what would be a good intake for an srt-4

[G2BGONE]

i am about to buy an intake for my srt4 and i was wondering what would be tha best intake for it.

[blackboi50]

ANT????????..............wheres Spike????????........he needs some advise..................1

[Member31410]

If I had to swap out my stock airbox, I would go with a cold air intake system that you can convert to short ram just in case the weather gets bad. I'm running consistent 12.3's (12.2 best) with the stock airbox and a Mopar drop-in so the stock system is good enough for me.

[SpoolBus]

I have the ICEMAN cold air intake..It's the most work out of all SRT intakes but is most effective. First you remove the Battery and mounting plate..The kit comes with a battery relocation kit..it mounts the battery next to the engine and the intake goes out around where your battery is now then through the fender to filter in wheel well. This creates a straighter flow path as well as a cooler intake pipe..It's PVC as well so resists heating. Its a tough install but the most effective intake..Let me know if you need help..BTW can be ordered on www.modernperformance.com in I think Blk. Yellow and RED

[Nitro]

INJEN.

[Spike]

Mopar CAI.....best on the market.

[tybalt6691]

I would recomment using a water hose for your intake. That will give you an excuse to get rid of your NEON!

[SpoolBus]

I would recomment using a water hose for your intake. That will give you an excuse to get rid of your NEON!

Tell Ya what..anytime you want to see a Neon knock down your Teg. Holla at me
oH BTW its RECOMMEND not recomment

[rolling_trip]

I would recomment using a water hose for your intake. That will give you an excuse to get rid of your NEON!

hahahahahahahah+1


to help out on the subject, i buy most of my stuff from HERE, they have a ggod selections for your NEON JK, these guys are great, and ship really fast.

[G2BGONE]

and what do u drive that is so much betta

[tybalt6691]

Ok i dont know how to spell and i dont really have anything against an SRT-4 for 20,000 its pretty fast. I just look at them as a NEON not really and SRT-4. Sorry for giving u guys a hard time.

[purplehazing]

hey hi ty fella buddy chum pal can we chit chat for a few thanx well it seems u have a prob with neons.now what i want to know is which one of your bullies drove a neon to school cuz on behalf of him i am sorry for the harassment that u took but i was wondering the same q as above what do u drive i hope its not a teg and if so i hope for your sake its quick now as for me i am not trying to trash talk or down grade cuz hey i like acuras but please and i did say please don't hate on neons cuz they are different just appreciate the fact that america made a sport compact car that is actually worth owning no offense to anyone else and as far as your car goes bring it to the track and we will see what u working with ok thanx for the convo oh yeah a srt and a neon are different different engine different exhuast different hood front bumper etc etc etc etc...

[G2BGONE]

and for tha money u cant beat an srt there fast for tha price and they look good. i no mine and mastakilla does

[Kryptonite]

^^^ vvvv

[dtbd]

K&N , AEM or Injen all good intakes for srts.

[Spike]

Look at the stats.....only one that gives you the biggest HP gains is the MOPAR CAI...nothing comes close in HP and Tourqe gains...dont waste your time with any others.

[SpoolBus]

Look at the stats.....only one that gives you the biggest HP gains is the MOPAR CAI...nothing comes close in HP and Tourqe gains...dont waste your time with any others.

Hey sorry to burst your bubble but the dyno numbers for the iceman are dynoed at +13hp and 12+torque found at http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx/srt4_index.shtml and the mopar CAI is not even +10 hp dynoed found at http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...i+dyno+numbers BTW they said with the Mopar CAI you would need a catback to even get +10hp
I like Mopar just like everyone else..but there are better more effective parts that are even cheaper because they don't carry the Mother Mopar sticker..just my But I like em all just thought I'd help clarify

[Spike]

Hey sorry to burst your bubble but the dyno numbers for the iceman are dynoed at +13hp and 12+torque found at http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx/srt4_index.shtml and the mopar CAI is not even +10 hp dynoed found at http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...i+dyno+numbers BTW they said with the Mopar CAI you would need a catback to even get +10hp
I like Mopar just like everyone else..but there are better more effective parts that are even cheaper because they don't carry the Mother Mopar sticker..just my But I like em all just thought I'd help clarify

Dont forget about the Iceman voiding your warranty because it rest on the master cylinder and will eventually bust it....trust me I know, and the MC is not a cheap piece to buy.

[SpoolBus]

Dont forget about the Iceman voiding your warranty because it rest on the master cylinder and will eventually bust it....trust me I know, and the MC is not a cheap piece to buy.

I hear ya...but if you got any power put into the car the warranty has been gone long ago..I have had the Iceman for 1 1/2 years and though yes it was a bitch to put in (moving the battery and silinodes) it works great and is a far more effective piece. It's also $70 cheaper than Mopar's and makes More power with it's straighter design and not running next to the motor like the Mopar unit-also Mopars is metal causeing it to conduct heat and get hot quick. Not saying Mopar's is bad I love it..but research will reveal cheaper better parts.

