swap question

[STRteg]

ok i just did my swap, pulled the old motor,swapped parts and installed the new motor,everythings fine engine starts and idles strong and good but for some reason now my temperature gauge jumps straight to hot and when i put the new motor in i forgot to put in the rear mount T bracket any way to put that in easier than lifting the motor back up? any help much appreciated thanks

[seanrg1116]

Is it overheating or is the gauge just not reading correctly?

[greasemunkey]

for that mount be prepared to spend a good bit of time on it. loosen the driver side and trans mount and use the jack to change engine position till the bolt(s) will thread in. I have done it before and its not fun. g/l and what do you mean jumps to hot? the dash shows that it is overheating almost when you start it? if it is check your grounds -engine, trans.

[Barefoot]

that rear mount is a bitch not fun at all. best way ive found is to just play with the motor in different spot till it goes in. as for the temp make sure your ground wires are good. and your sensor is functioning properly.

[STRteg]

Ok update i got the rear mount braket in place by removing two hoses now engine started and temperature gauge shoots straight up to hot as soon as car i started checked my grounds see nothin wrong lmk what you think

[Vteckidd]

unplug the sensor see what happens then

[STRteg]

unplug the sensor see what happens then

i unplugged the sensor it still jumped to hot same reaction,with the temperature gauge being like that will that effect my radiator fans kicking on and whats the difference between a 0.9 radiator cap and a 1.1

[Z0_o6]

you have a wiring issue somewhere between the sensor and the temp gauge, or it could be the gauge itself. it shouldn't affect the fans as they are on a separate switch. the difference in the caps is the release pressure. it is measured in bars, so a .9 bar cap will not hold as much pressure as the 1.1 bar cap and will overflow at a cooler temperature. I would use the 1.1.

[redciv1]

Straight Deja Vu. My situation was that I bought a 93 Accord that I did not get a chance to see running before my swap. I swapped in a H22 automatic. The first time I started the motor I saw a couple of small, pin size holes in the back of the engine. I checked the inside and the gauge was past the H. I shut the car down, replaced the hoses and th car did the same thing. I replaced in total: Upper and lower radiator hoses, heater core hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, waterpump and radiator. Only to realize that the temperature gauge was shot. I only realize that after I had changed the water pump and started the car. The temp gauge shot up to past H within 1 minute just idling and about 30 minutes if I gave it some gas. I sat and watched the needle go past the H after the water pump install and the car was fine. No smoke from engine, radiator cap was normal, hoses felt normal and car ran normally. I have driven a car that was overheating and this car did not feel that way. I drove the car car 80 miles per day to and from work. Oh and I also wired the fans to run with the switch so that wasn't the issue either. Swap gauge clusters and let us know.

[STRteg]

Straight Deja Vu. My situation was that I bought a 93 Accord that I did not get a chance to see running before my swap. I swapped in a H22 automatic. The first time I started the motor I saw a couple of small, pin size holes in the back of the engine. I checked the inside and the gauge was past the H. I shut the car down, replaced the hoses and th car did the same thing. I replaced in total: Upper and lower radiator hoses, heater core hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, waterpump and radiator. Only to realize that the temperature gauge was shot. I only realize that after I had changed the water pump and started the car. The temp gauge shot up to past H within 1 minute just idling and about 30 minutes if I gave it some gas. I sat and watched the needle go past the H after the water pump install and the car was fine. No smoke from engine, radiator cap was normal, hoses felt normal and car ran normally. I have driven a car that was overheating and this car did not feel that way. I drove the car car 80 miles per day to and from work. Oh and I also wired the fans to run with the switch so that wasn't the issue either. Swap gauge clusters and let us know.

well my gauge and sensor were working great about a week ago with my old setup but now it doesnt seem to want to work i doubt its my cluster but i can check,also whats the quickest way to read an obd1 check engine code thanks

[Barefoot]

you have a wiring issue somewhere between the sensor and the temp gauge, or it could be the gauge itself. it shouldn't affect the fans as they are on a separate switch. the difference in the caps is the release pressure. it is measured in bars, so a .9 bar cap will not hold as much pressure as the 1.1 bar cap and will overflow at a cooler temperature. I would use the 1.1.

well my gauge and sensor were working great about a week ago with my old setup but now it doesnt seem to want to work i doubt its my cluster but i can check,also whats the quickest way to read an obd1 check engine code thanks

u got something crossing over with the gauge giving it power. to check the codes ***The Big FAQ Thread- Honda/Acura, ECU codes, Swap Info, Wiring. READ FIRST***

[Truegiant]

you def have to plugs/wires crossed.

[STRteg]

ok my cel is 41 (4 long flashes 1 short) Primary oxygen sensor heater ayone have any input on that? and thanks everyone for helping me out

[TommyD1919]

I may have missed something but what car/swap?

[STRteg]

I may have missed something but what car/swap?

integra B series swap

[MidLifeCrisis]

which sensor do you keep checking? are you checking the right one? it should be a SINGLE wire sensor underneath the distributor.. and the easiest way to check the code is by jumping the plug underneath the dash on the passenger side.. it should be bright blue..

[STRteg]

which sensor do you keep checking? are you checking the right one? it should be a SINGLE wire sensor underneath the distributor.. and the easiest way to check the code is by jumping the plug underneath the dash on the passenger side.. it should be bright blue..

I have been checking the sensor and messing with it and i jumped the ecu and got 4 long flashes 1 short and got 41 Primary oxygen sensor heater is that the O2 sensor?

[greasemunkey]

yes sir it is faulty sensor may cause that issue. try taking it out and cleaning it or replace it and if it doesnt fix the prob just return it

[STRteg]

yes sir it is faulty sensor may cause that issue. try taking it out and cleaning it or replace it and if it doesnt fix the prob just return it

ok great thanks for you help