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Thread: Ebay turbo kit? Good / Bad!

  1. #1
    Sorry boucha luck! Athens_Red_Rexin's Avatar
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    Default Ebay turbo kit? Good / Bad!

    Thinking about ordering a ebay turbo kit for the ZC. And here are my questions...

    1. Has anyone had one of these kits and are they worth a crap.

    2. Will the turbo last?

    3. I want to run a low boost setup, will have have to have the car tuned to make it run right?

    4. Has anyone seen a fittin that you can screw into the oil drain hole in the oil pan to hook the oil feed line onto, and you wouldn't have to drill holes into the pan?

    Here is one of the kits I am thinking of getting...
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D-Ser...Q5fAccessories

    Thanks for any help!!!

  2. #2
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    i wouldnt go ebay with a turbo kit.. thats just me..

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    LS Resurrection
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    1. yup have heard of it
    2. they'll last if ur boosting 6-7 psi
    3. well since ur low boosting u'll be fine
    4. nope u have to drill a hole in ur oil pan

  4. #4
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Elbow's Avatar
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    People complain a lot about them breaking when they up the boost. If I were you I would throw the turbo itself out and go get a nice turbo, the rest is fine for low boost levels. Some people complain about the manifold cracking, but like I said usually when they up the boost. I have heard horror stories about the turbos in some of the kits though like breaking and sending the blades in pieces.

    I plan on turbo'ing the Miata soon and plan on getting an eBay manifold and a regular Garrett T25 with eBay charge pipes and intercooler.

    And btw yeah you need to tap the pan, I think I still have a few D series pans if you want one.
    Last edited by Elbow; 01-08-2009 at 11:29 AM.

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    Repent or Perish jdm_crx_man's Avatar
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    1)i have an ebay kit running 10 psi on my b16 crx and have no problems except traction !
    2) if you take care of your turbo and dont beat on it constantly it will last and the mani that comes with your kit wont crack but i wouldnt get that exact mani because of where the wastegate is located what you want to get is a waste gate that is connected to all the exhaust runners and not just one!
    example
    bad:

    good

    3)if you get a missing like mapsensor bypass and a fmu you will be good for up to 8 psi so you wont have to get a tune but i still highly recomend it!
    4)you have to drill a hole,tap and weld a fitting in!

    go here for more info
    http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
    Last edited by jdm_crx_man; 01-08-2009 at 04:04 PM.
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  6. #6
    ^^Idiot with a car key ;) jmmx258's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdm_crx_man
    1)i have an ebay kit running 10 psi on my b16 crx and have no problems except traction !
    2) if you take care of your turbo and dont beat on it constantly it will last and the mani that comes with your kit wont crack but i wouldnt get that exact mani because of where the wastegate is located what you want to get is a waste gate that is connected to all the exhaust runners and not just one!
    example
    bad:

    good

    3)if you get a missing like mapsensor bypass and a fmu you will be good for up to 8 psi so you wont have to get a tune but i still highly recomend it!
    4)you have to drill a hole,tap and weld a fitting in!

    go here for more info
    http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
    DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GUY.

    FMU will get you RUNNING. Not safely driven by any means. Don 't waste you money on a missing link either.

    Get a good map sensor, and get a tune. Tune is EVERYTHING in a turbo motor. You'd be lucky to last a month with out a tune.

    I'm running 12psi with an ebay kit, tuned on my b20 and it works phenomenal

    The only thing he was right about is the manifold. Get one where the waste gate will let exhaust out of all 4 cylinders, not one where the gate is on one of the tubes.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmmx258
    DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GUY.

    FMU will get you RUNNING. Not safely driven by any means. Don 't waste you money on a missing link either.

    Get a good map sensor, and get a tune. Tune is EVERYTHING in a turbo motor. You'd be lucky to last a month with out a tune.

    I'm running 12psi with an ebay kit, tuned on my b20 and it works phenomenal

    The only thing he was right about is the manifold. Get one where the waste gate will let exhaust out of all 4 cylinders, not one where the gate is on one of the tubes.
    IF YOU READ WHAT I POSTED YOU WILL SEE THAT I STILL HIGHLY RECOMEND GETTING IT TUNED BUT IF HE DOESNT WANT TO SPEND THAT KIND OF MONEY THEN THE MISING LINK AND FMU IS THE WAY TO GO!S SO
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  8. #8
    Sorry boucha luck! Athens_Red_Rexin's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the good info guys! So will I be safe without a tune if I never go over like 7 or 8 psi? And what about this manifold?


