can anyone tell me the engine specs.. and anything else you know about a 2004 Sentra SE-R spec-v?? it's a 5-speed btw..
can anyone tell me the engine specs.. and anything else you know about a 2004 Sentra SE-R spec-v?? it's a 5-speed btw..
should be a 6 speed?
The EMPIRE
eww.. lol no it was between 2 of em.. and the cheaper one is 5-speed so i'ma settleOriginally Posted by EmminoDaGreat
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^^^ That shit is awesome...oh man, lol.
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From a Boosted Scion tC to a 1JZ-GTE SC300 to 2JZ-GTE SC300
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No such thing as a 5speed Spec V. All Spec Vs come with the 6speed. You can get the 5speed SE-R, but it has plain interior, softer shocks, and an open diff. Don't waste your time with it, get a Spec V.
Somethin like 170hp/175ft-lb, fwd, solid rear axle, 2750lbs, 6speed w/helical LSD, 17" rims, runs low 15s stock, handles awesome, excellent aftermarket support. 2.5L all-aluminum, open deck DOHC 16V engine, with continuously variable intake cam timing, dual-stage intake manifold, electronic (drive-by-wire) throttle, hollow camshafts, 04+ have wideband o2 stock. They get 22/28mpg. Respond very well to mods. Good enough?
Go to www.b15sentra.net or thevboard.com
welll......shit........that answered the question!!!!!!!Originally Posted by SpecV_Scott
i love you??Originally Posted by SpecV_Scott
lol naw the fuckers told me they had it then my mom called and they were like oh we sold it, someone else called about it too..
I drive a SpecV everyday ( daily driver ). Pretty quick and is def Fun to drive.. handles pretty damn good too.
=]
People are selling them all the time on www.b15sentra.net , and they're often already modded. I would definately reccomend 03 or newer, becuase the 02s had crappy engine internals, and the gear ratios were kind of whack. They fixed all of that in 03. BUT, in 04, they switched to the plain-looking front end. Check it out:
02-03 front end:
04+ front end:
I just used yellow cause I found those pics really fast. Mine is black, and if I had to do it over again, I'd probably get silver (VERY easy to keep clean). But black looks sick.
The only other major revision was in 04 they went to a wideband 02 sensor and slightly better tuning. So they average around 5whp more. Personally, I'd look for an 03. They're VERY cheap right now, look the best, and don't have any internal engine issues liek the 02s did. PM if you want any more info (or if you wanna know what kind of mods can do what, etc).
- Scott
03 > 04
I was considering selling my 02 sentra awhile back!!!!! even it being an 02 SE still got alot of calls on it, veyr nice cars!!!!
tony that google pic attachment is awsome![]()
04's and up have shorter gear ratios aswell. and its not just a small difference. So sorry, Ill take speed over looks anyday.
*02's also had bad ECU problems aswell, but I do like the red interior.
But he is right, If your going to buy a SE-R mine as well go the win. Not much more, and they are not TOO hard to find.
Last edited by Lancer_Jordan; 02-26-2006 at 12:50 PM.
Sorry the front end on the 04+ looks terrible.Originally Posted by Lancer_Jordan
For the power diffrence wich im willing to bet it Almost feels like nothing, I would go with the 03 front end.
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I don't know the big dif between the 04+ and previous but I have driven a '01 and I have to agree with julio, the power is really nothing, don't get me wrong, it runs but the redline sucks, you get full power around 5500rpm or so but redline at like 6500 or so. They use the same concept as vtec, vvt-i or something.Originally Posted by Julio
If you drove an 01 it was not a Spec V. There is a difference between a Sentra SER and a Sentra SER Spec V.Originally Posted by krucial7integra
Originally Posted by Lancer_Jordan
Also you are talking about a 6 speed tranny, so the gearing between 03+ Spec Vs are minimal differences... they are already ridculously short as it is. In fact, the "not so loved" 02 tranny is close to the 03, the biggest difference being the ratios between 2nd and 3rd gear were GARBAGE in the 02. The revs go to sh*t during the 2 --> 3 shift. VERY fun car to drive though, and also puts way more cars in its rear-view than it should, even stock.At one point my spec was the fastest STOCK run on www.b15.net at 14.9 (Darlington)... I got a freak from factory I guess... the yellow paint adds HP!!
