ok why the hell is my car blowing out air insted of sucking it in from the intake ???? bent valve stem?
intake manifold blowing air out?????
ok why the hell is my car blowing out air insted of sucking it in from the intake ???? bent valve stem?
lol sure your not fealing your radiator fan?
Uhhh... Is your car FI?
Test your valve stem theory with a compression test, but I doubt that's it unless you've overrevved it.
it wont start so the fan cant kick on and we put a sheet of paper near it and it pushed it outward not sucking it in....oh and it shoots fireballs out of it so im sure the manifold....oh yea it trys to start but it just boggs and white smoke comes out of the cat...im running open headers...its a d15b yes its fi but the compression is good
head gasket man! and you could also have bad retainers! just from what you explained is what i think!
check your timing belt, and make sure that the timing marks are all lined up correctly at TDC.
Who knows?
x2, you need to check your valve timing. Does the car run at all?Originally Posted by Identity_Crisis
i lined the cam to up and had the 1st cylinder at tdc thats when it started doin this no it dosent run at all and it used to just turn over and not even try to crank now its trying to crank but its shooting firebals out of the manifold sometimes like its a damn carb..someone told that if one set of springs is much lower its a bent valve and heres pics of the ones thats lower 3rd cylinder on the ehaust side
Last edited by D15B; 07-12-2009 at 12:41 PM.
sounds like incorrect spark and/or valve timing sir!
it is possible that its a bent valve, more likely not, but start with the basics.
When youve got #1 cyl at TDC (#1 is closest to t-belt), the cam hear has two flat marks that line up with the top of the head (where the vc would go) and also has a mark that lines up with a notch on the timing cover. Seems like i remember the cam gear also having an arrow that indicates "UP". The crank has a mark on the t-belt pulley that should line up with a mark on the oil pump, or the crank pulley should be on 0degs. Also, make sure your dist. rotor lines up with the #1 spark plug wire on the cap.
well i lined the cam up with the head and it said up and i had it top dead center on cyl 1 so i dont see how my timing could be off...noob question how i make the dizzy rotor set to spark 1 open it?
What said it was TDC? If you're not absolutely sure, put a long screw driver in the #1 spark plug hole and make sure its at the topmost position. Yes to check the rotor position you'd have to pull the dist cap off.
omg i want to smack myself at some of the advice in here...
The EMPIRE
I feel that way about most of the advice in General Tech period.
i know it was tdc because i put a screw driver through the spark plug hole and turned the crank till cyl 1 was tdc...look at the pics of the exuast side springs on cyl 3 the springs are much more compressed i ono if that has anything to do with anything but i ono...
That is because the cam is trying to open them at that point. The only way to use this test is with the cam and rockers out. Your engine is on the exhaust stroke on #3 cyl in the picture it looks like.
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you learn to ignore it after a while, it's too frustrating to correct it most of the time. this is why shops make money dude. just keep that in mind.
Who knows?
lol as long as I am not the only one..
The EMPIRE
So all of your t-belt marks line up? Have you checked your firing order?
EDIT: if you have a valve spring that looks more compressed than the others, you've got a bent valve or broken spring (assuming the cam isn't pressing on them at the time). Its an interference engine so you probably need to pull the head at this point. You could do a compression test just to verify this though.
Last edited by green91; 07-12-2009 at 01:07 PM.
Did you just do something to it right before it started with this problem? Like changing the t belt, distributor, wires, etc? Go back to the last thing you did before it started and look at it. Good luck!
JJSPEC RACING - Central Ga's source for performance parts,fabrication, tuning, general repair and a whole lot more! 478 621 5000
its never started before i just put this swap in myself everythings wired and hooked up correctly...but it is strange to me that air is coming out of the intake manifold ive never seen that before.....how many psi should the compression test read? im about to go test it now and then post my psi...80 psi i know thats definatly not enough...i have 80 in all cyl except for cyl 2 has 145psinew head time i guess
Last edited by D15B; 07-12-2009 at 01:11 PM.
You can use this test with the cam and rockers in just fine, as long as your crank lines up also.
Some of the valves will be opening(compressed) by the rocker arms so it would be hard to see all of them and compare at one time.
This is what I was refering to, the cam is pushing the rocker arms which are opening the valves, which makes the springs compressed.look at the pics of the exuast side springs on cyl 3 the springs are much more compressed i ono if that has anything to do with anything but i ono...
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yea how many psi should the compression test read? 80 psi i know thats definatly not enough...i have 80 in all cyl except for cyl 2 has 145psi
I just looked again and saw the intakes are open on #1 so your engine is not at TDC on the compression stroke in those pics.
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If the cam timing is off it will be low and sometimes fuel will wash a cylinder wall of oil and lower compression also. But you said you double checked your cam timing so it should be good. If you can do a leakdown test it will tell you where you are losing compression.
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how i do a leak down test?
backfire from the intake check that timing. im sure it has been said already with the great minds in here.
get a leak down tester and a air comp. put the cylinder u want to test at tdc. install test in spark plug whole. fill with air read the gauges. listen for air flow from the intake, exhaust, oil filler cap, and in the rad. look for bubbles.
pics of my timing... off?
What he said. The timing looks ok. Verify that your spark plug wires are installed correctly and do a leak down test. What do the plugs look like?
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the spark plugs are pretty shity but i still dont see why that would make fireballs come out of my intake manifold...i got the firing order right 1342 starting at the bottom left when facing the dizzy like this
o3 o4
o1 o2
i dont have the money for a leak down tester though im broke as hell
timing looks goodyour order is correct. only thing i can think of is u have bent valves or burnt. whats your location. i have a leak tester.
hould i just take the head off and cheak head gasket valves pistons etc..i stay in gwinnett jimmy carter area
ooo n/m lil out of my area.
lol yea i know uhmm so wats my best bet take off head.......can some one explain to me why air flow would be coming out of the intake manifold in technical terms or laymens
pretty much the valves are staying open while the compression and ignition is going on.
so best bet is a new head? i ono if you saw the psi's i pulled during the compression test but all but my 2nd cyl had readings of 80 psi and the 2nd cyl had 145psi so all but my 2nd cyl valves may be bent?
The only way for fire to come out of the intake is this ^ or the ignition timing is effed as far as I know.
Sounding like internal engine problems. Most likely an intake valve issue.
JJSPEC RACING - Central Ga's source for performance parts,fabrication, tuning, general repair and a whole lot more! 478 621 5000
It will be slightly open and you may see some marks on the pistons.
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