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    you always want a tune... for every power mode.

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    Sorry boucha luck! Athens_Red_Rexin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yogi08
    you always want a tune... for every power mode.
    Where would be a good place close to Athens to go and get a tune?

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    crappy manifolds and the turbo will fuck up easy if u dont service it to the T.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Athens_Red_Rexin
    Thanks for all the good info guys! So will I be safe without a tune if I never go over like 7 or 8 psi? And what about this manifold?

    thats better because of where the wastegate is located but i have heard of these cracking but never seen it in person. if you take good care of it then you should be fine my brother had one and it never cracked but he let his do a proper 3 min cool down after driving...i have other friends with this manifold and they dont have problems with them either
    and it turns a cool gold color just make sure you wipe off you finger prints before you crank the car up with this manifold!
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  13. #13
    Sorry boucha luck! Athens_Red_Rexin's Avatar
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    ^Thanks man. So where is a good place close to Athens to get a tune?

  14. #14

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    The tubular manifolds will crack, and most of the turbos will blow their seals. If you DO decide to purchase it go ahead and get the manifold braced/rewelded and run an oil restricter on the turbo and it might last. I'd piece a kit together using cheaper but better quality parts. Such as a cast manifold and a Name turbo. Ebay the intercooler, piping, bovs, etc

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    Quote Originally Posted by Athens_Red_Rexin
    ^Thanks man. So where is a good place close to Athens to get a tune?
    i have no idea i would go to mainstream its expensive but well worth it ive heard of them making lots of power with d-series
    GO HERE THIS IS VERY IMPRESSIVE!!
    what the f with these stock d-series (non-vtec bishes)
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    if i was going d-series turbo i would get this!!
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPA-T...Q5fAccessories
    ther is a d-series version i just couldnt find it
    this is what it looks like on a car but its b-series

    and your gonna need a halfsize radiator
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  17. #17
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    ^That is a badass manifold!!!

  18. #18
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    Man I guess I could always just get the ebay kit, and when the turbo goes out, get a turbonetics t3.


    What about this turbo, worth my time?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4...1%7C240%3A1318

  19. #19
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Elbow's Avatar
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    Thing is if your turbo goes out in a boom so might something else lol.

    As for tuning in Athens, I don't think there is a place anymore .

    Does a D15B2 exhaust manifold fit...? The log style one....www.homemadeturbo.com

  20. #20
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Elbow's Avatar
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    Here read this: http://www.homemadeturbo.com/turbo_projects/t25/

    We did something similar on a friends Civic using the factory manifold and a T25, used all cheap stuff, I mean we did it for kicks, you can piece it together nicely.

  21. #21
    Sorry boucha luck! Athens_Red_Rexin's Avatar
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    Thanks Simon, but after some pricing looks like the smartest thing to do is, get an ebay intercooler kit, and at turbonetics t3 turbo. Then I think I will probably get a ram horn manifold. How does this sounds gents?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Athens_Red_Rexin
    Man I guess I could always just get the ebay kit, and when the turbo goes out, get a turbonetics t3.


    What about this turbo, worth my time?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4...1%7C240%3A1318
    i have that exact turbo and it works amazingly and actually spools fast
    im boosting 10psi and a ramhorn manifold ebay turbo and DIY intercooler kit 28x7x3 and is so much fun at full spool im at about 3200-3500
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    Quote Originally Posted by Athens_Red_Rexin
    Thanks Simon, but after some pricing looks like the smartest thing to do is, get an ebay intercooler kit, and at turbonetics t3 turbo. Then I think I will probably get a ram horn manifold. How does this sounds gents?
    ramhorn ftmfw
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  24. #24
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    ^Did you have yours tuned?

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    Repent or Perish jdm_crx_man's Avatar
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    no not yet but i have a missing link i got the missing link for free so im using that untill i get the money to buy an ems i want hondata so i can boost by gear but it expensive so ill probably just get chrome it works just as well
    i also want to get msd 6al-2 ignition 2stepp and rev cut
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  26. #26
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    ^So with a missing link I can get by without a tune. Because I will probably never go over 8 psi.

