fashion. The broken mounts eventually damage and tear the rear shock towers. Stronger E46 mounts along with Z3 reinforcement plates are recommended for replacement, and even better aftermarket parts are available from outfits such as Rogue Engineering and Ground Control.
http://files.unitedbimmer.com/ub.c/D...sm_failure.jpg
-Weak front outer ball joints are typical on the E36. A common solution is to use stronger E30 control arms with ball joints preattached, simplifying the installation. All metal ball joints (Meyle) are another alternative, but at the cost of a slightly harsher ride.
-Rear inner control arm bushings are another weak spot, and should be upgraded to the tougher ’96 or newer replacements.
-Under (but not limited to) heavy racing or track conditions, the rear subframe bushing mounts can tear off the body, causing extensive damage. Though rare, this typically requires welding reinforcement plates to repair the body.
-Rear trailing arm bushings can wear in as little as 50k miles, although there is debate on whether this is a fault or regular maintenance issue. Symptoms of bad trailing arm bushings include side movement of the rear end under acceleration, general looseness of the rear over bumps, and abnormal tire wear. United Bimmer has a DIY for this item. In a handful of isolated cases, the threaded holes for the console's 3 mounting bolts fatigued, allowing the console portion of the arm to break away from the car body.
-Some E36’s may experience unusual wear along the outer edge of the front tires. This is resolved by replacing the upper strut to hub mounting bolt with an “E36 camber correction bolt”. It’s smaller in diameter than the standard bolt, allowing for ½ degree of camber adjustment. However, the dealer may not know what you’re referring to, as the documentation on this part (#07 11 99 00 58 7) is very sketchy. Internet rumor has it that there are some sort of legal implications to this issue???
http://files.unitedbimmer.com/ub.c/D...amber_corr.jpg
Electrical / Electronics:
-DME compartment flooding is a common problem for model years up to ’94. Symptoms are hard starting or no start condition after heavy rain or a car wash. Insufficient drainage allows water to collect in the intake plenum cowl for the heating/AC, and overflows into the DME compartment. BMW issued a service bulletin with an easy fix for the situation.
-Earlier E36’s had issues regarding defective ignition coils from Zundspule and Bemis. They were replaced with Bosch coils. If you still have the older brands installed, replace them right away. Cracked coils can seriously damage the ECU.
-Corrosion on electrical harnesses, particularly 2 and 3pin sensor wires, can result in erroneous readings and trigger warning lamps. Certain plug connections have a rectangular seal which comes off unnoticed, allowing debris to enter and raise the electrical resistance in the circuit, triggering a false warning. Often these problems are misdiagnosed. Some tin plated contacts have been replaced with gold by dealerships over the years to alleviate these issues. Problems include, but not limited to, oil level/pressure warning lamps, camshaft sensor, coolant level/temp sensors, incorrect fuel gauge & speedometer readings, and brake light warnings. Contact cleaner works well as a preventative measure.
-Voltage regulators typically fail on 318’s fitted with Valeo alternators. The regulator can be replaced separately.
-Power windows sometimes behave erratically, moving up or down only in 1” increments. This is attributed to a magnet on the motor shaft falling out of position. The magnet can be moved back into position to correct this problem.
-A failing comfort relay causes the windows and sunroof to stop working inexplicably.
-In rare instances, owners have reported major wire chafing in the trunk harness, causing interior and exterior lighting failures and numerous blown fuses. Visually inspect this harness from time to time to be on the safe side.
http://files.unitedbimmer.com/ub.c/D...36/chafing.jpg
-E36's with M42 engine and manual transmissions were recalled by BMW North America for incorrect routing of the oxygen sensor wiring harness. The wire could stretch and break, disconnecting it from the DME, and triggering the check engine light.
-A capacitor failure in the climate control module prevents the blower from operating while the AC compressor is engaged. The lights on the control module will also dim or go out completely. Fortunately, someone has figured out how to fix this without buying a new module.
-Glass breakage sensors on stock alarms supplied by Alpine can false trigger at times when the interior cabin temperature is high.
-Radio problems have been reported, most regarding dimmed or no backlighting. This is a dealer fix, but a better alternative is to replace the radio altogether.
-On some E36’s, most notably the ’95 M3, a faulty circuit in the safety relay can activate the hazard flashers and unlock the doors while going over bumps in the road.
-The heater element on heated seats often fails and needs replacement.
-Brake light switch failures are common, although there is debate on whether this is a quality control issue. Replacement is fairly easy.
Interior/Exterior Fit and Finish:
-Inadequate water drainage and/or rust proofing on some models causes rusting at the bottom of the front passenger side fender where it meets the door.
http://files.unitedbimmer.com/ub.c/D...ust_fender.jpg
-Brake ducts on earlier models were poorly attached and can be dislodged or fall off. This also damages or breaks off the external temperature sensor, which is attached inside the duct.
-Early fog lamp lenses crack due to temperature related stresses, a warranty fix.
-Some dashboards bulge up at the center air vent. Inadequate adhesion causes delamination problems on door panels. Midrange and tweeter speaker trim cracks are also common.
-Glove boxes can sag over time, there is a fix for this problem.
-Rear door noises on ’96 and later saloons are attributed to the type of rubber used on the door trim seals.
-Sunroof and rear parcel shelf rattles are common. Replacing certain parts in the sunroof mechanism fixes the noise, and you can support the rear deck with some foam stuffing to eliminate the rattle.
-Plastic headlight covers dull or get foggy. A number of compounds and polishes have been known to yield good results, but ultimately they ought to be replaced with the European glass units.
:lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:Quote:
Originally Posted by DinanM3atl
That is alot of problems for the "ultimate car"......
p.s. My offer to run your "ultimate driving machine" in my japanese, non-luxury car, still stands... :goodjob:
ALOT??!?!?!?!hahahahaah that is like 1000 dollars worth of maintenance over 110K miles...
Again Road Atlanta, March, come to the track.
I have NONE of those problems in my E36. Get over it.
Out again, I didnt want to get back into this arguement, want me to start posting those same list for every other car, that is singled out random shit from the E36, including early 92-94 cars which were MAJOR pieces of shit.
Yes, that is alot. I peviously owned several Toyota MR2's and do you know what I replaced that car in 108k miles?Quote:
Originally Posted by DinanM3atl
1. Oil & filter changes
2. Regular maint. (i.e. spark plugs, wires, etc)
That is all. Can you say that for the BMW's? I think not. They are not reliable compared to other vehicles.
P.S. You still did not answer my question about running you in my non-luxury vehicle? Are you going to answer this or pretent you didn't read it?
You sound like the typical IA girl... IM LEAVING *pout* not coming back... yadda yadda yadda... quit posting we wont miss ya thanks bye bye now... :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by DinanM3atl
Thought this was interesting.......
Seems that BMW is just better than the industry average and is beat by a few japanese and american vehicles.....hmmm..... :goodjob:
....of course you are just going to say that this is somehow biased against you beloved BMW..... :rolleyes:
LOL @Land Rover there out in the middle of nowhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by richw131
Round II!
DING!Quote:
Originally Posted by 1SICKLEX
:lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:
quit e-thuggin and get me some yummy... im starving! :tongue1:Quote:
Originally Posted by richw131
Haha! I had some steak the other day with yummy sauce that I thieved....Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrappy
Mmmmm Yummy.....
I am actually posting from smokey bones......Nokia 9300>ur pda...
Which one?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1SICKLEX
BTW: This is in my garage right now
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...3/Image020.jpg
Shoulda bought a BMW
What happened to slow dinanm3 dude?
There he is.....
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 19 (12 members and 7 guests)
richw131, admin, fight club, fcman, joecoolfreak, RX8volution, shagwAg3n, wrxin8or, Calvin200sx, confusedkorean, DJ XtRaK©, DinanM3atl
Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLFED
I've said it before, I'll say it again... "Arguing on the Internet is like running the Special Olympics - even if you win... you're still retarded." :idb:
In Covington.....by StonecrestQuote:
Originally Posted by fcman
Gotcha, just wondering cause I used to work at the one at North Point.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1SICKLEX
Unfortunately, AFAIK, every BMW ever build has cooling system issues. They've never been able to get that right for some reason :/ My E28 535i had the water pump go out on me which was quite common with 0 warning. Shaft starts to get play, bearins loosen up, and then it locks up, normally destroying teh fan in the process, ebcause the shaft tilts just enough to allow the fan to make contact with the crank pulley. It sucked. Super easy water pump to replace, though,everything is right there. Thats the second part of owning a BMW that I enjoy,. is that when it's fix-it time, they are uber easy to repair. For a car made in the last 20-ish years, I think the only other car that I personally would cnosider easier to work on, that I have experience working on at least, is a Subaru.
And I can't attest to the E36 problems nor support the E36, I'm not a fan of the car. Awesoem car to drive, but not built well enough IMO. The E36 was the beginnign of the end for BMW quality in the 3 series. The E46 is a pile, it's really sad to say, but ti's true. Time will tell what the new E90 does.
The VANOS noises, failures, and lifter noises/failures are due to 2 main problems - the factory spec'd oil of 0W-40 synthetic, and the 15k mile oil change interval that BMW trieas to spec. sdwitching to 20W-50 castrol or the like eliminates these problems almost permanently. Vanos units can also fail from VANOS solenoid failure, and failure to erplace the solenoid by either ignoring, or not knowing it has failed, can cause pre-mature VANOS failure.
I love my E30, I love the M20 engine in it, and my god is the motor bulletproof for a 70's designed engine, but the M5x series fo engines are better. I will probably still end up building my M20 for boost evntually, unless I come across an M5x engine for almost nothing. And I don't know for myself, but DinanM3ATL was telling me that the aluminum thermostat housings actually have a higher failure rate than the plastic ones, due to the fact that they warp or crack more foten. Stock replacement plastic thermostat housing should be used. Regular maintenence of the cooling system will help ward off 'some' of these problems, but not forever. When 1 part fails in the cooling system, it's fairly well known that it's best to replace the entire system. This includes water pump, thermostat, housing, belt, all hoses and clamps.
Im the one that said that the E36 has electrical problems. I put money on it that you wont call me a moron to my face motherfucker. Go pick up a fucking CONSUMER REPORT and check out what it says about the E36 series fucker. You will find A BIG BLACK DOT meaning that it has multiple problems with the GOD DAMN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM!Quote:
Originally Posted by DinanM3atl
After all this bullshit that is oozing out of your mouth, im just gonna start calling you 7PSIBABYGIRL :doh:
If Jesus could pick one car to drive forever it would be an E36 BMW
Taking bets on how long it'll be until this thread hits 1000 posts yet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fight club
If you think consumers report is unbias, you need to check again, that magazine is garbage
what the hell are you smoking? :thinking: Thats the most reliable magizine there is as far as reviews go.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedGTS
Save your breath dude.Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselNuts
hahaah jesus was an extraterrestrial thats classic.