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Thread: questions about my comppresion.ls/vtec

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    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000ex View Post
    you'll diff know if you bent a valve. d series are the only one i've in counter that you can barely tell if you bent a valve.
    when i bent a valve in my jdm d15b. i though i was 1 teeth off timing, car still pull strong.
    when my buddy unplug a 1 spark plug wire in his ls, it barely run, let alone drive.
    it'll puff like a bitch. when a cylinder is down
    not necessarily we've had several ls v's and didnt know the valves was bent till the boost went on and then a leak down test done! and ran really well too it just barely had a slight skip at idle and it was 2 exhaust valves so that would explain it not smoking was just losing slight compression out the exhaust side as the bends were slight not too drastic though. depends on the nature of the bens ive seen some barely bent to snaping off and busting the piston and ruining the head. so with the compression being that big a difference on the one cylinder i would not rule out bent exhaust valves.
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    The Fuck allmotor-teg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20 View Post
    not necessarily we've had several ls v's and didnt know the valves was bent till the boost went on and then a leak down test done! check the outside white porcelain part on the outside of your plugs where the part number is for cracks. will cause your problems and this i suspect if they were that tight. also always use a socket for the plugs with some kind of rubber insulator to keep from breaking this.
    sure will do thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20 View Post
    if you dont have a leak down tester do this! if your compression tester has the part where it breaks apart like an air hose fitting on it take the valve stem thing out the spark plug end plug your air hose on it and set you compressor at about 100 psi and make sure you piston on that cylinder is tdc and all valves closed and in gear or piston will want to move down bore. turn on the air and listen at the throttle body with intake pipe off throttle open then exhaust pipe at muffler end for air then youll know and make sure it completely quiet around you to hear it. let us know.
    question if i pull the head and use liquid when all the valves are closed to see if it leaking????

    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20 View Post
    not necessarily we've had several ls v's and didnt know the valves was bent till the boost went on and then a leak down test done! and ran really well too it just barely had a slight skip at idle and it was 2 exhaust valves so that would explain it not smoking was just losing slight compression out the exhaust side as the bends were slight not too drastic though. depends on the nature of the bens ive seen some barely bent to snaping off and busting the piston and ruining the head. so with the compression being that big a difference on the one cylinder i would not rule out bent exhaust valves.
    dont you think everything will be too close and i should be better off just getting a bare b16 and use all my internals from this one but if the valves are bent i just but new ones???
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    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    also check you electrodes to see if any are bent together from slight contact with piston and any time you put plugs in as they get dropped all the time at the factory and stores! you should be running ngk bkr7e plugs i think with that compression as the electrode is recessed further down in a colder plug! just trying to rule out the inexpensive stuff first you know?
    LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!

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    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20 View Post
    if you do the air test you already basically know what cylinder is low listen to see which it is intake or exhaust then you can buy the valves yourself get a simple valve tool on ebay that bolts to b series heads i can get you an item number when your ready and change em your self ill walk you through it. also yes if there bad enough you can pull the head and set it without cams of course where all valves are closed and pour water into the intake ports and look to see if water is leaking from any valves should be none at all or at most very very little. then do the exhaust side which i think it is and when you get to the culprit ones it will just run out in a small stream! simple enough right?
    well the exhausht is not leaking i used gas was there for a couple of minutes havent done the intake cause i had other things to do but i got the block and used gas in all cylenders and 234 lost almost all gas but i let it sit for like 9 hours but piston 1 looked the same when i did the comp test couple of days it did not show me 230+ compression it was very low like the other ones looked at the pistons and didnt see any kind of wear so. question have you ever heard of 2 headgaskets with cooper spray????


    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20 View Post
    also check you electrodes to see if any are bent together from slight contact with piston and any time you put plugs in as they get dropped all the time at the factory and stores! you should be running ngk bkr7e plugs i think with that compression as the electrode is recessed further down in a colder plug! just trying to rule out the inexpensive stuff first you know?
    so get those spark plugs and see??
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