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Thread: what would be a good intake for an srt-4

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    Default what would be a good intake for an srt-4

    i am about to buy an intake for my srt4 and i was wondering what would be tha best intake for it.

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    ANT????????..............wheres Spike????????........he needs some advise..................1

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    If I had to swap out my stock airbox, I would go with a cold air intake system that you can convert to short ram just in case the weather gets bad. I'm running consistent 12.3's (12.2 best) with the stock airbox and a Mopar drop-in so the stock system is good enough for me.
    2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4

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    I have the ICEMAN cold air intake..It's the most work out of all SRT intakes but is most effective. First you remove the Battery and mounting plate..The kit comes with a battery relocation kit..it mounts the battery next to the engine and the intake goes out around where your battery is now then through the fender to filter in wheel well. This creates a straighter flow path as well as a cooler intake pipe..It's PVC as well so resists heating. Its a tough install but the most effective intake..Let me know if you need help..BTW can be ordered on www.modernperformance.com in I think Blk. Yellow and RED

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    INJEN.

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    Mopar CAI.....best on the market.

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    Intugly tybalt6691's Avatar
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    I would recomment using a water hose for your intake. That will give you an excuse to get rid of your NEON!

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    and what do u drive that is so much betta

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    Quote Originally Posted by tybalt6691
    I would recomment using a water hose for your intake. That will give you an excuse to get rid of your NEON!
    Tell Ya what..anytime you want to see a Neon knock down your Teg. Holla at me
    oH BTW its RECOMMEND not recomment

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    Intugly tybalt6691's Avatar
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    Ok i dont know how to spell and i dont really have anything against an SRT-4 for 20,000 its pretty fast. I just look at them as a NEON not really and SRT-4. Sorry for giving u guys a hard time.

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    Top End In yu mudascunt purplehazing's Avatar
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    hey hi ty fella buddy chum pal can we chit chat for a few thanx well it seems u have a prob with neons.now what i want to know is which one of your bullies drove a neon to school cuz on behalf of him i am sorry for the harassment that u took but i was wondering the same q as above what do u drive i hope its not a teg and if so i hope for your sake its quick now as for me i am not trying to trash talk or down grade cuz hey i like acuras but please and i did say please don't hate on neons cuz they are different just appreciate the fact that america made a sport compact car that is actually worth owning no offense to anyone else and as far as your car goes bring it to the track and we will see what u working with ok thanx for the convo oh yeah a srt and a neon are different different engine different exhuast different hood front bumper etc etc etc etc...
    I will put my foot in your mudascunt

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    and for tha money u cant beat an srt there fast for tha price and they look good. i no mine and mastakilla does

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    ^^^ vvvv
    *** Underconstruction ***

    Quote Originally Posted by purplehazing
    and kryp shit there's no catching him unless he wants u to haha

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    ghostgal
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    K&N , AEM or Injen all good intakes for srts.

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    Look at the stats.....only one that gives you the biggest HP gains is the MOPAR CAI...nothing comes close in HP and Tourqe gains...dont waste your time with any others.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spike
    Look at the stats.....only one that gives you the biggest HP gains is the MOPAR CAI...nothing comes close in HP and Tourqe gains...dont waste your time with any others.
    Hey sorry to burst your bubble but the dyno numbers for the iceman are dynoed at +13hp and 12+torque found at http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx/srt4_index.shtml and the mopar CAI is not even +10 hp dynoed found at http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...i+dyno+numbers BTW they said with the Mopar CAI you would need a catback to even get +10hp
    I like Mopar just like everyone else..but there are better more effective parts that are even cheaper because they don't carry the Mother Mopar sticker..just my But I like em all just thought I'd help clarify

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    Quote Originally Posted by tybalt6691
    I would recomment using a water hose for your intake. That will give you an excuse to get rid of your NEON!
    hahahahahahahah+1


    to help out on the subject, i buy most of my stuff from HERE, they have a ggod selections for your NEON JK, these guys are great, and ship really fast.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MastaKilla2003
    Hey sorry to burst your bubble but the dyno numbers for the iceman are dynoed at +13hp and 12+torque found at http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx/srt4_index.shtml and the mopar CAI is not even +10 hp dynoed found at http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...i+dyno+numbers BTW they said with the Mopar CAI you would need a catback to even get +10hp
    I like Mopar just like everyone else..but there are better more effective parts that are even cheaper because they don't carry the Mother Mopar sticker..just my But I like em all just thought I'd help clarify

    Dont forget about the Iceman voiding your warranty because it rest on the master cylinder and will eventually bust it....trust me I know, and the MC is not a cheap piece to buy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spike
    Dont forget about the Iceman voiding your warranty because it rest on the master cylinder and will eventually bust it....trust me I know, and the MC is not a cheap piece to buy.
    I hear ya...but if you got any power put into the car the warranty has been gone long ago..I have had the Iceman for 1 1/2 years and though yes it was a bitch to put in (moving the battery and silinodes) it works great and is a far more effective piece. It's also $70 cheaper than Mopar's and makes More power with it's straighter design and not running next to the motor like the Mopar unit-also Mopars is metal causeing it to conduct heat and get hot quick. Not saying Mopar's is bad I love it..but research will reveal cheaper better parts.