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    yeah you can but be carefull check out this writeup .http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
    ..read it its got all the info you need to do your set up
    Boost Dependent Fuel Pressure Regulator with Stock Injectors

    Components Required


    • Stock Injectors
    • Boost Dependent Fuel Pressure Regulator (FMU)
    • Check Valves
    With this option the stock Honda injectors, which are 245cc, are used with a boost dependent fuel pressure regulator. A boost dependent fuel pressure regulator increases the fuel pressure a set amount for every PSI of increased boost pressure. Most boost dependent fuel pressure regulators are modeled on Vortech's Fuel Management Unit (FMU) and look like the below picture. In most applications a 12:1 ratio FMU will suffice. This means that at any given boost PSI the fuel pressure will be 12 times that amount plus the stock fuel pressure which is about 40 PSI. For example, at 6 PSI the fuel pressure added by the FMU will be 72 PSI, added to the stock 40 PSI, will be 112 PSI of total fuel pressure. As you can see this is a lot of fuel pressure for the stock fuel system to take. Because the system is stressed so much more than it was designed for it is more likely that there will be a failure, especially an injector failure. If an injector failure occurs, sever engine failure will occur. Check valves will be required to keep the MAP sensor for sensing boost, a Missing Link check valve is recommended but plastic aquarium check valves could be used. The maximum safe limit for this setup is 6 PSI, going over this amount of boost will increase the chances of an injector failure.


    Boost Dependent Fuel Pressure Regulator with Larger Injectors

    Components Required


    • Larger Injectors
    • Boost Dependent Fuel Pressure Regulator
    • High Pressure Fuel Pump
    • Apex-I SAFC or VAFC
    • Check Valves
    This is similar to the above option but instead it uses larger injectors and an Apex-I AFC to control them. With this option you can use a 12:1 or 10:1 ratio on the Vortech FMU depending on injector size. When replacing injectors it is important to match the correct type of injector with the correct OBD version of ECU. If you have a 90-91 Integra you have an OBD0 PR4 computer that uses peak and hold, low resistance, injectors. If you have a 92-93 Integra, or any VTEC engine, you have an OBD 1 PR4 computer that uses saturated, high resistance, injectors. When buying new injectors (available from RC Engineering) get the correct type for your application. If you must use peak and hold injectors on a OBD1 or later car, then follow the directions in the next section for adding resistors to the wiring harness. A high pressure fuel pump such as the Walbro 255lph pump or MSD High Pressure Fuel Pump PN 2225 is necessary to provide fuel at the high pressure that will be required. The Walbro pump can be installed in-tank or inline while the MSD pump can only be installed inline. If running the pump inline, disable the stock fuel pump. Although it is not necessary to remove the stock fuel pump, know that pumping fuel through the disabled stock fuel pump will slightly limit flow rates, but not pressure. Steel braided lines are a good idea given the amount of fuel pressure that will be required. The stock hard fuel lines and the stock fuel rail are good to over 400 horsepower, they do not need to be replaced. The Apex-I AFC (shown below) is used to de-tune the injectors so they will allow the car to run normally at idle and at low, partial throttle RPM. Check valves will be required to keep the MAP sensor for sensing boost, a Missing Link check valve is recommended but plastic aquarium check valves could be used. A common setup with this option is to use 320cc injectors which is good to about 12 PSI. Going much higher is very risky with an FMU setup.

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  28. #28
    VTEC Killa!! 99' LuDe's Avatar
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    if it were my car id have to say no. but i do know some guys that went with a ebay kit with great results. as long as you know what your doin and have a good tune you should be good for low boost, as long as you dont rag on it.

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    Thanks a lot for the help jdm crx man!!!

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    Ok so here is a setup I am thinking of going with. See what ya think about this...






  31. #31
    Repent or Perish jdm_crx_man's Avatar
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    thats nice are you gonna change the mani or just stick with that one?
    that turbo is sweet
    be carefull with those boost controllers mount them somewhere safe where they wont get shook around because its very sensitive my friend had one and he was pushing 14psi and he said he was working on his car and dropped a screw driver on it and when he drove the car it was at 21 psi!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Athens_Red_Rexin
    Thanks a lot for the help jdm crx man!!!
    no problem bro...reps to fellow crx owner
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