But there are a few guys who recorded high 14.80s stock as well.
Last edited by BABY J; 02-27-2006 at 08:05 AM.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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OK, you're way off. 01 Sentra might have been an SE, which is a SR20DE w/5spd. COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENGINE. They have no variable valve timing, .5L less displacement, are heavier, etc, etc, etc.Originally Posted by krucial7integra
And even if you're talking about the 02+ SE-R's engine (QR25DE), you're still off. It is NOTHING like VTEC. VTEC uses two sets of lobes on the camshaft...the engine stays on the smaller lobe until X rpms, then switches to the bigger lobe. The QR25DE uses continuously variable timing. Meaning it will advance or retard the timing on the intake cam depending on driving conditions and throttle position.
There is another "switchover," but that is merely the dual-stage intake runners opening up the short runners at 5000rpms.
Please do a little research before posting about something you know little about. Thanks.
Scott
I'm pretty sure it's still only a slight difference in acceleration and/or 1/4mi times. I've wasted several 04s, even before I had as many mods as I do now.Originally Posted by Lancer_Jordan
Here's the best of both worlds:
Get an 04+ with the Brembo brake package.
Get the following from an 02 or 03: Hood, headlights, front bumper, fog lights
BAM! More power/efficiency of the 04+, and the looks of an 02/03.
Originally Posted by SpecV_Scott
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It is a slight difference, nothing special, and i always thought about doing the o3 conversion, but thats money i can spend on the conversion. And I got the nismo lip now so...yeah.
What mods do you have anyway?
Only I/h/e. But I hope to do some other stuff soon. But seriously, all thse spec v people need to meet up, i got like 3 other specs i hang out with.
But if you guys are going to Varsity thursday just call. 6783605311
IHE is a decent gain for the Spec. The BSR is about 8 whp alone (balance shaft removal). I went a route that most do not go on my Spec, but if I could do it over I woudl haev simply sleeved, forged, and boosted the QR. My setup is potent don't get me wrong... but it drinx gas, and also finding a decent Motec Tuner is hard. Here are SOME of the details on my N/A Spec V. it took my USAF medical retirement pay to fund, but if I could do it over I wouldn't... I could have went boost for more HP cheaper. But I have ran some of the boosted Specs and I blow 'em away. I'd be lying if I said I don't have boost envy though --> www.seriouscustoms.com/sunbeltprogressOriginally Posted by Lancer_Jordan
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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Here are the ratio's, yea the 04+'s are short but not nearly as bad as the 02-03'sOriginally Posted by Lancer_Jordan
2002 spec v
Gear Ratios
1 : 3.417:1
2 : 1.944:1
3 : 1.258:1
4 : 0.947:1
5 : 0.773:1
6 : 0.630:1
Final drive : 4.429:1
2004 spec v
1: 3.153
2: 1.944
3: 1.392
4: 1.055
5: 0.0809
6: 0.673
Final Drive 4.133
ok.. well i'm getting a call about a 240 and a sentra, so.. btw i'm not gonna be looking at the front end while i'm driving.. AND.. i like the 04+ better anyway
It's all about what you want NEway.Originally Posted by LemonAJAX
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"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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^^^^ That's hot!
Here's my mod list:
AEBS 4-1 header/midpipe/racecat
Thermal R&D header
A'PEXi SAFC-2 dyno tuned
JWT BSR
ES motor mount inserts
Axxion short shifter
ebay intake
SWA lightweight crank pulley
relocated/insulated knock sensor
t/b bypass mod
Progress springs
RS Limited Concept Pro 17x7 w/Wanli S-1099 225/45-17
NISMO rsb
Slotted/drilled rotors (warped as hell)
Couple cosmetic things here and there
About to install the rear upper strut mounts (get back another 1.5" of travel)
Think that's it. I haven't done shit to it lately becuase I've been working on my Mirage Turbo. I'd like to get one of those air diversion panels though.
OH YEAH...the best part: I get like 25-26city and 29/30hwy. (stock is supposed to be 22/28). My SAFC has more than paid for itself!