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    Go with the Injen SRI. You don't need a CAI. The turbo will heat the air up anyways. Invest in a good BFMIC also. You also don't have to worry about sucking in water with the SRI.
    Jason
    SRT-4/stock turbo
    Best ET 12.9
    Best Trap 113 with 93/C-12
    270hp/330tq with 93


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    Save your money and stick with the stocker. If it's good enough for stg 3 peeps pushing 370 on high octane mode, it's more then good enough for most ppl. The only gains you might see come from the flow, not the air temp, as our cars adjust boost accordingly. I had an AEM Sri, was the biggest waste of moola. Only good thing about it, it free'd up some room under the hood. Sounding like a semi gets old real fast. If you HAVE to do something to the intake, do the hood mod, mod the scoop insert and remove the air box lid when you want the sound. I'm back to the stock box and it runs better with that then it ever did when I had the SRI. The hood mod will provide you with cool airflow over the filter at speed.....

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    i went with tha k&n cai, cuz i got it for $100 from a buddy in need of sum money

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo04
    Save your money and stick with the stocker. If it's good enough for stg 3 peeps pushing 370 on high octane mode, it's more then good enough for most ppl. The only gains you might see come from the flow, not the air temp, as our cars adjust boost accordingly. I had an AEM Sri, was the biggest waste of moola. Only good thing about it, it free'd up some room under the hood. Sounding like a semi gets old real fast. If you HAVE to do something to the intake, do the hood mod, mod the scoop insert and remove the air box lid when you want the sound. I'm back to the stock box and it runs better with that then it ever did when I had the SRI. The hood mod will provide you with cool airflow over the filter at speed.....

    I am still running my stocker...had a SRI and it was killing my boost pulling the hot ass engine heat into it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo04
    Save your money and stick with the stocker. If it's good enough for stg 3 peeps pushing 370 on high octane mode, it's more then good enough for most ppl. The only gains you might see come from the flow, not the air temp, as our cars adjust boost accordingly. I had an AEM Sri, was the biggest waste of moola. Only good thing about it, it free'd up some room under the hood. Sounding like a semi gets old real fast. If you HAVE to do something to the intake, do the hood mod, mod the scoop insert and remove the air box lid when you want the sound. I'm back to the stock box and it runs better with that then it ever did when I had the SRI. The hood mod will provide you with cool airflow over the filter at speed.....
    Well yes and no...the CAI mounts a filter in the wheel well with out the restriction of the stock air box's non 360 degree filter/air intake (filter square and sealed in half)..also your PVC valve cover is pumping oil into you air box and into the engine..yes a catch can will elim. this. My CAI is ALOT larger by about 2 inches in diam. and runs where you battery is soo straight flow few bends..the stocker bends like 4 times and is pressed up against the engine only making the charge air hotter...check www.modernperformance.com and see the dyno diff. between stock and ICEMAN CAI and you see over +13HP AND 12 torque so this is no doubt the stock air box is restrictive and harmful to the motors longeveity with the oil recycleing action it performs. Also with a correctly modded engine the car controls no boost or timing no matter what temp..such as my ride the car controls none of my fuel, boost, pull timing function so CAI is VERY important in this case. I use no stock turbo selinodes! I can help any SRT4 owner to make huge power with min. money if you guys want help..listen to some imput..or have me come to your house to help you with a build up free..let me know..We can all learn from each other. Just my BTW the myth of the CAI sucking in water you would have to drive through a 2 foot deep puddle and then in that case your stocker would pull in water cause it' "ram air" tunnle is in the wheel well as well. So if your not 4 wheeling it don't worry.
    Last edited by SpoolBus; 02-15-2006 at 06:37 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MastaKilla2003
    Well yes and no...the CAI mounts a filter in the wheel well with out the restriction of the stock air box's non 360 degree filter/air intake (filter square and sealed in half)..also your PVC valve cover is pumping oil into you air box and into the engine..yes a catch can will elim. this. My CAI is ALOT larger by about 2 inches in diam. and runs where you battery is soo straight flow few bends..the stocker bends like 4 times and is pressed up against the engine only making the charge air hotter...check www.modernperformance.com and see the dyno diff. between stock and ICEMAN CAI and you see over +13HP AND 12 torque so this is no doubt the stock air box is restrictive and harmful to the motors longeveity with the oil recycleing action it performs. Also with a correctly modded engine the car controls no boost or timing no matter what temp..such as my ride the car controls none of my fuel, boost, pull timing function so CAI is VERY important in this case. I use no stock turbo selinodes! I can help any SRT4 owner to make huge power with min. money if you guys want help..listen to some imput..or have me come to your house to help you with a build up free..let me know..We can all learn from each other. Just my BTW the myth of the CAI sucking in water you would have to drive through a 2 foot deep puddle and then in that case your stocker would pull in water cause it' "ram air" tunnle is in the wheel well as well. So if your not 4 wheeling it don't worry.

