what would be a good intake for an srt-4

[Spike]

You know i looked at that 20G....let me know how it turns out. Might go with it vs the 60 trim from AGP. AGP thinks highly of there shit, seen there stage 4 kit? 4200 bucks for that shit, but they gaurntee high 400hp range with it. Think I would go with the Garrett twin ball bearing turbo with that setup.

[SpoolBus]

You know i looked at that 20G....let me know how it turns out. Might go with it vs the 60 trim from AGP. AGP thinks highly of there shit, seen there stage 4 kit? 4200 bucks for that shit, but they gaurntee high 400hp range with it. Think I would go with the Garrett twin ball bearing turbo with that setup.

Ya..I looked into ALL Co's Fullybuilt,AGP,Kinectic, and found that Hahn has been making turbo kits for Neon's since day 1...The kit was $1642 for Super 20G fully polished and ceramic coated del. to my door. AGP polish and coat extra $400 on top of 1,800+ for 50 trim (before shipping). Plus Hahn uses stock coolant and oil feeds to keep turbo from burning up (some kits don't). There test car with the Super 20G did 11.8 1/4 on street tires and the 20G can produce support up to 500HP. You can get the kit in a week..instead of months with AGP. I looked at the DD GAR. 3071R kit..but the kit alone is $2,400 before any polishing or coating or shipping..Sooo you would be looking at over 3 large to get the kit how you want it. Hahn best fit, options, and Bang for your Buck--With Experience to back it up

[Turbo04]

I'd be very interested to know how you got the pcm to pull no timing on your car. The only way I can see that happening is to run a complete stand alone, such as AEM's unit, and it's not out yet....The dodge/mopar pcm will adjust timing based on alot of factors. My pcm doesn't control boost either, but it still adjusts timing.

[SpoolBus]

I'd be very interested to know how you got the pcm to pull no timing on your car. The only way I can see that happening is to run a complete stand alone, such as AEM's unit, and it's not out yet....The dodge/mopar pcm will adjust timing based on alot of factors. My pcm doesn't control boost either, but it still adjusts timing.

FUEL/ AFR & STOCK BOOST SENSORS
Get rid off all selinoids(turbo/throttle) I got a thread to help ya there..then use a SAFCII to run the fuel then electronic boost cont.(my ) then the computer(mine is stage 1) does not see boost levels nor fuel levels (AFR's) levels and mother MOPAR thinks all is running well...and NO TIMING PULLED..Only when the PCM sees an over boost (code) or lean AFR's when you jack your boost up will the car fight back with timing....I can run 20+ PSI on stocker(prob hit 24 w/race fuel) with drop to 18PSI at red...with out ANY problems....I even have a MAP CLAMP (brand new) never used cause I did the above and the car thinks all is running stock BTW Map Clamp for sale if you want...itll cure your timing pull probs. for $30(DASMOPAR)

[Turbo04]

FUEL/ AFR & STOCK BOOST SENSORS
Get rid off all selinoids(turbo/throttle) I got a thread to help ya there..then use a SAFCII to run the fuel then electronic boost cont.(my ) then the computer(mine is stage 1) does not see boost levels nor fuel levels (AFR's) levels and mother MOPAR thinks all is running well...and NO TIMING PULLED..Only when the PCM sees an over boost (code) or lean AFR's when you jack your boost up will the car fight back with timing....I can run 20+ PSI on stocker(prob hit 24 w/race fuel) with drop to 18PSI at red...with out ANY problems....I even have a MAP CLAMP (brand new) never used cause I did the above and the car thinks all is running stock BTW Map Clamp for sale if you want...itll cure your timing pull probs. for $30(DASMOPAR)

actually I was under the impression the car will still pull timing based on the knock sensor. Mopar stg 1 does not ignore the knock sensor, if anything it's far more sensitve to it. (stg 1 pcm here also) and the SAFC is a map clamp, albeit a very expensive one. Stg 1 pcm removes the fuel cut so the only way the pcm has left to defend against a blown engine is to pull timing. Also the pcm will still see boost via the map sensor, but it'll only see what you want it to see (afc comes into play here) Any #'s on the afr's or anything with 20+ psi? I'm assuming your on the stock fuel set up (or stg 1 based on your year) I have noticed from my personal experiance, that a stg 1 pcm will pull far more timing if it thinks anything at all is wrong then the stg 0 pcm. That being said stg 1's fuel maps are more agressive and gives you extra fuel to play with. Now if your running a return line, take my last statement and chuck it cause then you have as much fuel as you need. keep in mind also that our cars stock have been known to run 1700+ egt's so leaning that out even more just makes it even hotter, which leads to stuff cracking... I'm really interested to know what what the afr's and egt's your running with your set up.

[SpoolBus]

actually I was under the impression the car will still pull timing based on the knock sensor. Mopar stg 1 does not ignore the knock sensor, if anything it's far more sensitve to it. (stg 1 pcm here also) and the SAFC is a map clamp, albeit a very expensive one. Stg 1 pcm removes the fuel cut so the only way the pcm has left to defend against a blown engine is to pull timing. Also the pcm will still see boost via the map sensor, but it'll only see what you want it to see (afc comes into play here) Any #'s on the afr's or anything with 20+ psi? I'm assuming your on the stock fuel set up (or stg 1 based on your year) I have noticed from my personal experiance, that a stg 1 pcm will pull far more timing if it thinks anything at all is wrong then the stg 0 pcm. That being said stg 1's fuel maps are more agressive and gives you extra fuel to play with. Now if your running a return line, take my last statement and chuck it cause then you have as much fuel as you need. keep in mind also that our cars stock have been known to run 1700+ egt's so leaning that out even more just makes it even hotter, which leads to stuff cracking... I'm really interested to know what what the afr's and egt's your running with your set up.

Wow good very good..you have been studying I have RC750cc injectors/Perrin Big Bore fuel rail/Return system w/Aeromotive FPR and Walbro fuel pump/SAFCII-answer your fuel question? My car runs very rich..partly in due to the LARGE AMOUNT of fuel upgrades w/stock turbo..pulling back about 28% duty on injectors....But I did all these upgrades 1st..in part to see what the stock turbo could push with all supporting mods(minus NO2 or Alky inject) then I ordered the Turbo upgrade last...But trust me..you can push over 330WTQ with this setup w/no prob...regardless of what you have heard or being said..I been doing it for about a year daily driven

[Turbo04]

Wow good very good..you have been studying I have RC750cc injectors/Perrin Big Bore fuel rail/Return system w/Aeromotive FPR and Walbro fuel pump/SAFCII-answer your fuel question? My car runs very rich..partly in due to the LARGE AMOUNT of fuel upgrades w/stock turbo..pulling back about 28% duty on injectors....But I did all these upgrades 1st..in part to see what the stock turbo could push with all supporting mods(minus NO2 or Alky inject) then I ordered the Turbo upgrade last...But trust me..you can push over 330WTQ with this setup w/no prob...regardless of what you have heard or being said..I been doing it for about a year daily driven

I believe the 750's are overkill even running the 24lbs. I have no doubt you can push that with the stocker, however your way out of it's efficency range at those boost lvls. Bigger turbo and 750's = fun. I'm pushing 20 spike/15 by redline on stg 1 pcm right now. Last dyno I was at 16lbs solid on stg 2 wga and stg 1 pcm barely creeping over 10:1, so I know there is plenty of fuel there....