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Thread: KEEP IT SIMPLE, Vteckidds Guide to NA

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    The one thing i DESPISE the most is people giving out bad information. Dont mean to jump on you but you are posting some stuff thats very wrong


    how am i wrong for telling forks to open their wallet alittle wider? you said it yourself that running lighter components make power. you want me to provide informations regarding horse power gain from running a lighter pistons which i don't have. what make you think you are going to gain hp from lighten rods and not lighten pistons. na setup is all about bragging how much power you can squeeze out of an anemic motor. 3-5hp here and there add up. saying that you should not waste money on titanium rods is like saying you should not waste your money on going na. for 1500-3000 bux, you can get way more hp. na is what people want. why not encourage them to spend extra money to get more power?
    ultimate sleeper.

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    na car is only fast in a light weight shell. most turbo honda are slow because they run a turbo that is too laggy. unless you running around with a gutted crx or eg civic, good luck winning.

    my friend and i built a b18b 6 years ago. it has .040" over topline gsr pistons. he grinded some material off the bottom of pistons and zero out the weight with a scale.
    he also grinded about 2lb off the crank, rods and stock pistons. the whole assemble are balanced afterward at advance machine shop. the head was decked to the service limit mark (about .024"). the block was .018". we got the head welded at a metal fabrication place in hiram, georgia. home ported head. i ported the roof of intake and exhaust port and smooth out the short radius. fidanza aluminum flywheel with some weight machined and drilled out. this included some weight drilled out off the friction surface of the flywheel. 3 pucks ceramic clutch disc made by clutch specialty in marietta for 75 bucks with stock pressure plate. crower cams, valve springs, and retainers. home made 4-1header . safc. dsm 380cc injectors (non turbo 4g63). lighten stock cam gears by drilling some weight off the spokes. hacked and ported stock intake. short ram intake. vp 100 octane. 8 degree advance with the distributor. 265psi compression reading on a mac tool compression tester. we were hoping for 285psi but bs topline rings gap were bigger than we like. the motor had about 15% leak down because of this. he got 215hp on a dynojet with civic si rims and 200hp with konig 17in rims. not too bad for a poor man all motor b series. it was in an integra so it was slow as hell. best 1/8 mile was 8.6s.
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    rollin on eVos all-mota's Avatar
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    ftl
    Last edited by all-mota; 01-18-2010 at 10:00 AM. Reason: because ignorance always wins

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    Thnx alot!! I'm real new to the game but ia helping, up

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    all-mota. i forgot to response to your comparison between your friends' crx and integra. that is a nonsense comparison because one car is quit a bit heavy than the other. put that turbo engine into the crx and we can call it a comparison.


    i want to thank vteckidd for disclosing some of the parts that na guys should use in their build. i have talked to a lot of na guys that don't even know that those components existed. sad! vteckidd. can you post in another thread an official parts list and mods for hardcore na guys who do not car about spending money. tell us what it will takes to make 300hp or very close to it.
    Last edited by slowdsm; 01-18-2010 at 01:35 PM.
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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowdsm View Post

    . can you post in another thread an official parts list and mods for hardcore na guys who do not car about spending money. tell us what it will takes to make 300hp or very close to it.
    I wouldnt run a B Series, id run an H22 or a K24 way more cost effective.

    As the WHP goes up , the longevity of the motor goes down drastically. Its pretty common for K24 medium street motors to make 290-300whp. H22s can make 250-260 pretty easily

    B series if you are making over 260-270 its pretty much an all out race motor.

    I cant really name the parts because they are usually all CUSTOM one off parts. theres only about 5 people in the WORLD who ever made over 300WHP NA with a B Series and most of them are race teams.

    Skunk2
    Eriks Racing

    Those are the only 2 i can remember off the top of my head. Almost everyone runs K series now, B series is dead if you want to be competitive NA.
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    aluminum rods are better than Ti rods any day of the week.

    to make 300 is takes k series plain and simple. (insert your internals here)
    www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    also remember this thread is damn near 4 years old, a lot has changed in 4 years i prob could update this
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    Lets see an update then!! I wanna build my Ls/V or swap the block for a B20 and put my ITR head on it. This thread is very helpfull but if you have better stuff lets hear it.
    Work in progressneed slicks!