    Couldn't agree with you more. I need to get some type of management system for mine to contol all that shit, granted im pushing mid 350hp range, but want to break that....AGP 60 goes on order the end of the month hopefully....masta you can come help me install it. I am also going to order there fuel system upgrade with it and the return fuel line kit....then its off to buy a clutch. After is all said and done, I want to be right at 500 HP..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spike
    Couldn't agree with you more. I need to get some type of management system for mine to contol all that shit, granted im pushing mid 350hp range, but want to break that....AGP 60 goes on order the end of the month hopefully....masta you can come help me install it. I am also going to order there fuel system upgrade with it and the return fuel line kit....then its off to buy a clutch. After is all said and done, I want to be right at 500 HP..

    Ya...I ordered the Hahn Racecraft Super 20G TODAY..get in 5-7 days..Now all I need is my Alky injection (Boost cooler-Snow perfrmance) and I will be doing alright

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    You know i looked at that 20G....let me know how it turns out. Might go with it vs the 60 trim from AGP. AGP thinks highly of there shit, seen there stage 4 kit? 4200 bucks for that shit, but they gaurntee high 400hp range with it. Think I would go with the Garrett twin ball bearing turbo with that setup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spike
    You know i looked at that 20G....let me know how it turns out. Might go with it vs the 60 trim from AGP. AGP thinks highly of there shit, seen there stage 4 kit? 4200 bucks for that shit, but they gaurntee high 400hp range with it. Think I would go with the Garrett twin ball bearing turbo with that setup.
    Ya..I looked into ALL Co's Fullybuilt,AGP,Kinectic, and found that Hahn has been making turbo kits for Neon's since day 1...The kit was $1642 for Super 20G fully polished and ceramic coated del. to my door. AGP polish and coat extra $400 on top of 1,800+ for 50 trim (before shipping). Plus Hahn uses stock coolant and oil feeds to keep turbo from burning up (some kits don't). There test car with the Super 20G did 11.8 1/4 on street tires and the 20G can produce support up to 500HP. You can get the kit in a week..instead of months with AGP. I looked at the DD GAR. 3071R kit..but the kit alone is $2,400 before any polishing or coating or shipping..Sooo you would be looking at over 3 large to get the kit how you want it. Hahn best fit, options, and Bang for your Buck--With Experience to back it up

