just wrap it with a kevlar vest
just wrap it with a kevlar vest
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Originally Posted by Ludester
The DC header is actually a knock off of the jdm mugen 4-1 header - which is why it flows better and is of such and such design.
The oem jdm itr 4-1 header is a compromise in clearance and performance + packaging constraints.
It is decent for the $ though... especially for ppl in CA who have to keep an oem looking engine bay to keep from getting ref'd and ticketed.
Last edited by Black R; 10-10-2006 at 09:10 PM.
Originally Posted by Tasuki_Civic
you caught that huh? lolOriginally Posted by 99SI
Mike and Black R thanks for the clarifaction(sp?)
+1 to mike for going fast for cheap , and dissing knife edging cranks lol ya got balls
What if you have a Toyota? I don't know of any performance shops that specialize in Toyotas, much less old Corolla's the way you guys specialize in Hondas.
I just bought 84.5 mm Wiseco's with a 10.8/1 C/R, as well as a Cometic Headgasket, and ARP Headstuds for when I put my heap back together agian. Do the shops listed above specialize in one kind of car, or would I be able to find someone to bore my block there.
any of the machine shops i have listed can do the work you need including assembly
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Oh and most importantly for all H22 FREAKIN REMOVE YOUR AUTO TIMING BELT!!!! It gonna give you trouble in the long run so might as well change it.
hey what would be the problem with goin with too high to a staged clutch on a stock motor? say a 4 puck sprung clutch on a stock h series? i heard u might have axle problems correct?
Stiff valvesprings can use stock valves. thats fine, but TOO stiff a spring, and itll were your combustion chamber an seats out pretty quickly.
most of todays springs an ret are made assuming your using stock valves , so they are pretty soft, an usually good for 9500rpms.
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I am pretty sure you can get a stroker crank from honda, its from the 88-91 honda preludes with the b20a/b21 engines. 95mm stroke! I am not 100% sure on the deck height but if its the same as the b18 then you people may be in luck.
That's an old school trick..... BUT there's some machinine work involved.Originally Posted by josh green
It is an option for those who want an oem crank AND have to use oem parts (some sanctioning bodies require all oem for certain classes).
Originally Posted by Tasuki_Civic
They do makes after market rods for the b20a/b21 engines. I know that you can get pauters for it all day long. Not that you couldnt get some company to make them for you. I soulnt suggest spinning it very high though, thats some hella side load, or pretty high pin placement.Originally Posted by Black R
I wouldn't take my lawn mower engine to scotts machine shop. Those guys are the biggest bunch of idiots on the southside! I've seen Kindergardeners do better shit with building blocks than them!Originally Posted by Mr. KiDD
maybe for V8 stuff , honda stuff i have never had a problem with them
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An engine is an engine. They do very poor "porting" work. Have you ever flowed a head that came from them? You would probably see a great difference in cfm between the runners. Aside from that, I have had several customers bring me stuff that came from scotts that have put me in disbelief. I'm not talking about just 1 experience, but countless. Anything and everything between bad port work, incorrectly drilled heads for studs (crooked studs), crankshafts journals turned undersized to where they would never hold oil pressure, and have to turn them again, incorrectly balancing rotating assemblies, etc, etc, etc.......... All I'm saying, if it's more than a simple valve job, you better watch what you get done from there.Originally Posted by Mr. KiDD
i have only used them 3-4 times for MACHINE work, never porting a head. I was always satisfied with my bore an hone jobs from them and the balancing i recieved ( i check over machine shops)
i have never had a head ported by them, but i figured they could handle valve jobs an such
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updated with MSPi CookBook
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i made the cut...hahahahaha
GECKO SQUAD MEMBER
MSS RACING REPRESENTA.....
the saga continues....
what about th f series
Good write up....
Its not very difficult to make good power with a N/A build, its just that most ppl are clueless on where to start and expect to see noticable gains from ebay bolt-ons.
If you've done your research on whats available and have the time and funds, you can definitely build an all-motor street car that will hang with the mild street turbo setups rolling about town.
And the guy that mentioned the D or B being favorable over an H has definitely never owned and H swapped car. They are by far the easiest honda motor, outside of the K, the reach the 200whp mark. Especially with keeping a stock block.
