fuel regulator ? and heat ?

[STRteg]

yesterday i did a full tune up on my car to pass my emissions (previously failed) plugs,wires,cap,button,air filter,fuel filter,pcv valve,and oil car started shutting off on me when i would stop at red lights or after i had been driving the engine would just drop to 0 rpms and either slowly go back up or just die. I figured it had to be a vaccum line issue so i was checking it and i unplugged the vaccum hose from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail to the manifold and car started running great! no issues the idle was strong but when i plugged it back it cut off.So i took the hose off completely drove to emissions guy said to cap the manifold off so i did (reconnected hose to manifold and put a screw in it instead of connecting to fuel regulator) and ran the emissions and car passed great! sorry for the life story about this but my question is with it like that is is hurting anything? affecting my gas mileage,because the cars running better than ever.

Oh and on a non related note my temp gauge stays on C unless im idling for a while and when i drive goes back to C and i have very very very little to no heat,starts off with lite heat and then gradually goes to none...any ideas?

if you read all this thanks lol

[Barefoot]

yesterday i did a full tune up on my car to pass my emissions (previously failed) plugs,wires,cap,button,air filter,fuel filter,pcv valve,and oil car started shutting off on me when i would stop at red lights or after i had been driving the engine would just drop to 0 rpms and either slowly go back up or just die. I figured it had to be a vaccum line issue so i was checking it and i unplugged the vaccum hose from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail to the manifold and car started running great! no issues the idle was strong but when i plugged it back it cut off.So i took the hose off completely drove to emissions guy said to cap the manifold off so i did (reconnected hose to manifold and put a screw in it instead of connecting to fuel regulator) and ran the emissions and car passed great! sorry for the life story about this but my question is with it like that is is hurting anything? affecting my gas mileage,because the cars running better than ever.

Oh and on a non related note my temp gauge stays on C unless im idling for a while and when i drive goes back to C and i have very very very little to no heat,starts off with lite heat and then gradually goes to none...any ideas?

if you read all this thanks lol

with the fpr unplugged its dumping fuel as if u was running at wot.

thermostat

[STRteg]

with the fpr unplugged its dumping fuel as if u was running at wot.



thermostat

thanks for the quick reply man what do you think is causing it to shut the car off when its connected? and what do you mean as if i was running at wot? and yeah i was thinking thermostat too

[STRteg]

anyone?

[Barefoot]

thanks for the quick reply man what do you think is causing it to shut the car off when its connected? and what do you mean as if i was running at wot? and yeah i was thinking thermostat too

off the top of my head im not sure at the moment. the fuel pressure is running at max psi all the time.

[scttydb411]

your car is running lean and is why you failed. w/ the fpr connected @ idle the vacuum pulls the fuel pressure down. @ atmospheric (line disconnected and wot) the fuel pressure is high. if it's a stock regulator then it's probably between 45-48psi @ atmospheric. if disconnecting caused the car to run better @ idle the fuel pressure is as if it's @ wot, but running the injectors per the fuel mapping. however, when you go up in load normally w/ the fpr regulator connected then your fuel pressure increases as well as increases in the map as well. if it's running great @ idle and low load w/ the vacuum line disconnected then it's more than likely running lean @ wot since the fuel pressure is staying at the same pressure and not rising like it should @ higher loads. your fuel pressure will be between 7-10 psi different between idle and wot.

if you have an adj fuel pressure regulator on it, get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure and get it set correctly...this is assuming you have a stock/non-chipped ecu. if your ecu is chipped then it sounds like it needs to be tuned.

[Tech5]

doesnt need to be tuned...

You have a stock car

plug it all back in and adjust the throttle screw on the tb not the one on the cable part, but the flat head right in the center above the air tube.... and you srew it out lefty loosie and your golden... also a good throttle clean would be nice while your there...

[STRteg]

off the top of my head im not sure at the moment. the fuel pressure is running at max psi all the time.

Oh ok because I was wondering if the fpr could be bad,and thanks for explaining it to me

your car is running lean and is why you failed. w/ the fpr connected @ idle the vacuum pulls the fuel pressure down. @ atmospheric (line disconnected and wot) the fuel pressure is high. if it's a stock regulator then it's probably between 45-48psi @ atmospheric. if disconnecting caused the car to run better @ idle the fuel pressure is as if it's @ wot, but running the injectors per the fuel mapping. however, when you go up in load normally w/ the fpr regulator connected then your fuel pressure increases as well as increases in the map as well. if it's running great @ idle and low load w/ the vacuum line disconnected then it's more than likely running lean @ wot since the fuel pressure is staying at the same pressure and not rising like it should @ higher loads. your fuel pressure will be between 7-10 psi different between idle and wot.

if you have an adj fuel pressure regulator on it, get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure and get it set correctly...this is assuming you have a stock/non-chipped ecu. if your ecu is chipped then it sounds like it needs to be tuned.

It didnt fail it passed emissions great,it had failed previously because of a bad cat and in need of a tune up and its all stock just as tech 5 said,thank you for your input and knowledge

doesnt need to be tuned...

You have a stock car

plug it all back in and adjust the throttle screw on the tb not the one on the cable part, but the flat head right in the center above the air tube.... and you srew it out lefty loosie and your golden... also a good throttle clean would be nice while your there...

Thanks man I'm going to try it as soon as I get a chance i'll give it a good cleaning and adjust the screw,how much do you think I should adjust it? Till the idle is strong and healthy I guess?

[Tech5]

Yes correct....

Also on your heat , Thermostat for sure

FPR going bad in a Honda/Acura is rare

[STRteg]

Yes correct....



Also on your heat , Thermostat for sure



FPR going bad in a Honda/Acura is rare

ok thanks alot ill let you know after i hook everything back up and adjust the screw how it goes

[STRteg]

Ok so heres the update i messed with it on my lunch break reconnected the hose from the fpr to the manifold and upon examining the screw on the tb oit was closed completely (screwd all the way to the right) i loosened it up by screwwing it to the left it made the idle stronger but i havent driven it yet ill let yall know when i drive how it goes

[MissS13]

Oh and on a non related note my temp gauge stays on C unless im idling for a while and when i drive goes back to C and i have very very very little to no heat,starts off with lite heat and then gradually goes to none...any ideas?

thermostat, i had the same prob b4

[STRteg]

Ok after adjusting the screw and unscrewing it alot!! its doing the same damn thing only its not cutting off but its still dropping to extremely low rpms and shaking violently like its going to shut off but only after ive been driving and the come to a stop like a redlight or stop sign or if i take it our of gear any other ideas? iacv?

[STRteg]

ok so i checked it out again and when i unscrewed the screw above the tb earlier it screwd itself back in! how do i keep it where i want it?

[scttydb411]

It didnt fail it passed emissions great,it had failed previously because of a bad cat and in need of a tune up and its all stock just as tech 5 said,thank you for your input and knowledge

it failed previously and didn't pass until you disconnected the fpr vacuum line. i bet even after changing the cat and tuneup if the fpr was connected it wouldn't have passed b/c running too lean and throwing off the #'s.

you can pull the throttle screw all the way out and put the weakest locktite or something that isn't permanent on the threads. there is a waxy substance on the throttle screw from the factory to keep it from loosening up from engine vibrations.

[STRteg]

it failed previously and didn't pass until you disconnected the fpr vacuum line. i bet even after changing the cat and tuneup if the fpr was connected it wouldn't have passed b/c running too lean and throwing off the #'s.



you can pull the throttle screw all the way out and put the weakest locktite or something that isn't permanent on the threads. there is a waxy substance on the throttle screw from the factory to keep it from loosening up from engine vibrations.

oh ok thanks