swap question

[Z0_o6]

you have a wiring issue somewhere between the sensor and the temp gauge, or it could be the gauge itself. it shouldn't affect the fans as they are on a separate switch. the difference in the caps is the release pressure. it is measured in bars, so a .9 bar cap will not hold as much pressure as the 1.1 bar cap and will overflow at a cooler temperature. I would use the 1.1.

[redciv1]

Straight Deja Vu. My situation was that I bought a 93 Accord that I did not get a chance to see running before my swap. I swapped in a H22 automatic. The first time I started the motor I saw a couple of small, pin size holes in the back of the engine. I checked the inside and the gauge was past the H. I shut the car down, replaced the hoses and th car did the same thing. I replaced in total: Upper and lower radiator hoses, heater core hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, waterpump and radiator. Only to realize that the temperature gauge was shot. I only realize that after I had changed the water pump and started the car. The temp gauge shot up to past H within 1 minute just idling and about 30 minutes if I gave it some gas. I sat and watched the needle go past the H after the water pump install and the car was fine. No smoke from engine, radiator cap was normal, hoses felt normal and car ran normally. I have driven a car that was overheating and this car did not feel that way. I drove the car car 80 miles per day to and from work. Oh and I also wired the fans to run with the switch so that wasn't the issue either. Swap gauge clusters and let us know.

[STRteg]

Straight Deja Vu. My situation was that I bought a 93 Accord that I did not get a chance to see running before my swap. I swapped in a H22 automatic. The first time I started the motor I saw a couple of small, pin size holes in the back of the engine. I checked the inside and the gauge was past the H. I shut the car down, replaced the hoses and th car did the same thing. I replaced in total: Upper and lower radiator hoses, heater core hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, waterpump and radiator. Only to realize that the temperature gauge was shot. I only realize that after I had changed the water pump and started the car. The temp gauge shot up to past H within 1 minute just idling and about 30 minutes if I gave it some gas. I sat and watched the needle go past the H after the water pump install and the car was fine. No smoke from engine, radiator cap was normal, hoses felt normal and car ran normally. I have driven a car that was overheating and this car did not feel that way. I drove the car car 80 miles per day to and from work. Oh and I also wired the fans to run with the switch so that wasn't the issue either. Swap gauge clusters and let us know.

well my gauge and sensor were working great about a week ago with my old setup but now it doesnt seem to want to work i doubt its my cluster but i can check,also whats the quickest way to read an obd1 check engine code thanks

[Barefoot]

you have a wiring issue somewhere between the sensor and the temp gauge, or it could be the gauge itself. it shouldn't affect the fans as they are on a separate switch. the difference in the caps is the release pressure. it is measured in bars, so a .9 bar cap will not hold as much pressure as the 1.1 bar cap and will overflow at a cooler temperature. I would use the 1.1.

well my gauge and sensor were working great about a week ago with my old setup but now it doesnt seem to want to work i doubt its my cluster but i can check,also whats the quickest way to read an obd1 check engine code thanks

u got something crossing over with the gauge giving it power. to check the codes ***The Big FAQ Thread- Honda/Acura, ECU codes, Swap Info, Wiring. READ FIRST***