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    www.MSSRACING.com SPOOLIN's Avatar
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    B series is still king in the forced induction world, but you aint got anything if you have a b series NA car and are trying to really DO SOMETHING.
    www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
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    2 years ago i bought 25 brand new k20a2 heads from a place called cylinder head exhange. they got it from some surplus auction and did not know what they have. i got them each for 500 bux and sold them for 1300-1500. within 3 months, 24 were gone. i kept one and just sold it last year. needless to say, there is a lot of people doing k series swap. one guy in florida who bought one of my head email me to tell me he made 365hp with a k24/k20A2 combo. he had 15:1 compression with e85.
    Last edited by slowdsm; 01-19-2010 at 04:19 AM.
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    Please delete the garbage out of this thread. The retarded posts and my post as well, Thanks.
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    i second that.
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    hey guys dont listen to vteckidd, he dont know jack shit about allmotor
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    LOL
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnzm View Post
    hey guys dont listen to vteckidd, he dont know jack shit about allmotor
    his thread his post , the only way to settle this is go start your own if you can do better!
    88 crx hf lsvtec 153hp 117tq mainstream
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    Quote Originally Posted by Civichatch91 View Post
    I will never cheap out again...I should have known better

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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtragz View Post
    his thread his post , the only way to settle this is go start your own if you can do better!
    thats a good friend of mine hes just talking shit :P
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    thats a good friend of mine hes just talking shit :P
    oh ok well i had your back anyways lol , i got your header installed and drove it like 500 miles and some idiot pulled out in front of me and to keep from totaling my car i was forced to hop a curb and now shes got a flat spot n it its ok ins is payng me for the damage check out my avatar , oh and ill be headed down to scotty asap to get tuned
    88 crx hf lsvtec 153hp 117tq mainstream
    You always lose money chasin' hoes, but you never lose hoes chasin' money.

    Quote Originally Posted by Civichatch91 View Post
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    N/A POWAH! Gorilla Eg!'s Avatar
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    great write up! reps given




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    I got a b18b1, i want to put a vtec head on it and run ls vtec. what is some good suggestions to what i should do to get some hp out of it. I want it to be pretty reliable.

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    Newbie Photodude RBS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blaton22 View Post
    I got a b18b1, i want to put a vtec head on it and run ls vtec. what is some good suggestions to what i should do to get some hp out of it. I want it to be pretty reliable.

    it comes down whether or not you do or dont have alot of money to spend. cheapest sure fire method of reliability is ARP studs, ARP bolts, JDM ITR pistons, and a EXPERIENCED guru assemble it.


    a basemap or tune will definitely help it as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RBS View Post
    it comes down whether or not you do or dont have alot of money to spend. cheapest sure fire method of reliability is ARP studs, ARP bolts, JDM ITR pistons, and a EXPERIENCED guru assemble it.


    a basemap or tune will definitely help it as well.

    I have the money. I dont want to throw all my money at it at one time though. Kind of as i go process.

    With what you listed, what am i lookin at with WHP? just a rough estimate maybe?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blaton22 View Post
    I have the money. I dont want to throw all my money at it at one time though. Kind of as i go process.

    With what you listed, what am i lookin at with WHP? just a rough estimate maybe?

    what i listed will support your bottom end, to an extent lol. Ive seen a ITR/B20B bottom ALL STOCK gsr head/cams make 170 @ 8000 rpms, all stock. roughly, give or take more or less.. it was years ago


    you can "throw" some aftermarket cams in but at a certain point your head will not be able to flow anymore to support the cams, creating a bottleneck from power. i dont know if your understanding it but its the simplest i can put it LOL



    EDIT: i found this, http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2068126, it will give you an idea of whats needed for power. keep in mind whats listed is only the MAJOR components, smaller detail oriented things arent listed and is up to your engine builder. results may vary

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    Oh, ok. I appreciate the help! Ill post on here if i need anything else.

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    ^ Well put!

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    sick ass thread, i want an ls vtec now lol

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    he knows his stuff nice thread
    Drop Gearz

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    nice thread man

    jdmEg-3

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    this helps a lot


    yeahhhhhh you likeeeee when she does thattttttt

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    i was wondering how much power i can get out of a gsr block with b16 head (poor mans type r)

    heres a list of mods

    b16 head: basically built like a type r head
    type cams
    dual valve springs
    type r valves
    type r intake mani with tb
    and a mild port and polish
    injectors not sure what to get
    hytech tri- y headers with 2.5 exhaust piping

    bottom end
    je pistons 81 mm 11-1 compression
    eagle rods
    block guard
    stock crank shaft

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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    if its built right prob in the 185-195whp level on a dyno like mainstreams
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    Can anyone recommend a good machine shop in or around the Cumming area?
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    Good stuff

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