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Mitsu's are not "prone" to crankwalk. Early 7 bolt cars (92.5-97) seemed to get it more with stiff clutches and weaker thrust bearings. The latter 2g's seemed to have the problem remedied. (Post 97)
www.roadraceengineeing.com has an explaination of crankwalk it you don't really know what it means.
1g's (90-92.5) and Galant VR-4s (91-92) have the factory turbo 6 bolt motors.
Here is what it is referencing:
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The 6 bolt holes on the flywheel that correspond with the holes on the crank.
Most 16g's you see on cars are from either JDM Galant VR-4's (small 16g's or big 16'g) Or the Evo III 16g which is slightly more effiecient.
Stock USDM 1g's come with 14b (13g for automatics which are even smaller) and then even worse than a 14b is the t25 that comes on the 2g's. A 16g upgrade kit with the feed lines would be a nice start for a 2g.
Another thing, Galant VR-4s are not DSM's. They were built in Japan and shipped over. DSM's 1g and 2g were made in Illinois. Don't make that mistake of calling them DSM's.
Furthermore, these cars are usually done right and are fast as shit or they are owned by poor knuckle-dragging retards that fuck them up. I have been messing with these for years and have seen plenty of misinformation and dumb stereotypes about them. You have said some dumb shit in your time and in general your tech posts are pretty lackluster. Honestly if you got a DSM and did the same shit to it like you did your Mustang and talked like you used to, you'd get your ass handed to you. There are too many DSM people that have been in the game long enough to hear dumb posts from people that think they are just going to just "fit right in".
Making over 400 awhp and running 11's in a 19 year old car will break some stuff over time. So you can't get frustrated with them and I definitely wouldn't dd it unless you had to. I've always had a DD with my gvr4 and couldn't have it any other way.
Well, that's my two cents. Some of it might have not been what you wanted to hear but it was all truth.
Originally Posted by 1439/2000
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