My newest H setup is as follows:
92 eh2 Dx
Jdm H22 Stock head & block for now
M2B4 tranny
Rocket Motorsports valve spring and retainer kit
OEM P13 flywheel shaved and balanced to 11lbs
OEM P13 intake pipe and Airbox
OEM intake manifold w/IAB's removed
OEM TB
OEM Jdm header
Exedy Stage1 clutch kit
Chipped P28 chipped w/crome PRO, running a custom basemap by Jason Wadsworth AKA "JDogg"
Untuned with no adjustments made 179whp 143wtq
Tuned by Jason it should make in the Low to Mid 190's as is.
Keep in mind this is a stock motor with only a light flywheel and valvesprings.
I just picked up a HotShot 4-1 w/3" collector and will also be purchasing some PRO1's, a 72-68 tapered TB, Decking the head 10 thousandths, bowl work by RLZ, 3" CAI and Euro R intake manifold. After i get everything together, then i'll have it tuned. It would be pointless to fork out the cash twice when i could just do it all at once.
I'm expecting to make around 215whp off this mild setup. I'll post up some numbers when its complete.
If it doesn't make the power i'm looking for, i've been considering some mahle 12:1 drop-ins.
Sorry for the rambling, just wanted to add some H22 knowledge into the thread....
The 200whp mark is very achievable on a h-series with just bolt ons. For any H22 guys, heres a short list of proven power adders....
Intake Manifolds - Euro R, DH racing, or stock with IAB's removed and Plenum spacer
The Skunk2 loses power even on built motors
TB's- S2 70mm, DH racing tapered 72-68mm, ericks racing, etc...
Intakes - 3" cold air has been dyno proven to be the most efficient on H22's
Cams- Type S for mild, S2 Pro1's are best for stock compression, Pro2's, JUN3's
VS & retainers- Rocket Motorsports are the best for the price hands down.
S2 Ti retainers have shown early wear on H22's. >10k miles
Valves- S2, ferrea, etc...
Pistons- Mahle drop-ins are the only piston that will work without resleeving
Headers- RMF, SMSP, Hytech, AN-R/Prospeed, Hotshot, Weapon R, Jdm 4-2-1
*DC, *OBX, etc... Dyno lower numbers than the OEM Jdm.
Exhaust- Crazy, but also dyno proven. H22's love 3" exhaust. They make more
mid-range and peak HP with 3" over any other size.
Porting & Bowl work- Proper porting can improve any motor, but the gains achieved
Porting and polishing H22 heads have shown to be minimal in
comparison with other series honda motors. Bowl work, however,
has increased gains as much as 15whp with the correct
supporting setup.
thats all for now. The key with the H22 as with any N/A setup is to increase the airflow as much as possible. The H-series love to breath and thrive when allowed to.
-donnie
H POWA!
Awesome write up man
what do you have to say about an n/a d-series?
CP
not really worth the money, the most extreme but still streetable motors MIGHT make 160whp.
thats a built motor with crazy ported head and cam and a BALLER header.
for reference, STOCK GSRs make that much power with 87 octane
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damn u just killed my already fragile dreams
CP
just what i needed
dfafa
Any words for the K-Series? Specifically the new Z3?
Love what you guys are doing!
i havent gotten to Ks yet, but i have done alot of them.
PM me what ytou want to know
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my brother (jenson) was telling me about the header test you guys did a long time ago.
pretty much saying how even a really nice header really wont be making much of a difference.
it was a funny story though.
ATL_DA_Squad #3
STREET<3LOVE
what do you think of a b20 bottom end and a b18 non vtec head setup.
I totally missed that lol. Tell jenson i said hi i havent seen him in forever.Originally Posted by NAG2I
The RMF header made 10whp over a DC header, i think thats a pretty good gain for $700 at the time
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wooohoooo! 70 dollars/hp.
GCO Member
NRA Member
would a aftermarket flywheel/clutch setup make a difference in some applications?
Within a LS Vtec setup, you think a block girdle is needed?
no the girdle is over-rated unless you are going to be seriously road racing the car.
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Thanks, seemed like all the post that i read that reference a girdle was an older post.Originally Posted by Vteckidd
in a street car its fine. My 2.0l engine ran a 89mm crank with no girdle and repeatedly saw 9500+ RPMs with no issues
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Kidd has a new motor coming soon
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I know what it is!!!!!Originally Posted by Vteckidd