[Jason04srt4]

Go with the Injen SRI. You don't need a CAI. The turbo will heat the air up anyways. Invest in a good BFMIC also. You also don't have to worry about sucking in water with the SRI.

[G2BGONE]

i went with tha k&n cai, cuz i got it for $100 from a buddy in need of sum money

[Spike]

You know i looked at that 20G....let me know how it turns out. Might go with it vs the 60 trim from AGP. AGP thinks highly of there shit, seen there stage 4 kit? 4200 bucks for that shit, but they gaurntee high 400hp range with it. Think I would go with the Garrett twin ball bearing turbo with that setup.

[SpoolBus]

You know i looked at that 20G....let me know how it turns out. Might go with it vs the 60 trim from AGP. AGP thinks highly of there shit, seen there stage 4 kit? 4200 bucks for that shit, but they gaurntee high 400hp range with it. Think I would go with the Garrett twin ball bearing turbo with that setup.

Ya..I looked into ALL Co's Fullybuilt,AGP,Kinectic, and found that Hahn has been making turbo kits for Neon's since day 1...The kit was $1642 for Super 20G fully polished and ceramic coated del. to my door. AGP polish and coat extra $400 on top of 1,800+ for 50 trim (before shipping). Plus Hahn uses stock coolant and oil feeds to keep turbo from burning up (some kits don't). There test car with the Super 20G did 11.8 1/4 on street tires and the 20G can produce support up to 500HP. You can get the kit in a week..instead of months with AGP. I looked at the DD GAR. 3071R kit..but the kit alone is $2,400 before any polishing or coating or shipping..Sooo you would be looking at over 3 large to get the kit how you want it. Hahn best fit, options, and Bang for your Buck--With Experience to back it up

[Turbo04]

I'd be very interested to know how you got the pcm to pull no timing on your car. The only way I can see that happening is to run a complete stand alone, such as AEM's unit, and it's not out yet....The dodge/mopar pcm will adjust timing based on alot of factors. My pcm doesn't control boost either, but it still adjusts timing.

[SpoolBus]

I'd be very interested to know how you got the pcm to pull no timing on your car. The only way I can see that happening is to run a complete stand alone, such as AEM's unit, and it's not out yet....The dodge/mopar pcm will adjust timing based on alot of factors. My pcm doesn't control boost either, but it still adjusts timing.

FUEL/ AFR & STOCK BOOST SENSORS
Get rid off all selinoids(turbo/throttle) I got a thread to help ya there..then use a SAFCII to run the fuel then electronic boost cont.(my ) then the computer(mine is stage 1) does not see boost levels nor fuel levels (AFR's) levels and mother MOPAR thinks all is running well...and NO TIMING PULLED..Only when the PCM sees an over boost (code) or lean AFR's when you jack your boost up will the car fight back with timing....I can run 20+ PSI on stocker(prob hit 24 w/race fuel) with drop to 18PSI at red...with out ANY problems....I even have a MAP CLAMP (brand new) never used cause I did the above and the car thinks all is running stock BTW Map Clamp for sale if you want...itll cure your timing pull probs. for $30(DASMOPAR)

[Turbo04]

FUEL/ AFR & STOCK BOOST SENSORS
Get rid off all selinoids(turbo/throttle) I got a thread to help ya there..then use a SAFCII to run the fuel then electronic boost cont.(my ) then the computer(mine is stage 1) does not see boost levels nor fuel levels (AFR's) levels and mother MOPAR thinks all is running well...and NO TIMING PULLED..Only when the PCM sees an over boost (code) or lean AFR's when you jack your boost up will the car fight back with timing....I can run 20+ PSI on stocker(prob hit 24 w/race fuel) with drop to 18PSI at red...with out ANY problems....I even have a MAP CLAMP (brand new) never used cause I did the above and the car thinks all is running stock BTW Map Clamp for sale if you want...itll cure your timing pull probs. for $30(DASMOPAR)

actually I was under the impression the car will still pull timing based on the knock sensor. Mopar stg 1 does not ignore the knock sensor, if anything it's far more sensitve to it. (stg 1 pcm here also) and the SAFC is a map clamp, albeit a very expensive one. Stg 1 pcm removes the fuel cut so the only way the pcm has left to defend against a blown engine is to pull timing. Also the pcm will still see boost via the map sensor, but it'll only see what you want it to see (afc comes into play here) Any #'s on the afr's or anything with 20+ psi? I'm assuming your on the stock fuel set up (or stg 1 based on your year) I have noticed from my personal experiance, that a stg 1 pcm will pull far more timing if it thinks anything at all is wrong then the stg 0 pcm. That being said stg 1's fuel maps are more agressive and gives you extra fuel to play with. Now if your running a return line, take my last statement and chuck it cause then you have as much fuel as you need. keep in mind also that our cars stock have been known to run 1700+ egt's so leaning that out even more just makes it even hotter, which leads to stuff cracking... I'm really interested to know what what the afr's and egt's your running with your set up.