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    I'd be very interested to know how you got the pcm to pull no timing on your car. The only way I can see that happening is to run a complete stand alone, such as AEM's unit, and it's not out yet....The dodge/mopar pcm will adjust timing based on alot of factors. My pcm doesn't control boost either, but it still adjusts timing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo04
    I'd be very interested to know how you got the pcm to pull no timing on your car. The only way I can see that happening is to run a complete stand alone, such as AEM's unit, and it's not out yet....The dodge/mopar pcm will adjust timing based on alot of factors. My pcm doesn't control boost either, but it still adjusts timing.
    FUEL/ AFR & STOCK BOOST SENSORS
    Get rid off all selinoids(turbo/throttle) I got a thread to help ya there..then use a SAFCII to run the fuel then electronic boost cont.(my ) then the computer(mine is stage 1) does not see boost levels nor fuel levels (AFR's) levels and mother MOPAR thinks all is running well...and NO TIMING PULLED..Only when the PCM sees an over boost (code) or lean AFR's when you jack your boost up will the car fight back with timing....I can run 20+ PSI on stocker(prob hit 24 w/race fuel) with drop to 18PSI at red...with out ANY problems....I even have a MAP CLAMP (brand new) never used cause I did the above and the car thinks all is running stock BTW Map Clamp for sale if you want...itll cure your timing pull probs. for $30(DASMOPAR)
    Last edited by SpoolBus; 02-20-2006 at 06:14 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MastaKilla2003
    FUEL/ AFR & STOCK BOOST SENSORS
    Get rid off all selinoids(turbo/throttle) I got a thread to help ya there..then use a SAFCII to run the fuel then electronic boost cont.(my ) then the computer(mine is stage 1) does not see boost levels nor fuel levels (AFR's) levels and mother MOPAR thinks all is running well...and NO TIMING PULLED..Only when the PCM sees an over boost (code) or lean AFR's when you jack your boost up will the car fight back with timing....I can run 20+ PSI on stocker(prob hit 24 w/race fuel) with drop to 18PSI at red...with out ANY problems....I even have a MAP CLAMP (brand new) never used cause I did the above and the car thinks all is running stock BTW Map Clamp for sale if you want...itll cure your timing pull probs. for $30(DASMOPAR)
    actually I was under the impression the car will still pull timing based on the knock sensor. Mopar stg 1 does not ignore the knock sensor, if anything it's far more sensitve to it. (stg 1 pcm here also) and the SAFC is a map clamp, albeit a very expensive one. Stg 1 pcm removes the fuel cut so the only way the pcm has left to defend against a blown engine is to pull timing. Also the pcm will still see boost via the map sensor, but it'll only see what you want it to see (afc comes into play here) Any #'s on the afr's or anything with 20+ psi? I'm assuming your on the stock fuel set up (or stg 1 based on your year) I have noticed from my personal experiance, that a stg 1 pcm will pull far more timing if it thinks anything at all is wrong then the stg 0 pcm. That being said stg 1's fuel maps are more agressive and gives you extra fuel to play with. Now if your running a return line, take my last statement and chuck it cause then you have as much fuel as you need. keep in mind also that our cars stock have been known to run 1700+ egt's so leaning that out even more just makes it even hotter, which leads to stuff cracking... I'm really interested to know what what the afr's and egt's your running with your set up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo04
    actually I was under the impression the car will still pull timing based on the knock sensor. Mopar stg 1 does not ignore the knock sensor, if anything it's far more sensitve to it. (stg 1 pcm here also) and the SAFC is a map clamp, albeit a very expensive one. Stg 1 pcm removes the fuel cut so the only way the pcm has left to defend against a blown engine is to pull timing. Also the pcm will still see boost via the map sensor, but it'll only see what you want it to see (afc comes into play here) Any #'s on the afr's or anything with 20+ psi? I'm assuming your on the stock fuel set up (or stg 1 based on your year) I have noticed from my personal experiance, that a stg 1 pcm will pull far more timing if it thinks anything at all is wrong then the stg 0 pcm. That being said stg 1's fuel maps are more agressive and gives you extra fuel to play with. Now if your running a return line, take my last statement and chuck it cause then you have as much fuel as you need. keep in mind also that our cars stock have been known to run 1700+ egt's so leaning that out even more just makes it even hotter, which leads to stuff cracking... I'm really interested to know what what the afr's and egt's your running with your set up.
    Wow good very good..you have been studying I have RC750cc injectors/Perrin Big Bore fuel rail/Return system w/Aeromotive FPR and Walbro fuel pump/SAFCII-answer your fuel question? My car runs very rich..partly in due to the LARGE AMOUNT of fuel upgrades w/stock turbo..pulling back about 28% duty on injectors....But I did all these upgrades 1st..in part to see what the stock turbo could push with all supporting mods(minus NO2 or Alky inject) then I ordered the Turbo upgrade last...But trust me..you can push over 330WTQ with this setup w/no prob...regardless of what you have heard or being said..I been doing it for about a year daily driven

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    Quote Originally Posted by MastaKilla2003
    Wow good very good..you have been studying I have RC750cc injectors/Perrin Big Bore fuel rail/Return system w/Aeromotive FPR and Walbro fuel pump/SAFCII-answer your fuel question? My car runs very rich..partly in due to the LARGE AMOUNT of fuel upgrades w/stock turbo..pulling back about 28% duty on injectors....But I did all these upgrades 1st..in part to see what the stock turbo could push with all supporting mods(minus NO2 or Alky inject) then I ordered the Turbo upgrade last...But trust me..you can push over 330WTQ with this setup w/no prob...regardless of what you have heard or being said..I been doing it for about a year daily driven
    I believe the 750's are overkill even running the 24lbs. I have no doubt you can push that with the stocker, however your way out of it's efficency range at those boost lvls. Bigger turbo and 750's = fun. I'm pushing 20 spike/15 by redline on stg 1 pcm right now. Last dyno I was at 16lbs solid on stg 2 wga and stg 1 pcm barely creeping over 10:1, so I know there is plenty of fuel there....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo04
    I believe the 750's are overkill even running the 24lbs. I have no doubt you can push that with the stocker, however your way out of it's efficency range at those boost lvls. Bigger turbo and 750's = fun. I'm pushing 20 spike/15 by redline on stg 1 pcm right now. Last dyno I was at 16lbs solid on stg 2 wga and stg 1 pcm barely creeping over 10:1, so I know there is plenty of fuel there....
    Cool...you are doing good for only stage 1? Ya..I am waiting for my Hahn Racecraft Super 20G kit to come in..prob in a week..also ordered Akly injection kit so putting both in and with all the current mods. should be fun

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Welcome back to ImportAtlanta. We are currently undergoing many changes, so please report any issues you encounter with the site using the 'Contact Us' button below. Thank you!