I have a short shifter and SAfc, but they really didnt do anything.
The BSF...i heard that was hard to do, is this true?? And the light weight crank, have you had any issues with it?? cause im thinking about gettin one soon.
On the 05's they started puting Push shifters in, because to many people were missing 6th and wound up grinding our most used gear... But all the o4's and lower ofcourse, were denied this "great" feature...i really dont care for it, but i checked the parts reference, and there really isnt a way to get rid of that...not with nissan parts anyway...Originally Posted by T0PS3-R
what thing u have to pull to go in reverse? the shifter?
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.
Yeah, that makes no sense. You push the shifter all the way to the right, then back.
Lancer_Jordan: PMed ya. And the Crank pulley install wasn't bad. I've been driving on it for almost 2 years with no problems. Definitely worth the money. Also, mine is NOT an underdrive pulley. IMO underdriving sux because you have less power going to the alternator, which makes your car idle like crap. The lightweight one simply replaces your 8lb pulley with an aluminum one that's the exact same size but only weighs 15oz!
As far as you SAFC....you have to get it tuned on the dyno. I gained about 8whp from tuning. Plus I get better gas mileage now (2-3mpg better on average).
You can tune it with a wideband data logger like a zt-2. Just tune it for a 13.1 a/f ratio, that's the magic number for the qr motor. The ECU will automagicly readjust the a/f ratio over time and adjustments below 50% throttle and 3000 rpms will instantly be overriden by the closed loop function and matain a 14.7 a/f ratio. If you have a data logger and some SAFC tuning knowlege you can tune it yourself. You can also cut/disconnect the primary and secondary O2 signal wires and the ECU will run in open loop all the time and never set any fuel trims, meaning your tune will never drift off (but you'll get an occasional engine light). I should have my SAFC-ll and ZT-2 data logger in the next week, I'll post some graphs when it's set up. You can also wire the throttle input of the safc to a MAP sensor (you have to add a MAP sensor) instead of the TPS (both are a 0-5v signal) and base adjustments on manifold pressure instead of throttle position (that's what I'll be doing). The ZT-2 will log a/f, tps, rpm, map voltage, egt, knock, ait, maf, and just about any other sensor you want to monitor.Originally Posted by SpecV_Scott
Last edited by Big J; 03-07-2006 at 09:13 PM.
[QUOTE=SpecV_Scott]
Lancer_Jordan: PMed ya. And the Crank pulley install wasn't bad. I've been driving on it for almost 2 years with no problems. Definitely worth the money. Also, mine is NOT an underdrive pulley. IMO underdriving sux because you have less power going to the alternator, which makes your car idle like crap. The lightweight one simply replaces your 8lb pulley with an aluminum one that's the exact same size but only weighs 15oz!
QUOTE]
True, but the alternator is regulated (gotta love solid state electronics), if you ever hooked up a voltmeter to an underdriven Spec, you will see that the volts are still the same as stock. But this effect WILL come into play, say... uhhh... at idle, w/ the AC on, headlights on bright, fogs on, and a big audio setup. LOL. Anything over idle though and you should be fine to underdrive.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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my safc has been tuned before, but are you saying that when i do install the light crank pulley, i need to retune? Cause that was NOT on my plan list...
I haven't looked into it... but if it is simply an electronic lock then it shoudl be fairly easy to devise a work-around.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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i dont know about that, I work on nissans all day, and im not sure its to easy to remove or "disable" a push shifter...wouldnt hurt to try i guess....
if it is mechanical, meaning that the "push" lever PHYSICALLY unlocks something, then you're basically stuck with it. However if the "lever" simply opens or closes and ELECTRONIC lock, then you wire into the lock and you can devise your own switch to engage/disenage the circuit. Also if it's electronic, you can hardwire the circuit open/closed.Originally Posted by Lancer_Jordan
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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im sure if i had that I would want to remove it too...
I love my spec 5....hahahahah
SAFC-ll went in today. Took me about an hour, my ZT-2 data logger hasn't gotten here yet, but hopefully it will be here this week. I made some modest corrections with the SAFC anyway and it feels great.